1863
January 221stnd [21st] Wednesday.
To-day we have had one of those spring days which, more
than ever wine or oil, make glad the heart of man. But
the bounding of the pulses, which such an atmosphere, such a
sky and such scenery cause in the young, is kept down in
us who are older by ever mutiplying memories of loss upon
loss, loss upon loss. Since the first day like this last spring the
brightest of the rising stars in my horizon has passed forever out
it until it shall broaden into eternity. There may I, and those
to whom its setting was like the going-down of the noonday-sun,
behold it again safe forever from every dimming sorrow from
every darkening eclipse. - This evening Mr Campazzi told
us a good deal of the history of Ausonio Franchi now professor
of the History of Philosophy or the Philosophy of History - I can't say
which it is, as he has at different times filled both chairs -
in the University of Pavia. Francesco Bonavino was the
name of this great thinker while he was still a priest -
a priest in good faith, an enthusiast as sincere as St. Francis
d'Assisi. Then came doubts which, says Campazzi, 'shook
him like a tempest'. His struggle was long and terrible, shattering
his health, but not impairing the force of his intellect. At last
he renounced every thing of his former self, even his very name, &
and [sic] adopted the Rationalism of the Germans - that school so pre-
eminently lacking in the most divine of human attributes - humility.
Would to God this great man, so pure in heat & life had fallen upon something
better. See Monnier's accounts of him, p. 362, L'Italie est-elle etc.
Thursday 22nd
I had an ahnung as the Germans say that Mrs Valerio
would be tempted to come down to us by the lovely bright weather, and I
was not mistaken. She came about one, and passed two or three hours with
us - looks very ill, but was lively and amusing. She spoke of her letters
from home as being still cheerful in their tone as to the prospects of
the Country. Heaven knows where they see anything bright. The glow
doesn't extend to this hemisphere at any rate. She rather interested
us by her account of Asproni - a well-known republican, and great
friend of Lorenzo Valerio. I enjoyed Mrs Valerio's visit as I
always do, for she is full of bright thoughts, but it is a sad pity
that her nerves are so shattered, and a greater one still that
she has received so mistaken an education.
Friday Jan. 23rd
These journey to Turin come so often. Mr Marsh
is again on his way there, not without much grumbling. It
breaks in sadly upon his work and he really might do all the
business of the Legation here, just as well as there, except when
it is necessary to see the Ministry. Since the whole work devolves
on him it does seem rather hard that he cannot be allowed to
do it in the way most convenient to himself. If our government
would make it a point to send men abroad who have consciences,
it would not be necessary to bind them by petty regulations.
Saturday 24th
Mr Marsh came home at nine this evening with
the usual budget of bad news from America, and none very
good from any quarter. We are not likely to get possession
of our Castle I fear before the first of April. The Count
promises it for the middle of March -, but as workmen are to
be sent there on the first of March, I know too well how much waiting
this implies. The resignation of Ricci is regretted, but
De Negro is to take his place. No more changes talked of
Just now. The Duchess left Genoa for Naples yesterday, the
new Prefetto, Marchese d'Afflitto going with her suite.
We had a pleasant visit from the Baron and Baroness
Gautier this afternoon. They are both much interested in American
politics.
Sunday 25th
The bad news from America or something else quite
knocked me up last night, and I was really so ill as to fear being
obliged to send for a physician - a hard alternative for me. This
morning I feel better, and I hope two or three days more will
release me from the imprisonment I have suffered for the last ten
days, not having been strong enough to go down to dinner during
that time. The weather is beyond all praise, and makes even
me so used to confinement as I am, long to get out.
This evening the Duchesse De La Force's maid brought a huge
bouquet of camelias, red, white, and variagated, just gathered from
her garden. It was indeed a feast to the eye.
Monday 26th
Carrie and I, after hurrying through lessons,
spent a good part of the day trying Ruskin's experiments with
water-colours, a labour just suited to my present capacity and my
position in bed. Such a sunset as I enjoyed while the
rest were at dinner more than compensated me for a solitary meal.
I certainly never have seen finer sunsets than one sees here.
Tuesday Jan. 27th
Carrie took a long walk with Mrs Tebbs
and the Signori, Ca as far as the asbestos mountain.
The Spring flowers are already out in the warm nooks of the
valleys - the primrose, the sweet-violet, &c. Mr Marsh did not
go out feeling quite feverish, partly no doubt from a long rapid
walk in the sun yesterday. He insisted however that he was
well enough to sit by my bedside and read to me for an
hour, which he did from that terrible book of Michelet -
La Sorcière. Such a story at that of the poor La Cadiere
makes one ask in wonder why God does not blast his Adam
with the lightnings of heaven rather than suffer the earth to be
polluted with such crimes.
Wednesday 28th
'Un giorno di Paradise' says Alexander and so it
is. I shall leave the Riviera with a great heartache
little as I have albe [able] to enjoy any thing except what I can
see from my windows. But who could ask for more - the great
and ever-changing sea, directly before us, the light-house of Genoa crowning
the first head-land on our left while something of the proud city herself may
be seen, promontory after promontory stretching out on our right until
we almost seem to see Nice itself - then behind us such hills & valleys
such gardens and orange-orchards as one sees in one's young dreams.
A letter from Mme De Bunsen this morning gives me an account
of Turin gayities gaieties - thank heaven, that in the present
condition of our poor country, I am out of the way of all
concern in them. Even if I had the strength for such a
life I could not have the heart for it now.
Thursday 29th Jan.
My imprisonment in my chamber lasts longer
than usual this time & I particularly regret it as we had
planned a drive towards [illegible]
Savona
to-day, and the most
brilliant & soft of spring-days is tempting us. But it is
out of the question I find on trying to dress so I must con-
tent myself with watching C. at her water-colors, only
giving now & then a glance at the bright, 'the innumerable
laughter' of the sea which threatens to blind us but which
we can't bear to shut
it
out. - To-day we received
some books from England - among them the Life of Bishop
Bowen. What a blessing it is to have known such a man!
Friday Jan. 30th
Little change within-doors or without - the most
perfect of days with not strength enough to go out to enjoy it. But
with Mr M's & C,s help I manage to occupy myself even on
my bed - for I am so far on the way out of it.
Sat - Jan. 31st
Made my way to the drawing-room to-day, and was
comfortable on the sofa all day. Was able, too, to look over a
to look ov little of Mr M - s mss.
Sunday. Feb. 1st
Mr Wheeler & Mrs Valerio drove out to us for a couple
of hours, Mr W. enjoyed his trip to Naples, as every man with
eyes & ears must, immensely. Mrs V. was as bright as ever
and more rational than often - likes "Down among the Pines"
extremely and is to bring it to me. - We read Franchi after
they left. He is lacking in good taste, does not understand the
Philosophy of Protestantism which he pretends to explain,
but he is clear & logical, if you admit his premises, in
the
narrow path into which he has as yet taken us.
Monday Feb. 2nd
The rain of sat. & yesterday made the roads too wet
for the pleasant drive to which better health & returned sun-
shine invite me. Occupation, however, is abundant within-doors.
Letters, lessons, mss. etc etc.
Tuesday Feb 3rd
Carrie and I took Mr Marsh to Genoa in a
carriage, on his way to Turin. The air was soft and delicious,
the sea and the hills most beautiful to behold. Sestri and Cornigliano
were full of industrious activity, and Genoa herself could hardly
have looked more busy in the proudest days of the Republic. Here
at least the Italians are not lazy. Having some spare time we
drove a little out of the city toward the Levante, returned and
took a look at the new monument to Colombus, which in some
respects is very fine, left Mr Marsh at the station, and returned
home in time for dinner - As we turned the lighthouse
point on our way back, I thought I had never seen anything
finer than the broad sweep of the bay before us, held in the
embrace of promontory after promontory, headland after headland,
and overlooked by hills so beautiful in form and vegetation.
The glimpses one gets into the valleys by looking up the
torrent beds, are enchanting.
Wednesday 4th
The weather was so showery this morning that
Mrs Valerio could not come to us as had been arranged,
so Carrie and I amused ourselves with hard work. In the
evening Signor Campazzi came to give her a lesson, but
somehow we fell into a discussion of Franchi's rationalism,
his explanation of Protestantism &c., and it was half past
nine before we thought of it. My Italian was by no means
equal to my subject, but I got on with it better than I could
have believed, and Signor Campazzi seemed to understand
my meaning. He spoke with great frankness of his own
religious difficulties, and I could not help profoundly regretting
that he could not read English, as I am sure I could
give him some English books that would give him a clearer
notion of the religious philosophy of Protestantism than he
now possesses. He clings to Crestianity [Christianity] still, though
harassed at times by doubts and difficulties. It is a pity that
the Italian Roman Catholic, when he first begins to think, has
Wednesday
The Baroness Gautiers came in towards evening -
to return George Sauer on La Traite, etc and to express
her regret at being out when Mr Marsh went to pay her a
visit on Monday. We discussed Turinese social matters a
little, especially the Benedetti difficulties of last winter. I
found she was well acquainted with the disagreeable meeting
of the hostile parties in my drawing room. She is disposed to
defend the stand taken by the Turinese ladies in general, but
condemns the Doria, not so much I fancy for her course
towards Mme Benedetti, as for her saying openly that if
other ladies had been neglected it might have been pardonable,
but she, she who had expended so much for Turinese
society, she who occupied such a position, was not to be
treated in that way! - . Mr Marsh and Alec. returned at
eleven this evening - the latter very much excited. A robbery was
committed in the compartment next to him, and the rascals
jumped from the carriage just before it arrived at Novi.
It seems that the compartment had only been occupied by
two persons - a lady and a merchant - until they reached
Alessandria, when four men entered. When the train was
well under way, they seized the merchant
who was badly wounded in the scuffle,
took what
money they could find, and jumped out, as I said before.
This seems rather serious to Alec. who generally is obliged to carry a
good deal of money, and who brought more than 2000 frs for us the last time.
nothing to read but the works of the rationalists.
Thursday 5th '63
Mrs Valerio spent the day with us - partly
in reading: 'Down among the Pines', to me - It is curious to
see how perfectly the South understood the New York states-
-man - I never had but one conversation with him, and up
to that period I had believed Mr Marsh, who constitutionally
forms rapid and decided judgments, to be somewhat unjustly
- prejudiced against him. After that conversation of fifteen
minutes I believe I never apologized again for the great
apostle of Anti-Slavery. Mrs Valerio's letters from New York
are depressing, Democracy is rampant, dissention is increasing,
pride of Country dying out, and a disposition everywhere
to have peace even on terms which must forever leave us
disgraced in the eyes of the civilized world. May Heaven
avert such a consummation! We were much interested
in R.H. Dana's account of the Hindostanee's bequest in
token of his sympathy in the Northern cause. The anecdote
of poor Captain Wainwright's noble boy is most touching,
but I should have expected as much from his father's son.
Friday 6th Feb.
Mr March took a long walk after writing some
twenty pages of manuscript for his new book. He stumbled
upon a copper foundary [foundry] far up the Varenna valley, and made
an engagement with the workmen to go on Monday with Mrs
Tebbs and the girls to see the casting. He was much interested
Wednesday. Mr Marsh brought from Turin the
report of the marriage of Rattazzi with the witch de
Solmes, confirmation of which appears in the journals.
To such a depth has the ex-minister fallen! I wish I
could get hold of a number of the Fischetto published on
the occasion. Even the king is said to lament the
infatuation of the Commendatore.
by the mode in which the beat out the thin copper vessels
so much in use here. He reports the hill-sides literally
carpeted with flowers. Carrie did not go with him being
deep in water-colours when invited. Mr Tebbs gave us this
evening an amusing anecdote of Lord Brougham., A friend
who had given him the lives of the Lord Chancellors, written
by a personal enemy of his lordship, (who of course knew that
the author was only waiting for him to die before adding
him to the list) and afterwards enquired how he liked the
book. "It adds another pang to death," said the witty
old Lord.
Saturday 7th
This morning we have home papers and letters
again, all blue enough. There is a letter of the President
addressed to Gen. McClellan while the latter was in the Peninsula
which I trust will somewhat damage this mock hero in
his prospects for the next Presidency - supposing the Republic
to survive long enough to witness another election.
A letter from this side the water has made us laugh in
spite of the grave character of those from the other side.
Some person or persons in Geneva are professing to be about
publishing a new and very choice biographical dictionary.
- They have been teasing Mr Marsh for the last year to give
them some facts and dates with regard to his own personal
history. At last to get rid of their importunities he wrote some
half-dozen lines, giving a few dates etc. etc. Now he has a letter
acknowledging the reception, and intimaitimating [intimating] that
they shall fill up the skeleton in terms more or less
comonendatory [commendatory] according to the sum of money he may be
pleased to send them. For a hundred and fifty francs
they will make it respectable, - for five hundred, it shall
be very handsome, and occupy so much space - for a
thousand they will pile on the superlatives, and give
him several pages!! I pretended to take the matter seriously
and asked him what he should do? He looked at me with
such an expression of reproachful astonishment that I could
hardly keep my countenance till he had said - "If I cant
go down to posterity without paying for it, I'll stay here."
After this I did not feel bound to preserve my gravity. Our
friends, the Tebbses were not a little amused when
we told them this evening the story of the 'Immortality
Office."
Sunday Feb 8th
We divided the day between Dr. Stanley's
History of the Jewish Church, and Ausonio Franchi's Religion
of the nineteenth century. The latter is most successful
as a sharp-shooter at the Romish Church, but he has by no
means the breadth or the learning of the Englishman. Dr S__'s
sketch of Abraham is very fine, that of Jacob inferior to Rob-
-ertson on the same subject. He expresses what would once
have been called most unorthodox opinions with regard
to the inspiration of the Old Testament, but while
he does so in the plainest terms, he still preserves very carefully
such phrases as the 'sacred record,' 'sacred narrative,' etc.
This serves to relieve the shock that some persons might
otherwise feel, on reading his book, and we are amused
to find our most excellent friend, Mr Tebbs, quite satisfied
with Dr. Stanley, while he condemns Bishop Colenso
for 'digging under the ancient foundations' as he calls it.
In the evening Signor Cocchetti came in with
the Tebbses, but we did not renew the discussion
which I should have mentioned having taken place
last evening, which both Campazzi and Cocchetti passed
with us. I tried to connect some of Signor Cocchetti's
false impressions,
with regard to Protestantism
but I found it next to impossible.
His idea of our religion is a very ugly one, though, if he
but knew it, he thinks almost precisely with us. Tran-
-substantiation he holds to be a fiction well enough suited
to the gross conceptions of an ignorant peasantry, the ce-
-libacy of the priesthood he condemns utterly, indulgences
no less, and the temporal power of the pope he declares
to be demoralizing and pernicious. With all this, he
loves his Church, but says he does not believe according
to its teachings with regard to all outside its pale - Prot-
-estant or Pagan - namely, that there is no possible
salvation for them. I asked him if this was generally
believed by Roman Catholics. "Oh, yes", he said, "most of
those who believe anything, believe that," and he
told Mrs Tebbs that even our charming acquaintance
the Baroness Gautiers, with all her intelligence and
culture, and with all her sweet gentleness of manner
towards us, sighed to think that we were all inev-
-itably doomed to a most uncomfortably climate
in the next world.
Monday 9th
Mr Marsh took a large party up the
Varenna to the copper foundery [foundry] this afternoon. I was looking
for a good many hours for myself, but Mrs Valerio and
Mrs Sada broke in unexpectedly upon my solitude., In-
-stead of the meditation hours which I was anticipating
I had an hour or two of practice in speaking Italian of which
I was very glad. La Signora Sada seems very amiable
and, what is remarkable here, is not ashamed to own that
she is fond of her husband, and unhappy when his business
takes him from her, but was surprised to learn that we
had no nobility in the United States, and couldn't imma
imagine how we could get on without it. This piece of
information was given her accidentally through Mrs Valerio's
mist mistaking nubile for nobile. The walkers
came back very tired and Miss Tebbs and Carrie brought
the little Strettells to stay all night
as
the poor children were
so tired fatigued
Tuesday 10th February,
Giacchino and Alec. took Carrie into Genoa
for photograph, shopping etc., and we old crones stayed
at home book-making. We had an hours visit from Mrs
Strettell who is always wide awake, and she took the
children home.
Wednesday 11th
We drove this afternoon to Arranzano [Arenzano], some
eight miles on the Nice road, The day was very bright, and
the view charming, but there was a chill in the North wind
which made me tremble for the almond trees now in full flower.
The railroad-work has recommenced beyond Voltri, and between
that town and Arranzano much progress has been made. It
seemed to us as if putting the short tunnels together, nearly
half the track must be underground, and I could not
help thinking how strangely it must strike the first travellers
over it when the whole track should be completed.
One must feel as if vibrating like a pendulum between
the realms of Pluto and the Fields of Paradise, - one
moment in the blackness of darkness - then in the rich
gardens of the Riviera with the blue Mediterrenean on
one hand, and the pure sky of Italy over one's head,
but before the eye can recover from its first dazzle, all
will be darkness again, and so on hour after hour Fan-
-tasic as must be the effect of such railway travelling, we
could not help bitterly lamenting the semi-destruction of
this most beautiful of carriage roads, which is already
much damaged by the rail-roadway operations, frequently crossed
by its track, so much of which lies parallel to it that
when once the steam-carriages are running it will be
unsafe to drive with horses not accustomed to
the sight and
the noise
of the locomotive.
Thursday 12th February.
Mrs Wheeler came to spend a few hours
with us, bringing her two oldest boys. She comes out won-
-derfully on acquaintance, and with a little time and oppor-
-tunity for improvement she will soon show that she has
capacity for it. She has an abundance of good sense, and
a degree of personal beauty that would be remarkable if
she had the manner and the money to set it off. I
took her to the upper terrace of the house where I have never
been before myself. The cold wind of yesterday had died
away and the air was as soft as on a June day in
New England. As I looked east-ward toward the light-
-house point which partially hides Genoa, then at the
grand headland beyond the city, then at the sweep of
the hills forming a semi-circle from east by north to west,
I felt such a longing to take my pencil in my hand once
more, that the tears came to my eyes quite unawares.,
Friday 13th
This morning occurred another curious
instance of the peculiar way in which business transactions
are carried on in Italy. Among the many houses we had
been negotiating for this winter is that belonging to the d'
Azeglio family. We sent Alec. to enquire the terms. He
assured us that it would not be rented for less than
fifteen thousand francs annually, and not for a shorter
period than two years, that the Marchese, and the agent were
both very decided that these were their last terms. I persuaded
Mr Marsh however to request Mr Artoni to offer 12.000 frs.,
thinking that if this was accepted as there were rooms enough
for the Legation, and for Mr Clay and Mr Artoni, it
would be better than anything we were likely to do. Mr Artoni
brought the same answer as Alec. had done, and of course
we gave the thing up. Now, two months later, we receive
a letter saying that we can have the house if we wish
it - and this just after we have taken, and paid the
rent of a house in the country at an inconvenient
distance, and with the probability of being obliged to
leave it at the end of six months, or a year at best. A
similiar affair happened the other day. Count Villa marina,
who had written a note with his own hand to say that
the price of the apartment would be 18,000 frs. sent us
word that we might have it for twelve. These things are
excessively trying to the patience of Englishmen or Americans.
Mrs Valerio drove down from Genoa and passed most of the day
with us. She brought a photograph of poor Maj. Sedgwick
a fine brave-looking fellow. Mrs V. with much that is attractive,
makes me constantly feel what a pity it is for such fine
powers should be useless for want of thorough education in
some directions, and perverted by a false one in others.
Her cousin, Miss Jane Sedgwick, a pervert now in Rome, has
evidently
obtained
great influence over her by assuming to possess,
(and no doubt really supposing she does possess) reads a vast
deal of ecclesiastical learning. O for some educator to arise
who should be able to make his pupils understand
something of the nature of true learning - who could point
out to them some of the innumerable storehouses of knowledge,
on every conceivable subject, into to which they can never
hope to penetrate. The greatest need we have now in
the way of teachers seems to me to be a class whose
business shall be to teach people how ignorant they are
and ever must be on almost every subject to which they
cannot devote their lives. We should then have less of
that flippant impertinence which assures you. "__ knows
every thing that is to be said on both sides, she has
thoroughly examined the subject etc." In one instance
of this kind I longed to say to Mrs V. 'my dear friend,
neither of us three - your cousin, you or I - is any more
capable of deciding questions of ecclesiastical history or doctrinal
criticism than we are of demonstrating the truth of the Newtonian
Theory, or of showing up its falseness. Nor can we ever
hope to be in this life even if we were to devote what remains
of it
to
this subject alone. We have not had - and no woman in
our country has had - the necessary previous training. The
required knowledge is not within our reach - we lack the
discipline to make use of it, if it were." Then I recollected
that such an assertion would carry no conviction with
it and I was silent.
Sat. Feb. 14th
It was necessary for Mr M. to go to Turin to-day, &
and [sic], as is usual on such days, much of it was lost.
Sunday. Feb. 15
Carrie could not read aloud on account of a severe
cold, and I was obliged to make a meditation-day
of it. The Baroness Gautier dined with us and we passed
the evening pleasantly in the common salon.
Monday 16th
Mr Marsh returned at three, well but not in very
good spirits. The news from America seems to him very discouraging although
I cannot quite see it so myself. The Democrats have certainly not grown strong
since the last news, and I dread them far more than the open rebels. He reports
the Carnival as very brilliant. Among the many magnificent cars was an Africa
triumphant - a large platform, borne by six horses, on which were growing
palm trees, banannas, etc. On it, too, were standing some of the first no-
-bility of Turin disguised as Africans, wearing liberty-caps etc. This was
no doubt in compliment to President Lincoln's proclamation. One of the
masks was in the dress of a Southern slave wearing a broad coarse Palmetto
There were many other cars of a very expensive and showy character. The wine-
-dealers had one in the form of a huge champaign basket into which were
loaded wine casks of every shape gaily painted and gilded. On these were
seated some dozen persons each wearing on his head what seemed to be a large
champaign bottle gaudily labelled. The photographers had also their car
which was in excellent taste and must have been very expensive. There was
an infinite amount of gaity and no less good-humour. It is wonderful
how these Italians manage to get on without the least quarreling under
circumstances where an English or American crowd would be in a row
at once.
Tuesday Feb. 17th
Carrie went to Genoa to see the Carnival with Mrs Valerio.
Here it was a very sorry affair. She returned at eight and reported the
Genoa carnival, too, a failure. The Prefet had forbidden the throwing
of Confetti, but also interfered with a demonstration in favour of the Polish
revolution, and so the people pouted.
Wednesday 18th
The usual work and the usual walk filled up the day
without any occurrence of particular interest.
Thursday 19th
We have now further details of the news from American of the
5th, and are glad to find it does not look so bad. The affair of Charleston
is of no great importance - far more than outweighed by other small successes, and
the election of Gov. Morgan to the Senate is a most important triumph over
the Democracy. On the whole things look a little more hopeful.
Friday February 20th.
C. & I occupied ourselves desperately all day try
ing
to outdo
Mrs Tebbs in painting an orange truly in water-colors. I ground
the paints and advised while C. operated. Our success was
not discouraging.
Sat. Feb. 21st
Alas for mortal ambitions! Our triumph in the affair
of the orange has cost C. an attack of inflamation of the eyes
and we are both of us compelled to utter idelness to-day - I in bed
she by the side of it.
Sunday Feb. 22nd
All day we read - that is Mr Mr. read to us - Stanley's
History of the Jewish Church - most interesting, but not so very
orthodox and
nor
so very Churchman-like. Towards evening
Baron Gautier came in, and later the mysterious Gen.
Haug, with a friend from Sweden. All three of our
visitors think trouble in Naples imminent. Some
persons predict that V.E. Rex. will abdicate soon
in d order to pursue his own tastes with less
restraint. Prince Umberto is very popular, but very
young and in danger of falling into bad hands. Poor
Italy seems doomed to a new relapse and a new convulsion.
Monday 23rd.
The breakdown in the family has become so complete
and so general that Mr Marsh alone pretends to do anything today,
and even he is a little threatened with erysipelas. Our good
friend Mr Tebbs however has thriven so well under our prescription
of Dover's powder that he is once more able to go down to dinner.
After suffering several days from severe cough, great difficulty of breathing
and sleeplessness, (during all which time he stoutly resisted everything in
the form of opium, from principle,) I at last luckily suggested a
Dover's powder as 'a simple old English medicine composed
chiefly of ipecac'. Both he and Mrs Tebbs remembered that it was
much used in England, and quite innocent. We sent it in, and the
good man slept quietly and found himself much refreshed in
the morning by the rest. Towards evening he complained of some
langour, and of still more the night following, but Mr Marsh sent
him a little Bourbon Whisky, which set him quite right again.
We had a quiet laugh between ourselves over the pious fraud
we had practiced, and have now the satisfaction of seeing our
poor friend quite comfortable, whereas three days ago he really seemed
as if he might sink away at any moment.
Tuesday 24th
The London Times, the Record etc., are much
taken up, next to the Polish rebellion, with the prosecution
of Rev. Mr Jowitt [Jowett]. Dr Pusey writes, Maurice replies, Dr
Pusey writes again, a Protestant reponds vehemently, M__. from
Baliol [Balliol] speaks even more warmly - in fact the controversy waxes
hot. The Record attacks Dr Stanley with some effect, but with
more want of fairness - on the whole a storm seems brewing likely
to shake the Church of England to its very foundations.
Wednesday - 25th
England shows her characteristic selfishness, and
at the same time a certain generous natural impulse, in the
course she is taking in the affair of Poland. She blames Russia,
scolds Prussia soundly, and thinks France would do well
to make a war in this great course of humanity. Of course she
couldn't do anything herself that would endanger her national
peace, or, to interpret her fairly, her pecuniary prosperity, but
why shouldn't France? Isn't it a noble cause? The
Italian papers comment playfully but shrewdly upon this
barefaced egotism of English statesmen, -
who
They threaten Prussia
with Napoleon and Garibaldi, but intimate clearly that
they intend to keep out of the mess. Count Stackelberg
payid Mr Marsh a visit this morning. He is trying to engage
a Villa in Pegli for the summer. This is the second time Mr Marsh
has seen the Russian Minister, and on the whole he likes him.
The poor man lost his wife some he years ago in Turin when he
was Minister there for the first time. We have often heard
her spoken of there as being one of the most beautiful women ever
seen at that capital, and a fine character. The Count was so
crushed by her death that he resigned and left Turin at once;
he returns after several years, but his former acquaintances say
only a wreck of himself, and each time that he has seen Mr Marsh
he has spoken of the overwhelming calamity that befel him while
in Italy before, and of the indifference with which he now regards
life, except for the sake of his children. We Anglo-Saxons must
admit that even Russians are sometimes capable of strong
domestic attachments.
Feb. Thursday 26th
Rather better news from America this week, and
Mr Marsh would have left for Turin in better spirits than usual
had he not been somewhat indisposed. I hope the journey may
do him good, though he finds these frequent rail-road trips very
disagreeable.
Friday 27th
This morning an American boy an-
-nounced himself as wishing to see Mr Marsh. I sent for
him, and a young slender-looking lad apparently in bad health
came in. He told me that he had been travelling with Mr Hunt,
as his valet, that he had met with a severe accident in Naples -
broken his back, as he expressed it - and that after being confined
more than three months in the hospital he was now trying to
get hime. His pale face, hollow eyes, and evident weakness con-
-firmed the story of his illness. I asked how the accident hap-
-pened. "I was larking ma'am," was his tremulous answer.
'Larking'?, I said, 'what's that?' 'Me and an English va-
-let, ma'am, we were larking, and I fell in trying to jump
some high bars." The tears were trembling in the eye of the poor
boy as he said this, or I should certainly have laughed. He
went on to tell me that Mr Hunt was obliged to leave him at Naples,
but that he treated him most kindly, took him to the Protestant
hospital, made arrangements for paying all his expenses while there,
and gave him a hundred and fifty francs besides. He spoke gratefully
too, of Mrs Wilson, the English matron of the hospital. With the
money given him by Mr Hunt he had come as far as Turin.
Here Mr Clay gave him five francs to take him to Genoa, and
from Mr Marsh to hoped to get enought to take him to Nice, where
he would find a friend and relative in Mr Slade, the consul.
Through his aid he expected to get to Paris, and there he was
sure Dr McClintock, who had already befriended him when
there before, would be able to give him advice and aid. I do
not know how much of imposture there may be in this story,
but it was told with such a simple unconscious pathos that
I have seldom been more moved. Then too he was so frank in
stating the amount with which he could manage to reach Nice. 'But,'
I said, 'will eight francs give you a bed on the steamer?' 'Oh no,"
he answered, "but I could get on with a deck passage." His lips
quivered while he was speaking, and he seemed very grateful when
I told him that I should give him enough to have a comfortable
bed which he certainly needed. He stated his age at nineteen - much
older than he really looked - and gave his name as Henry Green, his
father and family now living in Bath, Maine.
Saturday 28th
I was prevented from going to Genoa to meet Mr
Marsh by the combined opposition of a high wind and a headache.
He came at four, and brought news of the dangerous illness of Mr
Sartiges. The Ministry seem to get on without serious difficulty,
the sinistra being by no means numerous or powerful.
There is a wide-spread dissatisfaction, however, throughout most
parts of Italy with the government generally. The House of
Savoy, at least so far as the present King is concerned, has
lost much of its hold on the affections of the new kingdom,
and the Republican element is said to be gathering strength. With
the undisguised hostility of all the governments of Europe, and
Gret Britain besides, against republics, there is little hope
that any good will grow out of this fresh impulse in the Republican
direction. Victor Emmanuel is certainly not all that one
could desire in a King, but he honestly adheres to the Consti-
-tution in spite of bad advice, he is brave, and generous, and
it will be an evil day that sees his people rise against him.
There seems to be but [illegible]
two choices
for Italy now - to submit with as
much dignity as possible to the course France has taken, or to
defy her. With the first the people are not satisfied, and as to
the second they admit it would be madness. In the meantime they
grumble because their rulers do not find out some impossible
third course by means of which they shall get Rome, retain the
friendship of France, force Austria to give up Venetia, and
quiet disaffection everywhere. - I must note here a new proof of
the depravity of human nature in addition to the many already
adduced from the time of the Fathers down. No sooner had I
bestowed my twenty francs upon the pale, hollow-eyed trembling
invalid who had broken his back while larking with his
English friend, than instead of embarking for Nice as he pretended
was his intention, he went straight back to Turin, and arrived in
time to catch Mr Marsh while still there. He was equally suc-
-cessful in his imposition upon him, though the liveliness of his
imagination led him to invent a different story for the occasion.
When we compared notes we had a hearty laugh at our own expense
- and yet after all, it is always painful to find ones' self decieved
in this way by one so young, and it is sometimes a temptation to
refuse to give in cases where there is a real need of charity.
Sunday 29th March 1st
We read Stanley all day, Carrie having gone to church
with the Tebbses. The controversy between Jowitt, Pusey etc grows
hot. The best letter I have seen is one from Dr. Close, witty and
good-tempered. The Athenæum contains some startling revelations
with regard to Dr Pusey and his twenty eight Protestant nunneries
especially that of Miss Sellon.
Monday 30th March 2nd
The Baron and Baroness Gautiers, the
Strettells
the Tebbses,
and we, together with the young people made
an excursion up the valley of the Acqua Santa, - a drive
of an hour and a half from our Stabilimento. It is a lovely
valley even at this season, but in summer when its magnificent
chestnut orchards are in leaf it must be most exquisite. We
enjoyed our holiday extremely, especially those of the party who
were able to walk. Several of them came home over the hills
quite to Pegli and were not over-tired either. The Strettells
staid all night, and we had some amusing games, though the
absence of the Signori Cocchetti and Campazzi reduced our numbers
too much for a great success in this way.
Tuesday 3rd
Mrs Valerio came at one, and Mr Marsh and I took
her to drive a little beyond Voltri. The day was even more
perfect than yesterday, and I never saw any part of the Riviera
look more enchanting. We longed to go on to Arranzano, but
Mrs V__. was obliged to return for the train at four. She says
her friends write a little more hopefully from New York, but we can-
-not see much here to encourage us as to the fate of our Country.
I was glad to get an opportunity of bringing Mrs Valerio and the
Strettells together; it may do something to save her from the
influence of that half-educated cousin of hers at Rome. Mr S__.
is a man for whom one's respect is increased by every interview. He
is a much more liberal man than I supposed him at first. He
speaks of Dr. Maurice as one of his most intimate friends. His
affection for his little Alma is very touching, and when I see
father and child together there rises a half involuntary aspiration
that they may never be separated as so many parents and children
have been.
Wednesday 4th
This morning we have a scirocco, and it looks a
little as if the spring rains were about to set in. Mr Marsh and Carrie
were driven back from an intended visit to the Baroness by a
fast sprinkle, which a severe sore throat made it necessary for
Mr Marsh to escape from. This was the only interruption of our
book and manuscript work. There has been an arrival
at the Stabilimento today
of two families.
Thursday 5th
The rain has fairly set in, and we have had no temptation
to play out doors today. At the dinner-table we found our little
company of five or six, swelled to sixteen - generally nice-looking people.
Our quiet life here is evidently over, but I regret d the change the less
as we are so soon to leave ourselves. The damp weather has given
Mr Marsh so severe a sore throat that, external remedies having failed,
I put him in bed early this evening, with a Dover's powder.
We are now twenty days without news from America except a stupid
paragraph from the World. It was a bitter disappointment to get
nothing this evening. The Polish Revolution, if one can judge any
thing from the journals, is rather gaining strength than otherwise. The
French and English, particularly the latter, continue to bluster at Russia
and Prussia, but if they can once accomplish their own selfish ends they will
let the Poles get out of the difficulty as they can. The French Empress,
having succeeded in inducing the Emperor to throw away the noblest oppor-
-tunity a sovereign ever had to give the whole world a great onward
and upward movement, is trying to coax him to allow her to go to Rome
for the Pope's blessing, and to secure the Order of the Rose,
with
which
His Holiness sometimes honours such of his faithful daughters as wear
crowns. It is said that the Emperor refuses to permit the Prince Imperial
to accompany her on this pilgrimage, and that she will not go without
him. She will [illegible] probably get her will in time, as she has so often
done before in more important matters. There is a rumour today
that the Greeks are making one more effort to get a King, that
they are getting up signatures in favour of Prince Carignano. I hope
they may be fortunate enough to get him. Every body speaks well
of him, and he looks and conducts like a man of dignity, good
sense and good principle. Kossuth is out with a new
manifesto on the political condition of Europe, but his dreams
have little or no influence over anyone.
Friday March 6th
Mr M. was not well enough to work to-day and we
dawdled away the morning as the English say. I left him
to dine on a plate of soup by himself and joined the increased
company at the table d'hôte. An English colonel with a Danish
wife & motherinlaw interested me very much. The lady
wife
herself is most pleasing, the mother very much of a lady, but
the gentleman of has an air of refinement, good taste, and
thorough consideration for others that one rarely finds in any
man, and most rarely in an Englishman. The picture this party
gave us of Nice this season was any thing but attractive. In
addition to the deaths from burning, - caused by this detestable
crinoline - of which we had already heard, they mentioned
that of
an American lady whose dress caught from her grate at
mid-day while she was looking in a glass opposite.
She rushed out of her room into an adjoining one, set fire
to another lady who was in her night-dress, and before her
husband who ran after her could extinguish the flames
she was past saving. The lady in the night-dress was not
seriously injured, but the husband of the victim, being previously
in bad health, died soon after from the shock and the grief suffered.
Saturday March 7th.
Nothing noteworthy today. The bad weather kept us all
in-doors, and Mr Marsh's sore throat and inflamed eyes prevented him from
work, and his lounging kept the rest of us idle, or nearly so. In the
evening the Tebbses, Campazzi and Cocchetti passed an hour or two
with us. Cocchetti explained to Mr Marsh how the great estates
of Italy were kept together without the aid of the law of primo-
-geniture. The explanation is quite enough, with the celibacy of the
priest-hood, to account for the vast and deep demoralization that pre-
-vails in the social life of this beautiful country.
Sunday March 8th
We kept Carrie from Church this morning to read Dr Stanley
to us which she did as long as her throat held out. While she was resting
the Israelitsh deputy Levi came in to pay us a visit bringing
with him his friend Filippi, also a friend of our friend Botta.
Levi speaks much more hopefully of the prospects of Italy generally
and especially of the Southern Provinces than do most of the very
liberal Italians whom we meet. He says the aspect of things there
is greatly improving, and though the Italian affairs in general are not
going on in the right direction so fast as could be wished, yet
they are making a steady progress, and that this generation
must be content to pass away and leave the best fruits of their toil
to those who shall come after them. Mr Strettell came down in
the evening and we had service and sermon in the little saloon. Mr
Strettell shows the same energy in performing those duties as a clergyman
that he does in his walks and other physical exertions. With a felon
on his finger, which had kept him awake all the previous night, and
a bad sorethroat, having already held two services, he came down here for
a third, and would have walked back to Genoa after nine o'clock,
a distance of seven miles, if we had not entreated him most
pressingly to stay here all night.
Monday 9th March.
We had the pleasure this morning of opening a box of books
from America. Mr Strettell came up from breakfast while we were
in the midst of our pleasant task, and was much interested to see
the American edition of Wedgewood [Wedgwood] who is an intimate friend of his.
Many an old familiar face appeared among the volumes as we took them out,
and some very promising new ones. A pile of back numbers of the Atlantic
furnished us a rich feast and a merry laugh through some half
dozen of the Biglow Papers not seen before. We shall send them
to Mr Strettell who enjoys Lowell as thoroughly as the best Yankee.
Tuesday 10th
The strong south-wind still continues, but it has swept
every cloud from the heavens, and the day has been most charming. We
have never seen the waves higher, and the effect of the sun on the water,
changing constantly with its altitude, is marvellous. Sometimes it
looks like an immense opal with the power of motion and the gift
of utterance. A broad steel-blue band is its setting, and above it is
a baldichino of amethyst and saphire. I have looked out on this sea
till I am almost blinded, calling out to Mr Marsh from time to time,
Oh come and see this huge wave, green as an emerald, as it comes rolling
in - oh, now it is breaking, - curling into white foam - oh, now it is leaping
up the rocks! - oh see another bound back from the Castle wall, the
fine spray rising like a mist far above what once were its turrets!'
With open windows the roar is too loud to admit of talking to
each other with ease. I am afraid I shall be homesick at Piobesi
missing so much this ever-companionable sea. To me there is
nothing in nature so living and so social as the ocean - next to it
I think I love the clouds - and this compels me to give only a third
place to the mountains - the mountains which my husband prefers to
everything else in the natural universe except the sun and stars of heaven.
Carrie came home just in time for dinner after a long walk with
the Baroness and Miss Tebbs. The young ladies came back loaded
with flowers and well-fruited orange-boughs - On a single small
branch were five oranges, in themselves weighing as much as one person
would would [sic] care to take on a walk for pleasure. They enjoyed
the Doria gardens to the full. - We all united in drinking the
health of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The Halketts showed
us a photograph of the two in which the Princess certainly appears to
much the best advantage.
- In
the evening Mrs Kerr
or Kärr,
the mother
of Mrs Halkett, brought in the children to us, and spent some little
time. We were glad to find that she knew many of our friends, among
them the De Billes - the Garrigues - Mrs Christern, etc
The latter had for some little time the charge of Mrs Halkett (they
call her, the Baroness,) then Maggie Kerr. Mrs K__ speaks
in the highest terms of the Garrigues. She also knows
the Hochschilds well, and told us what we did not know before,
that the Baron himself is a cousin of the Oxholms of Denmark.
Speaking of the Princess Alexandra, (of whom she Mrs K_ says her
daughter was an older playmate - ) and praising the careful
manner in which she had been brought up, our new Danish friend
told us that 'she had never seen a newspaper in her life'!
Alas, for princes and princesses! Until I came to Italy this tine [time] I
had no conception of the infinite pains taken to prevent all royal
children and youth from knowing anything of life as it really is.
Treated like lap-dogs and fed on sugar only, how can one expect
them to have any more intellect than these little canine specimens!
Gianina Milli, the Sicilian, is having a splendid success at
Turin as an improvisatrice. I have regretted none of their balls or
theatricals this winter, public or private, but this is an entertainment
which we miss with real pain. The mention of this Sicilian lady
reminds me of a matinade given us this morning by three of four
wild-looking Calabrese, with their steeple-crown-hats, and hair black
as night. One had a bag-pipe from which he drew forth the well-known
hurdy-gurdy squeaks, while the other three danced gaily, and did more
than justice to the music. Around the hat of one of the dancers was
a string of bells which had much the effect of the castanets, and
when I opened the window they all uncovered their heads, and made a
bow with a grace that would have done honour to any rank. Their whole
dress was very picturesque, especially the sandals, and the white leggings
which were made gay by the straps of the former which were crossed
and recrossed of from the ankle to the knee - As they turned to go
they touched their hats to me again, I suppose in token of acknowledgement
for the little coin they had recieved.
Wednesday 11th
After the finest day possible yesterday a strong south-wind
rose about midnight bringing with it abundance of rain, Before twelve
this morning the wind came round to the North, and to our dismay all
the upper ranges of the mountains near us were soon white with snow.
It made us tremble to think that Piedmont would probably be
again buried in snow, and so the chance of our getting comfortably
settled in our new kingdom the Castle, by the first of April greatly dimin
ished. Col. and Mrs Halkett came in to our room for a half hour
and we do not find them less agreeable as our acquaintance advances.
Good Mr & Mrs Tebbs spent the evening with us. We shall miss
them much and regretfully after we have left Pegli - which seems
near at hand now - the packing having already commenced. Poor
Signor Campazzi has been ill the whole week and was not able to
give us a lesson tonight. We all feel very sorry for him. His father
was so displeased with him when he turned Protestant that he dis-
-inherited him. The old man however repented of this severity on his
death-bed, when it was too late to mend the matter, the property
having passed into other hands, and implored his son's forgiveness for
the wrong he had done him. Now the ex-priest finds himself alone
and penniless, but I do not think he regrets having followed the dic-
-tates of his conscience.
Thursday 12th Mr A
Mr Marsh left at 1 P.M. for Turin, - better but
not as well as usual. I am afraid he will be made worse by the
cold weather he is likely to meet in Piedmont. Here the day is as
Wednesday 11th - fine as possible. The sea is still noisy enough,
but last night its roar was almost terrible even to me who love
its grand and solemn voice so passionately. Carrie and I filled
up the day after Mr Marsh left with letter-writing and with Manzoni.
At dinner Col. Halkett quoted, with a mixture of
mingled
censure and
contempt, the recent letter of the Bishop of Oxford in which "he
tries to do away the scruples of some of the very weak clerical brethren
about rejoicing at the wedding of the Prince and Princess of Wales,
because it is celebrated in Lent. The good Bishop tells his
feeble-minded children that he feels badly about it himself, but that
he is quite sure the Arch-bishop had the power to release the
clergy from their obligations to keep Lent, and he was almost equally
sure that in a late letter of the Archbishop had by implication
claimed that power and exercised it. In fact he thought a fair
construction of this letter justified the clergy in making merry on
this occasion!" As I have not seen the letter I am not responsible
for the quotation, but even good Mr Tebbs, who wears the largest
mantle of charity I have ever seen, did not attempt to stretch it
over this epistle, even though written by a Bishop. He uttered
a semi groan and changed the subject.
Friday 13th
We woke this morning, and instead of the bright sky of yesterday,
found the rain falling in torrents, and the temperature not very warm
at that. Carrie declares that the March of this year has chills
and fever - not an unnatural suggestion for an Indiana girl.
At dinner the chief topic of conversation was the Royal wedding
in which a double interest is felt by the Halketts from their
Danish as well as English blood. Mrs Tebbs thought is was such
a nice idea that a map of Denmark should have been
printed in the Illustrated News. I looked at the English-Danish
party and they smiled. We understood each other's meaning, but
our more guileless friends did not - but persisted in saying
"Don't you think so?" "I confess," said Col. Halkett, "it
strikes me as rather a doubtful compliment." "Oh," I
said, "England has no doubt heard of Denmark before, but
she probably needed a map of the country - and indeed
other nations sometimes fancy that a little more knowl-
edge of geography would be an accomplishment not
unworthy of one so widely known herself." Before I had
finished my sentence I was dismayed to find how much I
was feeling, and was thankful that the good natured laughter
of my auditors helped
me
to an excuse for the flushed cheek &
tremulous voice with which I concluded it. After we
came up stairs Carrie told me an anecdote of the day which had
I heard before I should not have ventured my remark at the
table, though I should have thought it all the harder. Miss
Tebbs enquired of Carrie, who was saying something to her about
New England, "in what part of America New England was and
why it was called so." Before she could answer a young Italian
present volunteered to give the information which he did very
correctly. - I am afraid I have forfeited something of the good opinion
of Saint Tebbs by my sharpness at dinner. He bore the joke
about England heroically, but when I said - on being told
that some boys
in Genoa
had thrown a stone at the Baroness Gautiers
laming her considerably - that 'a boy was the only animal that
I would not admit was as my fellow-creature' he looked absolute
-ly shocked, and both he and Mrs Tebbs began to defend that
genus with a zeal worthy a better cause. The good man ad-
-mitted that they were naturally rather cruel, "but", he said, "if you
could only see how I have touched their hearts in the Sunday school
telling them how wicked it was to rob birds' nests and tease
animals and ....." "Yes, yes," I interrupted, "and if you could
only see how as soon as they were out of your sight they chased
the next cow they met to tie a tin kettle to its tail...."
Here the old gentleman sighed so profoundly that I thought it would
show a nature as cruel as that of the boy himself if I were to
proceed, so I broke off abruptly, and added consolingly - "but
I must admit there are good boys." With this peace offering
we separated, but I am sure my reputation for charity has suf-
-fered. Saturday 14th
Mr Marsh came back from Turin at half past three,
reporting, as I expected, a snow-storm the day before, on that side the
Apennines. It was not very cold however, and he thinks we must
manage to get to Turin Saturday the 21st. The Baroness spent the
evening with us. One little anecdote she told of herself showed that
Italian women are much the other women, or rather Italian wives like
other wives. She described a visit she made two days ago in Genoa where
she was obliged to mount to the very top of the palace - four long flights
of stairs, "It was very hard for me to get up", she said, "but I almost
forgot my own weakness in thinking how dreadfully my husband would
suffer going down - he has an affection of the leg that makes it very
painful for him to descend a stair-case. - At last when the visit was
over, I contrived to save his amour-propre and his poor foot at
the same time, by telling my friends who were with me that they
must remember I was an invalid, and I begged they would go
very very slowly." She added that she really didn't mind going down
stairs in the least, but that gentlemen were so sensitive about any
physical disability. She surprised me also by telling me that the
Marchese Rorà, whom I admired so much last winter, and who is a
particular friend of hers, is a sister of the famous Princess Belgiuoso [Belgiojoso]
whom we knew so well in Constantinople.
Sunday 15th March.
Poor Mr Tebbs has been suffering so much all night
that unless he very much improves today we shall give up our plan
of going to Genoa tomorrow. Notwithstanding his illness we received
from him and dear Mrs Tebbs, each of us a charming little present
this morning - Carrie a box of the finest water-colours, I a beautiful
little volume of selections by Dr Vaughn - Rays etc. - and last
and best of all, an exquisite copy of Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress
for Mr Marsh.
Monday 16th
It began raining this morning just at breakfast-
-time and continued till the messenger came from Genoa to inquire
if we wished for rooms there. We had scarcely sent him off with a
negative when the sun came out. Also a message from Mr Tebbs
that he was much better, helped us to regret our decision, but it was
too late to reconsider.
Tuesday 17th March
Mr Marsh woke with a swelled face this morning
and a certain colour about the nose which reminded me of his
former attacks of erysipelas. This, with the necessity of being in
bed myself, quite reconciles us to the decision of yesterday.
Carrie read Tasso to me most of the day and then took a long
walk with the Baroness and some other friends. Husband tried
to work a little, but was restless and feverish all day.
Wednesday 18th
Carrie walked some hours with the Baroness, I being ill
in bed, and Mr Marsh ill out of bed.
Thursday 19th
This morning I managed to get on to the sofa in
the drawing-room, and was just contemplating Mr. Marsh's swelled
nose by a strong sunlight when Mrs Valerio came in - She joined
in the laugh which I was enjoying more, no doubt, than the unhappy patient.
There seems no chance of his getting to Genoa before Saturday, when we
shall probably all go together. Mrs Valerio was more sane than usual
and altogether more agreeable. Just as she was leaving the Baron and
Baroness Gautiers came in. The sight of them recalled a conversation
between them reported by Carrie yesterday. At the Villa Sada
which they went to visit while walking they were shown a fine
large dog given them, as Signora Sada said, by Mrs Valerio.
The curiosity of the Baroness was excited by noticing that Mrs
Sada and Carrie talked of Mrs V__. as a mutual acquaintance.
Accordingly when they left the villa the Baroness asked C_ who
Mrs Valerio was, and learned from her that she was an American
of excellent connections who had married a Piedmontese. Upon
this she turned to her husband who was a little distance behind
her and asked about the family of the Valerios. The Baron, not
having heard what had already passed, replied "Oh, è una famiglia
da niente. Uno è un medico, - e- chè so io?" The lady by way of
softening the matter to Carrie, said: "But one of them is prefetto of
Como." "Si, si, ma tutti ne ridevano - un Valerio prefetto!"
I trust Mrs Valerio may never hear of these or any similar re-
-marks. It would be very hard for her, with her just family pride
which she carries to no absurd extent, to feel that she was surrounded
by persons who looked down upon her persons husband's family. The
truth is, that if the Piedmontese nobility had never heard of
Lorenzo Valerio before he was made Prefet of Como it was
owing to the narrowness of their own knowledge of the active and
influentual minds of Italy, and not to the insignificance
of the man. He was well and most honourably known in
Tuscany as a leading man for many years, and is still ranked
very high. But his being Prefetto and Senatore del Regna
can not, in the eyes of a Piedmontese noble, atone for
his being born untitled. When one talks with the Gautiers, sees
how patriotic they are, how cultivated in some directions,
it seems impossible to reconcile the contradictions one finds in them;
During their visit today, they spoke with great severity and
equal pain of a near relative of theirs, a Countess Maffei who
was singing at Covent Garden this winter. It seems she left her
family some eight years ago (in spite of the remonstrances of her
father, who is a man of the highest rank, and of her husband)
determined, as she said, to acquire an immense fortune for her
children - She had the most unbounded confidence in her
talents (which the Gautiers say are scarcely above mediocrity)
and though she has had no real success, she continues to go from
country to country, and continent to continent firm in the faith
that she shall succeed at last in astonishing the world. In the
meantime her daughter has become old enough to feel the
mortification, and has retired to a convent. Her son, a boy
of some eighteen, also feels acutely the discredit thus thrown upon
the family. Friday 20th March.
Mr Marsh's face having changed
from scarlet to violet, and even this last colour being evidently
in a fading condition, we set about packing up today, and were
very busy till dinner. In the evening all the inmates of the
Stabilimento came to make us a goodbye visit. We part
with the Tebbses with real regret - more than regret. They
have contributed much to make the winter pass pleasantly, and I
hope profitably too. An example so pure and high as theirs
ought not to be without effect on any who come within
its reach. We have seen just enough of the Halketts to make
us very sorry that they did not join our party early in the winter.
Mr Cocchetti has not failed to do his share in contributing
to our pleasure. We are glad to leave him in better health and
with a promise that he will come and see us. Poor Signor
Campazzi seems much depressed. Mr Marsh got an opportunity
to tell him he should be glad to serve him in any way that he
could, and this gave Campazzi an occasion to say that he was
willing to do anything that would furnish him with the
means of living - that he would not refuse the most material
employment. I was truly thankful that we had devined his
circumstances and added one quarter to his usual price
for lessons. It is painful to be able to do nothing for so
estimable a man who has sacrificed so much for conscience's
sake. Saturday 21st
We left Pegli at nine - the rain which
threatened us this morning having given place to sunshine.
The mountains to the west and north were glorious in the
morning glow - the upper portions being entirely covered with
new-fallen snow. The temperature was delightful as we drove
through the village, and it was summer until we reached the
bed of the torrent at San Pier D'Arena. Here the cold north-
-wind struck us, and I shivered till I was sitting by a fire
in Genoa an hour after. We encamped at the Quatre Nations,
an imprudence we shall never commit again. I do not know
what Quatre Nations are in the habit of refreshing themselves
here, but the Hotentots are certainly the only people likely
to be comfortable in this establishment. In fact the Hotels gen-
-erally are vile in Genoa. Mr Marsh apologizes for them
on the ground that they are old palaces nastified for
centuries before they came into the hands of the aubergistes.
Even fire would not purify them unless the conflagration
were fierce enough to consume the very earth beneath their
foundations to a considerable depth. Mr & Mrs Valerio and the
Wheelers spent the evening with us. Mrs V_ gave us
some choice acting. I have never before seen her so brilliant.
For a time she personated Mrs Henry Field of New York,
then a young Englishman who took the liberty to talk
to her a few evenings since at the theatre. This last was
infinitely amusing - but her tones and gestures are indispen-
-sible to give effect to the language of the simple soul
whom she was taking off.
Sunday 22nd March.
While Mr Marsh and C. were at church
Mrs Valerio was to have read to me but we talked
instead. In the evening Mr Wheeler gave me some further
developments with regard to Master Henry Green. This
accomplished youngster did Mr Wheeler as successfully
as he had done us. Sir James Hudson was equally
imposed upon, also the Dutch Consul, and several other
foreign officials. All bear testimony that he is a boy of
genius whatever else may be said of him.
Monday 23rd March
Before Mr Marsh and Carrie could set out on a
picture-hunting tour the Commodore came in with three of his
officers, then came Olivieri of the city Library, and so followed
a succession of interruptions until nothing was left of the morning
except an hour for the Pallavicini gallery, which at best is not
worth much time. The Commodore and Mr Wheeler are quite
ready for a war with England. They declare that we can better get
on with Alabamas when we are in a relation to strike back, than
when we are nominally at peace. The Commodore is of course nervous
at the report that a batch of these iron-clad pirates is destined
for the Mediterrenean. He knows that his beautiful, but unplated,
Constellation could not stand a moment before the scaly monsters.
We had what they called a dinner a little before four, and at five
were in t a railroad wagon faced for Turin with Deputato Levi
and a collegue of his. At Turin - 9.15 P.M. - we found Mr
Artoni and Gaetano waiting for us at the station, and in fifteen
minutes we were comfortably housed in the Grande Bretagne. Mr
Artoni seemed so glad to see us that it was really a pleasure,
and even the servants of the Hotel made us quite happy by their
smiles. One [illegible] scrap of news Mr Artoni gave us made me quite
sad. Poor General Cattabene, (who had persisted, contrary to Mr
Marsh's advice, in arming his two thousand men for the United
States' service before he received an answer to the proposal) was
so distressed on receiving intelligence that his offer would not be
accepted that his reason has completely given way, and he has been
sent to a hospital.
Tuesday 24th
This morning the reported change in the
Ministry is confirmed. - Farini, who has gone quite mad, -
it is said he declared to Sir James Hudson that Victor Emma-
-nuel would march into Poland with sixty thousand men
to the aid of the patriots there - is now under medical care
at the hospital for the insane. Minghetti takes his place as
President of the Council. Pasolini too has retired, and Visconti
Venosta, former secretary general, is now Minister of Foreign Affairs.
This last appointment is not well received, the new minister being
very young, and having had very little experience in public affairs.
Mr Botta came in immediately after breakfast. He is to
leave for America in a day or two. I was glad to hear him speak
cheerfully of the prospect both here and at home. Mr Clay came
in later, looks thin, but is as gentle and confiding as ever. I can-
-not help forgiving him for a vast deal of what we Yankees call
shiftlessness - he is so thoroughly sincere and child-like, while
he has excellent sense. Mr Tottenham came in a little later
and is in excellent spirits at the prospects of having a little chapel
or a church soon. He says his own ambition goes no further than
the first, but Sir James thinks if they have anything they must
have a church. It seems he has for a long time hesitated to
speak to Sir James on the subject, because Mr West, first
secretary of the E. Legation, had assured him that Sir James was
determined to do nothing about it, and that it would make
"bad blood" if anything were said to him about it. This
statement, added to the fact that not one of the British Legation
attended his services, kept Mr Tottenham silent until he received
a note from Mr Meille, the excellent Vaudois pastor, offering
him on the part of the Vaudois congregation, a site for a chapel
near their own, in case he wished to put up such a building.
Mr Tottenham then wrote to friends in England, received encourage-
-ment from them, and then thought common courtesy required him
to tell Sir James what he had done. To his surprise he found
Sir James very cordial in his approval of the effort to do some-
-thing in that way, and offered him assistance for which he had
not asked. Sir James however thinks it better to get some more
eligible site, and to build a church rather than chapel, and
Mr Tottenham says he would himself very willingly ask the
king for such a site as he is sure he would grant it at
once. He however prefers the chapel plan as being sufficient for
all probable necessities, and as being so much more quickly and
readily accomplished. Carrie was with the girls while
Mr Tottenham was here. Mr D. C. Payne, who has
been acting attaché to the U. S. Legation at Madrid for the
last year, passed the evening with us. He was actually driven
away from that capital by the dearness of living there, and
gives a sad picture of poor Mr Körner's embarrassments with
his salary of twelve thousand dollars. I can easily understand
the mortifications to which he is subject at a court where all his
collegues spend at least three times that sum. Mr Payne seems
intelligent and well bred, though he has not exactly the
air of a Bostonian which I believe he is.
Wednesday 25th
This morning at half past twelve we took a carriage
for Pióbesi, whither sundry boxes, bookcases, etc. had preceeded
us. The weather was fine, the mountains gorgeous, and we were
not an hour from the city before the old tower stood conspicuous
in the plain before us. Another half hour and we were at the
gate of our home for the summer, and surrounded by a
group of curious villagers anxious to get a glimpse of the
new Lord and Lady of the Castle. Rather rough, I
thought, as I ascended the coarse grey stone steps that
led under the old cloisters and up to the first floor. Within
the air felt damp and chill, and the whole aspect was,
to say the least, uninviting, until a few windows were thrown
open. Then the sunlight poured in and everything was gilded
in an instant. The furniture though plain, was less scanty than
I had expected, but I was disappointed in the size of the
rooms, and in their inaccessibility. To get into any one room it
seemed as if we had to pass through all the rest, and the first
thing concluded was to break here a door and there a door, no
slight job through such massive walls. I grumbled at the
narrow passages, the dark damp anti-rooms, when Carrie brought me
to myself by saying: "Why what would you have Auntie, a square
stout Yankee house, with "squar-rum chambers" and all that?"
I laughed and concluded I wouldn't mind the rude floors
the dark passages, the huge uncovered beams overhead, &c &c.
Then the pretty terrace outside with its ivy covered wall, the
nice cheerful little boudoir the Count had arranged for me, and
a few other soothing points, not to speak of the old tower, the
ugliest thing that can be imagined, but grand in its ugliness,
now put one in good humor, and I dare say we shall be very com-
-fortable in this quaint old place. The inhabitants of Pióbesi
evidently expect considerable patronage. One man applied for the
privelege of furnishing us with milk. Alex. interpreted his
Piobesan to this effect. "I have a milch cow. If the gen-
-tleman will take the milk I should like to know, if not I
shall buy me a little cow and make him grow." The gardener's
wife with her hopeful offspring, Bambino Giuseppe, in her arms
and Ragazzo Maurizio at her apron-strings, seemed to devour us
with her inquisitive eyes, and the heirs evidently had been in the
habit of receiving bonbons from the Count, as they looked a little disap-
-pointed on finding we were not provided with such luxuries. The
priest of the village - chief-priest I mean, for I believe there are others
- took care to be at the corner of the street as we drove away. The
expression of his face as he lifted his broad shovel brim, was hard and
searching. The Count says he is intelligent but arrieré. We
got home about half past six, tired and hungry. At nine
Mr Clay, who, about half an hour before decided to start for
Paris tonight, came in to say goodbye. It made me shiver
to think of his crossing Mont Cenis while there is such an
immense quantity of snow there. All I could do was to beg him
to provide himself abundantly with flannels, shawls and rugs.
Thursday 26th
Mrs Tottenham & the girls came to welcome us this
morning - Miss Rosazza & her governess later. Mrs T. gave me
some town-items, such as that Mrs Sartiges was popular,
Mrs Solvyns not so, etc. Mrs Stanley is a most zealous
deaconess, if not apostle, in the Polish cause. In proportion
as she manifests more & more her liberal proclivities, she
sinks in the social scale here, and she is now very
coldly received by persons who last year considered it
an honour to have a visit from her. Spaventa told
Mr T. that the Police had a watchful eye upon her
as she was believed to be a 'red hot Republican'. Poor
Mrs Stanley is as innocent of Republicanism as she
is of Buddhism, and knows as much about the one as
the other. It is pitiable to see a Government like this
occupied in watching a shatterbrained woman whose
heart is as far from conspiracy as her head is incapa
ble of it. Every hour of my life here makes me more
and more a lover of the institutuons (excepting always
the divine one) of my own country as it was when
I left it. - Young Payne spent the evening with us.
He would be glad to remain here if he could really
be useful as his family strongly oppose him going home. He
seems to feel that duty & honor both direct him to return and
join the army and he will probably do so, though he still tooks
looks rather slender for such work. For social reasons I should like
much to have him stay here, but this is no time to waste material
in luxuries.
Friday 27th
Mr M. & Carrie set out early for Piobesi
and left me to myself for the day. Mons. Dupra, the
editor, of called for a letter sent him through us by Gen.
Cluseret. I was truly glad to see this distinguished French exile
and, though he has unfortunately so indistinct an enunciation
as to make it extremely difficult to understand all he says,
he made a most favorable impression on me. He is one
of those grave Frenchmen who are the gravest of all the
grave, as a gay Frenchman is certainly the gaiest of the
gay. We talked of Italy, of the U. States, of Poland, of every
thing, in short, and I was not a little sorry when he took his
leave. He agreed with me as to Mme Gasparin's genius
but spoke regretfully of her being 'un peu mystique'.
Mr Payne dined with us and Sigr. Filli Filippi & Botta took
tea & passed the evening. The first told us many sad in
cidents of the war new to us - some touching circumstances
about the fate of young Putnam & Lowell etc - alas, alas.
Mr Botta is more hopeful about Italy than I could
have expected to find him. Since Massimo d'Azeglio's
last letter, which shows that even he has relapsed, I
begin to lose heart. Among the many strange phenomena of
the human mind this has often struck me - a man may change
his early political, philosophical an or scientific opinions upon
strong evidence that he had been mistaught, or otherwise led into false
theories, and there is little probability of his ever returning to
the youthful delusion - but the man who has seemed to
shake off completely the gross religious superstitions in-
-stilled into his childhood, who has examined them by the light
of the clearest reason, who has himself launched at them the
sharpest arrows of his wit, is more than likely to return &
and [sic] surrender himself up to them in declining age.
Saturday 28th March
I drove out early this morning to select some carpeting,
then went to make arrangements with Miss Beller for Carrie's
lessons, afterwards took the latter to Miss Rosazza to talk
over the riding-lessons, and finally left her at the Totten-
-hams. I returned in time to receive a visit from the de Bunsens
who are just breaking up for the summer. Madame is to
go to Normandy to her parents who are in affliction, and M.
de Bunsen is reluctantly obliged to live as a bachelor for the
summer. They give sad accounts of the brigandage in
the Neapolitan territory. De Bunsen had just seen one
of the Commissioners sent there to make a report,
but returned a day or two since, the whole Commission
having most narrowly escaped capture. Miss Arbesser
says the Duchess dares not drive beyond Pozzuoli -
not even so far as Portica on the road to Vesuvius -
In answer to my remark that he must know well the way
to Piobesi, it having been the country-seat of his chef, Mr
de Bunsen said - "Oh no, I was never there. The Count enter-
tained a lady there whom a married man like
me - happy in his own family - would not care to see."
Mr Payne spent the evening with us again & I like
him more & more. He goes to Florence to-morrow to stay
some weeks, but may perhaps remain with us afterwards
as attaché. He had been taking tea with the Sartiges
when he came to our room. Mrs S. had told him of
the death of Mme Hauteville. Poor woman! A sadder
story, a more melancholy comment upon the folly of a vain and
weak mother, one seldom hears.
Sunday March 29th
C. and I went to church this morning, Mr Marsh
not being able to go with us as he was obliged to be with
the new Minister of Foreign Affairs. - Mr Tottenham gave
us a very fair sermon, and I was glad to find myself in church
once more. When the services were over I had a warm
greeting from the Baroness Hochschild and Mrs Stanley.
Rustem Bey came in soon after my return to our rooms,
and from him we gathered something more of the whereabouts
and how-abouts of our collegues. He looks in miserable health
and is going into the country soon. Mr. Pulzsky ga made
us a long visit, and gave a lively sketch of his prison
life last year in Naples. His knowledge on all subjects
is very remarkable certainly, and he is awal always in-
teresting, though I should fancy him far less disinterested
than his whole- and high-souled wife. He has lately returned
from a visit to the man of Caprera and does not give
a very encouraging account of his physical condition.
He thinks he will get a partial use of his foot in time
but only in a long time. In temper he says the
hero is sad, but at the same time serene and gentle as
one might expect from a disappointed guardian angel.
Madame Pulzsky is to set out to-morrow with her little
daughter for the rocky island, immortal now as Scio, -
to-morrow the child having been promised to be allowed
to pay a visit to Garibaldi as her birthday treat.
Mrs Stanley came as Mr Pulszky left - full of enthusiasm
for Poland and liberalism in general. She is burning with
indignation at the codini of Turin - says that La Peruzzi
La Pasolini and La Rorà (with one other lady of rank
whose name I forget) were the only women of the society
who really did anything in behalf of the Poles at the late
Concert given for their benefit. I suggested that the official posi
-tion of many of the Turinese would make it impossible for
them to aid the Poles without giving great offence to Russia
and, in some degree, compromising the government, but Mrs
Stanley is too disinterested herself to allow any consideration
to weigh where her sense of the justice of a cause is so
strong. She spoke, as every one else has done, with great
admiration of Madame Mancini's poem written for this occasion.
Mrs S. was able to furnish us some details of the horrible
burnings at Nice this winter. As to the American lady
she only knew her name, and that she was from the
Northern part of the United States, but she was present
at the dreadful scene, even before the poor sufferer was laid
upon her bed - she went at the request to her husband
who had fainted, and in fact was with Mrs Davis much of
the time till her death, six days after the frightful accident.
She speaks with the warmest admiration of the unfortunate
lady's conduct at the time, and through the whole period
of her suffering. Her burns do not appear to have been deep, &
her death was caused by the nervous inflamation that followed.
Mrs Stanley's account of the distress of the husband, who was
in very feeble health, and of all the intolerable annoyances
with regard to the burial which arise in Southern Europe
on such occasions, shocked and pained me more than I can
express. I hope some one who was present and knows all the
facts of the case will give them in detail to the world that it
may be known how far Southern Europe is civilized in the
last half of the nineteenth century. - Levi came in while
Mrs Stanley was still with us, quite full of a project for
Italian mediation between our North and South. Mr Marsh
told him the thing was out of the question, that the South would
not listen to it on any other terms than independence to which
the North never could and never ought to consent. We
questioned Mrs S__. as to Garibaldi with whom she spent
nine days at Pisa. She says he was perfectly calm and gentle
as a child, said nothing bitter of any one, and spoke gratefully
of all who had shown him kindness. On one occasion only
did he utter a word which looked like a complaint. She
showed him a photograph of the ball taken, then recently, from
his foot. He sighed as he looked at it and said "Oh, what will
not men do to get a little money!" - then added - "but it is a
pity that ball did not accomplish the end to which it was
destined." Mrs Stanley said warmly - "But General, the world
knows it could not spare you. - Victor Emmanuel himself" - - -
"On ne veut plus de moi," he interrupted, still calm, but with
most impressive and touching expression. When she was about to
part from him she said. "General, I am going directly to Nice,
Can I do anything for you there?" "Yes," he answered "visit the
graves of my family for me, and tell me how you find them." She
fulfilled the mission, and made a little bouquet of the wild-flowers
and grasses which were growing there, broke some sprays from the
wreaths of immortelle that lay over his mother, and sent them
with her report to the great soldier who had already retired to his
lonely Caprera. There he has lately been visited by some very distin-
-guished persons, among them the Duke and Duchess of Southerland.
Speaking of these last two, Mrs Stanley exclaimed triumphantly:
"Wont old Palmerston be furious, wont he!" Our female champion
for liberty had received two letters from the camp of Langiewizch [Langiewicz],
written just at the commencement of the action which ended
in his retreat into Austria. Gen. Dunn writes: "I hear the guns
already. I am afraid the battle has begun in earnest - if so we shall
surely not win. The troops are half disciplined, half armed, and
we have no Garibaldi here." After our visitors left us Mr Marsh
told something of his interview with Visconti. Speaking of American
affairs the minister said that the feeling in Italy was so unanimous
in favour of the North, so hearty was the desire, so earnest the hopes,
that the arms of the government should be victorious, that it could
not be said there was even a party that entertained different
sentiments. All questions of interest were sunk in the conviction
that the great cause of human liberty was the cause at stake in
this struggle, and the final triumph of Northern arms and the re-
-construction of the great Nation towards which the oppressed of
Europe had been looking so long and so hopefully, were the consumation
consummation to which every Italian heart aspired. By
the way, Rustem Bey says that Madame Solmes Rattazzi has made
very little social progress here - very few persons having sent cards in
answer to the wedding announcement. He was one of the exceptions,
having, as he said, received many former courtesies from the lady and
accepted her hospitalities not long before her marriage, and being an
unmarried man he had thought best to continue the acquaintance.
Monday March 30th
After spending most of the morning at the Legation
Mr Marsh paid a few visits and came home in time to receive the
Abbé Baruffi who was to dine with us - I found the Abbé greatly
changed. He has a very bad cough of three months standing, does not
hear readily, and has lost much of his charming vivacity. He told us
many lively things, but it was all done with evident effort. I think
he is a little anxious about himself, and I am afraid he has good cause.
His depression may have been owing in part to the circumstance that he
had just left the death-bed of the son-in-law of the Countess Balbo.
We enquired after Baron Plana, who is as well as last winter, and
active as ever in his mathematical researches, and as ready as ever
to improvising rhymes. Since the marriage of Rattazzi the Abbé says
he was standing near Plana at some réunion with Rattazzi
and his bride not twelve paces from them, when the deaf old
Baron screaming at his friend as if he were as deaf as himself, said
Rattazzi, en épousant cette nouvelle Ninon,
S'est fait la queue de Napoléon. Neither
the rhyme nor the metre were good enough to amuse the excuse
the inconvénance, and the Abbé managed to make the
Baron understand that he begged he would speak lower. "Mais
les grandes vérités doivent se dire hautement," said the fiery
and uncontrolable old astronmer. This marriage of Rattazzi
is still one of the subjects of gossip here, and we were not a little
amused at the reply of Baruffi when we enquired what was likely
to become of the social question about Madame Rattazzi. "Everything
in her past life would have been easily overlooked but for that
last inconvénance - her marrying again just twenty three days
after the death of her husband, Count de Solmes." It is very difficult
for a person not accustomed to the social usages of the Continent to
understand who how the grossest and most open misconduct of
a wife during the life of her husband year after year, & even
through the whole period of his last illness can be more readily
Dr Valerio, who had the care of the Count de Solmes during his
illness, says that the poor man told him frankly that he had no
wish to recover. Dr. V_. insisted on calling in another physician
because he was unwilling to take the responsibility of a [illegible]
husband's
life while
his wife was unreserved in her devotion to another man during
the very hours when the former ways lying in a half-dying condition.
Terrible things are whispered - too terrible to be believed even of Madame
de Solmes.
overlooked than the simple violation of what the world considers
a convénance. Had the Countess de Solmes taken up her residence
as openly with Rattazzi without the ceremony of marriage as
she has done with it, and postponed that little formality to the
time fixed by conventional usage, all would have been quite right!
No moral delinquency affects position in the European world so much as
an offence against the conventionalities.
Tuesday 31st
A visit from the Browns was our only interruption from the
work of preparation for going into the country tomorrow. We talked
Aristocracy and Democracy, but kept off from any dangerous deba-
-table ground. Miss Brown showed far more liberality and good
sense than I expected from her. I was so tired that I had
retired to my room before the Abbé came in to say goodbye as he
had promised. Mr Marsh thought he seemed rather better than yes-
-terday. Wednesday April 1st
We were dismayed this morning to find it raining
Fortunately it did not last long - cart came - the remaining boxes
were stowed away and by half past three P.M. all our sieben sachen
were on their way to Piubez, as the natives call it. We then
sat down to an early dinner, after which we payed a shamefull bill
for our weeks entertainment at the Grande Bretagne. We did it
with a good grace however, having learned that resistance to such
impositions only adds fuel to one's own indignation without ever
winning the slightest redress, and accordingly we bade the robbers
a bland good morning, and answered their buon viaggio with a
Tuesday afternoon. Alex. brought back so dismal a report last
night as to the prospect at Pióbesi - that nothing was to be found
there - not even good meal for polenta, - that it was three quartes of
an hour's walk to the station and good walking at that - that there
was trouble about the stable, difficulty in finding any one to care for
horses - and ten thousand other difficulties - so that in short we heartily
wished everything back again in Turin. Mr Marsh at once set
about fresh enquiries for a house in town, went to look at an
unfurnished apartment, found it wouldn't do, and came home quite
out of spirits. Alex. soon came in with a half pleased, half astonished
expression, and said: "Ma'am what do you think! Giacchino has goot the
coorage to go herself to the Countess Ghirardi and ask her if she wish
to rent the Casa d'Angennes for two years!" I sent for Giacchino
who said she was ready to go and say to the Countess that Mr Marsh would
like the Casa d'Angennes for two years provided she could give him
several more rooms than before, and the terms were not unreasonable.
I gave her my blessing and sent her. The Countess received her most
graciously, expressed her regret we had ever left the house, complained
bitterly of Madame de Solmes, of the faithlessness of her agents etc. and
said it was entirely owing to this last circumstance that she had failed
in her engagements to us. She said she was doing a great deal to the
house, - that she thought when all was finished it would suit us, &
if so, and we could manage to get some rooms of Stella (who she
could do nothing with) in the story above, she thought everything would
be arranged satisfactorily. I shall be too happy if this can be brought
about.
smiling Grazie. Soon after six we reached the Castle and
the first step under the Cloisters showed us that our new
Susanne was a broom that swept clean. As we passed within
the door we were not met, as on our first visit, by a current
of damp, vault-like air, but by a feeling of warmth, and the
bright face of Susanne who in reply to our vie geht's answered
"Ganz gut! ganz gut!" so heartily and so cheerily that it was
quite like a welcome. Im the principal salotto a bright fire
was blazing, and I should have scarcely recognized it as the
room I had seen two days before. The fire-light touched beautifully
the picture frames, but happily was not strong enough to show the
pictures themselves. In fact everything gained by the semi-obscurity,
and the sound of coming china followed by the odour of the blessed
herb, and then the sight of the well-ordered tea-tray put us at once in
the best of humours. We went to bed early and slept well.
Thursday April 2nd
A most comfortable-looking breakfast was waiting for me when
I came out of my room this morning. Mr Marsh had already done a
hard morning's work among his books, having turned round three heavy
cases simply to please my eye. I was sorry I had criticized his
first arrangement and so given him all this trouble. The remainder
of the morning was spent in the confusion indispensible to a moving.
It will be a long time before we are really straightened out, but
that once accomplished I fancy we shall not find ourselves so badly
off here. The old tower looks very grand and stately, but it does not
take long to see that it's not of Roman workmanship. It is very old certainly
but as certainly, not Roman. The room we have selected for a library
opens directly upon a broad terrace by the very side of the tower and
from this terrace we shall have the finest opportunity of watching the
habits of the swallows which are nesting by thousands in the old
walls. The mountains were not very clear this morning. We were all
very tired by dinner-time, and sat down with a sharp appetite to
the ample provisions which Alex. had made for us notwithstanding the
thousand other things he has had to attend to today. A glowing
fire on the hearth, and the prettiest of lamps on the table completed
the work of restoration, and we all congratulated ourselves that our
lives, after all, had fallen in pleasant places. Carrie found a marvellous
set of cards in a little drawer which proved, as the explanation of the
game states, to represent the means by which Joseph explained Pharaoh's
dream, and by which Moses wrought all his miracles in the presence of
the later Pharoahs. "Cosè," in the naïve words of the publisher "resta
avverato che i tarocchi pigliarono origine in Egitto." We
laughed heartily over this discovery, then drank our tea, pitying the
Turinese who were pitying us. By and bye, however. Mr Marsh
and Carrie, both of whom had worked rather hard, began to look a
little heavy, and in spite of all my efforts to be entertaining first one,
then the other dropped off into a doze though they both declared they
were not in the least sleepy. I was half inclined to steal off quietly
to my chamber, giving as I passed, strict orders to the servants not
to disturb their sleepy wakefulness till morning. Giacchino however came
in with a tap that roused them - I apologized for their disturbance -
they repeated their assurances that they were wide awake - and I went to bed.
Friday April 3rd
Husband left in the 8.50 train for Turin. The morning
is lovely, the birds noisy if not musical, and everything is almost as
still as round the Castle of the Sleeping Beauty. Carrie and I have
very unromantic work to do, or we should put ourselves in the sun
on the terrace to watch the rondinelle, the just-blossoming peach-
-trees and the great buds of a magnolia, very common in and around
Turin but which I have never seen before. It is a most beautiful shrub,
but not hardy enough I suppose to live in any part of New England.
Our dreadful frosts deprive us of many of Nature's best gifts; but we
have our compensations of which I know the worth better every day.
Husband returned at one, Carrie and I threw up our work, and
lent such a hand as we could to aid in regulating the library a
little. Saturday 4th
We make very slow progress in getting settled.
As usual one thing has to wait for another, one person for another,
and if by the end of the month we are really in order I shall be
thankful. Mr Artoni came out at half past six, and we had a
pleasant evening by a bright blazing fire. He is a dear good soul,
as sincere as the light. I am sorry for his lonely situation, and
wish he had somebody to love and care for him as he deserves.
Sunday 5th April.
After breakfast it was proposed to make a general
ascension of the tower, our eyes having been astonished this morning
by seeing it crowned by a large and handsome American Flag.
All enquiries are vain as to how it came there. It was evidently
got up by our servants as a pleasant surprise, but how they man-
-aged it we cannot think. I was pleased to find the tower
very respectable in the inside, the stair-case good with a safe
railing, and at every landing place was a space that might
almost serve for a chamber. The wall is at least six feet
in thickness, and in every window there is room enough for two
or three chairs. My strength would not hold out to reach the
top. (Mr Marsh estimates the height of the tower at 80 feet,
but we intend to measure it) and I was obliged to content my-
-self with a seat in a window at little more than half way up.
As soon as the rest had left me to myself, the birds, (they are
stornelli - starlings - and not rondinelle) came almost into my
very face, and did not seem in the least afraid. The whole landscape
before me was so sweet and quiet, the Alps so majestically grand,
the sky so clear and blue, that I gave myself up at once to the
mighty influence that nature is sometimes able to exert upon us
in a way that we cannot resist if we would - and would not
certainly if we could. I left the place with a sigh at the
certainty that I should so seldom be able to enjoy the prospect
it afforded. At one Gaetano brought papers and letters from America,
the latter confirming the news we had before received as probable,
that Aleck was in the hands of the enemy. Poor fellow! May
God preserve him for the sake of his parents and all of us. How I
pity his father and mother - even more than himself. But we ought
to be thankful that he but lost his liberty in a fight where so many lost
their lives. I am afraid we shall hear of Milton in the
Army next - but we must be patient, if it is God's will.
We talked Italian all day with Mr Artoni - and exercise
worth many lessons. Alex. gave us a festa-dinner, and in the
evening Mr Artoni talked over his New England life which he
remembers with the most grateful and affectionate interest.
I went to bed regretting that we had not had our carriage to
take us into church this morning, which I should have
liked so
very
much. Saturday evening as Mr Artoni was walking
from the Station he fell in with the schoolmaster, and the leading
priest of the village. He made their acquaintance, and learned from
them that in a town about three miles from Pióbesi a Mystery
play was to be represented in honour of Easter Sunday. No
doubt this is a remnant of the Mysteries of the Middle Ages,
and we were very sorry that we could not see it. By the way,
I should not forget to note that we received a visit today from
detto il Poeta! I was in my dressing-room
with Carrie and our maid when the door suddenly opened and
a little, round, red-faced old man, with the jolliest looking fellow
imaginable, exclaimed "Oh, scusi, Signore scusi!" Giacchino
rushed at him indignantly, and showed him how to find his
way out which he had mistaken. As they went through the
passage he informed her that he had been in the salone to
pay his homage to His Excellency, which was "egualmente il suo
dovere, e il suo diritto.' When I returned to the drawing-room
I found Mr Marsh and Mr Artoni immensely diverted by
the visit. The poet had introduced himself under the title
I have given him above, paid his compliments, and declared
himself ready to serve His Excellency, when his art might be of
use. He said he had written
composed
many tragedies which he was
too poor to publish, but which he still had in his head, that
he had also written several sonnets in honour of Bacchus, one
of which he forthwith proceeded to declaim. That he was
under the immediate inspiration of the God himself there
could be no doubt. Altogether it must have been a most
funny scene, and I was sorry enough to have missed it.
The only other event of the day was a present of some of the sweetest
hyacinths, carnations, and violets, brought by the gardener of
Baron Gautiers in obedience to the order of his master.
Monday 6th
After writing letters and other morning occupations I ventured
into the garden with Carrie, and was surprised to find the turfed
banks almost completely covered with sweet violets. The fruit-trees
are now nearly in full bloom, and several magnolias are
loaded with large tulip-like flowers - very beautiful but without a
single green leaf. The air was delightfully soft and we sat down
like two children on the grassy banks and gathered the violets
most vigorously. What a blessing it is that these simple pleasures
continue to be pleasures as long as life lasts. They may waken -
indeed the must waken - in the memories of those who have
travelled far on this earthly track, a thousand sad, even painful
associations, but the emotions of sorrow are still mixed with a
quiet joy which enters the soul one cannot say how, through
these gentle inspirations of Nature. Mr Marsh joined us before
we left the garden and we returned to the house together. My
maid wove some of the violets and ivy-leaves into my hair, dressed
me in violet, Carrie came out with a lovely knot of the sweet blossoms
and green leaves on her bosom, then arranged a beautiful basket of the
same mingled with white and purple hyacinth &c, and we
sat down to dinner looking 'smart' enough to have entertained His
Majesty if he had chanced to visit us on his way to Stupinigi.
In the evening we were glad of a fire again, not because it is
now cold, but there is a dampness about the house which we
feel as soon as the sun is down. This evening we began to read
Andrew's Life of our Lord, lately published by Scribner. It
promises well. A volume of Babinet came in by way of change.
Tuesday April 7th
We all breakfasted together a little before eight in time
for Mr Marsh to go to Turin by the early train. Not long after Alexan
came in saying: "Now the priest he come directly to bless the
house - you not want it blessed?" No, I said, we dont care
to have it blessed, but you may give him his fee all the same, and
let him bless the gardener's premises if he wishes it, and any other
part that the servants may desire to have blessed. The messenger departed
with a smile - I fancy he cares as little about the blessing as we do,
Catholic though he professes to be. Leaving Carrie to her lessons I thought
I would venture a walk as far as the bank of violets. When there I was
about to sit down on my cushion with the prospect of an ample
harvest of the blossoms that were literally filling the air with their sweetness,
when I observed, probably just in time to save myself from harm, that the
bees were before me, and that there was not a patch as large as my hand that
not already in possession of the enemy. I walked round and round, snatching
here and there a violet from the edge of the bank, but at every prize I
was distinctly warned off the premises. At last they began to buzz about my
ears so thick and close that I was forced to retreat altogether, and
content myself with a few gleanings along the edges of the box-borders,
but the greedy little creatures would not suffer even this. They followed
me pertinaciously - their numbers increasing, and their hostility becoming
more and more threatening until I finally turned toward the house
with a much quicker step than I had left it, and the vicious little
wretches followed me on to the very terrace, and I felt myself
in safety only when fairly in the library. Carrie laughed heartily
at my flushed face, but I tried in vain to coax her to go and make
a similar experiment. Mr Marsh came home at half past six bringing
no American news, but a large package of the English Daily News, sent
by Mr Solvyns for my consolation. Mrs S__. has certainly been successful
in making a good American of her husband. He is thoroughly with us, and it is an
honour to any cause to have such a man among its defenders. Mrs Sartiges
has not been so successful with her Lord, as much perhaps from the inferiority of the
material she had to work over, as from inferior capability on her own part. Talking
over the difficulty, or rather the contradiction between Mr Seward and M. Mercier,
Mrs Sartiges said to Mrs Solvyns: "Of course you believe that M. Mercier told the
truth?" "No I dont - I dont believe a word of what he says." was the reply of
Mrs Solvyns. It seems that Mr Sartiges has got himself into a mess
with the king. He lately asked for a private interview with him, and in the
course of it said: 'I suppose your Majesty is now prepared to admit the necessi-
ty of leaving to the Pope the territory he claims as his patrimony, and is ready
to renounce all further claim to it.' 'Certainly I am not' replied the
king. 'To renounce my claim to the papal states would be to disown
all my past life, to renounce the title voluntarily bestowed upon me by
the Italian Nation, whose unity I have sworn to accomplish and defend.'
'But' replied the French Minister Ambassador, 'your Majesty has now a
new Ministry, and can throw the responsibility of the change of policy upon
that Ministry.' Upon this the King grew hot 'For whom do you take
me! I should be unworthy the name of a man, not to say
King, if I could do the base thing you propose!' Everybody
is delighted at this new proof that Victor Emmanuel is still the
Re Galanluomo [Galantuomo], and that he has the spirit to face
even
an Ambassador
of the Emperor of France. Sartiges is fast earning for himself here the
epithet he so justly acquired in America - a poor creature.
The Capo Stazione at Candiolo entertained Mr Marsh, while he was
waiting for the train in the morning, with a sketch of the country about
Pióbesi, and its inhabitants - not at all calculated to make one ambitious
of a long residence here. He declares that the whole region is well nigh
pestilential - Rossore, being almost universal in the Spring and
fevers throughout the Summer and Autumn. The four thousand inhabitants,
as he states the number, he declares to be all miserably poor (which
I can easily believe), and as thievish, vicious, and ungrateful, as they are
poor, which for the present we shall try not to believe. Mr Marsh has no doubt
there is great exageration in this picture, but he believes in it enough to make
him want to get back to Turin as soon as a convenient house can be found
While Mr Marsh was with the Solvyns the good old Chanoine Carrel
called at the Legation. Mr Marsh set out, immediately upon his return, in
search of him, but found he had not returned to his rooms. He was very
sorry to miss him, but hopes he may still be in Turin when he next goes
to town. [Images]