From
April 8th 1863
To
June 14th 1863
Wednesday April 8th 1863.
Mr Marsh was able to set himself about his book
again today, but Carrie and I had to give the whole morning to looking
over and arranging bills, papers etc. After our work was over she ventured
alone to encounter the bees, and came in with her hands full of
violets, though she confessed to having met with a sharp resistance.
Thursday 9th.
Carrie went in to Turin for her French and riding
lessons this morning. Alex. managed to muster an odd-looking old
vehicle that might have passed for the Deacon's 'one hoss shay' in
the last days of its being. Giacchino volunteered to drive the poor
lame horse which was to draw it to the station, and in this way
she and Carrie were saved the long walk. Alex. and Gaetano preceeded
them on foot, so that Mr Marsh and I had full possession of the
seignorerial [seigneurial] part of the Castle - Carlo and Susanne, of the humbler
quarters. For the first [illegible] time since I left America I spent the day
in translating a German poem into English. At four the whole
party came back in our carriage of which Borgo has at last given
us possession, and we shall now be comparatively independent.
They brought a large mail from America - family letters etc. Among
them one from our poor Aleck written about a fortnight before
he was taken prisoner - in very good spirits and full of really
touching patriotism. God grant he may be speedily exchanged, and
live to do his Country still further service. The general news
from America is encouraging notwithstanding the hypocritical
jerremiads of 'our correspondent' of the English Times. I am glad
to see the leading American papers speak out boldly as to the propri-
-ety of making war upon English commerce at once in case
she fits out more Alabama's. This tone, which England cannot
fail to see is good earnest, will soon put a stop to her piracies.
Giacchino had a second interview with the Countess Ghirardi
today in the subject of the Casa d'Angennes. The Countess makes
such fair offers, and the chance of doing anything else is so small
that I am afraid we shall be driven to take the house from May
and pay the rent all summer without occupying it, merely for
the sake of being sure of a roof next winter.
Friday 10th
It was again necessary for Mr Marsh to spend the day at the
Legation. He found Chanoine Carrel already waiting for him there,
supplied him liberally with seeds from the Patent Office, added certain
packages for our famous guide Pellissier, and talked over various
schemes for the Becca di Nona, and other Alpine excursions this
summer. The hardy old mountaineer is so full of enthusiasm as
ever. I am sorry not to see him. Carrie and I spent an hour
among the violets - rest of the day as usual. The King arrived
safely at Florence this evening at five, but we have as yet no accounts
of his reception. It is to be hoped every thing will go smoothly this
time. Every body is pleased that the king has behaved so well in the
affair of Bensa - Glowing statements too are given of the increasing
popularity of the Duchess at Naples, and the admiration bestowed
on her children - The poor Greeks, who supposed they had a king
at last in the person of Prince William of Denmark, are said to
be thrown quite aback by certain conditions which it will be impossible
for them to accede to. No doubt they would be glad to accept the
advice of the Examiner, and try to do without the "bear" if the Great
Powers would allow them to do so. The
Saturday April 11th.
The last bookcases were brought today, and Mr Marsh library
finally set up, so that I hope he may work more conveniently next week.
We were able to fill our baskets with violets most abundantly this morning
but it will probably be our last harvest, except gleanings, this spring. We
sent the carriage
to the station
for Mr Artoni at six. He was surprised to find what pro-
-gress the foliage and the flowers of the garden have made this week. One
really does almost see the growth of the vine leaves over the balcony.
Indeed the creepers generally are getting quite green though ten days age
they were as bare as in January.
Sunday 12th
The well-ones passed the day in talking walking,
driving and reading or listening to letters and papers from home and
from England. In the first and last I shared fully, but was not
well enough for any out-door performances. Among items of home -
news was a letter from Alick's Colonel, saying that they were well-
-treated and in good spirits, but knew nothing of their destination.
This is quite a relief, but there is still much cause for anxiety
about their ultimate fate - moving, as they are, further south into a
more unhealthy and destitute region. The general aspect of
the American news is cheering. The Copperheads are turning tail in
most of the States, though they are still blustering in Indiana.
Even there one of the stout-hearted loyal boys writes us they are not
feared. If tomorrow does not bring us news of defeats we shall
feel much encouraged. "Our correspondent" of the London Times
in getting frantic. The awful crisis he has predicted won't come, -
the people, though they haven't a spark of patriotism, have a
silly superstition about the Stars and Stripes which he can't account
for, but which makes them utterly blind to their true interests.
In fact the faith in the ultimate restoration of the Union amounts
to a hallucination, - never was a nation so perverse in refusing
to fulfil prophecy. Mr Artoni returned to Turin this evening.
Monday April 13th
A rainy day which Mr Marsh spent on his book and
in bringing up some private correspondence, and Carrie in reading and
writing at my bedside. We are in little danger of interruption here in any
weather, but least of all in this. The only event of the day was
Gaetano's embassy to Turin for the post, which brought nothing
of consequence. Some of the cards which come to us from Turin make
us regret the loss of opportunities to make interesting acquaintances, but
one cannot have one's time for work and for play too.
Tuesday 14th
Mr Marsh went to town immediately after break-
fast. This will give him an opportunity of seeing what the road
will be after rain. The report is that the grass looks wonderfully
green, and the forthcoming leaves have made very rapid progress, but I
am not well enough to get up and look for myself. I can however
hear the merry voices of the birds - These blessed little creatures
may be counted here by thousands, and it is very pleasant to
hear them, but after all there is no note among them like that
of our dear homely red-breast - or like our golden robin, or
our bobolink, or many another American bird I could name.
I hope we may have the nightingale later, but I am afraid
our garden is not pretty enough to attract this fastidious little
creature. Mr Marsh came back at five just as Carrie and I
were finishing our hundred pages of Nota. The road he declares
to be passing bad - it having taken him two hours and twenty minutes
to go to Turin instead of the usual hour and a half. He brought no
news, and had nothing of interest the tell us except that the house
lately proposed to us by Dr Monnet, though prettily furnished and
in some respects desirable, was not large enough to hold us. It contains
but nine rooms in all including kitchen, all rather small, and the rent
six thousand francs a year - as much as we paid for the Casa d'Angennes,
By the way, our scheming for this last again has failed - Stella refusing
to rent any of the rooms on the upper piano, and the Countess making
up her mind that she could not hire for a year and a half in the little
apartment a pian terreno. We shall be obliged I suppose to try for the
d'Azeglio house once more.
Wednesday 15th
I joined Mr Marsh and Carrie at five in the newly
arranged dining room, but took my dinner at a little table by myself
where I could lie on the sofa. Among the fruits for [illegible]
desert
Alex, presented us with some very odd-looking apples. I had often
seen similar ones in Italy in the little street-markets, and wonderingly
watched the old women as they took them dripping from some small cask
or pail. I now found out
find
that they are a species of sour, hard, late
apple, which put in cold water as soon as gathered and so kept until
a thorough fermentation has taken place. The water is then changed
after which the apples are left in their bath until wanted for
use. They are said to keep in this way almost indefinitely, and
are called mele composte. They have much the appearance
and taste of our 'frozen apples' which have remained on the trees
through the winter, though the skin is much thicker and tougher,
and the taste of the fruit more vapid.
Thursday April 16th
It being Carrie's lesson-day at Turin, she with
the servants drove away a little before eight, leaving Mr Marsh
and me with only Carlo and Susanne as before. As I was
not well enough to be up Mr Marsh came to look at me from
hour to hour, breaking off from his book-making for a few minutes
at a time. At four they returned, bringing the American mail,
but no very important news.
Friday 17th
With letter-writing, German, drawing and Nota the
morning flew away so rapidly that I was surprised to find it almost
five o'clock, when Mr Marsh returned from Turin. While Carrie was
drawing I sat for an hour on the terrace looking in astonishment at the
change which had taken place in the garden during the four days I had
been shut up in my room. The woodbine on the old tower is now
well leaved out, though it was not advanced enough on Sunday to
make me quite sure it was woodbine - the trees, which were only slightly
tinged with green, now cast a full shadow, - the rose bushes are
coming out finely - a large vine-like acacia - a form of the plant
new to me - is running up the terrace, and another over the lower
arches of the old cloisters, both in full flower - clusters very like our
locust blossoms, only of a pale lilac colour, bordering on blue. The
grape-vines are beautiful with those delicate tints that appear on
their first young leaves, and they are already throwing out their flowers.
Indeed everything is so changed that I scarcely recognize the place.
If it continues to improve in this way we shall soon grow decidedly
fond of the Castillo degli Stornelli of which we have sometimes
spoken a little disrespectfully. By the way, the number of birds
that inhabit the old tower, and that are flocking among the
garden trees is something wonderful. From what we had previously
known of the habits of the Italians generally, in making war upon
all winged creatures, we certainly did not expect to find ourselves
surrounded by such a feathered population. It is a joy to see the
joy of these happy creatures. There is another species of animal life here
less attractive indeed, but scarcely less numerous - I mean the lizards.
As I sat on the terrace this morning I think I saw literally hundreds
running about on the stone platform, darting in and out at every
crevice, springing up the wall, disappearing on the other side, climbing
up again, looking wickedly at me with their little sharp eyes, but
showing so little fear that I might have put my hand upon
them if I had been so disposed. Well I remember when the sight of
one of these creatures, so rare in the region where I was born, made
me shudder. It was not till my Oriental experience that had
familiarized me with them, and till my long domestication
with the wonderful chameleon had made me feel the liveliest interest
in this curious family, that I learned to see them not only without dislike
but with positive pleasure.
Saturday April 18th.
The morning flew away as usual broken up a little by
the waxing of floors and the migration of Carrie into her new upper room
that has a lovely view of the mountains and plain, and is close to the old
tower with all its birds and all its fancies. I quite envy her. At six we
sent for Mr Artoni, and surprised him by the progress we had made in
greenery during the week. At dinner we happened to be talking of dialects
when he gave the transformation of vino in its progress from Florence to
Bergamo. Vino in Tuscany. Vin in Venice. Vi with a scarcely
perceptible nasal, in Brescia, Chi pronounced as a strong gutteral in
Bergamo. Such examples make one excessively sceptical about all
etymologies except merely historical ones.
Sunday 19th.
We took a little turn about the garden when the
sun was high enough to have taken the chill from the air, and had
just returned to the terrace where were were sitting watching the
lizards as they chased the flies on the warm sunny wall. We
had noticed in our ramble a frog which had lost his leg, and a
lizard which was minus his tail. Mr Artoni in a mock moralizing
tone was commenting upon the trials of the inferior ranks of animal
life, and I had allowed myself to fall into a vein of conversation
in which I now seldom feel like indulging, when our talk was
suddenly interrupted by Gaetano: "Mi hanno detto a Torino questa
mattina che é morto il Signor Tourte, Ministro di Svizzera".
We all started to our feet. None of us had heard even of his illness.
Gaetano had not been able to get a paper and we already began to
hope it might be a mistake when Alessandro came in with the
Gazetta. It was even so. 'Mr Tourte, Minister from Switzerland,
died yesterday at four o'clock of typhoid fever - a great loss etc.'
A great loss indeed. He was one of the very few men in the Dip. Corps
with really broad and noble political views - one of the few who either
know or care any thing about Amenca. His heart was really interested
in the success of the North - he was a warm friend to Italy and
in every sense a liberal minded philanthropist. As a man of native
genius he certainly held the first rank among his collegues. We might
have felt the loss of Mr Solvyns as much, but the death of no other
member of the Diplomatic Corps would have been so severe a blow to
us. It was fortunate fortunate [sic] that Mr Artoni was in far higher
spirits than usual - otherwise I think we should not have been able
to keep up even an appearance of cheerfulness afterwards. I was not sorry
when the hour came to take him to the station, and we were left to
indulge our own thoughts. We sent Gaetano down also to ascertain
about the funeral as the papers never give the hour in this Country,
and one must find out as one can. I am distressed that we
did not know of Mr Tort Tourte's illness, but it must have been very short.
Monday 20th
Gaetano came back by the six AM. train and Mr Marsh was
obliged to hurry off instantly in order to be in time for the funeral
at half past nine. Alex. was quick enough to get a cup of tea for him
while he was changing his dress, for which I was very thankful, but as
soon as he was off I was distressed to notice the great change that
had taken place in the weather - a damp, cold east wind having
come up and the shawl was left behind. He returned before four, had
been chilled by the drive out, and did not seem well. The account he gives
of the funeral is in many respects painful. The National guard was out, with band
etc, an immense concourse of people assembled in the streets to see the procession
and a very large number of carriages followed the body to the cemetary. The coffin
was taken from the car by four ragged fellows, probably Swiss, and carried to the
place of burial. Mr Meille then read from the New Testament selections far
from being particularly appropriate, or even in good taste, for the occasion, he
then gave a brief discourse in which he showed more discretion; but he was
then followed by our old acquaintance of Andorno - Father Ambrogio - who
forgot all the proprieties of such an occasion and fell, with the energy of
old John Knox, upon the Romish Church. By way of eulogizing the
dead, he said, "È vero che non apparteneva a quella setta nemica
di Dio che vende le indulgenze!" etc etc. "Non è vero, non è vero,
come dice quella setta, che non ci sia salute fuora di essa!" etc.
Mr Marsh was shocked at the bad taste of such an attack on the
pope and the papacy, when most of those illegible who had come there to
show their respect, for the departed were faithful adherents to that Church.
Everybody kept quiet however - some members of the Spanish Legation only whispering
to each other that the man was mad. The whole scene struck Mr Marsh
as singularly wanting in everything like dignity and impressiveness and he
expressed strong regret that Protestantism should have made so sad a
figure before so large an assembly of Catholics. To show how different an
impression may be produced by the same circumstances upon a man of
another class I must say that Gaetano, a Catholic of course, came home
delighted with the performance of Father Ambrogio - "Good for 'em, good
for 'em!" says he, "he told them some true things about the pope and
his Church, they ought to hear them, it will do them good!" I am
not surprised at any want of discretion on the part of good Father Ambrogio,
but I am rather disappointed to find Mr Meille did not acquit himself
more creditably. The more I see of the Waldensese however, the more I
am convinced that their leaders are not men of breath enough to do
much for the religious reformation of Italy. The L. Times today is
full of indignation about Mr Adams' "permit" to the English ship
to land at the Matamorus. It is very funny certainly, and I
dont wonder at their irritation though they have fairly brought it upon
themselves. Mr Adams will no doubt have some explanation to make,
but the present aspect of the thing is that this cautious and dexterous diplomat
has for once made a mistake - a trifle to be sure, but one for which he
is likely to be well abused. The papers tonight say that Farini is
somewhat better. I hope he may recover his mind l sufficiently to ap-
-preciate and enjoy the very handsome compliment the Chambers have
paid to his great services - 200000 frs.
Tuesday 21st, April
It is quite incredible how swiftly these days pass - unin-
-terrupted though they are. When I joined Mr Marsh and Carrie at the
breakfast table, they, as usual, had already been up between three and
four hours. - After breakfast we wrote a little, read a little, worked a
little while in water-colours after Ruskin, and in the midst of it
Giacchino came to ask if I was ready to dress for dinner. I was
amazed. The dressing done we all strolled into the garden - Carrie
mounted the tower, tied a cork to the end of a ball of worsted
and lowered it down from one of the turrets greatly to our amusement
and much to our edification afterwards, the result being that the
height of the tower was ninety nine feet from the point of the turret
which she was able to reach, but the outer wall of the turret
rises more than a foot higher, so that we may fairly say the venerable
old pile measures a good hundred. In the evening we were struck
by the particularly melancholy hooting of an owl in one of the old
windows. The servants told us that the gardener had shot its mate
during the day, because he believed the creature destroyed his cherries
while they were in blossom. We were vexed at the stupidity as
well as the cruelty of this act, and I suppose we shall try in vain
to convince the gardener that owls do not eat his cherry blossoms, and
that on the contrary - they would be a great protection to him against the
moles of which he complains so bitterly. The 'voices of the night'
last night were most plaintive, the frogs sang their loneliest and
most monotonous song, and the poor desolate owl cried in a way
to make ones heart ache - yet all was wonderfully 'suggestive'
as they say in these days.
Wednesday 22nd April.
Another of our precious uninterrupted days. Our friends
pity us for being here so utterly without resource. We, on the contrary,
congratulate ourselves on this most delicious quiet, and only sigh at
the thought that such days must be very few. A stroll in the
garden closed the working-day.
Thursday 23rd
Carrie went to Turin for her lessons, and as I found
my eyes too painful even to make the little use of them that I
generally can, husband kindly gave up his work earlier than
usual, and read to me, and carried my chair for me from one
pleasant point in the garden to another. The day was beautiful.
The sun has great power now - one soon feels faint while standing
or walking in it, but in the shade a shawl is still necessary,
the air which comes down from the snow-covered mountains tells
plainly its origin. There was something so very soft in the colour
of the sky, something so very tender in all the sounds about us,
the hum of the thousand bees, the low rustle of the leaves, and
the loving notes of the birds, that we both of us became unconsciously
silent, and for myself I felt as if I were in a dream - a dream
which had so much of childhood in it that my eyes were
too full of tears to venture to lift them up to the face that was
beside me. As we returned to the house, we both said at the
same moment: 'How is it possible not to love the Country?' We
returned to our reading - a little collection of Italian stories - the
two first most beautiful. The Pietà di Mamma, an exquisitely touching
story of Italian humble life - the subject being the distress of the inhab-
-itants of a poor village when the order was given that there must be
no more burial in the Church, and that a Camposanto should be
consecrated outside the village. Before reading this story I had never
conceived that it could be a cause of pain to have a departed friend
laid at rest under the green sod, rather than under the cold pavement
of a dusky Church, but I understand it now. The second, L'Annina,
has the scene laid in Il Chianti, near Spina, and the Maremme,
and is scarcely less pathetic than the first. Speaking of the character
of the inhabitants, which the writer declares to be now most gentle
and honest, he admits that for ages they had a very bad name, and
among other proverbs he quotes this "molto brutto dettato" of the
village of Radda:
"Radda!
Passa e guarda!
Non ti fermar per via,
Chi un*
*non.
fa 'l ladro, fa la spia."
This story refers to
the poorest class of peasants
called pigionali,
who go to Frena, or to the Maremme,
during harvest time to hire themselves as reapers. The third story
is a legend of the same region, and the writer takes occasion, after
painting the horors of life here during the Middle Ages, to pay
Baron Ricasoli a handsome compliment. He says though the
terrible Brolio "colle sue grosse mura e la sus
sue
forte torre
non mostri nessuna rovina" it nevertheless no longer causes a
shudder, - "Non sons le tronche teste dei nemici, e des vassalli
ribelli che da quelle mura pendons, ma ui si affacciano invece
vaghi e dilettose rame di fiori, e le pui' rieche vite di Toscana
le cingono. Che vale ora quell' antico dettato.
"Quando Brolio vuol broliare
Tutta Siena fa tremare!'"
I find these stories of Italian
peasant life l so attractive that I half begin to adopt the gardener's
views with regard to Carrie. He strongly recommended to her
the other day the study of Piedmontese, assured her it would be
a very nice accomplishment, tried to rouse her ambition by telling her
that Count de Brassier spoke it like a native, and ended by
offering to procure her a master in the village. C. weighed his arguments
very gravely with him, admitted their force, but told him that she had
already a great many lessons, and that perhaps for a while she had best
content herself with picking up what she could by ear.
Friday 24th April.
Mr Marsh went to Turin by the early train
and came back at 1 oclock bringing no news of special
interest except the debate in Parliament in which Father
Passaglia took a conspicuous part. The debate grew out
of another case of stealing Jewish children by priests,
and out of the late developments in Turin with regard
to the conduct of the chief Director of [illegible] the Ignorantelli P. Teoger,
a story too scandalous for belief if the flight of said director from
justice did not give countenance to it. If the people of Italy were
left to themselves to settle the question as to their own Church they
would settle it in a week to the entire satisfaction of the
truly enlightened of every country - but they must wait on the
good pleasure of France, or rather of her master. _ _ _
Mr Marsh had another long talk with his little friend the 'Capo
di Stazione at Candiolo, and came back full of zeal
to make a pilgrimage to Pio sasco, Barge, [illegible]
Pinerolo, La Tour etc, all of which the amiable Capo
paints in very attractive colors. In the course of his
confidential talk the young man bal confirmed the
unanimous report of the dependants of the Castle vis that
the unhappy Count Brassier de St Simon was the veriest
slave to his pretty somnambulist - that she ruled him most
despotically and sometimes even gave him blows in the
face so violent as to force him to keep himself shut
up for days. He told the capo he should leave Mme.
behind when he went to Constantinople but the little
vixen was otherwise minded and raised a storm that
brought the Count to reason. She went, with baby and nurse,
leaving the oldest child at a school not far from Pióbesi.
She also insisted on taking some other friends of hers in the capacity
of upper sevants [servants] & even to this her slave was obliged to submit.
And this man has a wife - of good character so far as I have heard -
living at Nice - and he prefers a degradation like this, to a quiet home.
The merits of this Madame the Somnambulist consist in having
'la faccia d'un angelo' with a good deal more of a 'diavolo' .-
Saturday April 25
Mr Marsh called me at six this morning to see how
splendidly clear the mountains were, and to climb the
Tower if I felt equal to it. I got up at once - Carrie
was ready with her huge key, and after a hard pull
I found myself at the top. The view was glorious
but to say the truth I was so tired, or rather so utterly
exhausted, that I could not much enjoy it. The stair-case
is too narrow to allow any one to carry me, or even to assist
me to any purpose, and I think it will be wiser for me
to wait for my wings before I try the experiment again,
How could any one help envying the birds that were dart-
ing without the least effort from this to the old church tower -
from turret to tree, from tree to turret. Mr Artoni came as
usual this evening but brought no news beyond the newspaper on dits.
The cheif [chief] topic at Turin
is
still the affair of the San Primitivo and
the papers are calling loudly for the suppression of the schools
and indeed of the whole order of the 'Ignorantelli' throughout
the kingdom. The king is expected at T. in a day or two.
Sunday April 26th
One of the finest mornings imaginable. We spent our
while time in the open air. The younger ones climed the tower
Mr Marsh & I contented ourselves with the such a view of
the great mountain-chain as we could get from the garden &
one could scarcely desire it to be grander.
The green, blue & yellow lizard.
We strolled down among the apple-trees now in fullest blossom and
their fragrance - to me the sweetest perfume nature yeilds - over -
came me with memories of childhood. Dr Holmes is right
when he says there is nothing in nature that can call forth
old associations like sm an odour. At three we drove
over to Baron Gautier's villa which is pretty and has a very
fine garden. The house is said to magnificently furnished
but the Baroness does not like the place and they are almost
never there. Their possessions here are an immense fortune
in themselves, but this
estate
is only an item in their vast wealth.
The country in now covered with grain & grass, the winter rye
will soon be ripe and the scythes are already hanging about in
the trees. But today it was difficult to see any thing but the Alps
so clear so dazzling. The mighty sweeps from the peak to the
base of Monte Viso - 13000 feet was as distinct before us as
snow and sunlight - cloudless mistless sunlight could
make it. And in fact all the chain from many degrees
north of Monte Rosa round west and south till
the
Alps met
the Apennines - but why try to write of such a scene.
At Candiolo we met a great procession in honor of St
Giuseppe - very orderly and respectable. The [illegible]
contadini every where saluted us with much respect and
I think are getting over the dread of the heretics, which
they felt at first. Mr Marsh, after his first walk through the village
said he was quite sure the inhabitants 'did not want this
man to reign over them' - now they seem quite reconciled to the
new lord of the castle.
After dinner all went again to the top of the tower except myself, who
was first comfortably seated in one of the garden-walks with Monte Viso
full before me. Here the gardeners wife with her baby Pinotta soon joined
me, and in had a nice long talk. The good creature told me of her father and
mother, her brothers and sisters, the dear little girl she had lost, &c &c. in a
manner so simple and so touching that I found my own eyes more full of tears as
she wiped away hers own with her apron. If I could tell her story as she
told it, I should feel very sure of the reputation of a thorough artist. And then
in her turn she asked me questions, of my parents, and my children, brothers,
sisters, &c. and when I answered, and told her how I had once left my parents
for five years when they were very very old, and yet found them living on my
return, and some other incidents connected therewith, she seemed so much
moved that I could not feel as if I was talking with an humble and igno-
rant dependant almost for the first time, but rather that I was speaking to
some sympathetic old friend of my childhood. She concluded her talk
with, "Ah! tante ricchezze, e nondimeno ci sono sempre dolori!" I
could not forbear a smile at her notions of our wealth which were as wide
of the mark as her conception of the distance from here to America. She
asked me if it was farther off than Pistoïa, and when I told her that
it was a great many days farther before we came to the water where we took
the vapore and that then we were many days without seeing any
land before we came to America, her condolence was unbounded. "Ah,
povera Signora! proverina, poverina! Dio Mio!" She was very curious
to know everything about Carrie - quella bella e brava - as she called
her. I was so sorry to lose a part of what she said from my ignorance
of this abominable Piedmontese dialect. - When we returned to the house
we found the evening papers jubilant with the announcement of the sup-
-pression of the San Primitivo. They also express much satisfaction at the
king's visit to Ricasoli in his Castle of Brolio. The Duchess who
has been ill at Naples is thought to be better.
Monday April 27th
Mr Marsh went to Turin early and returned at one,
bringing back papers and letters. The prospect of a war with England
is now not small; both nations talk loud, and ours at least is
thouroughly angry and with good cause. I still hope that the rulers
in England may fear the effects of a war so much as to induce them
to take a course which no moral considerations have hitherto been
strong enough to force them to take. Today we heard the first
nightingale sing of the season. After dinner Carrie took up some ivy
plants to the top of the tower in the hope of coaxing them to grow there,
but I am afraid we shall not reap the benefit of them in our day,
Tuesday 28th
Nothing to break in upon our busy quiet today - not even
the papers, for we did not send to town. Mr Marsh is reviewing his
mms for the last time, and I am trying to follow him for another
last time. Our garden furnishes a delightful resting-place between the
Acts of our long day. This morning we heard the cuckoo for the
first time this spring - her plaintive note chimes in delightfully
with the other sounds about us. We also caug caught another
glimpse of our beautiful lizard, and d saw a smaller one
apparently of the same species. As we sat on the terrace about sunset
the swallows flew so near to us that we might almost have touched them - beautiful
graceful creatures with their mantles of blue-black velvet lined with white satin. Oh
for their power of flight - for wings, wings!
Wednesday 29th. April.
The disappointments from Vicksburg and Charleston
completely poisoned our day, though we tried to keep about our usual
occupations. With all these failures against the rebels our Country seems
only to grow the more bold in expressing her resentment at the base
conduct of England, and the English Ministry of course grow more
impertinent. If we do not have war either England must back out
as we say, or I greatly mistake the temper of my countrymen. It
may be that a general European war will break out in time to pre-
-vent us from coming to blows with England. The Italians seem
rather to hope for such a war, they fancy that somehow or other
it will throw Rome and Venice into their hands. The papers
say that Baron Ricasoli has recently purchased a fine palace
in Rome and that the king is extensively repairing an
estate there which belongs to the House of Savoy. The people
who are easily encouraged fancy that these circumstances prove
that Rome will soon be in the possession of Victor Emmanuel,
but of course the last fact proves nothing, and the first, if it be
a fact, only shows that Ricasoli himself is still hopeful,
or that he thinks this a good way to begin to get a foothold
there. Thursday April 30th
We breakfasted early, and Mr Marsh
and Carrie with two of the servants went to Turin, leaving
me to get on by myself. On such occasions, comparing my eyes
with what they were from twenty four to forty four, I can see that
they have improved decidedly within that time. Instead of
being unable to take up a book for one moment without great
pain, I can now refer to different volumes, without steady
reading, often enough to answer questions that arise in my own
thoughts, - and so I can fill up the hours of solitude without
depending entirely upon the 'inner light.' The news Mr Marsh
brought home amounted to very little, - confirming however the
repulse at Charleston and the probable abandonment of the seige
of Vicksburg. There are also further developments of the history
of Gen. McClellan's campaign, which would add to his infamy
if it were not already past taking any deeper colour.
Friday May 1st.
Our May-day proved a dark and rainy one, but we
were too busy to sigh over it, though we had intended to have the va-
-riety of a drive towards evening, in which we were disappointed of course.
I was sorry to learn from Giacchino that a poor little fatherless girl of
twelve, employed by the gardener to take care of the cow, had been with it
in the field all day, notwithstanding the cold damp rain. G. found
it out from having sent for her to try to measure her on the sly, for
a chintz gown, which she needs sadly. Her father died last autumn
leaving the mother with no earthly possession except nine children
the oldest of which whom is now sixteen. They are said to be
good children, and the parents had a good name, nor has the
mother lost hers during this year of distress. Her poor neighbors
have done what they could for her, but they say that the family
suffered greatly during the winter in spite of the little they could
do for them
Saturday 2nd
The rain was heavy and constant until four
o'clock, and there being no temptations outside we were able
to accomplish a good deal within doors. Mr Artoni came not-
-withstanding the weather, and the post he brought looked more
pacific as to the relations between England and America, and on
the whole the war news from home was not so bad.
Sunday 3rd
When I I joined Mr Marsh in his cabinet this morning
I found him looking annoyed and perplexed. Mr Artoni had just
told him of Mrs De Zeyck's woefully embarrassed condition
and shown him a letter from De Zeyck himself, asking him
(Artoni) to aid her, but saying he had rather she would starve
than be indebted to Mr Marsh for anything. This last heroic
declaration was accompanied with every imaginable epithet of
abuse, and violent threats to do him every mischief in his
power hereafter. All this amiable manifestation comes from
Mr Marsh's having told him last summer, when he came all
the way from Taranto to get money of him, that he should
have written to him and not have made such an expensive
journey in his circumstances - that he did wrong to come to his
post with a large family taking the most expensive route
through England and France and staying for his pleasure
in London and Paris when he was so poorly provided with
money as to be obliged to borrow of the consul at Marseilles
for
the
means to finish his journey. He also told him that he had
himself no resources beyond his own salary, that he was exposed
constantly to similar and equally pressing requests, and that
it was utterly out of his power to furnish him the money he
desired. He however paid the expenses of De Zeyck's journey
and his hotel bill while in Turin where he stayed a fortnight,
living in style, and walking the streets
dressed
with an elegance which
my husband would certainly not feel that he could afford. It
was evident at the time that the fellow was angry at Mr Marsh
for not providing him with as many thousand francs as he
asked for, and that he was still more angry on account
of the advice given him to act with more prudence. Not
long after this we were not a little surprised to hear that
Mrs De Zeyck with four children had arrived in Turin
and was looking for an apartment for the winter. One of two
things was certain, either she had means of her own independent
of her husband, or she had no more discretion than he, and
would soon be starving or we must take care of her. The
latter is probably the case. Her situation has been going from
bad to worse, until Saturday she sent to Mr Artoni to say that she
had not [illegible] means to give her children bread the next
day. He sent her a Napoleon, and then brought her story to us.
And in this penniless condition she has is living in one of the
most expensive capitals in Europe, has three servants, with
masters for her children and medical attendants for herself.
Of course she cannot live without servants, but as she has no
means to pay them she can get only such as pilfer and steal
from her everything they can get. She tells the most extraor-
-dinary stories of the infidelity of those about her - I say extraor-
-dinary not because they are improbable so far as the servants
are concerned, but because it is almost incredible that a
woman of common sense could put herself so in their power, -
giving them money to pay bills without sending her own boy
with them, and without even asking for the receipt - taking
sending
silver
by them
to be pawned without in the least knowing where they would
go, and without even asking for a receipt for it from the pawn-
brokers, and innumerable other equally discrete performances.
Mr Marsh sent her two hundred and fifty francs - also a certif-
-icate to a banker that she was the person she professed to
be. I do not think there is any doubt but that she will
accept the money notwithstanding her husband's indignation.
By the way, I ought to state - to help my own memory hereafter,
which alone makes me record the story - that De Zeyck did re-
-pay the money Mr Marsh gave him last summer, not being
willing to be under obligations to such an inhuman monster.
As to the poor woman and her children, I cant for my life see
what's to be done. If she would go to her husband at Taranto
where everything is so cheap they might live simply on his salary,
if she will not do this she certainly should go to her friends
in America and not try to live here in such an expensive
way on the charity of those upon whom she has no claim
whatever, beyond that of common humanity. That she has
herself no [illegible] proper notions of her present position, or indeed
of what she has a right to expect from others, is evident
from what she says of an Italian gentleman who has furnished
her with three hundred francs with no security except her word,
and no doubt without the least expectation of being repaid. She
says: "I asked that gentleman for six hundred francs; he gave
me only three hundred, but said that though he could do no
more then, he would, perhaps, give me three hundred l more by
and bye, and now he does not keep his promise." ! What
is to be done with such a head? I shall try to see or send
to Mrs Tottenham, who has been to see her, and try to get her
to advise her to go back to her husband or to return to America
In case she will do this we would willingly do everything in
our power for her, but money given her now is only enabling
her to run deeper and deeper into debt, without doing the
least good except keeping her from present starvation.
In the afternoon we drove to Stupinigi - roads very bad.
Monday May 4th
Our first work this morning was to write to Miss
Arbesser from whom I had a long and affectionate letter Saturday
She has recovered from her homesickness, and is now infinitely
delighted with Naples and its surroundings. Even the people interest
her immensely, as they could not fail to do any one of her quick
artistic sense. The visit of the Duchess has certainly proved a
success. Her court has been one of almost more than royal
magnificence. The photograph Miss Arbesser sends of her little
princess in costume is not so pretty as the one she sent before
in morning dress. We were all rather dull today and
neither the manuscript nor the lessons advanced as well as usual.
Indeed we spent a considerable part of the morning in making
bouquets of buttercups and daisies, and notwithstanding my
proposal to fill some little baskets with these poor vulgar
blossoms was met with wondering scorn, yet the result was
pronounced very very pretty. Carrie crowned our cast of
the King with a wreath of her own manufacture, but
was a little startled when I told her the green she had
chosen was the cypress - what would be held a bad omen
here. Tuesday May 5th
Mr Marsh, who went to Turin early,
returned at one, though he had expected to be detained there all day.
Mr Artoni reports that Mrs De Zeyck obtained a thousand francs
from the banker through Mr Marsh's simple certificate that she
was the wife of a consul, but she took eagerly enough the two
hundred and fifty francs we sent her, and that too without even
offering to repay the Napoleon sent her on Saturday by Mr Artoni
to furnish her table for Sunday! Charity demands us to believe
that there is a monstrous deal of weakness here - or we are driven
to a still more unfavourable conclusion. Nothing of interest in
the papers, unless I except an article in the London Times, even
more overflowing
if possible, than usual
with 'envy, hatred, malice and all uncharitableness'
towards us Americans. A letter from Miss Blackwell with her
usual catalogue of disappointments and disasters. Poor child, if there is any such
thing as an unlucky star, it must have been high in the ascendant at the hour of her nativity.
Wednesday May 6th
The manuscript and other work made fair
progress today, as we had no interruption - not even the
post. Talking over this evening our quiet life for the last
two
few
months Mr Marsh and I both came to the conclusion
that in the course of our whole lives, either since those lives have
run together or before, we have never had a period so free from
interruption, so favourable to work. Thank Heaven, he has
eyes and strength to do it.
Thursday 7th
Most of our household went to Turin this morning.
They brought back an American post, with more encouraging
news than usual. The spirit of the people at the North seems
to show itself more and more determined to sacrifice everything
to the great and righteous cause. Oh! if we had but men
at the head of the government! Alexander brings home a
report of a grand row in the Piazza S. Carlo last night. It
seems Father Ambrogio was holding one of his street meetings
(Mr Artoni told us last Sunday that thousands gathered to hear him)
when a curate of the nearest church came out and ordered him
to cease preaching, and depart from the quarter. The sturdy Father
refused to obey, saying that when the proper authorities ordered him
away, he should go, but not sooner. Some grave persons in the
assembly advised the interfering priest to go home and let the
affair take its own course. Instead of doing so the priest at
once gave orders that the bells of his own church should be
rung, and also procured those of the neighboring churches to sound
the alarm. This of course doubled and trippled the crowd, but
to the amazement of the zealous Romanist no doubt, this
crowd took the side of the threatened Father Ambrogio, and
the meddler escaped maltreatment only with very great difficulty.
Father Ambrogio, after the priest had fled, distributed some
of his programms for a national church, and then told the
multitude that he was tired and could say no more to them
then, but God willing he would meet them again Friday evening
at the same place! Perhaps in time the government may learn
that the people are not so far behind them it as it fancies.
Friday May 8th
I have no variety in the even tenor of our
way to record today, We passed the morning as usual, then
strolled in the garden, gathered up the scattered birds, and re-
-stored them as far as we could to the disconsolate mammas,
and were finally driven into the house by the sound of a
coming temporale. C. and I then went up stairs intending
to do some serious work with our water-colours, but it was
difficult to see anything very distinctly between the blinding flashes
of one moment and the twilight of the next, so that our efforts
ended in an extemporary princess, with very red ribbons and
very red cheeks, who stood pointing at an object on a rock,
which I took to be a lantern, but which Carrie said was
in fact a crown. We came down rested if not greatly the
better artists.
Saturday May 9th
A thunder-storm worthy of a western prairie came upon
us about three and continued till after five. We supposed Mr
Artoni would not come of course, but he did, and reported perfectly
fine weather at Turin. The tôta gave the gardener's little cow-
-herd a pretty and stout chintz dress this evening. The poor child
had great difficulty in comprehending the nature of the miracle, and
seemed at first sadly frightened. Then at last the truth fairly dawned
upon her that she was actually the owner of the precious garment she
was overjoyed of course. All that drenching shower she had stood
exposed in the open field.
Sunday May 10th.
Mr Marsh was on his way to His Majesty before
I was up this morning. The audience was at half past ten,
and gave Mr Marsh time to return at one. The King received
him in his working-room, in which stood several tables piled
with books and papers. H.M. was in the plainest possible dress -
a frock-coat, a worn waistcoat, shirt-collar open and turned low
from the neck. His manner was, as usual, frank and cordial. He
talked freely of both American and Italian affairs, - spoke of
the great necessity of uncompromising measures on the part of our
government, of steady courage and firm dealing with the traitors.
Of course he passed no criticisms upon what had been done, but
it was quite evident that the honest king thought the honest pres-
-ident had dealt too timidly and too tenderly with the conspirators.
No one can look at the lion-like Victor Emmanuel without feeling
sure that his course would have been very different. I have
often said to Mr Marsh: i "I hope the king may never hear in
what manner Abraham Lincoln entered the Capital of the
great Nation that had chosen him to preside over it." Our royal
soldier would never after be able to conceal his contempt of the
President and his advisers. Speaking of the frigate lately launched
in New York for his Government, the King said: "I am glad it is
so nearly ready, I shall probably want it soon." He then spoke
of a general European war as a thing very possible, said that by
one lesson or another governments must be taught the great prin-
-ciples of the rights of individuals and of nationalities. To resist these
progressive tendencies was as impolitic and foolish as unjust.
He did not hesitate to declare Rome the fountain of all the brigandage
and all the disturbances that vex the Southern provinces, and
said it was only a question of time, the ultimate complete
union and pacification of Italy. He named directly neither
Pope nor Emperour. He spoke also of the party of action and
expressed his regret that they had injudiciously precipitated matters
that should have been left a little longer as they were. From politics
he passed to more personal matters, expressed his hope that Mr Marsh
would soon fix himself permanently in town, and enquired partic-
-ularly [illegible] about our summer residence. Mr Marsh told him we
had Count de Brassier's Castle of Piobesi - "Ah!" said he, with
a roll of the eyes peculiar to himself, and a half smile - "je
connais ça!" - which Mr Marsh translates - 'I know that
same!' It is a pity that this thoroughly strong-headed and
honest king should not have received a different moral training
in some respects, but I do not suppose that any of the religious teachers
of his youth, or any of the moral or religious counsellors of his
manhood ever dared to tell him that he was bound to obey God's
laws as perfectly as his subjects - in fact they do not themselves
hold him to be so. But in spite of the blots upon his life he is a
great-hearted king, and he has had a hard and laborious
anxious
life.
He himself said to Mr Marsh: "Quelle vie j'ai pas meneé
depuis '48." Mr Marsh found in the first antiroom at least a
hundred and fifty persons of all classes and ages, and of both sexes
waiting to see the king, and in the second antiroom, the ones one
next the kings apartment, there were some fifteen or twenty persons
of distinction waiting their turn. When these last had been received
the King probably went into the first antiroom himself, and inquired
of each what his petition might be. While waiting Mr Marsh had
a little talk with Count d 'Aglié about the American war. The
Count had swallowed large doses of the London Times, but, unlike an
Englishman, he was ready to hear and comprehend opposing statements.
This is on the whole the finest day we have had this season.
The air is delicious, the birds tumultuous. Carrie says the nightingales
sang all night last night but I did not hear them. We have spent
nearly the whole day in the garden and on the terrace.
Monday May 11th
We were so busy all day that it was not until
after dinner that I discovered how fine the day was - the air so soft
and delicious, and even till tea-time there was no perceptible chill
and we sat out later than we have been able to do before. The
birds are an unfailing source of interest to us, and it is wonderful
to find how many different notes, tones and intonations we learn to
distinguish in the same species of bird. I have no doubt their lan-
-guage is as perfect in its way as ours. It was really refreshing after having
written letters a large part of the day - letters full of the cares, the
anxieties, the sorrows of life, to sit down so quietly with nothing but
the calm of nature, or her entire harmonies, around us. I almost
forgot the griefs I had been trying to console, the fears I had been trying
to dispel, the indignation of which I had made a confession. I
doubt whether even the London Times could have stirred my pulse
during this hour we were on the terrace. Only this morning I felt
my face flush at the low insinuations cast upon Miss Dickenson,
to whom "our correspondent" dares not deny the gift of extraordinary
eloquence, and the charms of grace and beauty. She must have
uttered truths, and in a forcible way, too, that went to his conscience,
for he finds nothing to reply to her except to call her - "a scold" etc etc
Tuesday May 12th
If 'all work & no play' makes dull boys, we shall
soon all be boys and very dull ones at that. Mr M &
C. were up at 5 - we all breakfasted at 7 that Mr M might
go by the early train to Turin. He came back at twelve
and found C. & me just where he had left us - she being
swallowed up in her lessons, I in his Ms. Our only rest all
day was an hour after dinner on the terrace. But it does
not fatigue one to work when one is not distracted by visits.
Notice at corner of Corso del re Piazza Carlo Felice.
È vietato ai veicoli percorrese longitudinal -
mente il controviale. rather learned this, for
a warning to the common coachy.
Wednesday 13th April -
Our house-keeping machinery, which usually runs
as smooth and noiselessly as that of a fairy tale, has been jarred
a little by the illness of the laundress during the past two days.
At first it seemed I an attack of colic of not at all a severe
character. Gaetano had already assumed the functions of medicus
before I was told of her illness. He had given her oil very judiciously,
but when I went to her she complained that notwithstanding the
medicine she still felt a good deal of pain, and soreness at a particular
point, and wished for leeches. She had no fever then, was in a gentle
perspiration, and as she objected to a doctor it did not seem to me
necessary to urge it. I did not however advise her against the leeches
she had proposed, and thought they might do her good. Our cook,
who is her husband, said he understood perfectly how to put them on,
having done it many times. We all went to bed quietly, my maid
giving directions to be called if any thing went wrong. Soon after midnight
I heard a rap at her door - then some stirring about her room - and then
the door again opened and closed. With some difficulty I persuaded
Mr Marsh to let me go and see what was the matter, knowing that
I should produce less of a scare among the servants that his presence
would do. I knocked at Giacchino's door, and was answered
by a very faint voice from her. "Oh, please come in Madame if you can
a moment." I went in, found her as white as a piece of paper.
Whether just recovering from, or just passing into a fainting fit I did
not know. Alexander was bathing her with cologne water and greatly
agitated. The story was that Giacchino went to the door to see what
Carlo wanted, and while talking with him became suddenly
faint, fell, and was carried by him back to her bed. In the
meantime Alex. had comprehended from Carlo that he had not been
able to stop the bleeding from the leeches, that he had allowed six
to take hold at the same point and they had of course made quite a
severe wound; he had allowed this bleeding to go on for two or three
hours till poor Susanne began to faint. Alex. sent Carlo to Gaetano
and this was as far as matters had gone when I went in to Giacchino's
room. I asked if cob-webs had been tried, and found they had. I then
told Aleck as soon as the patient we had in hat hand had pretty
thoroughly revived under port-wine, to have a doctor sent for if there
was one in the village, if not to call in the apothecary. The medicus
however begged to be allowed to try an experiment, and if he could
not stop it in ten minutes my directions should be followed.
Within the ten minutes I had the satisfaction of hearing that he had
succeeded perfectly. Two applications of tinder from burnt linen
answered the purpose.
Thursday May 14th -
This morning the household is all a little the
worse for wear. Susanne is of course very weak and can hardly
tell whether her bad feelings are from loss of blood or from the fact
that her difficulties are not removed. Carlo is worn out by want of
sleep for three nights, and both Aleck and Giacchino are by no
means well. Gaetano makes no complaint. He has strength
enough to stand a good many such nights without being the worse
for it. To us he is an invaluable servant, and I often think that if
like Cavour, he had been born a Count, had had all the advantages
which such a position implies, he might have been scarcely less
important to his country. I have never before seen anything like
the power of intuition of this man. When I
wish to
give him an order
and my Italian is not fluent enough to explain myself without a
little hesitation, he says instantly. "Si, si, signora, capisco." and then
tells me what I want him to do, with a clearness, and an amount
of detail that astonishes me. "You wish me to say to __ con
molte complimenti" - here follows a string of graceful compliments
such as I could never have invented for myself, - and
then comes the precise message, exactly as I could have wished it,
and the only clue he had had to all this, was perhaps the name of the
person, and a knowledge of something that had previously passed between
us. Oftentimes when any of the Diplomatic Corps are ill, he goes
entirely of his own accord, invents the most proper messages for
us and then returns to tell us what he had done and the answer.
Many and many a neglect on
our
part he has covered in this way.
His defference and politeness to us is unbounded, but unfortunately
is is [sic] rough and coarse with the other servants and shows a harsh-
-ness sometimes towards his own inferiors that is very un-Italian.
He is a Gvenese
enoese,
but has far more of the characteristics of the Neopolitan
While we were enjoying
after dinner
the post in the garden, and still more
the delicious air, the singing of the nightingales, the swift glancing
of the swallows, and last, but not least, the grand mountains,
Alexander came out to announce Baron Gautier. This is the
first visitor except Mr Artoni that I have received for six weeks,
and I believe the only one who has been to the Castle, ex-
-cept a couple of Italian officers, and the poet Ferrara of Pióbesi.
We talked over the ordinary common-places for an hour, and then the
Baron took his leave to return to Turin. I fancy from his hesitation
about the B time of the Baroness's coming to Pióbesi, that she does
not intend to occupy their château here this summer. Poor thing! with
her habits it would he [be] a dull life for her, and yet she is far less dependant
than any other Italian woman of society whom I know.
May Friday 15th.
It is doing sad outrage to my youthful fancies to confess
that I wished most heartily last night for the power of hushing up
the nightingales for an hour or two at least. Fell Feeling a little
nervous, partly from pain, and partly from anxiety about Susanne, I
was rather disposed to be wakeful, and it really seemed as if
there were a combination among the nightingales not to cease for
one moment their clear, soft piping, or their delicious gushing warble.
Mr Marsh, who went to Turin early to see if it would be
necessary for him to go to Ancona to be present at the opening of the
railroad to Pescara, returned with the pleasant news that only
Prince Umberto was going and that he should not feel obliged
to go himself. This settled, and good reports being brought from
Susanne we all set quietly to work again, and the day passed as
usual without any interruption whatever. The evening was balmy
and musical, and the alternate voices of the owl and the nigh-
-tingale brought up very forcibly the old poem, and it was difficult
to restrain ones fancy from inventing a new dialogue. This reminds me
of the pity I felt for poor Baron Gautier who complained grievously
of the great number of birds around his château from which
he could not rid it - pas moyen, pas moyen de les chasser -
I confessed to the weakness of rather liking them. The gentleman
gave me an enquiring glance with very wide eyes, but made no reply.
May Saturday 16th -
Mr Artoni's arrival in the evening was our only interruption
except the visits made by some of us from time to time to poor
Susanne who does not much improve. Nothing of especial interest
from Turin. The evening papers contain a despatch from America
saying that a battle is going on between Hooker and Lee.
Sunday 17th
This morning the air feels very like summer, and we
found the shady garden walks altogether the pleasantest lounging
place. Susanne's illness however has rather turned our
domestic establishment sottosopra as Carrie expresses it, and
our day was a less quiet one than usual. Dr Monnet, who
came to see the patient at six this morning, reports her very ill,
but he hopes not dangerously so. He encourages us
with
the hope that
he shall find a house for us in Turin during the course of the
next two months.
Monday 18th.
Mr Marsh was at his work this morning
soon after four, but Carrie and I were on the semi-sick list,
and were obliged to pass an idle day. My little boudoir
became family headquarters - the first day it has really been
occupied since we camd
came
here. It was a pretty sight at sunset
to see the gardener, who had finished his day's work, sitting under
the old cloisters, with his baby in his arms and his older boy
at his knee while his wife was bustling in and out about
her chores so we should say. There is something so picturesque
about these people, under whatever circumstances one sees them.
When I look at these children, the oldest of which now little
more than seven already reads and writes, I cannot help earnestly
hoping that they may grow up more enlightened than their parents.
This very gardener, for instance, who seems kind and obliging,
refused to take the trouble to spread over his garden a quantity
of valuable material for enriching it though it was offered him
as a free gift. He said very likely he should not be employed here
another year, and he did not care to make the garden good for
those who were to come after him. It was in vain that he
was told that he would be more than twice repaid for his trouble
by the improvement of his own crops this very year. He was
inflexable. Another instance of his short-sightedness we have
had in his behaviour about some very nice seeds which Mr Marsh
gave him from the American Patent Office. Although it was
explained to him what they were, that they would prove a
great addition to his vegetables etc, he planted but a very
small quantity of what were given him, and these in a part
of the garden so completely shaded that there is not the least
chance that the plants will ever come to maturity. The motives
for this course were no doubt two. First, he did not believe that
anything could be better than what he had been accustomed
to cultivate and his father before him - the second he thought
that Mr Marsh would expect a portion of the products in return
for the seed. As it never entered our minds that he could
have this idea, we did not think to explain to him that we
would take the corn, beans, etc and pay him for them as for
anything else in the garden. This being understood he would
no doubt have cultivated them carefully. Such things prove
not only want of intilligence on the part of the poor, but
great want of liberality on the part of the rich.
Tuesday May 19th
Dr Monnet came out in the mid day train,
pronounced Susanne much better, took a cup of chocolate
with us, and had just time to allow the heavy shower to
pass over before it was necessary to go back to the station. We
all feel in better spirits at the good report about Susanne, and
I hope Carrie and I may both feel well enough tomorrow to
take up again at least a part of our regular occupations. Today
we have been just worthless enough to amuse ourselves with
a family of larks, another of sparrows, a third of magpies
and one poor, stray starling, - all of which have become a part
of our household. They can all fly a little except the larks
and they will soon be old enough to take to the wing.
Tonight we have a bad telegram from America - the
defeat of Sedgwick - but we hope it will not be so bad
when we know the whole. Our disasters seem endless.
Wedndesday 20th - May.
Alexander brought from Turin this morning a
hand-bill containing a notice of young Garibaldi's prowess
in Poland. I hope this may be soothing to his father, who
must be chafing at Caprera at the neglect with which he
is treated by our government as well as his own. The
tone of the papers towards France when speaking of her adventures
in Mexico proves that Italy rejoices that her ally has found her
attempt to interfere with us an expensive job, and likely to
bring forth only bitter fruits. The thunder-shower we had
here yesterday was a very ouragan in Turin where it burst
water-pipes and broke windows, and sent torrents through the
streets quite to the terror of the inhabitants.
Thursday 21st
Dr Monnet came out by the six A.M. train, pronounced
Susanne so well as to need no further attendance, and roused
all Mr Marsh's mountain enthusiasm by telling him of the
wonders of Monte Viso, the Traversette and Dauphigny in general.
It is amusing to see how he fires at the very thought of a glacier
and a lofty peak or pass. I thought the experiences of the last
two years with all the severe climbs accomplished, would
do something to abate his zeal, but they seem to have had
rather the contrary effect. The Dr. promises us a letter to the
"anciens" of Bobbio, which is to insure us good guides and
every attention the poor place can offer. I have had a hearty
laugh at Mr Marsh over the satisfaction he takes in this pro-
-spective service to be rendered by the Bobbians, and have tried
to moderate his expectations, by telling him that no great amount
of comfort was to be expected in a village where the whole house-
-hold expenses of a family of five amon amounted to scarcely
one hundred francs per annum. These one hundred francs
feed, clothe, shelter and warm the household. It will certainly
be very interesting to see how such people live, and to learn something
of them, but unluckily their want of a language makes this
last very difficult.
Friday 22nd May.
The grand division of the family went to Turin
this morning, leaving at headquarters only the invalids and
two of the able-bodied to take care of them. Mr Marsh returned at
one, the rest at six. Nothing of special interest in the way of
news. Mr Marsh made the acquaintance of Signor Moriundo,
one of the chief judges. He lives at Candiolo. In trying to pick
up information about the actual condition of the inhabitants of
this little village, for instance, he accounts are so contradictory
that one sometimes quite despairs of ever getting at anything like
the truth. Baron Gautier says that all the fertile plain around
the village for miles is owned by three or four proprietors, he
himself being one - that they do not lease it out at all, and
only hire the peasants to make the hay, and take care of the
other crops. The peasants, he says, live on what they earn in this way
as well as they can, but confesses that they are necessarily very poor,
as their wages are very low, and that they add to their little earnings when
they can by poaching on the King's hunting grounds of Stupiniggi
etc. etc. This agrees with the accounts given by the capo-
stazione. On the other hand our gardener declares that a great many
of the inhabitants of the village are small proprietors, that a great
many others have land in lease, and that it may always be
had by those who are industrious, and can command money
enough to pay the rent. Mr Marsh's habits will not allow him to
give up the pursuit of the truth in this matter, and I suppose he
will find it out in time, but the enquiring mind is often sadly
tossed about. I could not help smiling when he gave me after his
return an account of the conversation he had had with an English
or Scotch family on their way to Pignerole this morning. The lady
who was evidently a very intelligent and earnest woman was
also afflicted with this unreasonable desire of knowing something
about the country and the people where she was travelling. She asked
Mr Marsh many questions, especially about the religious feeling of
the community in this neighborhood, taking him for an Italian.
As she spoke the language very well, and had very dark hair
and eyes he also took her for a native of some part of the Peninsula,
and it was some time before they found out that their mother-tongue was
the same. The lady enquired what could best be done to
really aid the inhabitants of the valleys especially, to make
moral and physical improvement, and I hope she may leave
behind her some permanent marks of her wish to serve them.
Carrie spent the day with the Tottenhams, and from them learned
indirectly something of Tôta Pulszky's visit to Garibaldi. She
seems to have had a 'splendid time' as she calls it but the only
particular item of enjoyment reported is climbing by a ladder into
the hay-loft and dancing on the hay with Menotti and Ricciotto.
Menotti has led a very different dance since that day, if there
is any truth in handbills.
Saturday 23rd
The retreat of Hooker across the Rappahannoch
and the great victory claimed by the rebels came upon us last night
like a thunder-bolt. There had been a previous report of the retreat of
Sedgwick, but we still hoped Hooker's main division might be
strong enough to crush Lee. Our calamities seem infinite, and
I cannot help feeling that our government needs all this to bring
it up to more manly action on the slavery question. It has
been driven to do much, but it has not yet been brought to be
willing to employ thoroughly anti-slavery officers. When it does
that we shall have victories - I am afraid not till then. As
long as Gen Halleck directs military movements from Washington
so long I have little faith in any great triumph over rebeldom.
A heavy rain keeps Mr Artoni from us tonight.
Saturday 24th May.
This is our first Sunday entirely by ourselves since
we came to Starling Castle, and we all enjoyed it im-
-mensely. It is always pleasant to us to have Mr Artoni here,
but still I sometimes wish his one day in the week would
[illegible]
occasionally
come on other days than Sundays. This I dare say he
would like better too, but it does not seem practicable. We
read John Bunyan, which Mr Marsh always takes particular
pleasure in, then we read the Brownings a while, looked
a little at Buckle, ran over a few pages of Bacon, and
the day was done. There is something so pleasant, in these
days of surfeit of new books, in turning over the leaves of
volumes with which we have been familiar from our childhood
It is not merely the thoughts, the sentiments, the style, which
we admired then that give us so much pleasure now, but
the thousand chords of mysterious association that they touch
are so many new guarantees of our own immortal nature.
Monday. May 25th
Mr Marsh went to Turin by the 8.50 train to be pre-
-sent at the opening of the Parlament by the King. His Majesty
entered the Parlament chamber about eleven, accompanied by
the Prince Caragnano and a large suite. He was received by
the chamber with tumultuous applause. The Duchess of Genoa
accompanied by Princes Umberto and Amedeo occupied the
Court Tribune. The ladies of the Diplomatic Corps were not
in the Diplomatic Tribune with the Ministers themselves, and
were probably seated near the Duchess, though Mr Marsh did not
see them. The King's speech was received with the wildest en-
-thusiasm. (See left-hand page.) Mr Solvyns, talking to Mr
Marsh of an interview he had with the King in Florence says the
latter told him that he looked for a general war in Europe
which should put the finishing stroke to the edifice of Italian
unity, that things could not go on much longer as they
were now going on at Rome - that if they did he "would
resign his crown and offer himself as a volunteer in
the cause of the Federal Government!" This pleases
us very much, not because we suppose Victor Emmanuel
really contemplates offering his sword to President
Lincoln, but because, said to a Minister from another
Country, it is a new proof of the sincere interest he
takes in the final triumph of the American Republic.
I was glad Mr Marsh had an opportunity to talk
a little with Mr Solvyns, for the cheerful tone of the
latter helps him to look a little less despairingly upon
this late terrible failure of "fighting Joe Hooker."
Among the Diplomatic gossip are some statements about
the last days of poor Mr Tourte which are very painful.
When the physicians became alarmed about him his
sister in Geneva was telegraphed for. She came at once,
but hearing that her brother was nursed by a pretty Genoese,
(who was installed in the same house with him, and
who had been so for some months,) she, the sister, refused
to go to enter his rooms, or even the house, and the poor
man died without the consolation of seeing his sister,
and sending through her one parting message to his
afflicted old mother. Alas, for white robes, made of ma-
-terials to catch a stain so easily! Genoese or Genevan -
let God judge betwen them - not us - but I am grieved
when Christians do such unchristian deeds.
Tuesday May 26th
We were obliged to call in Dr. Monnet again
this morning for poor Susanne, whose maladie has re-
-turned upon her. He proposes, in case she is not better in a
day or two, to take her to the little Protestant hospital
(at Turin)
where he can see her more frequently, and where she can have the
benefit of a better nurse than can be had elsewhere. I do not
like the idea of sending a sick servant out of my house - a
thing we have never done even in cases of very protracted
illness - but this distance from a physician is a serious evil,
and if Susanne is satisfied with the plan I shall be glad
for the sake of the other servants who are getting restless
under the confusion her
sickness
necessarily makes in the house. / The
Dr. thinks he has found a house for us, and I hope it may
turn out so. The proprietor is Count Farcito, a real
man of honour upon whose word one may rely, and the
apartment is next to his own - Casa del Diavolo -. (This sounds
like a dangerous neighborhood, but Count Farcito himself
has certainly no marks of pitch about him, and perhaps
we may not suffer more than he seems to have done.
Our news from America is so bad in every sense that we
have not much heart to think about houses, or anything
else that looks like having an abiding city. One doesn't
know which most to admire - the dull honesty, the weakness
or the madness of our most unlucky President.
Wednesday May 27th
A very monotonous, but I hope not altogether un-
-profitable day. Mr Marsh and Carrie walked over to Baron
Gautier's just before dinner, the air being so very cool that
they did not find it too warm. Carrie came back with
glowing accounts of the nightingales and the crickets - the
trees being filled with the music of the former, and the
new-mown hay-fields with the latter.
Thursday May 28th
The Dr's visit was our only interruption today.
He brings further information about Count Farcito's apartment
and we shall
should
try to take measures to secure it at once if the
news from America were not so utterly disheartening. The
manuscript gets on famously so far as the amount of work
done each day is concerned - but the material to be used up
is always receiving new additions, and I am afraid we shall
not see the end of it before the end of June.
Friday, May 29th
Our American paper, the N.Y. Times, received
today, gives no countenance whatever to the idea that
McClellan is to be recalled to the command of the Potomac
army, nor does it speak of public affairs in the tone of
discouragement which the false English journals, and
the scarcely less false telegrams, would have led us to
expect. Neither are our letters from home-friends more de
-pressed than heretofore. There seems no disposition to give
up the Ship. After receiving the Post we returned to our
work with more courage - perhaps only to the stunned again
by a new telegram of fresh disasters.
Saturday May 30th
A close sultry day much like N.E. dog-days. Mr Artoni
did not come to us, so the Pinerolo trip was given up.
We worked till dinner, and after dinner sat on the terrace
and watched the swallows as they flew in dancing circles
around and above us. Who can help envying these happy
creatures. Then the trees were gay with the bright finches -
but for some reason or other the nightingales were silent.
As the twilight faded into the pale silver of the moon-light
the owls began their most melancholy cries, the human
sounds from the village died away, and when we were
ready to go to rest not a leaf stirred
was
stirring nor a living
thing giving forth its voice except the sad night-bird.
Sunday May 31st.
Dr. Monnet pronounced his patient once more on the
high road to recovery, and promises that she shall be as good as
new in eight days unless something very unexpected occurs. In the
course of the conversation the politics of Europe came up; and Mr
Marsh broke forth into one of those sudden and earthquake-like
explosions to which men of his usually self-restrained manner
are sometimes subject. I am always diverted by the effect
the eruption produces upon those who have never before seen
anything in him but the most profound calm. The Doctor
could not conceal his amazement nor his pleasure when my
husband gave his opinion of the English government and the
Prussian people. The course of the former he said, 'had
always been most basely selfish in all its dealings with
foreign nations' - that 'its hypocritical cant about philanthrophy
and christian principle was as shallow and transparent as it
was impudent.' Of the Prussian people - and of the Germans gen-
-erally he said that 'they lacked all true manhood', that 'they
were a set of miserable poly-theists who worshipped their coarse
aristocracy equally with their God,' and that 'they fully deserved
for their weakness in '48 to be treated as their King was now
treating them'. Dr Monnet who as far as he understands pol-
-itics at all is quite with us, was very unwilling to let the
subject drop, but after a few sentences Mr Marsh subsided
again into his ordinary calm, and I was much amused to
watch the Dr's vain efforts to rouse him once more. 'Twas
plain enough that he wanted to get more to carry away, but
the hurricane had gone by.
Monday June 1st
Carrie went to Turin to bring home Madeline
Tottenham. It is so vexatious to the fettered by the intolerable
convenances of European life. In America Carrie could have
gone down in the train by herself and brought back her little friend
without further circumstances. Here it was not enough that our
footman was obliged to go down for Mr Marsh and could accom-
pany her, but I must send my maid besides. Sometimes I
am tempted to defy this nonsense altogether, but when I re-
member that the freedom of our young girls could not exist
in a country where the young men were not brought up
to respect that freedom, my judgment shows me that I
must yield to public sentiment. My eyes held out for
a two hours examination of manuscript; the rest of the day
was good for nothing for me, of course. We had specially
interesting letters from America today on political subjects.
One from Mr Norton - another from Mr Homes.
Tuesday June 2nd
Mr Marsh went to town this afternoon to dine at
the French Minister's. The Diplomatic Corps generally were
present. Several persons con belonging to the Ministry - as Menabrea
Peruzzi &c. and the Mesdames. Mr Marsh took out the
Countess Alfieri. The dinner passed agreeably. There was
considerable aside-chuckling over the success of the opposition
in the Paris elections. Everybody seems to think the emperor
in a critical position, and the last news from Mexico will
not tend to soothe him. Mr Marsh passed an hour with
Dr. and Mrs Doremus after dinner, He was charmed
with the latter. Dr Doremus is here on some business con-
-nected with his powder invention. I am sorry we are
not in town, and in a situation to show them some attention.
This post brought a letter from Mr Stillman at Rome contain-
-ing statements which, if there is no mistake about them,
ought to send certain of our representatives in Italy back to their
our country in disgrace. It is really humiliating to see
what an influence flattery and fashion can exercise over
some of our people. That Mr Blatchford, with his previous
connection with Archbishop Hughes, and with his utter
ignorance of Italian politics and Italian history, should
be befooled by the misrepresentations of an interested
and cunning banker, and by the cajoling of an
aristocratic priesthood, does not surprise me. But
Mrs Blatchford, with a head stronger than her husband's
and far more enlightened - I hoped better things of her.
We shall still try to believe that the rumors that have
reached us from Florence of Mr Laurence's sympathy
with the cause of the fallen Grand Duke, are incorrect,
but oh, that we could have men of knowledge and brains
and principle to represent us in Europe, especially in such a
time as this! Poor Italy in this her desperate struggle
to cast off the chains and draw out the iron that has
pierced her soul for so many ages,
- that she
should have the influence
of the land of Washington against her!
Wednesday 3rd.
There was nothing to mark the day of any
particular variety, and we pursued our weary way as cheerfully
as we might through some portion of the ever increasing pile
of manuscript. Mr Marsh gets so desperate sometimes that
I am almost afraid of his committing a libricide in some
moment of more than usual fatigue.
Thursday June 4th
After our usual day's work we turned
over a pile of Washington papers of dates from the 10th
to the 19th. There were certainly some encouraging things
but we felt greatly saddened to find so many names of old
acquaintances in the list of sufferers in some form or other from
this black rebellion. I will not say God reward the projec-
-tors and abettors of it as they deserve for this would bring
upon them too fearful a judgment. While we were reading
Carrie and her little friend went out with Giacchino
to see the Corpus Domini procession. They describe it as a
pretty sight - there being something of distinctive costume
still left in these little villages. The syndic's daugh-
ter especially was very gay in silk and gold beads, but
even she was outshone by a girl who had received
a legacy of a couple thousand francs or so from a master
or mistress whom she had served. Silk and gold
beads seem to be the objects of special ambition, and
these two enviable damsels wore several strings of
the latter of very large size almost covering the bosom
from the neck to the waist. Our little Maria invited
the young ladies into her father's house, showed them
her silk-worms, her little flower and vegetable garden,
and finally insisted on their taking wine with the
family. This was done with a very ceremonious hob-a-nob,
after which the girls came home. I am very much
pleased to have Carrie get an opportunity now and
then to see something of the inside of peasant life here,
and now that she can speak with them easily she will
be able to get a good deal of information about their
modes of life and thought. The silk-worm disease is
committing dreadful ravages everywhere in Piedmont.
It is really sad that these poor creatures should work so
hard and lose all their labour at the last moment.
Our little Maria is a degree above most of her class.
She can read and write, and says her father would
have liked that she should learn a great deal more,
but the priests would not let her. 'They always put
her back to the beginning of the same book when
she had finished it, and would never let her learn
anything else.'
Friday 5th
The morning went as usual - manuscript work,
and
then
post, then a little lounging, and then dinner. Just before
dinner I took up Emerson's Threnody, and it never struck me as
so beautiful before. In imagery and thought both it is exquisite,
and I only wonder that the poet should fancy that the consoling
thoughts suggested
in
it are 'beyond the reach of Bible etc'. I am
afraid he has not yet learned all the wisdom of that book.
Saturday June 6th
Sad news from home again - John's dear little Charlie
gone - but I must try to keep in part my resolution not to write of private griefs
such are not likely to be forgotten - need no paper record. Nor
did the sad news come alone - with it came also the
tidings of Alex's release and safe arrival home. May
he not have escaped a prison to die on a battle field.
Sunday June 7th
Carrie went home with Madeline this
morning to spend two or three days during the Festa. Oh this long,
long wearying illness of mine has its compensations. I am not
forced to participate in gaieties from which my heart is
now so far. Mr Marsh & I had a [illegible]
very
quiet day by
ourselves, most of the servants even have gone to town for the
Statuto Festa.
Monday June 8th
Mr Marsh brought back from town this morning
his usual political Job's post. Instead of the details of the
"grandi successi" obtained by Grant on the Mississippi, we have
a telegram announcing his complete defeat before Vicksburg
with a loss of five thousand men. This telegram comes through
our enemies and there is, no doubt, much exaggeration
about it, but at any rate it does not look much like
a great success. It is also stated that Lee is crossing
the Rappahannock to attack Maryland & Pennsylvania.
If he would take Washington, and with it some of the
imbeciles who control affairs there and keep them
and their more guilty associates who know better but who
basely sacrifice the blood & treasure of their country to their
own hopes of being raised to greater power - if Lee would take
these & keep them or hang them out of the way of better
men, there might still be a hope of saving our country
so as by fire - It has often been asked which does the most mischief
a knave or a fool - who dares answer?
Tuesday June 9th.
Carrie came back from town at 1/2 past 5 P.M. bringing with her
Miss Arbesser & Mr de Bunsen. The former I was quite prepared for as
a guest for the night, but the latter I had supposed would return
by the eight evening train. He however did not know there was
such a train and when one lives in a castle one has
plenty of house-room, so we were most happy to have him
stay also. Miss Arbesser seemed delighted to with our country-
home and the still Leben we are enjoying here. "I felt
the repose of the whole house before I had been in it five
minutes," she said. "How do you and Mr M. manage to pervade
every thing about you with such a calm!" Poor, dear girl!
She certainly knows little quiet now. A few hours every day she is
with her princess alone, but every evening
from 6 to 8
she must drive with
her pour la faire voir, and when H.R.
H.
is in bed at nine
she must go to some rèunion or something of the sort, and
as she says herself, 'auf dieser Weise man verliert sich
sich selbst.' Most of all she complains of the petty court-
intrigues, of the mutual distrust and dislike which exists every-
where among all connected with the court, and the general
want of all liberality of feeling among the Piedmontese
aristocracy. She insists that the arrogance of the Pied-
montese towards the Neapolitans is incredible & intolerable
at Naples, and that the Neapolitans in their turn hate
them almost to frensy. She does not think there is the
least change for Frances again in Naples - thinks the
visit
of
the Duchess & her children has done muct [much] to increase
the feeling of loyalty to the house of Savoy, but that things are
far from promising there. She is charmed with the [illegible]
culture & talent she found there - so much more intellectual
activity than at Turin, so much more real emancipation.
The Piedmontese in the suite of the Duchess would not even
admit the great natural beauty about N. and were con-
tinually fretting to get back - not to their own beautiful mountains,
few of them seem to know they have any - but to their own
narrow circle of associations & habits. Even The Duchess
herself at first looked scornfully on all she saw, but even a
royal education has not been able to stultify her, and
she could not fail at last to grow warm with admiration.
Then she tried to please, her lovely children were powerful
aids, the people took to her and she left, seeing every thing
[illegible] couleur de rose. I asked Miss Arbesser if she could
learn anything really trustworthy at Naples with regard
to the character of the ex-queen. She said that it was next
to impossible to find out the real truth. She was satisfied
however of one thing - that whatever might be her character
now, she came to the Neapolitan court a beautiful, high-
-spirited, high souled young creature, hoping to be happy
herself, and believing she should make a great many
others so. What that court, a stultified husband and her
misfortunes had made her she would not venture to
say. The universal testimony of Naples sustains the good character
usually given to Marie Christine of Savoy the mother of the
unfortunate Francis. She was truly good in spite of her
bigotry, but Marie Thérèse, who on the deth death of the
former became the step-mother of Francis, had more than
her bigotry with none of her virtues. She seems to have
exerted herself to the utmost to extinguish the little spark
of intellect which the future heir possessed. I was surprised
to hear Miss Arbesser speak with such severity of a princess of
the House of Austria, but she did not spare her. She
mentioned the fact that the palace at Naples is still full of
rich objects, the private property of the Bourbons - family
miniatures set in diamonds, splendid bridal presents,
&c &c, and regrets that they are not sent to the banished family.
In this I think she is right, provided it is certain that the
diamonds would not soon be used to fit out fresh swarms
of brigands. Miss A_. told many curious things
about the preparation of the young princess Marguerite for her
first communion, which she received last sunday. She
could not restrain her expressions of indignation at the conduct
of Madam Marguerite's [illegible] confessor. She says the poor
child was at times in an agony of fear, not at the
idea of any actual moral wrong of which she had been
guilty, but about some most ridiculous scrupule that
the Jesuit had put into her head. For instance she
said she was afraid she did not understand all that
the confessor said, and that she was afraid she might go
to the Communion with some dreadful sin upon her of
which she was ignorant. "Can you tell me, dear Miss Ar-
-besser what he meant by asking me if I kept on my
chemise when I bathed. Could it be a sin if I did or
did not?" Miss Arbesser was enraged, and went to
the Duchess who was no less furious, but what was to be
done? To complain of the priest was to betray the confidence
of the child, and so lose all chance of continuing to learn
the truth from her, and so being able to counteract the
poison of this accursed confession. Little Prince Thomas,
who is only nine years old, told his sister some time ago
when she was but eleven, that Monsieur L'abbé (his
confessor) had explained to him why it was very improper
that she should wear a dress that left her neck and arms
uncovered, and he hoped she would not do so any more.
This is Jesuit dealing with children in the nineteenth century,
and in the last half of it, too! Our conversation was
aside when Miss A__. told me these things, but she
gave me to understand that she had much more to tell
of their instructions to the Prince and Princess, and I
think she means someday to make use of the information
her position has enabled her to acquire. I was sorry
to learn that in the midst of Prince Umberto's triumph
in Milano he was led by the ill advice of his former
governor to do a most un-princely thing. He had sent
a message to Duke Litta that he would come and
breakfast with him at his villa on a certain day. The
duke prepared a magnificent colazione, decorated his
grounds etc at an expense of 40000 francs. In the mean-
-time the Prince was told that the wife of the duke
was the comtesse de Montfort of Paris, a lady whose
reputation had suffered much before her marriage. There-
-upon the former gouverneur went directly to the Duke
and enquired if the Duchess would appear at the colazione.
The Duke replied: "Assurément, l'hôtesse n'y manquera
pas." "Then" said the gentleman, "I am sorry to say
His Royal Highness will find himself under the necessity
of declining to honour your feast with his presence."
"Very well," said the Duke, "but with or without
the Prince I shall be always Duke Litta, and my
wife the Duchess Litta. When the King heard of the
circumstance he was as angry as he ever allows himself to
be, removed instantly the former gouveneur from his
present position (which I do not precisely know) about
the Prince, and asked 'why, if there was any thing in the social
relations of the Duchess in Milan that made it unadvisable
for the Prince to go there, it it was not discovered before
the proposal to go there was made. But even if it had
become necessary afterward to stay away to avoid disagreeable
complication, why was not he, the king, advised in
order that he might have summoned the prince to Turin
on some affair of business and so saved the Duke and
Duchess a positive insult!' While we were gossiping
of the Court Mr de Bunsen was not idle, and I fancy
if Mr Marsh kept a record as full as I have this time it
would be found that a man can talk as fast as a woman.
I [illegible] caught a few things while Miss A__. was taking breath.
Among other scraps this. De Bunsen, the father made the
acquaintance of William B. Astor many years ago when
they were both young. They set out in company to travel together
as far as Rome. Mr Astor soon associated to himself other
companions who did not suit the taste of De Bunsen. He
remonstrated, Astor would not yield the point, and they
parted in wrath. Many a long year after when they were
both comparatively old men, Mr Astor being in Europe went
to see the Chevalier de Bunsen. They dined, walked and
talked together, no allusion being made to the past. After
Mr Astor left Mr de Bunsen received a note from him
inclosing a draft on his Banker for 50,000 francs - a
christmas gift to the daughters of the great scholar. I was
very glad to hear this, and wish for Mr Astor's sake he would
do such things oftener.
Wednesday 10th
Our guests retired late last night, with their
heads full of the wonderful experiences of De Brassier here, and
of his circle, and I really believe Miss Arbesser was relieved
when she found she was not to sleep on the side of the
house nearest the old tower. Poor de Brassier! It is mel-
-ancholy to hear the tales they tell of the manner in which
he is imposed upon by the false beauty into whose hands he
has unluckily fallen. De Bunsen gave such a history of the
poor Count's terror when he found that etiquette obliged
him to be one of the pall-bearers at the funeral of his collegue
Lannoy as would be really ludicrous if any thing could
be ludicrous connected with death on the one hand and a
wild fear of it on the other. But I must not go back to my
gossip. It was arranged that Mr de Bunsen and Miss A__.
were to return in the carriage as they came, leaving at six,
taking only a cup of coffee before setting out. Carrie went
to Miss Arbesser soon after five, but the bird was flown.
She had been for more than an hour wandering about the
garden and the meadows, enjoying this
one
only day of liberty, or
rather half day, which she has had for nearly two years,
and for all this confinement, and
for
all this care she receives
only 2,000 francs a year. What should we say to this in
America. I have no doubt she sometimes receives handsome
presents, as for instance from the king when she was going to
Naples, but she told me frankly that she was obliged to send
to her father for money. She says she very seldom sees the
King, but the better she understands the royal family the
more highly she prizes his good sense, his good faith, and
his great heart, neither of which virtues have the Jesuits been
able to extinguish in him, though they have succeeded in leading
him in to gross vice. By the way a letter was received
by the family on Monday from the Queen of Portugal written
apparently in the expansion of her heart. She says she is
so happy, so happy. Her handsome young husband is very
much devoted to her, she is very little fettered by etiquette,
and I have no doubt is very happy. In fact the daughters
of the House of Savoy rank high among the virtuous prin-
-cesses of Europe, and Princess Clotilda and Marie have
been fortunate in finding husbands to appreciate their goodness.
Who would have thought that Prince Napoleon would
treat his wife with an affectionate tenderness that should
make her the envy of most of the
her
royal sisters.
When we sat down to the breakfast table at nine all
quiet by ourselves as usual the visit and the gossip and the
earnest talk and all, seemed to me quite like a dream.
In fact during the hour or two that I slept I was in fancy
in Turin, and the Arconatis'a, the Colegna's, the Littas,
the King, the princes, the princesses, Naples, the Bourbons,
Garibaldi, - everything was all
so
jumbled together that
it was not strange that all alike should have seemed
a dream. Among the interesting things we talked of last
evening were the remarkable discoveries lately made by Mr.
de Bunsen's brother-in-law, Mr Wadrington, in the region
east of Damascus - a great number of christian villages aban-
-doned for many many centuries, but still in a state of fine
preservation. The number of inscriptions - and to these
the traveller devotes himself exclusively, - is very large and
very curious. I infer, though he did not say so, that the
Christians were dislodged from these villages by the Mahomedans
and that the country has since been left entirely desolate.
In some districts however there must be a small christian
population still, as Mr Wadrington states that he saw
a religious service celebrated in a church that was built in
the 4th century. His narrative will no doubt be of the highest
interest. This reminds me that our King has just sent a
medal to Speake [Speke] and Grant for their late discoveries in
Africa. The very elegant Egyptian pasha - who after making
very earnest enquiries about the rivers of our country, and being
told
of the length and breath of the Mississippi, said with
great gravity - "Ah, no doubt that great river is in some
way connected with our Nile", - will now have to give
up that point as Messers Speake and Grant have proved
to the contrary.
Thursday June 11th.
We fell back into the old hard-working way
today. The weather is rainy and cold - one does not often
see a more autumn-like day even in a New England June.
This evening we had the N.Y. Times containing an account of
the capture of Vicksburg - contradicted alas, by later
telegrams. Our home-letters full of anxieties and tears. 'Would
to God we were in our own Country,' we often say and as
often add, 'but no doubt it is best as it is.' Miss
Blackwell writes that she will be here early next week.
When she is in a house she leaves little time for its
inmates to think their own thoughts, and perhaps it will be
well for us to be thoroughly stirred up for a little while, though
I must try to protect Mr Marsh in his sanctum. I dont know
what she'll find to write about here to enlighten
enliven
her newspaper
letters. We can give her some information about the rural
economy of Piobesi, can give her an opportunity to study
natural history in our menagery, which offers very numerous
specimens of the winged world, and some quadrupeds. She may
learn that it is the manner of the Piobesans to take the young
chickens from their mamma as soon as they are hatched, and
by placing fresh eggs under the hen cheat her into another
patient brooding of weeks, then repeat the theft, again sub-
stituting fresh eggs, until the poor creature is completely
wasted away, when they leave her to bring up her last brood
herself if she has life enough left to do it. In the meantime
the young ones are sold two sous apiece to such as may choose to
by and give their own time to the little hatchlings. It is said that
one of our old Vermont governors once told his wife by way of comfort
that 'a hen's time wasn't worth much', but it seems that a Piobesan
values his own at still less. We have a brood of these poor little
shivering creatures which Alex took out of pity, and which must be
wrapped every night in cotton-wool, and are as much care as a farmer's baby.
Friday 12 June. 1863.
The weather which for the last month has been
very unsettled has I hope reached its climax of illnature today.
It began raining about eleven with a cold north east wind which
soon brought the thermometer from 64 to 56 Fahr. - thunder,
lightning and wind continued for several hours, and at evening it
seemed almost cold enough for a frost. No event of interest except
an accident to my knee which threatens to add lameness for some
time to my other infirmities. Carrie and I find consolation however
in the prospect of t going to Cairo in search of our one-eyed Suleiman
who has such extraordinary gifts in healing sprains.
Saturday June 13th
After an unsuccessful attempt to stand this morning
I concluded to resign myself to remaining in bed for the day, had Chapter
III of the manuscript brought to me, and spent some hours in un-paging and paging
it. As the dinner hour drew near I made one more experiment to see if
I could get out to be at the table with Mr Clay and Mr Artoni whom we
were expecting. To my astonishment I found every trace of the lameness gone
and my knee as good as new - without having been to Cairo either. We
had a pleasant time at dinner, Mr Clay told us something of his excursion
for the last two months, and Mr Artoni seemed also in very good spirits.
In the evening he continued the De Zyck [Zeyck] narrative. That witch of a
woman by interesting a kind hearted Hungarian lady in her favour, has man-
-aged to get another thirty francs out of Mr Artoni. I am indignant that
this thing should go on. The foolish woman sent a considerable part of the
1250 francs with which she was furnished three weeks ago, to her worthless husband
and now she is literally begging from everyone with whom she has ever had
the slightest relations, even of the man who sold her wood last winter!
And yet she will not hear of going to a less expensive place, declares that Turin is
nearer Taranto than Naples, that she has made both journeys, and doesn't care what
the maps say. Also that she knows that it costs more to live at Taranto than Turin
having tried both! She says she doesn't want anybody's sympathy, though she
should like to be furnished with a little more money. All this she said to the
Hungarian lady who had just brought her the thirty francs from Mr Artoni, and who
was remonstrating with her against her remaining any longer in her present position.
The Hungarian told her that she too had known extreme poverty, that even now she
had not been able to give her these thirty francs without asking a friend for it,
a thing she certainly would not have done for herself, - "but," she added, "when one sees
that a position of this kind is becoming permanent, has already lasted for months without
any prospect of improvement, one must rouse one's self to some new effort, either return
to friends who can give assistance, or put one's self in circumstances where the expense
will be less, and the possibility of earning something be greater. My husband preferred to
sweep the streets of London rather than to ask charity for his family or suffer me to
ask it. We were able even there to keep ourselves independent, then we went to your
Country where we did well, were kindly treated, had an opportunity to earn a comfortably
living, became American citizens, and now my heart warms towards every American, - but I
must speak plainly and frankly with you." And to this appeal she received the above replies.