Volume 12

Volume 12 tranScriptorium TRP document creator: chris.burns@uvm.edu

From November 1st 1863 To December 31st 1863

November 1st 1863 We drove through the principal street of Pióbesi with its gazing and greeting occupants about 4 o' clock this yesterday afternoon & were welcomed by at the castle-door by our whole household including Carlo with his arm in a sling. He looks pale but is now quite free from fever and makes good use of his right hand as our dinner proved The poor fellow had the narrouest escape with his life, his face having been severely singed, his hat blown half a cross the garden, and fragments of the gun being hurled in every direction. The Dr says he will not lose even a finger. Every thing else has moved on prosperously. Our poor sick girl has been carried safely to the Hospital & is said to be im proving. Alex. also says that the mad Marchese prom- ises the Casa d'Angennes for next thursday the 5th Nov. [illegible] We were so happy to be quietly at home once more and to have found no bad news in store for us. Our letters from home-friends were as cheerful as we could have looked for. But we found so much writing waiting for us. The sister of our poor hospital patient came to us quite overcome by her gratitude. "I have no words! I have no words!" said the good creature, "but my sister will get well! she will get well!" I have tried to save the family from disappointment by telling them we did not expect her to get entirely well, only to be made more comfortable. Nov. 2nd Monday. While Mr Marsh was Turin to-day - Carrie having gone there also to make some combinations about her friend Miss Tottenham's wedding. I received the syndic, Lord mayor as A. calls him, of Pióbesi. He came to welcome us back and brought an offering of choice fruits and

flowers. While talking with him & thanking him I could help wishing our good N. E. farmers, artisans etc would add to their other many virtues this one of courtesy which gives such a charm to the common life of Italy. Mr Marsh came back with Dr Monnet who is now regarded with great admiration by the Piòbesans I was surprised to learn from the Dr. that he thinks so favourably of the case of our protegèe - he says she will be nearly if not quite cured - that he saw her eat nearly half a kilo of meat at once - that in fine she is "bien decidèe à de se guerie". Our door was thronged with people trying to get an opportunity to speak to the Dr. Tuesday Nov 3d. I went to Turin with Mr M. this morn. expressly to see Mme Sartiges who, [illegible] we heard, was to go with her husband & family to Paris before going to Rome. To my satisfaction I found she is not to leave for a week & I may hope to see her once more in the Casa d'Angennes if our perverse landlady does not play us some new trick. Mrs Sartiges is simple & unaffected in manner & I am truly sorry they are going away. It would be very pleasant to have two of my country women in the D. corps, and Mrs S. seems a true patriot & declares Mr S. is most friendly to the cause of our Gov. We left C. with the Tottenhams to help about the wedding prep. and returned at mid-day. The Baroness passed the evening with us, brought a beautiful bouquet and was as lovely as ever.

Wednesday 4th We We began to take up carpets and make ourselves uncom- -fortable today as the Dame d'Angennes still perseveres in saying the inventory may be taken tomorrow & that we may take possession at once. Alick sent especially to enquire for fear she might have changed her mind and that he might make a trip to Turin for nothing. A note was brought from the Baroness to Carrie today with the largest and most beautiful bouquet of flowers I have ever seen. It was sent from Genoa to the Baroness de Gautier whose fête it is today; and she was kind enough to transfer it to our C. who bears the same christian name. The bouquet was so large that we could not pass it through the door which freely admits our crinoline, and we were obliged to open another leaf! Thursday 5th A. returned from Turin tonight bringing back Carrie but in a high state of indignation against the Ghirardi who really seems determined to try our patience beyond human en- -durance. When he presented himself before her this morning she exclaimed - "Ma perchè siete venuto? Io non sono pronta! Mi bisogna la cucina ancor due giorni o di fini." A. said "but Madam, I came at your orders to take the inventory. Even yesterday you told our messenger you would be quite ready." "Ah, Dio mio, si! Ma non sono pronta, vi dico, E poi - e poi - ah, bisogna che io abbia fatto qualche gran peccato in questo mondo per essere cosi tormentata!" She then went on to rail about her workmen and I have no doubt she has had trouble enough with them - and they not less with her - and declared they had driven her mad and that she should start for Sinigalia tomorrow without fail. Qu'elle s'en aille vite! So here we are again. The witch

wont hear of the inventory till Sunday and we must make the most of our bare brick floors in the meantime. We might be pardoned for wishing that the mason who chased this woman with his trowel the other day had laid her up long enough for us to get settled. The Baroness again spent the evening with us, and condoled us in our vexations. She says all Turin is talking about the way we have been treated from first to last & would wonder at our patience if it were not well known how next to impossible it is to get a house on any terms. Indeed we would renounce our bargain with M. Ghirardi at once if we could do anything else, but we cannot afford to pay 30,000 frs per annum. as it is said the Elliots do. By the way, the English papers are still quarrelling about the facts as to Sir James Hudson's recall, but I think few persons doubt, not- withstanding Lord Russel's solemn & most emphatic denial, that he was made to feel by the latter that his resignation was expected. The king is to leave for Naples on saturday. Mr Marsh would go if possible, but does not see how he can, Clay will go at any rate. Friday Nov. 6th Gaetano brought from Turin this morning a letter from the Contino, saying that his mad mother had gone to Senigallia & had left him 'entierement libre' to do as he liked about the house. He tells us we may have it at once, so to-morrow we begin to send all boxes. What a relief! May the old proverd [proverb] about the 3 days hoar-frost fail this time - we should be sadly put out by a rain in the morning or worse yet by its overtaking our boxes on their way.

Saturday Nov. 7th Two cart-loads of books etc were started for Turin this morning & A. & G. went down in our Piòbesi establishment to receive them at the Casa d'Angennes. They returned in the evening bringing as good a report as we could expect. Young Gherardi d'Angennes was very amiable and really seems to be trying to attone for his mother's vexatious behaviour. The day has been a fine specimen of Indian summer weather. Some packing & more work for the wedding took up the whole day for C. & Myself. Sunday Nov 8th It is so bright and sunny, so calm & so quiet here to-day that we shall feel doubly sad to exchange all to-morrow for the shade the noise and the hurry of the town. I thought when we left Pegli last spring that we could never hope for another period in our lives so quiet as we had enjoyed there - and our summer has been even more so. Now it seems to me as if we were about to enter the busy world to find little repose from it again until our life-work is ended - may this im- pression prove as mistaken a one as did the former. Monday Nov. 9th After an early breakfast, & a hurried one at that we left the castle for Turin, servants, except Gaetano, staying behind to see to loading of last carts & shutting up. I left Mr M. at the Leg. & drove with C. towards the Tottenhams - met them on the way, found the wedding was actually to come off tomorrow - went back to Leg. & took up Mr M - all went together to Casa d'Angennes.

And here we are again after fifteen months once more in our first Italian home. It is improved in many respects but much of the elegant furniture has been almost ruined, many a splendid trifle broken & nearly all the show knicknacery that has escaped destruction has been confiscated by the Gherardi & has disappeared. The young Count came to ask if all was right and we were glad to be able to y say, 'yes'. We shall have much, very much to buy, but this was understood. As soon as Giachino came from P. I took her out with me to get a bridal present for Miss Tottenham - found a beautiful set of pale coral ear- rings & a brooch for sixty francs - took them, left notes with Madame Sartiges, returned, went over to Hotel Feder, all of us to dine, had tea at home & went to bed too tired to sleep. Tuesday Nov. 10th All progress in getting settled was put a stop to by the wedding. Both Giachino & Gaetano were given over to the service of the bridesmaid. The carriage took her off at ten and brought her back at 1/2 past 1. Bride said to have looked very lovely - every thing to have gone right. The E. Legation was filled with spectators - friends of course, but uninvited. The bride & groom leave for Genoa to-night. After C's return all hands were put to hard duty & we made advance in clearing out boxes etc but we shall be in confusion for a month. To-night when I went to bed Giachino told me of the joy my gift of blankets & other flannels had caused to poor Marianne's mother & the gardener's wife. She says she could hardly get away from them. I am really ashamed that the very little we could do, or rather did do, for the poor of Piòbesi, should have been so noised abroad. Had we practiced a little more self denial we might have really done something more effectual, but we indulged ourselves in our journeys & when the autumn came, the salary was gone - and yet they are so grateful for the little - may Heaven forgive us that it was no more!

Wednesday Nov. 11th. Wardrobes, writing-desks, tables, chairs, pictures &c have been travelling about the house in the livliest way all the morn- ing - some cases of collision, but no serious catastrophe. Mrs Sartiges came in to say goodbye - not less in a hurry than ourselves as she leaves town tomorrow morning. I am sorry, though it must be admitted the grief of the Turinese is not great at the departure of the count. There is a new story in circulation about his meanness which has gone as far as England and come back again in the E-journals - that he refused to pay for the injury done to a carriage by collision, and applied appealed to the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The Minister said he had nothing to do with it and referred him to the prefet. The prefet denied that it was his concern. Whether the count paid in the end or not does not appear. With the help of the Revue des Deux Mondes and Madame Collet's L'Italie des Italiens we managed to get through with a long evening. Thursday Nov 12th Today we made the usual discoveries on taking possession of a house that has been repaired - damp walls, smoking chimney or no chimney at all. Mr Marsh was completely driven out of his room, and the darkness of the day helped to dispirit us. Alas! what can all this gilding, all this painting, all these mirrors, all this satin, and all this embroidery do to compensate for the glorious sunshine and song of the open country. For my part, thankful as I am that we are here since we must come her, I already pine for the light of heaven we left behind us.

Friday Nov. 13th Another day of household discomfort. Even telegrams from America and European Congresses lose something of their interest at such a time. Those however who are not putting up stoves and putting down carpets are very full of the Emperour's project, and even we find time to wonder a little what he will say to Sénor Romero's reception at Washington. The weather is as glum without as within today. Saturday Nov 14th This morning I sent for Madame Ghirardi's cameriera to consult about the carpet. She came, and lo, "a woman with a peard" such as I never beheld before! She is about thirty with the moustache of a young man of twenty two, and a beard which a young man of twenty five would be proud of. Indeed it is no exaggeration to say that few men can boast a blacker or a thicker one. It was cut close & half concealed by a muffler, but could not be hid entirely. The girl is otherwise goodlooking, and her features are not masculine. This evening we began Paris en Amérique, and were greatly diverted. Sunday Nov. 15th Young Luigi Kossuth came in this morning while we were deep in Janet's article on German materialism, in the August number of the Revue des Deux Mondes. We talked Poland and Hungary of course & had another laugh at the expense of poor old King Arpad alias, Chuy-chanel, who has lately sued the Duke of Modena for assuming one of his (Arpad's) titles, Duke of Este. Among the other discoveries made by this

claimant of the Hungarian throne is this - that the first wife of Julius Ceasar was a Kossuth, daughter of Lucius Kossucius, consul etc. We finished Janets article after our visiter left us, and liked it much. It is wonderful how superior the French are to the English in this species of writing. Monday Nov. 16th As soon after breakfast as innumerable interruptions would permit us we drove out in search of carpets &c. - managed to spend a good deal of money in the course of an hour - though grudgingly - I returned with Mr Marsh, and, though feeling very unwell, took up C__. and G__. and proceeded to get Carrie's winter outfit. At one of the shops they persisted in showing nothing but English goods, and when I asked for French fabrics they said - "But all our newest and best things are English - nobody buys anything but what is English - in short the whole nation is going Protestant.' On our return I told Mr and Mrs Tottenham when they came in what I had heard, and though I do not suppose they took the shopman's words literally, they were evidently pleased. They, at least, are not sorry for the late change in the English Embassy, though I do not know whether they take the side of Sir James or Lord Russell on the question between them. - The illness of the King of Denmark excites much anxiety among the friends of that country, as his death might have a very unfavorable effect on the Schleswig- Holstein dispute. Mr Elliot writes that the reception of our King at Naples was everything a King could desire, and I hope his visit there may do good. - Poor Miss Arbesser has just received news of the death of her father as she tells me in reply to my note sent with patterns from England for the Principe [Princess] Marguerite

Tuesday Nov. 17th The morning was consumed in superintending the matching of carpet patterns, selection of rugs, writing notes &c. Mr Artoni spent the evening with us. I told him that Mr Marsh had found a new word for a secularized priest - un prete spretato - he laughed and said 'you know that Garibaldi says - 'bisogna snapoleonizzare l' Italia.' The death of the king of Denmark is announced today. Great sorrow and anxiety, even alarm, is said to prevail in Copenhagen. The late King was not well spoken of when he came to the throne and his domestic life would indicate something wrong, but he has succeeded in making himself a popular King. His uncle Frederic-Ferdinand, who succeeds him has still more doubtful rights in Schleswig-Holstein, and trouble is feared. The Congress, to judge from newspaper discussions, is not rising in public favour. Another subject of much debate and quarrelling is the Suez-canal which Lesseps declares will go on in spite of the opposition of the pasha stirred up as everybody believes him to be by English intrigues. England seems really in a fair way not only to be hated by the whole world as a power but to bring upon herself such a storm of indignation as will greatly affect her influence, if it does not injure her material prosperity. Wednesday 18th Mr Clay made his appearance this morning after a ten days absence, and we were not a little surprised to find he had been to Caprera to see Garibaldi. He is much pleased with his visit, the day he spent with the general compensating fully for three days of grievous sea- -sickness and two days among the miserable fishermen

Garibaldi's letter to some friends in the Neapolitan province who are trying to get up a monument for him, is most characteristic. The substance is 'while two foreign armies are encamped on the soil of Italy, while the blood of her sons shed by brigands is reddening her highways, while Italian peasants suffer hunger and Italian children are without schol schools let me not hear of monuments - least of all, a monument to me.'

of the Maddalena. He gives the same account of this most remarkable man on his sea-rock as other visitors have done. His rude fare and rough companions - his hospitality in offering all he has, - his wonderful symplicity of manner and character - his cheerfulness combined with a dignity that never forsakes him, - and above all that rather absence of all thought of himself which cannot fail to impress even his enemies. His companions are old fellow-soldiers in their red shirts; (, he himself wore a grey one when Mr Clay saw him with a kind of poncho over his shoulder) they cook their messes in turn, and coarse fare it is too - a huge platter of salt fish - a large dish of black beans - these seemed to be the principal delicacies. Boxes of nice dried fruits sent Garibaldi by distant friends arrived while Mr Clay was there but they all went into the common store-room. The hero cares for none of these things. Clay says he expressed great interest in the Mexican question, and believes in the day when we shall be in a position to dictate to the Emperour Napoléon the course he is to pursue with regard to that country. His sons are now both with him - the eldest Menotti - Mr Clay says is a noble fellow physically, and adored by the fishermen of Maddalena and the coast, whom he hugs and kisses in a most fraternal and Italian way. We were obliged to descend very abruptly from the region of Garibaldi to the atmosphere of an old Jewess who came to make a carpet, and who demanded fifteen francs for what work that any "faculized" Yankee dame would have undertaken to do in a day. I sent the witch off and Carrie sat down to do the work. Then followed

carpenters &c all ready to come and do a little job three days hence, but nobody to be got now. For the whole of the rest of the day we were all through other, as the Pennsyl- -vania Duchman says. Thursday Nov. 19. We make so little progress in settling our house in order that I am afraid even the end of the month will not find us quieted down for the winter. Driven from room to room now by a carpenter, now by a fumista, we wander about like troubled spirits, losing our time and trying not to lose our tempers. The abbé Baruffi called at the door this evening, left a very neat copy of th his Campo Santo di Torino for us with a promise to come in and pass the evening with us very soon. After tea we read the article in the Revue des Deux Mondes on the propossed Congress and then went on with Paris en Amérique. Friday Nov. 20th The sister of our hospital patient brought us some fine fresh fish this morning and a huge basket of 'red apples,' evidently selected with great care. I enquired how her sister was - 'Beng-beng," said she clasping her hands with a delighted expression. She walks all about the hospital, and has already begun to make gloves. A greater miracle than this was never performed even by the famous Dr Nelson of Boston memory. We had no interruptions during the day except from workmen who still keep the house topsy-turvy. In the evening our always welcome friend the abbé spent a couple of hours with us and we had a great deal to

say on both sides. Since we saw him he has been at Chambery at the scientific gathering, at Paris, at Frankfurt at the time of the congress of the German States, at Aix-le-Bain when Rattazzi and Rattazzi- Solmes-Bonaparte were there together, and he promises us some choice gossip when he comes in again. He is very far from ill natured, and never tells an unfavourable story except of those who have become public property & whose doings and sayings have something like historic interest. For the first time he admits that the affairs of the Suez-canal company are in a bad way, and lays the blame, as does everyone else, entirely on the English Meeting one day in Paris the secretary of the pasha of Egypt the young man said to him: "You are a friend of the President of the company and you could not do him a greater service than to pursuade him to re- -nounce for the company their claim to the lands adjacent to the canal." Soon after he met Mr Lesseps at a re- -ception of Day Drouyn de Lhuys, and taking him into a window recess told him what the Bey had said. Upon this Lesseps declared in a loud and excited tone that they would never give up one inch. Drouyn de Luys Lluys [Lhuys] himself was standing near enough to hear this declaration, inquired into the cause of his excitement, and then took him quite apart and held a half-hour's talk with him. The Abbé thinks the Emperour will not give up the question, and in this instance at least I wish he may have a triumph. England has no right to set herself against the con- -venience and advantage of the whole world. If she

pushes matters too far France may say to Russia - 'Take Constantinople if you like provided you will let me do what I please with Egypt,' and England would thus find herself left out in the cold. I asked the Abbé what he heard of the congress and what he heard said of it. "Oh, I suppose everybody believes it to be an expedient on the part of the Emperour to divert public attention from matters that more immediately concern France. We talked of Mondovi and our disap- -pointment in not having fine weather when there, and our old friend told us many interesting things about old palaces in the neighborhood &c. and we settled to go there with him in the spring. We asked after the great old Plana and he tells us that his hearing is almost entirely gone, but he works on at his profound problems with as much zeal and success as when he was twenty years younger. There was too little time how- -ever to enquire after half our acquaintance. La Pomposa he says in very poor health, but we did not enter upon the fashionable world in general. Saturday Nov. 21st The new chargé from Brazil Monsieur de Britto paid us a first visit this morning. He seems a quiet little man of forms - very gentlemanly and very conventional. The Gajani's came towards evening and we talked America. - In the evening we finished Paris en Amérique and clapped it vigorously at the close. I intend to get another copy to use for missionary purposes. I have see no book likely to do us more good.

Sunday 22 Nov. We all went to church this morning, had a fair sermon from Mr Tottenham whose congregation for the most part was made up of diplomats actual or en inactivité. The Elliots the Hochschilds, the Solvyns, the Browns, Mr Clay. After service & a shaking of hands with our friends we drove to the Piazza d'armi before returning home to see the mountains in their winter glory. A few minutes after we returned we were surprised and pleased by a visit from dear old Plana. The Abbé had told us that he went no where now, being too deaf to hear anything, and suffering con- -stantly from a painful affection of the mouth and throat. His first words after his welcome were: "Je vais mourir et je suis venu pour vous revoir encore une fors." I protested by remind- -ing him that he was still looked in excellent health, that he walked almost with the ease of a young man, and that he was still able to perform an amount of mental labour the thought of which would appal most of us. I could not make him hear however except now and then a single word, and Mr Marsh did not succeed better till he took out his trumpet and then we got on pretty well. He brought with him his last work on Polar heat to be sent to the Washington Observatory. Our great object was to make him talk of course and the mention of the proposed Congress roused him sufficiently. He poured out a torrent of epithets on the French Emperour. the mildest of which was fourbe and ended by b expressing the hope that he would finish worse than his uncle had done. As to Mexico he said - 'Vous le chasserez, vous autres, vous le chasserez n'est-ce-pas?' He then broke out into a sort of apostrophe to the Emperour seizing in his enthusiasm sometimes Mr Marsh's

From the piazza of the Monte dei Capucini Mr Marsh saw this morning the famous spectre of the Brocken. It was so distinct that he could distinguish his hat and even his cane as he raised it or let it fall.

hand, sometimes mine, and finished by saying - 'so I would speak to the Emperour if I could be but a member of that Congress.' When he bid us goodbye he promised to come again if he lived long enough, and to Carrie he said "Adieu, Madam- -oiselle, je vous prends dans mes bras." Poor old man. He evidently feels that his is a setting sun, and he is much grat- -ified by marks of respect and admiration now rarer than once no doubt. - After the Baron left us we took up Samuel Vincent's Méditations Religieuses which promises to be a book of great interest. Mr Clay and Mr Artoni dined with us. Monday Nov 23 C. and I lost nearly the whole day from having no room in which we could sit down with a fire. Our own cabinet was in the hands of a chimney-sweep and a fumista - the drawing room was being swept and garnished, the chimney in my own bedroom smoked too intolerably to allow of a fire - Carrie's bedroom had a stove-pipe connected with our working cabinet and shared the confusion of the latter - Mr Marsh's room is still so damp that there is little comfort in it, and be- -sides carpenters or paperers or fumisti or tailors are per- -petually coming and going there. Altogether it was an evil day and we went to bed with the mournful reflection that not a single room was yet in thorough order Tuesday Nov 24 I was driven out of my room earlier than usual by the announcement that a paperer wanted admission - went into Mr Marsh's room and found the enemy there, begged that a

fire might be put in the drawing-room, was told that Susanne was there washing the doors - that the fumista was expected every moment to finish his work in our waiting room &c &c. I resigned my- -self and sat down by Mr Marsh while the paperer went on with his operations. To soothe my nerves, made even more than ordinarily sensitive by a Dover's powder last night, Mr Marsh read me the Saturday Review criticism on Longfellow's last poems. Without having read these poems the mean-spiritedness weakness and ignorance of the critic are sufficiently apparent. One thing amused us particularly - The burthen of one of the songs; 'Dead rides &c' the writer says does not seem to have anything to do whatever with the rest of the poem, for aught he can see it might as well have been: Alive walks Mr Smith &c'! At the same time he gravely adds that no doubt it does mean something, and that Mr Longfellow ought to have explained it! He thinks Mr Longfellow should not have selected those old Norse subjects because he, (the Critic) does not know anything about them, & he also thinks that Mr L__. should not have made allusions to a mythology equally unknown to the learned men of England. He admits that Tennyson has made use of old legends, but then the scene of these was in the British Isles about which everybody knows everything - or ought to. - While Valerio from Genoa was telling us his various troubles with his countrymen and his government, his unsuccessful efforts to bring them up

a little, the youngest eldest Kossuth came in. He was well posted up in affairs American and European, and like his brother is remarkably gifted. The Solvyns came later - The Abbé sent Carrie while we were at the dinner table Madame Gasparin's last book from which we read in the evening with much admiration. Les Tristesses Humaines like all her other books is full of profound thought and lighted up by unmistakable flashes of the highest genius. Wednesday 25th Nov. Our first news today was sad enough. The Pulszkys have lost their Gyula - a most promising boy of fifteen. We had not even heard of his illness. I hope this is not the fruit of the parents' ambition - they are generally thought to press their children very hard in their studies. Judge Dyer and Dr Davisson of Chicago presented themselves about eleven and I had an hour's talk with them before Mr Marsh came in. They are plain sensible men - out- -spoked christians, and hearty patriots - just such men as Dr Lefebvre met in his eight days in America. One of Judge Dyer's replies in answer to some complaints of mine against the administration for want of energy diverted me immensely. "Madam." said he, - "you may depend upon it, the Lord runs Lincoln! I have watched the course of events during this war and I am sure of it - the Lord runs Lincoln!" I am not certain but that he quoted the phrase as having been used first by some one else, but original or not it struck me as very droll. Among other things we learn from them was the presence of Mrs Lincoln on this side the water. If I had one of

Johnathan Dream's pills to dispose of she would find herself in the heart of Australia when she wakes tomorrow morning. They told an anecdote of her quite in accordance with those told by our friend Larned. Senator Foot being at the head of a committee of arrangements for the Inauguration called on Mrs Lincoln to inquire how many seats she would like reserved for herself and friends. "Sir" replied the amiable lady "I guess I've wit enough to find my way to the capitol without any help of yours!" Mr Foot was confounded of course, told the story to Trumball and asked what it could mean. "It means" said Trumball that she is a __ fool." Mrs Monnet was our next vis- -itor. We talked of new American books, abused the Em- -perour Napoleón, and were interrupted by the entrance of Madame de Rothan wife of the French Chargé. I was glad Mr Marsh happened to be present that he might see for himself whether there was occasion for the sudden admiration I felt for this last lady. - Handsome graceful, intelligent and simpathique as the phrase is, I felt at once as if I had known her half my life. She did not hesitate to express the warmest sympathy for the North in its struggle for the life of the Nation, knew Gasparin's books on the subject, spoke of Madame Gasparin with the greatest admiration, and had enjoyed Paris en Amérique as much as we ourselves. I hardly need take the trouble to say after that she is a Protestant. As to our American writers I am afraid she is more familiar with them than I am. - Mrs Tottenham with her son and daughter came in as soon as Madame de Rothan

left, and confirmed the favourable opinion I had formed of my visitor. Poor Mrs Tottenham was shocked and overcome to hear of young Pulszky's death. Her own great grief is so fresh that she cannot fail to feel acutely for her friends who are suffering like herself. Mr Marsh found time to pay a few visits today and among others went to see Gorresio. He found him with a pile of Sanscrit manuscripts before him, beautifully written out on palm leaves, one of which he was copying. He was courteous enough to say that he had been reading Mr Marsh's books lately with the greatest pleasure and profit, and then went into a more detailed and still more flattering criticism of them. Mr Marsh was satisfied however that it was Max Müller who had excited the learned librarian's curiosity, and that but for him he would probably never have read them. This is certainly not strange when one considers how little time he can have for any thing out of his own immediate sphere of occupation. Thursday Nov. 26th Our domestic disorder increases rather than diminishes. The running to and fro, this morning, of carpenters, fumisti &c with all their arnese has com- -pletely upset the small quantity of brains left intact by a terrible cold. Poor husband was entirely dislodged and went out to make visits leaving a palsied old carpenter at work in his cabinet who had spent three hours in measuring the length of a single shelf and in sawing

off the two ends. In the course of his visits he learned some curious facts with regard to Sir James Hudson and the late English Legation generally. An English gentleman very friendly to Sir James personally and recognizing some very important services rendered by him to Italy, declares that there were several causes united which occasioned his removal. That Lord Russell was glad to have an opportunity to provide for a connection he admits, but he says that the grossly immoral life led by Sir James and his suite had become so notorious as to be complained of by almost every respectable Englishman who visited Turin, that even the common city police had brought complaints against the Embassy. As to the services rendered Italy by Sir James this gentleman thinks they have been greatly exaggerated by letter writers who found their flattery paid well. He alluded to one circumstance, or rather one statement often repeated by the English journals with regard to the friendships existing between Sir James and Cavour - that Sir James was with the Minister almost constantly during his last illness and that he died in his arms. Mr Marsh's in- -formant says that Sir James himself told him that he never saw Cavour from the time they dined together on a fine fish the day before Cavour became seriously ill - and for the best of reasons, namely that he left town immediately

after this dinner and returned only when it was too late. The English gentleman claims for Sir James the most manly political creed and practice, but says his private life was a most pernicious exam- -ple to Italy, and a disgrace to England. Alas, alas, alas for appearances, and whom can one believe and trust in this so-called high life! We had Judge Dyer and Mr Davisson, the Gajanis, Clay and Artoni to dine with us by way of keeping the national Thanksgiving. It was very pleasant in spite of a little smoke and the absence of the mince-pies and pumpkin-pies. The two travellers had much to tell us of their own personal expe- -riences and that of their friends in the dreadful scenes through which our country had passed since we left it. Dr Davisson told me he had, or had had, thirty three relatives in the Army, many of whom had already laid down their lives, and he gave me some most touching incidents connected with some of them. His account of a couple of hours spent in a Church filled with wounded soldiers from the rebel army was very moving. Judge Dyer has thirteen or fifteen nephews, I am not quite sure which, now in the army. He had many interesting things to tell us of what he had witnessed on the African coast, and he assured us that the hanging of Gordon had produced a shock among

the Slave dealers that had extended as far as Timbuctoo, and that it had done more towards putting down the Slave trade than a dozen fleets could have done. With Gajani we talked over the Congress and the new coast treaty with France Mr Marsh expresses his astonishment to every Italian he meets at the obsequiousness of this government towards the Emperour. It is really sad to see it drifting completely under his guns. Everybody believes that the Congress is a great hum, but the Denmark question looks blacker every day. I had a nice talk with Mrs Gajani about old friends, and learned from her many interesting little items. Mr & Mrs Gajani go to the Waldensian Church and propose to become communicants in it. Mr Artoni had a very unpleasant story to tell us of an American calling himself Thompson who with his wife mother and very beautiful sister who had been living for two months in private lodgings in the via Dora Grossa, and had just left, leaving not only rent unpaid, but having actually borrowed money of his landlady. As people of this stamp very naturally do not come to the Legation we had heard nothing of them when the injured land- lady brought in her complaint. Friday Nov. 27th Mr Marsh diverted us not a little this morning by giving us the Tuscan word implying

the attendant of a young lady when she goes out - Il suo decoro! The day is damp and foggy, and at half past two we can hardly no longer see. My detestation for town-life increases every day. The abbé Baruffi spent the evening with us, so that it did not seem long. He gives a bad account of the poor Marchesa Doria, for whom, by the way, our phoenix of a foot- -man, Gaetano, has been to enquire in my name and without any order from me every day. I should have given him the order certainly, had he not had enough work to do for two since we came here. Saturday Nov. 28th Our ancient friend Dr Péters whom we first saw in Constantinople, afterwards in various parts of Europe and finally in America presented himself quite unexpectedly this morning. Mr Marsh asked him to dinner which dismayed me a little at first remembering what a bore he had been to me in other years. Plana took him in charge through the day as a brother-cipherer, and when dinner was over and we were discussing Bache and his clique over a cup of tea I could not help saying to myself "the man isn't really so bad, after all!" He said some very good things about the new scientific association - and actually made us laugh heartily by his account of the Phil. adelphian who was struck with the brilliant idea that he might go to China by raising himself in a balloon to some little height in the air, and waiting there, till, in the natural order of things, China should be directly under him, at which à propos moment he would let himself

down upon the celestial Empire! Péters declares that this philosopher actually tried to raise funds wherewith to try the experiment, but the benighted population of Philadelphia, who had not yet learned the great fact that the world turns around, refused to aid him! Sunday Nov. 29th England they say has definitely refused to have anything to do with the Emperour's Congress, and thereupon the Paris papers rail, and the Italian journals join in the chorus. One does not know what to believe about the Empress' letter to the Pope, but many persons think she has actually written in a tone that leads the pope to believe he may hope to be reinstated in all his lost provinces, that he may see the Bourbon once more in Naples, and the ex-dukes lording it over their former heritages. Are we really come to this, that such a woman as this Eugénie holds in her hands the destinies of peoples? I sat down when the rest had gone to Church looking for a precious quiet hour to myself, but had hardly thrown myself on the sofà in the Library when Mr Wheeler was announced - a good man and welcome, but alas!, how time flies. Among Mme Gasparin's Tristesses Humaines is there a sadder one than this - never to be sure of a moment to dispose of at one's will. We talked over the bad news from Burnside and other political matters, then those of a more personal nature, till Mr Marsh came in from Church, on which I retired to the drawing-room having learned from C. that the Baroness de Hochschild was coming in, Luigi Kossuth was announced almost immediately

and after him the Hochschilds, then Rustem Bey. Speaking of the Congress Kossuth quoted what is said to have been the Emperor's direction with regard to the sense in which an edito- rial was to be written for La France - "Si le congrès se fait c'est bien, si le congrès ne se fait pas, eh, bien, tant mieux!" Hochschild does not like to talk about the cloud in the North, hopes it won't be much of a shower &.. Alluding to the subserviency of Italy to France at this time he said 'I consider the Italians a nation of snobs, and if they go on in this way they will soon be unfit for the society of gentlemen.' I found the bold Baron's tone, though he has never been a partisan of the South, much more hopeful with regard to our affairs, and he dwelt energetically on the insanity of the rebels. Our great guns have produced a prodigious effect on public opinion in Europe. But my quests did not confine themselves to national topics. The poor Doria was spoken of as very ill. Thereupon Mme de Hochschild declared it was no wonder, with her late hours, her receptions in her bedroom where her visitors smoked ad libitum, and where neither fresh air or fresh water were ever admitted, the Mar- -chesa being known to have a very doggish aversion to cold water. The Baroness however wound up her remarks by some apologetic suggestions in favour of the Marchesa, and by declaring that she was on the whole kind-hearted, and that she was almost the only Turinese lady who received strangers or showed them any civilities. "For my part" said her husband, "I don't think she is a good woman, and I wish she never had received, and I'm glad she's ill!" Of course the Baron said this by way of joke, but he has never made a secret of not liking her, and the antipathy has been reciprocal.

Rustem Bey threw in his little word of dénigrement - The Marchese had a visitor at her country-seat last summer who was troublesome because he rang his bell so often for water. At last she lost her patience and complained to other friends - "I never use more than a glass of water to make my toilette, and I don't see why he needs more". It is so easy to see that this story has passed through several mouths that it needs no comment. It gave me almost a shudder as I listened to this talk when I recollected the homage I had seen paid to this lady by Rustem Bey and the like in the days when she was a social leader here, and which would be paid again if she were to recover and open her sala once more. Mr Wheeler dined and passed the evening with us - a rational human creature whose heart has not been annihilated to make room for a compass. Monday Nov. 30 C. and I wrote notes and letters all the morning. Our only visitor was the Countess de Marini. Poor old thing! Old age and ill health have at last used up the little remnant of brains that the haute société had left her. I felt ashamed after she left that I had allowed the conversation to turn only on the prospects of the winter, as to balls, theatres parties etc., but I saw no chance of making myself under- -stood even if I had tried to give it another direction. So melancholy an old age I have seldom seen in any class of society. Mr Wheeler dined with us and hurried off for Genoa. In the evening we were uninterrupted by visitors, read La Boulaye's preface to his Liberté Religieuse, something from Mme de Gasparin, and finished the evening

with the admirable criticism of Buckle in the January '63 number of the Atlantic Monthly. Tuesday December 1st Before I could get through with a short morning's work and finish dressing, Mr Tottenham and his son came in, and Mr Solvyns soon after. Young Tottenham whose officer-life has been for the most part in China, laments the course of his government in changing sides in the Chinese civil war, and taking the part as they now do, of the Emperor. He thinks the only chance of progress for China is the success of the revolutionary party. It is bad enough he admits, but under its rule, improvement would be possible. Mr Solvyns commends warmly Lord Russell's part of the correspondence between the French and English governments on the subject of the Congress. The last letter is very good certainly, but the first does not strike me as very able. Why did he not confine himself simply to an expression of the confidence of his government in the good intentions of the Emperor and to the questions what were to be the subjects dis- -cussed, and how far were the decisions of the Congress to be binding, and by what means were they to be carried out? Instead of this, he in the first place argues against the Congress, betrays an evident intention to have nothing to do with it, and then puts these questions. It seems to me the other course would have been much simpler and given less occasion to the bitter outcry which the refusal has brought upon England from so many quarters. I did not however express this opinion to

Mr Solvyns as with even so enlightened a man as he, it is wiser for a woman not to venture criticisms in such cases. The war prospect was of course dis- -cussed. Everybody hopes it may be avoided, nobody sees how. The Minister of Foreign Affairs told Mr Marsh yesterday that the United States had proposed to the Italian Government to buy the two frigates built for the latter by Webb, but that, while they were anxious for our success, and desirous to oblige us if possible, yet to give up these two frigates would be as serious an evil to them as if we were to send 'twenty thousand men to the Dalmatian coast to aid Austria in its defence.' He evidently meant to be understood that Dalmatia was the point to which the Italians were now looking. In the evening we had the Monnets, and enjoyed their visit very much. They are so intelligent and so much in earnest. Wednesday Dec. 2nd Mrs Tottenham and girls called this morning and took Carrie to the Vaudois fair, - like all the fairs here, the poorest of shams compared with ours, but the people give and they accomplish their ends. It snowed quite fast most of the day, always melting in the streets but resting on the roofs. Madame de Castro came in towards evening and sat half an hour. She is more than amiable, she is sensible and bright, and yet all we had to say to each other were friendly words of enquiry about health &c. then the a little talk about the young Queen of Portugal, her beau garçon

of a husband, their domestic happiness, and the fêting tour on which they now are; After this followed a history of the Diplomatic ladies who had gone and come since we met, the number of court balls given last winter and the number that probably would be given this, then a goodbye with a resolution to talk English when we met again - and then the good lady went off to her carriage, sighing to herself I dare say - 'now I must go somewhere else in all this miserable weather to say over the same things I have said here,' while I sighed too to think that we two who might really have heartily loved each other under certain circumstances should probably never know any or care any more about each other than we now do though we may meet once a week for a twelve-month. Thursday 3rd I have about resigned myself to consider the winter as thrown away as to any special purposes of my own. The chimney of my woking [working?] cabinet proves incorrigible, Mr Marsh is always [illegible] exposed to visitors, often business ones, and I am never safe in his study for a moment, the dining room is a thoroughfare to his apartments, as is the little boudoir, and I cannot be in the drawing room except when dressed, and besides it is so dark then that knitting-work is the only work possible. I grumbled the day away - in the evening we had a pleasant reading till nine o'clock, then talked with Miss Arbesser till eleven. With all her fine intellect and varied reading I see the wretched effects

Matteucci and Bonghi have had a difficulty, Bonghi having made some public charges against the former. Matteucci who, great man as he is, has a very undignified sensibility to trifles, felt himself greatly aggrieved and told a friend the he was going to write a letter to be published in one of the Turinese Journals to justify himself, and to disgrace Bonghi. His friend advised him by all means to do it, waited while he wrote it, then read and approved it warmly, after which he threw it into the fire saying: "Now you have thoroughly relieved your mind, it is well, but you must not do so undignified a thing as to get into a personal altercation in the newspapers. Matteucci yielded with rather a bad grace, but the course of his friend the Marchesa Arconati, when she heard of his affront must have consoled him. She is said to have written the following note to Bonghi. "Mon cher Bonghi. Vous avez attaqué mon ami Matteucci - il s'en trouve blessé, et désormais il vous verra mal volentiers [volontiers]. Comme je préfère Matteucci à vous, je me trouve dans la nécessité de vous prier de ne plus venir chez moi." To explain this note one should know that both these gentlemen have been in the habit of frequenting Mme Arconati's soirées.

of the European system of education on both her head and her heart. It is now about fifteen days since she heard of her father's sudden death, and she now asks me for amusing books, "for," says she, while the tear gathers in her eye "I cannot read grave books now; I really cannot, they make me too sad. I have been reading Lichtenbergs satires since this blow came upon me - they are really very funny!" - Ohimè! I must not forget to mention that poor little Mrs feeble-mind De Zeyck came here this morning to get some advice from husband about her estate. She brought a paper from her agent showing that since her mother's death (about two months ago) that most consumate of rascals Daïnese has laid claim to Mrs De Zeyck's por- -tion of the inheritance and is likely to get it. The only advice to be given her was to hurry home as soon as possible, and there consult able counsel. I hope it is not already too late. Hitherto I have only judged of this woman from report - now I am satisfied that great mental weakness and an utterly untutored conscience, or rather a conscience overlaid by a thoughtless life and the thoughtless example of those about her, explain all the mysteries of her conduct. But she is very pitiable. Friday 4. Dec. Miss Rosazza came with her governess to settle about the dancing lessons, then followed a visit from old Peter Browne, who was always stone dead mentally and has become partially so physically. He is a good old soul, but grows more and more disagreeable to me as I see more and more of his Irish impudence

and his Irish blarney. The Countess de Rocci with her remaining pretty daughter followed Peter, or rather routed him to my great satisfaction. The good mother's first words after being seated were - 'J'ai marié une de mes filles Madame depuis que je vous ai vue', and the joy and the triumph of her eye was delightful. I was glad to tell her that I knew all about it, and also that she was a nonna. As I looked at the beautiful girl at her side and remembered how necessary her poverty made matrimony, I could not help wishing for her sake that she had been born in a country where unmarried women if still dependent are at least less dependent. Later the Viscomtesse de Castro brought in and presented little Madame de Guerra the wife of the Portuguese secretary, a pretty little poupée with manners and phrases as artificial as one of Maelzel's old autometa. She liked Turin because the society was aristocratic, and distinguished for high breeding, but Genoa she could not bear - it was a commercial town and vulgar in consequence. In the evening we finished Madame de Gasparin's Tristesses Humaines - every page of which is replete with vigourous thought, and impressed with the seal of a splendid genius. Mr Clay gave us an hour of his good company, and with a little help from La Boulaye afterwards the evening passed quickly. Saturday 5th Dec. Mrs Monnet brought the Signorina Piria

to see Carrie this morning. She is the daughter of a Neapolitan senator, an accomplished girl everyway, and a decided artist. The Abbé came in at tea-time, and told us rather an amusing story of the evening before - A man went up to a sentinel in front of the royal palace and said the King had sent him for the royal standard. This man was in his shirt-sleeves, and held a bust of the King under one arm. The sentinel appears to have been rather green at his duty, and to have entertained odd ideas of royal etiquette, for he surrendered the flag at once without any further authority. The fellow who had obtained it then marched down the via Dora Grossa and soon had a troop at his heels. When at last he came in front of one of the royal officers he was arrested by the officer on guard, found to be madman and sent to the manicomia, but the sentinel will probably re- -ceive a lesson, and the officer whose duty it was to have had the royal standard under lock and key at that hour will no doubt be dismissed the service; but the unfortunate flag was somehow to be taken back to its former position, and the question was how. The officer who took it refused to give it up on the first demand, declaring that military etiquette did not allow it to be taken back in that way, and the whole regement had to be mustered before it was surrendered, and then it was borne back in triumph mnsigue [consigue] en tête. The abbé had also just received a letter from the sister of Lesseps who, speaking of the Suez canal, writes

"Fédérique a triomphé comme il le devait." She explains no further. After the abbé left the Gajanis came and passed the evening with us. They are a really valuable addition to our social resources. Sunday Dec. 6th We had an electric shock this morning in the shape of a letter from brother Charles saying he should sail the week after its date, so that we may now look for him almost every day. Nothing could have astonished us more than his under- -taking the voyage at this season, but we shall be too happy if he gets here safe and sound. Carrie and I went to Church, had a good sermon from Mr Tottenham, but a small congregation to listen to it. As kindly old Peter handed me into the carriage my conscience smote me for my sub-illnature to him Friday, and I remembered that he wasn't to blame for his race or his birth-place. In the afternoon we read Vincent's Méditations Religieuses, and had no visitors except Count Miniscalchi. He com- -plimented Mr Marsh's first book on English most warmly but has not yet read the second. We have promised to pay them a visit at their country-seat on Lago di Garda next summer. The telegram this evening brought us good news from America once more - a glorious victory of Grant over Bragg. May it not prove a mistake. Monday Dec 7th The whole morning, with the exception of a little time after breakfast given to the papers, was spent in letter-writing, and that too of letters

of mere dull routine. Besides having a visit from the Gilettas we found a few minutes for German, and then it was three o'clock and dark. A certain Mr Grey, who professed to have important matters of concern to the government to talk over with Mr Marsh got fifty francs from him by way of helping him on to Paris. He states that he has been employed by Mr Adams in London and also by Mr Morse the consul, but Mr Marsh thinks him partially insane. In the evening a naturalized America, Italian born, came for a passport with his wife and child. He brought away from the battle of Bull Run a ball in his shoulder, returned to Italy with his American wife, and remained here till his severe wound was thoroughly healed. He now starts again for America with his handsome wife and beautiful child, and intends to go into the service of the government once more. He is an engineer by profession. Mr Artoni took tea with us. He does not think the civil marriage bill will be passed this year, but says the public opinion is going on rapidly in the right direction. Tuesday 8th We had no visitors today except Francesco Kossuth and the Di Guerras, and I felt too unwell to see even them, though I did so. Wednesday 9th Every fresh telegram makes General Grant's victory over Bragg more and more important, and it really does seem as if the rebellion was nearly finished off. A few more energetic strokes

We were glad to hear from Miss Arbesser that H.R.H. of Genoa has taken possession of Paris en Amérique which I lent Miss A__, and is much amused with it. 'Oh, what a nice book!' she said to Miss A__ after she had read in it one evening.

would do the work. The Marchesa Arconati on her visit this morning expressed the strongest interest in the triumph of our government, but she has evi- -dently been biased by the English Times so far as to half believe its declarations that the reconstruction of the Union is impossible. She is a noble woman & an honour to any country. Miss Arbesser came with her. Mrs Solvyns came in to compare visiting- -lists with me and to give me what information she could as to social changes in the last fifteen months. But night overtook us before we could make much progress in the terrible roll. I was much pleased to find that Mrs Solvyns could be otherwise than stiff and solemn. Piòbesan Molina spent the evening with - came with the double purpose, or rather triple one of paying his respects, selling his library to Mr Marsh, and renting his country-seat to him next summer. His pronounciation of French is very diverting. Under all circumstances he gives ch the sound of s - une charmante chanson is, with him une sarmante sanson - Thursday 10th. This is the quietest day we have had since we left Piòbesi - no visits at all. C__ paid a few among her young friends. Friday 11th Mrs Tottenham came and gave me news of the Pulszkys, and a good many other little items that I was glad to know. In the evening the Abbé Baruffi brought in the great ruin

- Plana - once more. The old man heard better than when I saw him last, and if he were not so impatient with his trumpet one might still talk with him very well, but his mind, which is still most wonderfully rapid, cannot wait to take an impression in this slow way, and he drops the trumpet and begins to talk of something else rather than wait for a reply to his own question. It is difficult to judge from these short interviews how far his intellect is unimpaired, but his memory at least seems perfect, for he recalls what was said the last time we met with the same ease as he repeats anecdotes of his intercourse with Murat at Naples. He says he has consulted Moleschott about his difficulty in the head and throat, and that he told him he must give him something that would either cure him or send him off in peace. Moleschott told him he could not cure him though he might relieve him somewhat. The old man complains most of all that he cannot sleep at night, "but I can work" he added, "I can work then - Dieu merci, je ne suis pas encore imbécile. The abbé is much disturbed at the position of Lesseps. If one were to judge from the government papers, the Emperour means to sacrifice him if not his canal as well, but no one can tell anything about this juggler. While he is pretending to blame the management of the company etc, he may at this moment be saying to the Pasha, 'You will fulfil the engagements of your predecessor or abide the chance of war.' - Baruffi"s Piedmontese

translation of the Latin proverb "Qui capere potest capiat - Chi peu ciapé, ciap. By the way this libero- -conservato priest is so delighted with Paris en Amérique that he says he shall buy a copy expressly to circulate among his acquaintance! - Saturday 12. The Countess Menabrea and daughter were scarcely seated with us this morning when Deputato Levi was announced. For a moment I felt a real disappointment as I wished to have our first visitors by themselves, but it went off very well as the Countess managed with great tact to show neither political nor religious aversion to the opposition -Jew-deputy. We talked a little of spiritism after having first discussed the late American news, and I was really struck to find the Countess so well able to hold up the absurdity of these falsest of all pretenders. The ladies left first, and after a well-merited tribute to the beauty and grace of both mother and daughter, Levi said 'and the Countess is thoroughly liberal too while Menabrea himself is a bit of a Jesuit.' He then handed me a book he has just published - Democrazia e Papismo. - After this we talked of the late excitement in Parliament, the difficulties between Bixio and Crispi, the troubles in the southern provinces &c, and in gen- -eral he sustained the government. He then told me of the rapid progress of the new religious society whose members are Known as the Pauliti, and states that Gen Menabrea has the name of being at the head of

this second edition of Jesuitism. I do not believe a word of this. I then mentioned Madame Gasparin's book: Corporation religieuse au sein du Protestantism and asked him if he knew it. What was my surprise to hear this Ebrew Jew, and supposed to be an infidel besides break out in the warmest expressions of admiration and respect towards this Genevan Calvinist. 'Madame di Gasparin! qui ne la connais pas? C'est le plus noble coeur de l'Europe. C'est une intelligence des plus hautes.' Sunday Dec 13. We had no visitors today except the English Minister Mr Elliot and the brothers Kossuth. The former has the air of a frank gentleman, but does not convey the idea of a very great man. The two latter amused us not a little by telling us that they had lately seen an account of an American surgeon who declared that by means of a certain bleaching process a negro might be transformed into a white man in about three weeks. and they wished to know if this were a fact. We laughed of course without moderation and then tried to explain to them that our people were in the habit in this way of experimenting upon the credulity of Europeans, when one of the young men asked with the most astonishing naïveté: "But why do they say such things if they are not true?," and yet, these young men are highly cultivated, and very wide-awake. When we were by ourselves

Mr Marsh read to me from Vincent. Monday 14th No visits or other events of interest today. Mr Marsh was not well enough to go to Count Sclopis s in the evening with the abbé Baruffi as had been arranged. Tuesday 15 - Mr Marsh went at eleven Vegezzi-Ruscalla lecture on Wallachian literature, and had a long talk with him after the lecture was over. He is a man of rare learning. I shall try to go to the next lecture myself. About one o'clock Mr George W. Hodges & family came in. They are on their way to Rome, and I intrust to them the daguerreotype of our idolized Florence from which Mr Stillman promises to do what he can. Madame Giletta called to see about providing Mrs De Zeyck with a maid to go with her to America. Wednesday 16th After the drawing-lesson this morning we had scarcely more than time to be ready for the dancing-master. Madame Giletta came with her daughter, the Gigliuccis and Miss Rosazza with their governesses. The young people did very well, and I hope the school will prove a success. Mr Meille paid us a visit in the course of the afternoon. Mrs Mayhew also came in before the girls were off, and Baron Plana's daughter was announced while Mrs Mayhew was still with me. The latter has been much in India

and I should think might prove rather an agreeable acquaintance. Plana's daughter was less explosive than when I saw her last, but it was plain enough that only light ashes covered the fire. Miss Arbesser spent the evening with us and was full of interesting matter. She is delighted with Paris en Amérique and seems to be getting to have some idea that many of the stories Americans tell of themselves are not to be taken quite literally, but are rather intended to practice upon European credulity. She confessed that she took the account of the gas headdress au pied de la lettre, and that she heard gentlemen gravely asserting that such a thing about be altogether too dangerous!! Speaking with her about Ruscalla's Lectures led her to say that she knew Wallachia somewhat, having spent three months there with her mother, when she was a child of thirteen. The description she gave of the strange mixture of refinement and barbarism to be witnessed there was odd enough, and she finished her tale by an account of the affair of the Princess Bibesca and her governess. She states that her mother, being a personal friend of the princess; (whom however she had known only in Vienna) procured a governess highly recommended by the French Ambas- sador, to go with her to Wallachia to take charge of her children. In less than a month after her arrival in the country the governess had the mis- -fortune to give some offense to the princess,

who scolded her with great severity, winding up her harangue with - "why do you not tremble before me?" "Your Highness," said the governess, "I tremble before none but my God." "We will see!", cried the enraged princess, and instantly summoned two savages whom she directed to seize and whip the governess, which was done in her presence! The unfortunate woman managed to escape soon after, and took refuge with the English Consul, who caused a statement of the shame- -ful deed to be published in most of the leading European journals. This princess is the mother of the Marquise Rasponi, a beautiful young woman much in Turin, though her home is at Ravenna, and who, common rumour says, beats her maids herself for want of serfs to do it for her; and yet before the world she is as gentle as a dove. Miss Arbesser agrees with Mrs Wyse, that there is still a lurking savage in the breast of every Sclavonian, however refined may be his exterior. Thursday 17th The De Zeycks were here early this morning for passports - Mrs De Zeyck having decided to go to America at once by way of Havre. Her husband goes with her to see her embarked. I supposed they had come to us for money to pay travelling expenses but they seemed to want for nothing. I pitied them both however profoundly when I saw how helpless they were, and how incapable they were of learning

anything from experience. The poor mother is in delicate health, and take with her four children - twins of five years old, one of three, and another of fifteen months. She wished to take a nurse from here, but we advised her to get on if she could with Mr De Zeyck's help as far as Havre, rather than take an entire stranger of whom the children would be afraid, who could conse- -quently be of little use to her, and who would insist on having her return expenses paid as well. She assented at once to the propriety of this proposal, and said she knew from experience that a nurse would be of little use to her on such a journey. Still, I feel very anxious about the poor woman and the children too. The abbé helped away our long evening by his lively and intelligent conversation. Among other things he quoted the famous sonnet of Beretti in which he justifies a three years absence from church by declaring that he so hated Pilate for the odious part he took in the great Christian tragedy "Che io non vado più a messa Per non udir il suo nome nel credo." The trouble about the Suez Canal has roused a stronger anti- English feeling than I had supposed the good abbé was capable of - "Ces philantropes! ils font [illegible] rappelez l'étymologie française filoux en troupes. I should have mentioned that Dr Eaton of Hamilton College was here this morning, and was a good deal startled by hearing of the serious illness of President Lincoln, news which has disturbed us too not a little.

Friday 18th We had scarcely more than five hours of day- light today, and very dim daylight at that. Of course one can do nothing, with the constant interruptions we are subject too when the days are so short. Dr Eaton used up the latter part of the day for us, and before he left Prof. Capellini of Bologna (geologist) presented himself, fresh from a three month's collecting tour in America. He brought letters from Agassiz. He is certainly of igneous origin himself, still in an state of white heat - his eyes flamed like stars when he talked of anything professional. He says his collection will be superiour to any in Europe except that of the Jardin des Plantes. He came to us from Prince Amadeo to whom he had taken care to say that as he had made his collection at his own private expense he intended to keep it to himself for the present, giving the public the benefit of it of course. Saturday 19th Mr Marsh went off early this morning with the other gentlemen of the Diplomatic Corps to hunt at Racconigi. His little practice of two or three times a year is quite bringing him up again as a marksman. He brought down four pheasants and two hares, and his attendant got seven pieces more, though I do not remember the proportion of hares and pheasants. In the division of the game however eight pieces only were sent to us, as so many of the gentlemen were unfortunate enough to bag nothing, and had to be provided for out of the common treasury. Mr Marsh took the measure of Mr Elliot today, and does not

think him a giant. C. and I had no interruptions except visits from the Tottenhams and from the Solvyns Sunday Dec. 20th I put on my hat this morning for church though I felt little like making the effort after a second long night of pain. The carriage through some mistake came too late. Mr Marsh and Carrie walked, and I betook myself to my sofa. When C. returned I wrote a hurried letter to Lucy, and then Mr Marsh and I sat down to one of Vincent's méditations - Let us eat and drink for tomorrow we die, was the subject, and a magnificent discourse it is - so is also the one that follows. I sent Carrie over to the Menabreas when we sat down to read, and before we had finished Madame Peruzzi came in - She returned from Florence only last night, but showed no signs of fatigue. I have never in my life seen such a feminine volcano. The marvel is, how any frame of flesh and blood can endure such wear and tear. I speak without exaggeration in saying that she has a chronic hoarseness from loud and incessant talking, but she never utters a weak or a malicious sentence. The great interests of Italy and the world at large are uppermost in her conversation, and her readiness to serve others in every way is admirable, but for two things she w her society would be invaluable to me here in Turin - the first she everybody makes so many demands upon her, and she takes so much upon herself to do, that she has little time to give to any one person - the second, that her stormy vivaciousness of manner

oppresses and tires me. After she has left me I feel as I fancy a man does after a balloon ascension which has not turned out very successful, and was terminated by being alternately swept over the tree-tops by the hur- -ricane, and bounding like an india-rubber ball against the earth's surface. Madame P__. gives glowing accounts of the progress of Naples, says that of the 14,000 beggars that used to swarm the streets, all are provided for in some way, and no more harass and distress the stranger who visits the city. There is plenty of work for all who will work, plenty of schools for young and old. She herself went over these schools with one of the inspectors. The railroads she thinks are advancing with wonderful rapidity, and this is proved by all their reports. She has also been in Rome, in Pisa, and Florence, and would have had a vast deal to tell me about many other things, had we not been most unfortunately interrupted by the Spanish minister Duro, and his secretary. She took her leave soon after they came in, with a lively promise to come back very soon. With the gentlemen I went through with the ordinary common- -places, then talked a little of American affairs in answer to their questions, and assented to a little abuse of the English which they plainly enough intended as a sweet morsel for me; Duro, speaking of our army and navy said that what we had done was prodigieux, - colossale, and said, "I suppose you will keep them up now by the way of a rod over the heads of the

rest of us!" Monday 21st. Nearly the whole day was used up in making out lists and distributing cards. Carrie and I left about seventy between two and five. The weather was most lovely, and yet damp from a fog which rose a few feet above the earth's surface. The sun was almost scorching and from the effect of the moisture in the atmosphere the whole circle of the horizon was as rosy at three o'clock as is the western sky at a summer-sunset. We missed a few visitors by being out, - The Danish Min- -ister among others, but I dare say this gentleman enjoyed more his talk in Danish with Mr Marsh than he would have done had we been present. Tuesday 22nd We went this morning, taking Ms Gajani, to the university, expecting to hear one of Ruscalla's lectures. After waiting half an hour beyond the appointed time we were surprised and amused by the entrance of a procession formed of the "chiarissimi dottori dell' Universita' in their professional gowns and badges and headed by a quaint old beadle with his huge mace of office. They escorted a young man up to a sort of pulpit which he ascended in white kid gloves and white neckcloth. The professors then took their seats in a line in front of the pulpit with a long desk before them, on which were writing- materials, etc. We were then presented with a brochure which explained what was about to take place - the young gentleman in the pulpit was to be examined

Mr Marsh dined at the Ministero this evening He tried to bring to the notice of Venosta what he had previously done to that of Sella - the fact that the sugar-cane was once so successfully cultivated in Sicily, and that there was no apparent reason why it should not be grown there now and most profitably. He also tried to stir up Count Sclopis to the importance of making some good roads on the Collina. This is the first time he has met Amari, and the impression he made was agreeable. Cibrario he has never liked.

for the degree of Dr. of Laws. The examination consisted in the discussion of certain propositions, or theses. Some one of the professors announced the proposition which he declared himself ready to defend against the young candidate who said what he could on the other side. The whole thing had evidently been carefully studied up by all parties beforehand. The young man had even his references to different sections of the Code all turned down at the right page, such references being his answers to the supposed extempore [illegible] arguments of his opponent - On the whole it was a decided farce, for us of the laity at least, and I think it was little better in the opinion of all present. I would have liked immensely however to have carried off a good photograph of that row of professors with the solemn beadle in front of them making a profound reverence now to one, now to another according as it was time for the one to end his speech and another to begin. Some of these professors were young spirited-looking fellows, but the larger proportion were passed middle age, and had the most comical phizes I have ever seen. We were glad to get out at the end of the hour, for our stock of gravity was by that time quite exhausted. We brought away the brochure for the diversion of some of our legal friends at home. After a drive around the Piazza, I returned in time to receive Mr Astengo, and settle with him about his daughter's joining Carrie's dancing-class. Later Mr Sella came in, and we were glad enough to

have a nice long talk with this gifted and very intelligent man. He is to go down with Giorgini in a few days to pay a visit to Ricasoli, who wants them to witness the working of some of his newly- imported steam-machines, intended to be used for agricultural operations on the Maremme. Wednesday 23rd. The dancers with mammas and nurses made their appearance before C- and I were really ready for them though we had been hurrying matters all the morning. The Countess Gigliuicci (Clara Novello) was among the first, and after an hours talk with her I decidedly came to the conclusion that she is an acquaintance worth cultivating. She is a little positive in her conversation, and does not feel her way as to the opinions of her interlocutor, but she is frank, and fearless, and clear-headed, and witty. She says she has been devoting herself for a year or two past chiefly to German literature, and the conclusion she has arrived at are not very flattering to the Teutons. She declares Göthe to be a colossal wind-beutel filled with vanity and humbug. I asked what she had read of Göthe and found she had made very unfortunate selections so far as English and American taste is concerned. I begged her to read some of his tragedies and certain other poems before she renounced him and denounced him altogether. She talked much of her sister Mrs Cowden Clark in whom she feels great pride. When Mr Astengo came in with his beautiful

young daughter, the conversation of course became Italian, and she grew very sprightly. In talking of the ages of the girls who composed the class Madame Gigliucci spoke of her own early companions and of such as were of her own precise age. These last she declares fell several years behind her before she was thirty, that on arriving at that age she resolved to wait for the others to come up - ed io ci sto benissimo! I am told her voice has lost little or nothing of its early magic, and I hope we may hear us sing before the winter is over. The Countess Castagnetto came soon after the dancing began with her two daughters who wished to see Carrie. I was very sorry to be obliged to excuse her I am anxious to have her see all she can of the young people here, and the rank and manners of the Castagnets make them very instructive companions. The Countess herself is as simple and unassuming as a child - perhaps her pecuniary misfortunes have not been without influence. Dear, sweet Mme de Gautier came in as the Castagnets went out. It was a little odd, for we had just been speaking of her, and my guests had bestowed the warmest encomiums on her person, manners, and character. I never see her without increased admiration. The misfortune of the Miniscalchi's in the loss of their lovely daughter - Teresina - seemed to have brought back her own great sorrow with overpowering freshness and she controlled herself with much difficulty in alluding to it. The Avezzanas followed her and by the time their visit was over the two hours'

dancing-lesson was at an end too. I must not forget to mention that I had had in the meantime another visiter, Baron Tecco, who has just come back from another visit to Constantinople, and with whom we talked about the East with great pleasure. Thursday 24 - Gaetano went this morning to bear a torch in the funeral procession. The Count and Countess Miniscalchi with all their family and servants set out for Verona before the ceremony, and no persons followed the body to the church except servants of the royal household, of a few other families, and our own. All this seems so strange to us. It is true the remains of their daughter are to be sent to rest with their ancestors at Verona, but the arrangements at the funeral would have been precisely the same had she been buried in the cemetery here. In this country no relative or friend sees the lost one laid in the grave. All this is left to priests and monks, and nuns, and servants who carry aloft the family scutcheon. I felt too unwell to get up till noon today, but Carrie and I spent the morning in making out lists of visits to be paid, and we had scarcely finished when the carriage was declared ready, and Mr Marsh and C - set off to do the disagreeable work. I was scarcely stretched on my sofa in the drawing room when Peter Browne was shown in. I really dont know whether he is a canting old [illegible] hypocrite, or a brainless anglo-Irishman with all the stupid prejudices that belong to his class, with the

addition of that proportion of malice towards our country which marks so many of them. He had not talked with me five minutes before I saw what was uppermost in his mind. The late good news from America had disappointed and vexed him, and he came expressly to tell me that we were making altogether too much of it and that neither he nor any other sensible man on this side the water dreamed there was anything left for us but inevitable separation and ultimate ruin as a nation. These were not his words, but they are fairly the substance of what he said. I told him that we, on the contrary, felt perfectly secure of a very different result, and no intelligent American, or intelligent and candid European on our side the water doubted for a moment but that in less than five years we should be in a condition to give law to the world if we thought it worth our while, and I said that not the least of our gains from this war war was the unmasking of our enemies - We talked for half an hour at least on American affairs, and at almost every sentence I was obliged to correct the old gentleman, and assure him of the falsehood of some statement he had quoted from the Times, until at last I told him I begged to be spared quotations from that journal on the subject of our affairs as it almost never uttered a syllable of truth with reference to it. This brought on a spirited defence of the Times on his part, and as a proof of its power and respectability in England he referred to its late contro- -versy with Mr Cobden. I said, 'I am sorry to

hear you admit what I am afraid is too true, but what I have tried to disbelieve on the authority of some of your own most eminent men. I have been assured sometimes that this paper is not the true exponent of the British sense of honor and of justice. As to the contro- -versy with Cobden, I must say, in justice to England, that there were men there, and great men too, who had dared to stigmatize it as it deserved. I then referred him to the Daily News, to the very able editorial articles on the controversy, to the indignant utterances from persons who did not fear to sign their names to their communications, and to extracts from other English journals severely condemning the course of the Times. Father Browne then broke out in no measured terms against Mr Cobden, declared he had not a particle of influence in England, but that if he had his reckless policy would through [throw] the Kingdom into anarchy. As to voters he declared that every man in England who was not a scoundrel or a fool (I quote his very words) had the right to vote. To this tirade I replied. "I have not the presumption to defend or condemn Mr Cobden's statesmanship, of which you, as an Englishman, ought to be a better judge than I am, but excuse me Mr Browne, if I say you have yourself now said the most severe thing I have ever heard uttered with reference to England. According to your own statistics you have five or six millions of men in the British Kingdom of the proper age to vote. Out of these only one million have the legal right to do so - and you tell me

that all the remainder are scoundrels or fools!" My antagonist winced so pitiably under this that I laughingly added, 'I sha'n't take you literally Mr Browne, I can't think so badly of England as that.' We were interrupted here, perhaps fortunately by the entrance of Colonel and Mrs Mayhew - very nice people but a little priggish both. Amoriondo, chief judge of the courts here, and his pretty wife, a niece of the countess of Castagnet came in just after our tea, and made a short visit - Refined people, and interesting I dare say if we should ever get beyond the conventionalities of first acquaintance. Miss Arbesser came a little after nine and informed us that the Duchess had coolly appropriated our Paris en Amérique, - confiscated it for her own uses! This is an odd proceeding certainly, but I hope Majesty itself will get the reading of it by this means. Miss A__ says she has found another copy for us which she promises to send back speedily. I hope she will for the demand for it increases, and Mr Marsh means to get two copies more for circulation. Miss A__'s letters from Vienna she tells us are very desponding - the expectation of war in the Spring is so strong that their already disturbed finances are growing worse every day, and great anxiety and alarm prevails. She has just seen De Bunsen who admits that it is the probability of the withdrawal of the Prussian Legation from Turin in the Spring which has prevented Usudom from establishing himself here, and decided him to encamp temporarily at Pegli. The liberality which Miss Arbesser, as an

Austrian, shows towards Italy is most creditable to her. "With all my heart" she says "I wish this noble people may get their United Italy, they have earned it so well and at such a heavy price." Her dislike to the French in general and to the Emperor in particular is edifying. De Bunsen told her a story which professes to be one of the mischiefous Hume's late tricks upon Napoleon. At a recent private séance of the Emperor and a few of his friends, the former felt something very like a violent kick in the back. "Who is that?" said the Emperor to Hume. "Louis Philippe, sire" was the prompt reply. This is rather too good to be true. Friday 25th Christmas Our merry Christmas turned out rather sorry, than merry. We had been obliged to warn off our Christmas dinner-guests because I could not sit up long enough to be at the table, and this morning Mr Marsh found himself very feverish from a fresh cold, and Carrie was unable to lift up her head from her pillow from a disagreeable billious attack. We saw no visitors except the Kossuths whom Mr Marsh received by himself - Saturday 26th Carrie was able to be out again today, went to pay a visit to the Castagnets, and leave sundry cards for me. Unluckily she missed a visit from Miss Menabrea and Miss Bert both of whom came during her absence. After the Berts left I

had an hour and a half's visit from Count Gigliucci, a man of sense and spirit, but scarcely a match for his wife in these respects. We talked almost ex- -clusively of Italian and American affairs. I asked him if we should have a European war in the Spring. "Temo, temo," was his answer, "but for us it would be better if we could wait one more year." During our evening reading occurred the word scuriosirsi which amused us all, and made Mr Marsh remember a passage he had been reading during the day from Guliani's, Vivente Linguaggio della Toscana. page 200, second edition I quote it here, saying first that the oc- -casion of the prayer referred to, was a plague of beetles which were devouring the young chestnuts. When the pious procession formed to exorcise if possible these little evil spirits had arrived at the appointed place on the mountains the priest. 'fece una predica che tutti tremevamo; gridava con una voce più forte del tuono: "Mio Dio, mio Dio, Salvatemi il mio popolo, venga il gastigo addosso a me che sono il peccatore...mandate solo a me il vostro flagello. Se portate rispetto a questi sacri panni, ecco che io me ne spoglio", e si levò la stola e il camice. Misericordia! allora la gente ur- -lavano con dei pianti che spietravano i sassi...certe grida si sentivano rintronare per le selve che facevano pietà anco alle piante. O, che vuole? come s'era tornati a piè del monte il bruechi maledetti si staccavano dalle piante, facendo come de' fili di seta. Cascarono tutti, brulicavano in terra, che parea un mondo di formiche

Si vide subito che il Signore Benedetto ci aveva fatto la grazia. I castagni quell'anno si rivestirono più belli; e fecero una moltitudine di castagne, che non se ne videro mai tante. Negli anni dopo, non com- -parve più quel malanno. Creda, quel sacerdote ira proprio un vomo di Dio, faceva del bene assai.' Sunday 27th. We none of us went to church this morning all having bad colds or otherwise half laid up. Mr Marsh read two or three of Vincent's discourses and just at evening the Baroness Todros came in, Baron Poerio soon after. Mme Todros gave an amusing account of a dinner given by Mme Wyse Bonaparte in Paris at a time when her funds were low. Among other things the number of coffee-cups did not hold out, and coffee was served to some of the company in the lady's emptied pomatum-jars! Baron Poerio looks feeble and worn. His hardships as a captive begin to tell very decidedly on him, though for the first few years after his release the joy of freedom kept him bouyant and hid, temporarily the ravages his imprisonment had made on his constitution. He congratulated us so warmly on our brightened prospects that one could not doubt that it came from his heart. He told us that the Marchesa Doria (who has been at death's door within six weeks, and only within the last ten days has been rolled in an arm-chair from her bedroom to her drawingroom) was actually carried

by her servants to her box at the Teatro Regio on Christmas night! 'C'était l'evenement de la semaine' said Poerio with a smile that the lady could not have interpreted as a compliment. Monday 28th Mrs Tottenham brought Lucy early to spend the day, and, like a good kind friend as she is, gave me some very valuable hints about some persons we are likely to be thrown in with frequently this winter. With regard to one of the persons, the only one I have yet met, a single interview had brought me to pre- -cisely Mrs Tottenhams conclusions, and I had already put Mr Marsh and Carrie on their guard. / The Countess Ghirardi made me a most gracious visit, and brought the key of the box that we might hear the Opera tonight by passing through our own apartment into it as we used to do the first winter we were here. She gave me a long history of her vexations in trying to keep up the wealth and glory of the d'Angennes family, and would have talked till evening had not the Baron Visconti come in and cut her short. The old soldier, now in his 74th year is as erect and elastic as a ordinary man of 40. I had a long and pleasant talk with him, and after he left, had only time to go to the Library and tell Mr Marsh of the old gentleman's visit when the Baroness Gautier was announced with her two nieces. The Baroness herself never looked or appeared more lovely, but she was suffering much from debility, especially from pain in her eyes - those most beautiful of eyes. The young

Went to the Opera this evening at the D'Angennes theatre, Mme Ghirardi having most amiably sent us the key to our old box, but we were late being detained by the abbé, whose visits, however, are far more entertaining than such an Opera as we witnessed.

people talked English with each other, and the Gautiers did wonderfully well considering the long short time they have been taking lessons. While the Baroness was still with me Mme de Rothan came in, and I was glad to have two such women meet - a Protest- a Protestant and a Catholic, it would be difficult to find a more favourable specimen of each religion. Perhaps Mme de Gautier might once have had more personal beauty, but Mme Rothan has the advantage of youth and a far better education. The former is remarkably intelligent, has read considerable, and keeps up with the great political interest of the day, the latter adds to a first rate education that perfect intellectual balance which ought always to be the result of it, but so often is not. Her familiarity with the great writers of our day on Theology, Biblical Criticism & metaphysics made me ashamed of my own shortcomings, but all she said was so free from every thing like a consciousness of knowing more than others, so evidently the result of a deep sense of the infinite importance of the great questions discussed, of long & patient thought, of an earnest and almost enthusiastic looking forward to a new era for Christianity, an era which was to show it forth more gloriously than ever before, that one forgot her in her subject as she forgot herself. I am indeed happy to have made such an acquaintance - oh how unlike the English & American idea of a French woman!

Tuesday 29th. We had such a day of hurry & confusion, servants to be sent in so many directions &c &c. I shall be too thankful when these melancholy days are over. Surely our great Poet forgot Christmas & N. Years when he called our Autumn days 'the saddest of the year'! The dear old Marchese d'Arconati was almost the only visitor with whom I could have sat quietly for an hour as I did to-day without showing my impatience. Madame Piria & daughter took her place when she left, but did not stay long enough to wear off the charm of their delight- ful Italian, so I held out. Mr M. & C. went to a party at the Mayhews in the evening & alas, brought home a fresh list of visits to be made. Wednesday 30th The dancing-lesson was less well attended to day, the girls being tired out with last nights gaiety. Mad. Solvyns took C. to the Countess Calobriano's Fair to make my apology & take my donation to the Countess Salmour. The Countess Gigliucci sat with me during the dancing, and we had a nice talk. My first favourable impression of her is rather confirmed than shaken. She professes to be a very stiff Catholic, but at the same time ridicules the idea of what her Church calls unity, declares it to be not only impossible but undesirable, and thanks God that there are all sorts of dissenters! In fact I am afraid her catholicism wold would hardly save her from

the inquisition if that blessed institution were in full blast. I wish I had time to put down some of the many curious anecdotes she told me today, but at least I must record her testimony (, which is by no means the first one I have heard, and that from the best of sources) to the admirable character of the Hon. Mrs Norton, and her most unreserved conviction of her entire innocence of all the charges ever brought against her. She declares that this splendid woman was sacrificed by a brutal husband to the most vile and disgraceful of political intrigues. Dr Monnet came in in the evening and told us he had secured for our Piòbesan protégée another month at least in the hospital, that she is now well and wants nothing but a nutritious diet which she cannot have at home. The Dr is a jewel. Thursday. The Marquis Arconati and Melegari were among my afternoon visitors - both most hearty in their congratulations on the brightening prospects of our country. I have felt very ill all day and conclude now that Carrie is dressed for the Giletta party to take a Dover's powder, or good Mme Rocci's syrup, and go at once to bed.