From May 6th
to
September 22nd 1864
Saturday May 7th, 1864.
An [h]our before we expected to be off
for Saluzzo a gentleman from Massachusetts, employed
by the state as agent to get information to help on
the Hoosack tunnel, came in and furnished Mr
Marsh with work enough for two days. Luckily,
however he has the gift of despatch when hard
pressed, and before the carriage was at the door,
for us he had written some eight or ten letters
for the gentleman, given him cards of introduction,
and, in short, done everything possible to clear
the way for him and enable him to transact his
business at once. We reached Saluzzo about half
past three, and went off at immediately to see
the Casa Pensa, the famous triptyc in the chapel
of this house was taken from the old cathedral at
Mondovì, and is, indeed, almost a miracle. The
pictures within the first doors are very pleasing
and have a decided German look, but the
marvel appears when these, too, are opened. Such
a wonderful specimen of fine wood-carving taken
all in all, I have never seen. There are at least
seventy figures in the different compartments, many
of them most graceful in attitude and drapery,
and the various groups stand in niches, and
under canopies carved in the most beautiful
Gothic patterns. The whole is very richly gilded
and in a state of perfect preservation. That
both the painting and carving are from the hand
of German artists I should think there could be
no shadow of a doubt. We turned away from it
feeling that we were already more than repaid for
the little journey we had taken. The daylight lasted
long enough to allow us to see the church which
contains the fine tomb of the second Lodovico,
Marquis of Saluzzo, husband of Margaret de Foix.
The marble statue of the Marquis lying on his
sarcofagus, is a grand thing, and the rich stone
carving about the chapel delighted us exceedingly.
It was so chilly however in the church that on
brother Charles' account we were obliged to hurry
off sooner than we could have wished.
Sunday May 8th
After breakfast this morning we drove out
to the great castle of Verzuolo, the finest thing of
the kind I have seen in Italy, though no doubt
there are others quite equal to it. It was probably
built in the fifteenth century, and is still kept
in tolerable repair. The position is singularly beautiful.
A fine view of it is obtained from the road
as you approach and the steep
winding
avenue that
leads to it is very picturesque. From one side
of the castle there is the finest possible view of the
plain stretching far and wide below. On the
other side you seem to be in the very heart of
the mountains. The garden is beautiful, and
the large luxuriant laurels prove that the
climate here is not severe. The finest
single object here is a magnificent old tower
overgrown with the ivy of three-hundred years.
It would be worth a mountain of gold if it
could be set down on the banks of the Hudson.
We crossed the old iron draw-bridge and entered
the castle. The furniture is for the most part
very old, but not remarkably rich. A few old
bureaux of inlaid wood and some magnificent
state bedsteads richly gilded excited my cupidity.
There were many old family portraits, but generally
the pictures were execrable. Two large rooms,
one in each of the great octagonal towers,
called forth our livliest admiration, rather
from their capabilities than from what they
actually were. The view from each of them was
most beautiful. and such libraries as they would
make! We were told the family spend only
one month a year at this castle. Mr Marsh
and sat down in the open summer-house
listening to the birds and the fountains, while
brother Charles and Carrie explored the kitchen
and cellars. They reported the kitchen fireplaces
to exceed in size even the enormous ones we
had seen in the great dining-hall above. Thirty
huge wine-casks on either side of the cellar told
of high-living here in the olden time, but they
rang very hollow now, and the great iron rings
in the kitchen arch which once no doubt sup-
-ported mighty flitches of bacon and the like
served now only for show. We saw but a single
servant about the premises, though there are more
in all probability. We left the grand old place
with half a wish for such a home.
After dinner Mr Marsh and Charles took another
stroll, and among other things they found the house
in which Silvio Pellico was born with a marble
slab inserted on its front stating the fact. By the
way the statue of Pellico which stands on the square
is very fine, only it looks a little too priest-like.
Monday May 9th
We left for Paesana rather early
this morning, hoping the weather would allow
us to take mules there and go on to Crissolo for
the night. Delusive hope! The rain came on before
we had made half the distance to Paesana, and
we arrived at the wretched Corona
Gallo
wet and
disconcerted. The dining-room was forlorn, and the
bed-chambers forlorner. A bright fire in the former
and a little sweeping and a general change of
linen in the latter improved our prospects some-
-what, and a very fair dinner, enlivened by
a strong cup of tea nearly restored our usual
equanimity. We went to bed hoping to start
early for Crissolo.
Tuesday 10th May.
The roll was called very early
this morning with not very brilliant results.
I had not slept half an hour, partly perhaps
from a late cup of tea, but more from a bad
bed shared with very many troublesome companions.
Mr Marsh did little better, Carrie much the same,
and brother Charles made the most dismal report
of all. The weather looked a little doubtful, but
we were all disposed to try the experiment up
the valley, till it came to brother Charles' turn
to speak. For himself he decided against it, fearing
the effects of the wetting he might very possibly get
and
as
it was on his account th rather than our
own we wished to go we very readily gave it
up. It did not seem worth while to wait in
this wretched place for good weather, so we took
a bus (the only thing we could get) to Pinerolo,
which we reached soon after two, having encountered
both sun and shower. Mr Marsh telegraphed im-
-mediately for Gaetano who came up with the post
and returned the same evening.
Wednesday May 11th
The weather looking still very
doubtful we thought it best (especially as brother
Charles felt quite unwell) not to go to La Tour
as we had intended, but to wait one more day, in
the hope of brighter prospects. We spent most of
the day in a long drive up the Fenestrelle valley
till we came in sight of the famous fortress.
The valley is not particularly interesting for its scenery.
There are however some fine stone quarries, and
it was a curious sight to see all the workmen
lying about on the stone blocks with smaller bits
for pillows taking their noon nap as we went up. When
we came down everything was so changed. Hundreds
of hammers were pounding and chisels clicking, the
large blacksmith's shop was ringing with the sound of
the tool-sharpening, and altogether everything looked
as busy and bustling as the most zealous advocate
for progress could desire. We had no particular ad-
-ventures during our trip, and made but one stop
which was to gather a handful of narcissus in
a meadow, though I think brother Charles was
a little tempted by the sign of the Bonne Fame
a headless woman, very quaint. At dinner
a council was held, and it was settled that
in case of fine weather tomorrow, an early start
should be taken in the morning, Mr Marsh for
Turin, the other three to La Tour, there to
take mules for Pra del Tor, and a grand
rendez-vous was to take place at Pignerol again
on Friday morning, when we would set off for
Avigliana, in the hope of climbing the Saint-
Michel Saturday. If the weather was bad we
were all to return to Turin.
Thursday May 12th
The weather was bad, - very bad,
and we rang the bell at the Casa d'Angennes
before half past eight. It was delightful to see
from the polished wax floors and other unmis-
-takable symptoms, that if our excursion as a
mountain trip had been a fiasco we had at least
escaped that fearful period of confusion known as
"house cleaning" in New England. Mr Marsh found no
less than three calls apparently of consequence, had been made
upon him as Minister during his absence. The circumstance
however most regretable was that Madame Marini
died and was buried during our absence while we were
gone. The announcement of the hour of the funeral
did not arrive in time for Mr Marsh even to be
telegraphed in season to be present.
Friday May 13th.
The dinner at the Russian Ministers'
last night was not large but rather agreeable, several
of the members of the Ministry were there, and ex-
pressed themselves quite triumphantly about
Venosta's speech in Parliament yesterday.
The post brought me an interesting letter from
our friend Mr Tebbs with a ten pound subscription
for Mr Tottenham's proposed church. The Countess
Gigliucci made me one of her long charming visits.
I can see more and more of the artistic nature
in her, and can understand perfectly well that she
would be greatly disliked by those who should think
it worth while to contradict any of either her strong
opinions or her strong prejudices. For my own part
I sympathize with so much of what she believes
and thinks that I can very easily pass over in
silence any little point of difference. On the
subject of the war with Denmark she is positively
in a state of ebulition. To Mr de Bunsen, the
other day she said: "oh, I have a question to ask
you!" "Anything you please Madame, except about the
Schleswig-Holstein question." "Never you fear! I
cannot trust myself to speak upon that dirty subject!"
Saturday May 14th
We had a delightfully quiet day - finished
About's Progrès, and read some articles in the Revue
Cretienne - among others a notice of Rey's new book on
Italy, much praised.
Sunday May 15th
Carrie and I drove round to the Hôtel
d'Europe where we found Lady and Miss Estcourt safely
arrived and ready to go to church with us. At half past
five they came to us to dine, and pass the evening.
What unmingled pleasure it is to have such friends with
one. In the Estcourts we have often said that there is
absolutely nothing more to be desired. After nigh twenty
years acquaintance with Lady Estcourt and a dozen
with Miss Estcourt, seeing them in the most intimate
way, sometimes every day for months together, and several
hours of every day, I can truly say they have never once
given us a monent's pain by word or act. Their re-
-finement is without affectation, their culture without
pretention; and their ready, graceful wit has never a touch
of severity or malice.
Monday May 16th
A bad headache prevented me from going
with Mr Marsh and the Estcourts to the Exposition,
but I was well enough to welcome them on their
return, to be at the dinner-table, and to drive out
to the cemetery after dinner. The Estcourts were de-
-lighted as I knew they would be with Vela's statue
of Madame Collegno, also with many other monu-
-ments by him. The Gajanis, who had been in
for a moment during the day, came in to pass the
evening with us, Dr and Mme Monnet too, made
us an extempore visit, and Miss Arbesser came
at her usual late hour. We had a very pleasant
time, but I was so thoroughly tired out before twelve
at which time Miss A__ left me, that I could scarcely
speak from sheer exhaustion.
Tuesday 17th May.
Our friends were with us all day and
I was glad to have a chance to make them acquainted
with Mme Collegno. They fully endorsed my enthu-
-siasm for her. After dinner we drove out inten
intending to go to Pino to get a view from the top of
the collina, but before we were half way up the hill
one of our horses gave out. The rest of the party walked
on while I remained in the carriage for the horse
to recover. When they came back we were able to
return to town but no more. Our drive on the
whole proved a fiasco - still Monte Viso showed
himself in all his majesty. I never saw it grander.
The Estcourts had only time for a cup of tea before being
obliged to return to their hotel to be ready in time for
their early morning journey. As soon as they left us
we planned a surprise for them, by getting up
a little excursion to San Michele for tomorrow.
Wednesday 18th May.
At five o'clock we had taken our
coffee, and in a few minutes were all on our way
to the station, the morning having proved fine even
beyond our hopes. We were already seated in the
railway carriage before our friends saw us. The sur-
-prise looking was all we could have desired, Alex.
having taken good care 'not to let himself see'.
We all enjoyed the hour to Sant' Ambrogio intensely
- the Alps were overwhelmingly grand, and nobody
said anything about the parting till it came, and
was over in the brief moment that the train stopped
at the station. Alex. set about looking up mules,
and Carrie and I were soon furnished out. The one brought
for Charles was such a skeleton that Alex. sent him off. We
were mounted before eight, brother C. having already some
twenty minutes the start of us. Carrie's monture was
shipwrecked at an early stage of the ascent, and she was
obliged to take to her feet with the consolatory obser-
-vation from one of the party that a volunteer was more
honourable than a conscript. We reached the the [sic] church
of San Michele on the top of the height about ten o'clock
all very tired. The structure is an imposing one -
half castle, half sanctuary in its appearance. The
advantage taken of the natural rock, partly for external
wall, partly for staircases and other internal portions
of the building is very striking; most of the edefice
has been modernized by the repairs, but the original
great staircase and the arch under which it ter-
-minates, as well the arch leading into the great
chapel are of the tenth century. They are very inte-
-resting of course, but portions of them are in so ruinous
a condition that they may be expected to tumble down
at any moment. There is a most curious old
Gothic
tomb
of an abbot in the chapel which I wished much
to look at longer, but Mr Marsh found the air so damp
and chill after his severe climb that I did not like
to keep him. Several members of the House of Savoy
are buried here, but their tombs were of no special
interest. This sanctuary is now the home of some
dozen Rosminians, an order established by the
great Rosmini, and, as he thought, more in accordance
with the spirit of the age than those already existing.
The good brothers had nothing to offer us but a cup
of coffee and a few grissini, and, for a wonder, they
would accept nothing for it. The place is much frequented
in summer, and a large party of noisy French men and
women showed that the season had already begun.
Some twenty minutes below the Sanctuary on our way
down, we found a little Albergo where we got
bread, cheese, a young chicken, and a bottle of wine.
It was pleasant here, under the roof that protected us
from the sun, and we lingered till the heat of the
day was past. At Sant' Ambrogio we dined comfortably
and were at the station in abundant time for the
evening train from Susa. A cup of tea was waiting
for us at our cheerful home, and we were all
tired enough to make a short evening afterwards.
Thursday 19th May
With the exception of the Tottenhams
we had no visitors, but Mr Marsh and Carrie went
out to pay some.
Friday 20th May.
The Countess Rocci tells me that her
cousin, our unhappy landlady, has broken with her
so completely that she does not even speak to her -
the cause of the indignation being that she (the Countess
Rocci) had gone over to the enemy. 'And who are the
enemy?' I asked. "Her husband, her daughter and
her daughter's husband," was the answer - . Once
more all Italy is agog with the hourly expectation of
the pope's death.
Saturday May 21st
During Mme de Bunsen's long visit
this morning she told me a sad story of the Cisterna
family, which has been hushed up as much as possible
and kept especially close from strangers. We had heard
nothing of them since their retirement to the country after
the death of the Prince, and the good abbé's allusions
to the strange old-world doings going on there. The
princess, half maddened by her bigotry, was not
content with keeping the body of the Prince un-
-buried for many days, and constantly surrounded by
priests saying masses, but she obliged her two daughters
to remain in the same room both night and day,
and to take even the little food allowed them in the
same place. The eldest,* about sixteen, who seems to
have not a little of the Merode in her, bore it tolerably
well, but the younger, a child of thirteen, became nervous
and distressed to the last degree, and finally implored
her mother on her knees to allow her to leave the
the apartment, saying at the same time that she could
not endure it, that it would certainly kill her. The
mother however, not only refused, but forced her to
kiss the lips of her father just before the coffin was
closed at the end of six days! The poor girl obeyed,
but sickened immediately, and in a few days the
wish she had expressed to her mother while suffering
from her intolerable tyranny - 'oh, that I were with
my father instead of being here with you' was
realized. During her short illness not even her
guardians were allowed to see her, on the ground
that the time had not yet expired for the family to
receive even their intimate friends with propriety.
I could not have believed this story had not
Madame de Bunsen received it from unquestionable
sources. Quite early this morning we went to see
the yearly exposition of pictures, and found as usual
plenty of red tape to vex us. The ridiculous regulation
forbidding one to return to a room once visited prevented
us from being able to compare certain pictures with
one another as we wished to do in order to decide about
making a few purchases. The visiting the sick, The teaching
the ignorant, two pictures by Scherer, tempted us a
good deal but we could not go back to reexamine them
without buying a new set of tickets and entering again at
the principal entrance! Had it been a place much
visited, there might have been a show of excuse for this
severe discipline, but there were not six persons there
besides ourselves, and it is simply a shoot from
one of those old roots of the Dark Ages of which George Sand
speaks so feelingly. We were greatly struck by a por-
-trait of the King in pen and ink, made by an attaché
of the Peruvian Legation - a young man of about twenty
who has had no instruction whatever. He is of Indian
origin by the mother's side, and the Peruvian gov't
have been wise enough to send him to Italy expressly
for the purpose of giving him an opportunity to
cultivate his most extraordinary talent. His
name is, I think illegible
Tinajeros.
The exposition is on
the whole not very creditable to the artists of Northern
Italy.
Sunday May 22nd
While the Kossuths were with
us after church, Mr Medina of the Peruvian Le-
-gation came to see us, and surprised us with his
very good English. It is curious to see recognize in
every one who comes from the New World a
certain indescribable freshness, freedom from
conventionality, and abhorrence of all petty tyrannies.
we found our young Peruvian friend not less irritated
than ourselves at the ridiculous regulations of the
esposizione. The Kossuths diverted us as usual
by their comic mixture of simplicity and knowledge
of the world. The Countess Maggiolini passed the
evening with us, so that we had not much of
a Sunday to ourselves.
Monday May 23rd
Madame de Bunsen brought her
sweet baby at a very early hour this morning, and
Commodore Aulick who was here before her
went back to the Hôtel to fetch the little Stouts.
I was disposed to feel an interest in the children
as doubly orphans, but the eldest managed in the
first five minutes to make herself thoroughly re-
-pulsive. The mixture of self-conceit and ill-temper
she exhibited were enough to spoil a dozen children.
'You are all happy to go home, I suppose' I said. "No, I
do not wish to go home." 'You have been in Italy
so long [illegible]
then that
it is hard for you to part
from your young friends.' "I have no young friends,
and I do not wish to have any, and I do not
intend to have any. I have already been deceived".
I could not help laughing outright at the absurd af-
-fectation of the child, then said: 'But it is a great pity for
you not to have friends, one is never happy in this world
without them.' "Oh I'm very happy - besides I have friends
enough among older people, married ladies and so on,
but I don't like those of my own age, they are so silly."
Margaret Trotti brought a beautiful note from the Countess
Collegno, with the present of a
biograph-
sketch of her husband by
Massino d'Azeglio - most interesting to us - We had sent
her Mr Winthrop's & Mr Marsh's notices of Gen. Estcourt.
The Countess Babbo is said to be at the point of death -
She is greatly beloved, and will be greatly lamented. Mar-
garet told me, in proof of her great kindness of heart,
that she refused to receive the last consolations
of the Church last evening for fear the news of her
being so low might keep some of her friends from a
large ball and so occasion a disappointment to
them & their hostess. It was with much difficulty
that she was persuaded to give up these scruples
and only after the assurance of her physicians that
the morning might be too late. I mention this
only to show from what different points of view
certain subjects may be regarded, not to censure
this truly noble woman. The Peruzzis came while
we were dining. The little Pallecelo read to me an hour -
I don't see what is to become of her - poor thing
Tuesday May 24th
Miss Arbesser was here very
early to tell me of the illness of the Princess Margaret
to get information about Miss Müller etc. - the Aulicks
came again & visit followed visit almost till dinner
I am sometimes weary of all this to a degree and
especially on days like this when most of my visitors
are empty and my own heart is so full - we have
just heard of the terrible battles between Grant & Lee on the 6 and to
the 11th. I should not however count Miss Arbesser
among the empty (though she is certainly very flighty)
nor the Countess Pasolini, who belongs to the Arconati
circle, and was today, as she always is, most charming.
Miss Arbesser told me one court anecdote which had
much amused her, but at which I felt my smile to be a
forced one. It had become known unofficially by the
Maison d'Instruction, that the physician to the prince
and princess was about to be married, and some one
had remarked in the presence of the little prince
that the promised bride was no longer young, that she
had false teeth etc. A few days later the physician
himself came to announce
his engagement
formally to his royal
charge. The prince replied: "Ma signor dottore, la
vostra sposa non è più giovane, - ha i denti
finti!" Young Aulick brought the eldest Stout
again this evening, and she appeared much better.
She is quick-sighted and very likely discovered that
her nonsense did not impress as she expected.
Wednesday May 25th
Brother Charles left us this morning for a
tour to the South. When Mr Meille came in I begged
husband to take my place and receive him as I felt so
thoroughly tired, but he wished me to make Mr Meille an
exception, and go in, which I did, and was of course over-
-taken by other visits and kept nearly three hours. I got
some comfort out of it however, by having a good half-
-hour's railing at the conduct of the Austrians and
Prussians in their behaviour towards Denmark, old Madame
Browne furnishing the strophes and I joining in the chorus.
The Countess Gigliucci brought a nice note from
Mrs Somerville with very kind messages for us, and
promises of photographs etc. for the Sanitary.
The Gajanis were with us in the evening, Gajani
himself being full of a scheme for joining with
Col. Gowan in a search after petroleum in Italy.
Thursday May 26th
More news from America - the great battle of
the 12th favorable to the Union cause - thank God. But
oh this frightful loss of life! - It being Corpus Domini
we were left to ourselves all day. The quiet was most
refreshing, but would have been more enjoyed had we
been sure of it beforehand. Dear Mme Collegno,
with Rita, spent a long evening with us - saintly soul!
We read this morning d'Azeglio's sketch of Gen. Collegno -
most eloquent & beautiful - also the Gen's most interesting
diary of the siege of Navarino. Mme Collegno
may well feel with Tennyson Tis better etc,
I could not help telling her that to have lived 18
years the beloved companion of such a man was
worth a thousand ordinary lives.
Friday May 27th
The rain did not keep Mrs Tottenham
from us - otherwise the morning was quiet. Our reading
today was Collegno's Journal of the Siege of Navarino &
Phillip von Artevelde. We have met with no less
than five
six
old acquaintances in the Gen's journal -
Mad. Collegno gives an amusing account of Kalergi's [Kallergis']
coming to her for a copy of Gen. Collegno's Diary!
Dr Millingen, Churchill, Kalergi, Macri-Jami, Suleyman Bey -
Mari - most of them we found the same in character
as when Collegno parted from them.
Saturday 28th
We have bad news from our army this
morning, but we hope it is an invention of the enemy.
Went out for a little shopping and came back in time
to see & comfort my unfortunate Venetian protegee,
The good Duchess Bevilacqua & Marchese del
Careto have stepped in to give her a lift.
The Countess Castellani and her pretty Inez were with us
when Rustem Bey came in - Poor man, I should hardly
have known him. His grief for the loss of his mother is as
genuine as his love for her was engrossing and untiring. It
is interesting to see how completely his conventionalism has
dropped from him, and of how deep feeling he is capable.
When I remember that this man is one of the most
thorough devotees to mere form that I have ever seen, I
grow charitable and half believe that there is a heart
at the bottom of this great formal world. Mr Artoni
dined with us - the Countess Collegno took Carrie to drive
on the Piazza later, and we were peacefully in bed by ten.
Sunday 29th
Only Mr Marsh went to church. I did
not feel very well, and Carrie stayed with me, and
read me the details of that awful battle - week from
the fifth to the twelfth inclusive: This slaughter
is really too dreadful. God grant it may not be all in vain.
What shall we hear next? Mr Valerio came in and talked
with us an hour. He is hopeful, and does not believe much
in the unfavourable rumors. He told us an odd story of his
having obtained from the proper authorities permission to
land a hundred barrels of petroleum in each of two
lighters - that in loading these lighters 99 barrels were put
on one, and 101 on the other - that he was called
to an account for this by some the one missing on the
first boat, and when he stated that it would be
found on the other, he was fined, first for the minus
of the first load, and secondly, for the plus on the second.
We discussed the Sanitary Commission, and he said what
many others have said here before, nothing could be done
with such a charity on this side of the water. It would
be entangled and suffocated by red-tape before it was
a week old. Our lovely friend, the Countess Gautier
surprised us by a visit, and still more by her worn
and wasted appearance. She has been ill almost ever
since she was here before, and I am afraid the whispers
about heart-disease have only too much foundation.
I cannot see that she has much to live for however,
and she seems good enough for a better place.
Monday May 30th
Mr Marsh went out with Carrie to pay
some visits - otherwise we had an unbroken day to
ourselves.
Tuesday 31st.
In bed all day; and a rainy one at that.
Carrie at the Tottenhams. Too dark for much reading in
my room, so that I was necessarily left to my own
meditations.
Wednesday June 1st.
Still in bed all day - missing in consequence
Dr Butler who is just arrived from Rome. The Arconati
and Rothan I might have received in my bed-room, but
felt too weak and ill to talk, so lost their visits too, also
Mrs Mayhew's and I don't know how many others.
Thursday June 2nd
A letter from Mr Clay saying he has
been illegible ill in Rome. Poor fellow! I'm afraid he won't
get much pleasure out of his trip. Another miserable
day for me, but luckily the rain prevents me from
being made nervous by visits I can't receive. Dr
Butler who was to have dined here today, was unex-
-pectedly obliged to leave at five o'clock. The abbé
came in in the early part of the evening to announce
his safe arrival from Paris after a two-months'
absence. Mr Marsh reports him in good health and
spirits, and full of interesting matter.
Friday, June 3rd
Mr Marsh went to pay some visits
that were crying out against us - among others, to
Mme Solvyns who spoke severals times during his
visit
stay
& even quoted some lines from Taylor's desc.
description of Como where they are to spend the
summer. Rustem Bey he found ill in bed.
Talking with Mrs Mayhew about the hard fate of
the poor here, forced to live in the garrets of
these lofty palaces, without fire in winter & suffocated by
the heat in summer, obliged to carry water & every thing
else up so many flights of stairs etc - the lady replied
"But do you not think it safer for the Government that the
poor should live in this way in the garrets of the rich
than that they should have houses in quarters by them-
selves? Would they not then meet together to talk over
political subjects, and so get uneasy and turbulent?
And might not such a person as Garibaldi then
easily stir them up to mischief." I should like to
have seen how Mr Marsh took this, but he says
he tried to answer her as a lady should be answered
though he could not help telling her that 'no good
Government could possibly need to take such measures
for its own safety, that he saw no reason why the
poor should not talk over their wrongs together as
well as the rich their rights, and furthermore that
for his own part he would trust Garibaldi to
wrong neither rich nor poor.
Niccolini lectured to-night on La via per andare
a Romo - the Matteuccis sent us tickets to
dispose of if we could. We took ten & gave
away as many of them as we could. Mr Matt.
sent me also his Lectures.
Saturday June 4th
Dressed to-day for the first time
since Monday, but find it hard work to [illegible]
walk steadily. Saw no one till after dinner
then had visitors all the evening - went to bed
tired & nervous and not to sleep.
Sunday June 5th
It seems little like sunday to-day. At an
early hour the whole city was astir, the military
collecting etc. It is the Festa of the Statuto & the Review
is expected to be finer than usual. Mr Marsh and
C. have gone to the balcony of the Ministero &
every servant is in the street except those neces-
sary to protect the house. I have just returned
from our back-terrace from [where] I had a view of his
Majesty as he passed through the Piazza
amidst the shouts of the multitude. O Victor Emanuel
had ever king such a chance to work a great work
as you! And yet alas how unequal the man to the
position. Educated to feel himself above those moral obli-
gations admitted to be binding on ordinary men, given up
to selfish pleasures, he is letting slip the most glorious
opportunity to build up a great nation. If fighting could
make his Italy none could make it better than he - &
the re galantuomo too he will always be - but
sacrifice his own personal tastes
in order
to learn the wants of his
subjects at Naples, at Florence, at Milan, to pour over
histories & political economies & treatises on Religious
liberty etc - not he! 'I have given you a Constitution'
he says practically, 'govern yourselves by it as best
you can & don't bother me about it!' According
to Miss Arbesser the princess Margaret has different views
When told of the flight of the emperor of Austria from Vienna
in '48, the princess, then nine years old, said, "aber
er hat sehr schlecht gethan! Ein König sollte nie sein
Volk verlassen!" Er lebt nicht für sich selbst!"
And here I must insert another princely anecdote - The
Duchess of Parma, so lately departed in the richest odour
of sanctity, said to the Duchess of Genoa, soon after the
her - Parmas -
[illegible]
- marriage with the brutal Duke of Parma -
"Mais, ma chère amie, qui voulez-vous! J'avais deja
vignt-cinq ans, et j'aurais epousé le diable même
plustot [plutôt] que de ne pas me marier." Poor woman! she
did the next thing to it. Mr Marsh came back from
the Review before it was over, leaving Carrie to the
care of Madame Collegno, who brought her back an hour
later in the finest spirits. Altogether it was a brilliant
affair - Soon after dinner Mrs & Miss Cleveland, our
old friends of '61 at Trombetta's, came in. We were quite
thrown off our equinimity by the pleasure of seeing them,
and we talked for an hour and a half like mad, as
Robert Browning says. Heaven will indeed be a blessed
place if it is made up of the like of these - After they went
away my head was in the greatest confusion, partly from
what I had learned from, or told to, them, and partly
from the things I had forgotten to ask or to tell. Mr
Marsh walked back to the Hotel with them, - then
came the hour for lighting up, and the Crown, the
scutcheon of Savoia, and the V.V.E. were soon blazing
away over our balcony, supported by a line of red
white and green lights extending to the theatre
on one side, and around to the Via del Moro on
the other. It was really very pretty, and we beat
the Frenchman, as Mr Marsh and Carrie triumphantly
asserted, after making a personal reconnaissance.
He, the Frenchman illuminated only with his
own colors, red blue and white, which did not
fail to call forth uncomplimentary ejaculations from
the groups in the streets. The public buildings generally
were very handsomely illuminated especially the
Palazzo Madama, the front of which seemed wreathed
by an immense garland composed of smaller
garlands, and within each of these a bouquet of
flowers, red green and white.
Monday June 6th
While Mr Rogers of Naples was
with us Mrs and Miss Cleveland came again - and
again we talked at high pressure for another hour. I
am so grieved that they cannot stay longer. The
papers this morning give us the news of poor Hawthorne's
sudden death. What changes we shall find if we ever
live to return to our country. I was just flattering myself,
after Mme Arconati and Mme Matteucci left me,
on being in luck today in having only agreeable visits,
when young Master Day, once of Norwich, now of
New York, was announced. He had preluded his visit
by a flourish of trumpets from Naples, so that we
were not wholly unprepared. This young gentleman,
of the genus snob, species copperhead, was so full
of himself, the attentions he had received on board
the Re Galantuomo and at Naples, that it was
really pityably ludicrous to listen to the account he
gave of the tributes rendered to the "intrepid young
American." We listened with what patience we might
to such an overflow of vanity and folly as one rarely
meets with even in young men of his tender years -
but when he asked me if I still kept up my
interest in N.Y. society etc, I answered, and I felt
my cheek hot at the moment, that of course I could not
fail to feel the strongest interest in my own country
at such a moment as this; but that so far as the
mere social life of N.Y. was concerned I could feel
little but mortification at the discredit thrown upon us
abroad, by its extravagance and frivolity - Our youngster
looked a little hit, and then stammered out an expression
of a belief that "the best pepople in N.Y. were now beginning
to wake up." I had opened the flood-gates, and it
was now very easy for me to say - 'As to that I think
the best people of N.Y. have waked up long ago, but
it is hard to believe that there is anything there so poor
that it will not be roused now." Our young friend changed
the subject, and began to talk again about European
society, etc. etc. etc. and I took occasion to tell him that
an American who wished to obtain any social position
abroad must do so by a manly and independent maintenance
of those principles which distinguished us as a nation -
that every country-man or woman of ours who thought to
gain credit in Europe by phrases like these (which
I had often heard) - "our republicanism after all, is
only theoretical - there is as distinct a division of classes
with us as in Europe - the best families do not - etc etc"
every one who talks in this way is, and deserves to be, set
down as a snob. Such persons may be treated civilly to
their faces, but they are invariably the subjects of rid-
-icule and contempt - I was almost startled at
having gone so far, when Mr Marsh reassured me
by saying - "No American has ever held a higher social
position in Europe than Charles Sumner, and he
obtained it by a noble and fearless defence of the largest
human liberty - by always showing himself a thorough
American, gentlemanly in his bearing to all, and subservient
to none." When our visitor took his leave husband
laughed very heartily at what I had said, and added, -
"our letters went to their address -" But I am afraid
braying will be lost on a young man who was asked to
be photographed forty five times in Naples in the course
of a few days, and who received one hundred and
ninety-six visiting cards in the same incredibly short time.
Tuesday June 7th
The intrepid Mr Day sent in a card
to Mr Marsh quite early this morning to inform him
that at half past twelve he should call to take
him to pay a visit to his friend Capt. Tsola. !
Mr Marsh happened, by fortune to be out, or
the young man might have received an unexpected
answer. Somehow or other he met his friend Capt.
Tsola, who, having more sense of propriety than him-
-self, proposed to come and make a visit to Mr
Marsh instead of staying at home to receive him.
The latter had not yet returned from the Ministers
when the Capt. and his quondam guest presented
themselves. I received the Capt. graciously of course,
and Mr Day as stiffly as I well could and be civil.
The conversation being in French in which our young
friend couldn't show to the best advantage, he
was kept reasonably under. I did not fail to
speak to the Captain of the life and death struggle
going on in our country, and of the sacrifices that
were making on the part of her sons to save her.
They took their leave without making a long visit,
and the intrepid American looked somehow or other
very quiet. I had no other visitors except the always-
welcome Gigliuccis. The races, to which Carrie was
to have gone with Countess Collegno were spoiled
by a heavy shower, which also filled the gaz-tubes,
and extinguished the grand illumination which was
to have been. A great disappointment among the
thousands who have come in from the country.
Wednesday June 8th
This evening Mr Day favoured us again,
and this time he really showed considerable tact. His last
two visits had taught him something of his ground, and
he avoided collision very dexterously. He told us he was
to receive the order of S. S. Maurizio e Lazzaro as a reward
of merit, and asked if there was any impropriety in doing
so. I should have mentioned that Mr Clark of Milan
breakfasted with us, and made a favourable impression
as to the good judgment with which he would be likely
to conduct operations there.
Pauline Benedetti, for several days after awakening
from her strange & fearful sleep, gave great hope of
final recovery, then rapidly lost again the strength she
had regained and her second death was reality.
Thursday 9th
Some Georgia boys, who have been at
school in Geneva called here this morning to get
passports renewed etc. Poor fellows! They made no
grimace at the oath of allegiance, but I'm afraid
it went hard. I could not help being sorry for them,
for, whether Union or rebels it must be melancholy to
them to think of their state now. Thanks to these
showery afternoons we have had little company for a
couple of days, and it almost seems like the quiet of
the dear old Castle. Marguerite came to see Carrie,
but I had no visits. Young Day came in to say goodbye.
Friday 10th June.
An important business-letter from Mr
Edmunds in answer to one I wrote him little more
than a month ago. The home-news is of so anxious a
character that we scarcely breathe between despatches.
Carrie paid some visits today to the Castagnettas etc, and
picked up a good deal of neighbourhood news, among other
things the fact that Miss Benedetti had been very ill
and at one time fell into so deep and terrible a lethargy
that her death was announced even by letter to distant
friends. She revived however, and at last accounts
was better. With some friends in the evening the
conversation turned on the English, and English politics.
Husband said "Les Français aiment à être gouvernés
par leurs supérieures, mais les Anglais aiment à
être méprisés par le leurs."
Saturday June 11
Mr Bing of Smyrna paid
us a long morning visit, and the Baroness Gautier
and Countess Collegno filled up the rest of the time
till dinner. I am always the better morally and
intellectually for a long talk with either of these
two ladies, and I bade the latter goodbye for a
month with real pain. She goes to the sea for
bathing. Mr Bing dined with us and told us
much about the East and Eastern acquaintances.
The rascalities of Offley and Dainese formed a
part of his theme. Mr Bing is a man of unusual
talent and attainment, sees everything with a clear
and judicious vision, but his capacity for talking
outruns even his other remarkable qualities. He left
us only a little before eleven, after having been listened
to for five hours and a half; add the hour and a
half in the morning and it foots up seven!
The abbé Baruffi diverted Mr Marsh and Carrie
from their duties to our dinner-guest for half an hour,
but I had no release. If there must be such talkers
however it is a blessing when they are gifted otherwise
like our friend Bing.
Sunday June 12th [Image]
In spite of the shower in the early
part of the afternoon, the illumination proved a
grand success tonight. The Via di Pò was
one gorgeous arch of light, and the great Stella
d'Italia shone out magnificently on the
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Of the tens of thousands
in the streets every one seemed cheerful but quiet. There
was no drunkeness, no noise, no rowdyism of any
kind. Indeed there are such contradictions in
the character of this people, that I sometimes feel
myself even more ignorant of them than before
I came among them. Here is the whole
population of a city afloat at night with a very
small police, and scarcely noticeable anywhere
- still all is order, and no one complains of insult
or robbery. And yet in this same city a young lady
is not safe to walk ten rods by herself in broad
day-light. One of my best friends in Turin told me
two days ago that for a little time she had the
habit on returning from a walk with her niece
to leave the young lady at the foot of her own staircase
to go up to the second piano by herself, when she, the
aunt, wished to pay more visits, or to extend her walk.
This fact was noticed by some scoundrel, who watched
his opportunity, secreted himself behind one of the landings,
and when the young lady was going up alone, sprang
out upon her, caught her in his arms, and she
escaped from him only by succeeding with a sudden
effort, in reaching a bell which she knew where to find,
and which summoned the servants. The vilain
however was off as a matter of course before any
one had the presence of mind enough to seize him.
One difficulty seems to be that an infamous
act like this is not regarded as a crime, and a
The Duchess has been roused to indignation by
finding that a letter written by her last Spring
to a friend in Vienna and sealed with her own
ducal seal, was detained at the Post Office here from
political suspicion. This is worthy Austria itself,
and I am utterly ashamed.
young man who should be detected in it would
not be disgraced.
Monday June 13th
Mr Bing favoured us with a
couple of hours more this morning - merits and
demerits as before. Miss Arbesser came after dinner
with a charming budget of gossip as usual. The sum
and substance of a part of it was that the young Castiglione
bride from America had not the brightest prospects
before her. She wishes us to try to give a certain
Herr Ritter, a protégé of hers, a lift in the way of
helping him get out an opera at which he has been
labouring in vain for six years past - Italia risorta
is the title of his work which she thinks rather en-
-thusiastic than patriotic on his part. The
Marchesa Arconati is looking into the music
a little to see whether to take hold of it. The
more I know of this remarkable woman,
(the Arconati) the more I am filled
with admiration. Brilliant she is not
in the least, but there is such an extraor-
-dinary breadth and depth about her, &
a more than Roman firmness of purpose
with an individuality the most independent
that I have ever met in my life. I love
the Collegno best, but I look with reverent
awe on the Arconati. The Gajanis brought
in Cerotti, generalissimo of Engineers, whose
acquaintance Mr Marsh was very glad to make.
"Je voudrais savoir si toute l'histoire des
Lances of Lynwood est véritable. Je
voudrais savoir si le bon et généreux
Gaston d'Aubrîcourt le Squire a vraiment
existé. Et qui était le petit Lord Edward
car dans l'histoire on dit que le Black
Prince n'a eu qu'un fils le roi Richard II"
(Copy of queries put by the Princess Marguerite
of Savoy to Miss Sewell)
The Seraphic Castillia also joined our little circle.
Tuesday June 14th
A spring-like day of wind and shower.
No visitors except the Russian chargé, Count
Osten Sachen and his wife, born Princess Galitzin
- thorough people of the world, no sharp corners of course.
On the whole I think they will be quite an accession
to the Diplomatic Circle, though the Countess herself
is in very delicate health.
Wednesday June 15th
Our days are almost entirely
swallowed up by reading letters and papers from
home and in breathless watching for telegrams etc.
but it is idle to try and record occupations or emotions
like these. Thursday June 16th
We had nothing
but neighbourhood visits today, and in fact every thing
looks like a thorough breaking-up of city life. Miss
Arbesser made a long evening with us - They are
to leave early in the week. She gives us so much
information about court-life that it really begins to
seem very natural. The little princess sent me
some queries with a request that they should be
transmitted to Miss Sewell of whose books she
is a passionate admirer. The questions are naive
and charming in the highest degree. Prince Amedeo
graces the ball at the Valentino this evening,
and I was rather pleased to learn with what
rapidity his royal highness made his toilette
for the occasion. He was sitting in a cherry-tree,
in the garden of the palace, which he had climbed
to get some cherries for his cousins of Genoa,
when his valet informed him that it wanted
but ten minutes of the time when his carriage
had been ordered for the ball. The Prince
jumped down from the tree, sprung to his chamber
and in the ten minutes afterwards descended the
great staircase and entered his carriage en grande
toilette.
Friday June 17th
Mr Castillia brought Miss
Jane Sedgwick to us this morning on her way
over Mont Cenis America-ward. She was very
tired and we tried to stay her with flagons and
comfort me [her?] with apples. Poor thing! If she bears
the journey from Genoa so badly I don't see how
she is ever to get to Paris - After dinner we drove
out with her to show her the few lions we have,
and were fortunate enough to meet the Duchess
and her daughter, Prince Amadeo driving his
own establishment, and all the little remnant
of haute société still left in town. The
mountains didn't look their best but were
respectable, and altogether I think Turin
made a favourable impression on our new
acquaintance. I was bid to be prepared
to find her very odd, but we all decided
that she was less so than the one from whom
we received the hint. Mr Castillia devoted
himself entirely to her, Mr Valerio came in to
say a goodbye, Alexander managed to get her
ticket changed so that she can stop more
frequently than is usual if she likes, we made
her up a little package of eatables with a tiny
flask of wine, and I hope she may get over
the mountain without being ill, though I
feel very anxious about it. During the course
of the afternoon Madame Solvyns and her
mother were an hour with us. They give
very bad accounts of Madame Rothan's health
which quite distressed me. Such women as she
are greatly wanted now.
Saturday 18th
The Marchesa Arconati came
to bid me goodbye before going to the sea shore. She
had been out to their podere near the Zicino, &
returned much depressed at the prospect of the
silk. The Marchese had taken much pains to
get the semenza, as they call it, from Walacchia,
sending thither a most trustworthy person to
watch the progress of the worms from their first
appearance on the butterfly-state selecting only
the eggs of such as had appeared perfectly vigorous
from beginning to end. This semenza he had
divided up among friends in Lombardy,
Piedmont and Tuscany. In about half the cases
the worms have done well - the remainder have
failed entirely. This would seem to fix the disease
on the trees or in local atmospheric influences; another
fact however looks quite in a contrary direction.
All the semenza brought from Japan where-
-ever distributed has succeeded perfectly. The
Marchesa tells me that Lombardy will be
ruined if this continues much longer. All those
portions of it not capable of irrigation, and known
as the terre asciutte are now grown over with
mulberries and thus far it has been found im-
-possible to turn them to any other account.
Indian corn, she says, yields in those districts
only six-fold which of course does not pay for
cultivation. She says that already great distress
prevails even among proprietors on account of the
failure of the silk crop, and that the prospects
of the poor are still worse. The Baroness Todros
brought us very sad news - the death of poor
Pauline Benedetti. Her parents are said to be
utterly overwhelmed, and I can believe it well,
for there were never more fond and devoted
parents
Sunday June 19th
After we returned from church
the Countess Gigliucci made me a long visit -
as usual full of lively anecdote and overflowing
with practical wisdom and quaint humour
She told me a droll story of one Tommy Wills's
book on Italy. The weather is getting really
summer-like at last, and one can luxuriate
in cold water and thin dresses.
Monday June 20th
Nothing of special interest to record
for today. Col. Mayhew paid us a long visit but
otherwise we had no interruptions from our
usual occupations. I smuggled Carrie into a close
carriage to leave cards in my name for the
Osten Sachens. Brother Charles writes from Bologna
that he goes on to Venice. The Gajanis spent the
evening with us, and are cheerful about home
affairs in spite of telegrams which they disbelieve.
Mrs Gajani brought me from Miss Haines
a photograph of Mrs Kirkland taken the day
before her death, and, strange to say, asserted
to be the only one ever taken of her -
Tuesday June 21st
C. went to Miss Arbesser this
evening where she had a very pleasant time, saw
the dear little princess and her dog again, and
received from the little royal highness the offer
of some of her books to read, which was accepted
of course - Miss A__. came back with Carrie at
half past nine and staid with us till eleven.
It is quite touching to listen to her talk about
her royal pupil. No mother could be fonder. As
I listened to the child's praises I could not
help thinking of the sad fate that had befallen
so many innocent young creatures in her position.
We had been reading only today the letter, recently
published for the first time, of the poor dying
Queen Caroline Matilda of Denmark to her
brother in England. Alas, who can feel anything
but pity for a royal child of the weaker sex - es-
-pecially if, like our sweet princess, her religion
necessarily excludes her from a marriage with
a Protestant prince. It would be some comfort
if she could become the wife of a son of Prince
Albert - but I suppose she must fall into the
hands of some German brute or Spanish zealot.
Miss A__. told some curious stories about the
practice of Dr Weber in two or three of the convents
in and near Turin. The doctor declares that
they are in extreme poverty and misery as a
general rule, and he has himself, with the consent
of the King raised money enough by a subscription
to furnish one of them with some fireplaces or
stoves. He declares that during the whole of the
last terrible winter the poor nuns of the
Sacramenti had never once a fire by which
to warm themselves even for an hour, that in
consequence of this and their self-imposed penances
their health had suffered frightfully. They seem to
be very grateful to this protestant doctor, and
three weekly services are held for the express
purpose of bringing about his conversion. A
well-known countess here has written him a
letter to express her admiration of the services
he has rendered to these poor daughters of the true
church, and by way of testifying her interest in
his own conversion she proposes to give him
her niece for a wife as the surest way of bringing
about an event so desirable. She is willing to
risk, it appears, the safety of the soul of her niece
for the chance of saving that of the amiable heretic.
A capucino too is also labouring for the same good
end, and when Miss A__. asked the Dr how the
conversion was progressing, he answered: " admirably
admirably - I shall have the good father over in
about fourteen days."
Wednesday June 22nd
The Count and Countess Castiglione,
the happy couple just from America came, bringing
letters from Mrs M. O. Paine. I was really glad to
find that the new Castiglione is a niece of my old
friend. May the match turn out happier than most
such do. The lady is rather pretty - decidedly New York
in her manners, and her husband has contracted
during his eighteen months stay in America an
unmistakable New World air. Gossip says that
his father who was half mad and half wicked mal-
-treated his Genevan wife to such an extent that
the King interfered - (Carlo Alberto, of course) - took
her away from him and put the daughter, the
present Countess della Rocca into a convent that
she might be in better keeping than either of her
parents were likely to afford her. The old lady
is still living - a Protestant by education, Catholic
from a matrimonial conversion. The Gigliuccis
came after dinner to take Carrie to walk and
the Monnets spent the evening with us. Madame
Monnet and I had a long discussion on the
subject of Cocquerel fils. It is next to impossible
for an American to look at things from a
European point of view. Madame Monnet is
kindled with indignation because the majority
of French Protestants have declared that the
doctrines held by Cocquerel were, in their opinion,
untrue and perilous, and she thinks him the most
persecuted of men. But, I said, what would you
have these clergymen do? - aid Mr Cocquerel in
his promulgation of doctrines regarded by them
in this light? Certainly that could not be asked
of them. Why doesn't Mr Cocquerel if they refuse
to fellowship him, apply to the government for
permission to preach on his own account. Surely
his followers are numerous enough to support him
handsomely, and he no doubt would soon have a
more flourishing congregation than ever before.
"But this would be driving him into scism - he
doesn't want to be a scismatic." I looked at
Madame to see if she was in earnest. There was
no doubt of it. Mr Cocquerel then I said, wishes
to force the majority of French Protestant to retain
him in their communion while he continues to
preach doctrines held by them to be most
heretical, because he is not willing to leave them
and assume the odium of being a scismatic!
For my part I thought this was decidedly a case in
which he wanted to be the persecutor. If a man
knew that he held opinions so contrary to the
great body of Christians with whom he was connected
he certainly had no right to insist on staying among
them if they didn't want him. Madame Monnet
then admitted that there were certain loaves and
fishes in the question. 'Mr Cocquerel, as well as
his father, has done much to build up Protestantism
in France, to aid in the erection of churches, hospitals,
schools, and was it fair to deprive him of all interest
in these?' I asked if the friends of Mr C__. expected
the French Protestants to enter into a calculation of
the value of the services rendered by this dis-
-tinguished family and to make pecuniary resti-
-tution accordingly? She admitted it might be dif-
-ficult, but still thought common justice required
that they should not have laboured in vain.
Here we dropped the discussion.
Thursday June 28th
Tecco, Barone e Senatore, came to
thank Mr Marsh for his new book. As usual he was
very strong in his expresssions of disapprobation of the course
of the Italian government towards the French - declares
that Italy is now a mere province of France, and an
oppressed province at that. The newspapers are interesting
now from their lively discussions about the naval
fight between the Kearsarge and the Alabama, and their
speculations about the conference at London now so likely
to prove a failure. The English journals bluster mightily
again, but nobody who knows the England of today, sup-
-poses she is any more likely to fight on that account.
Friday June 24th
The Gajanis brought General and
Madame Cerotti to pass the evening with us - nice
people both. The General being particularly intelligent
in his conversation, and agreeable in his manners.
Saturday June 25th
We had no visitors today - the weather
is rather warm now for much running about. We
talked a little about an excursion to the mountains
the latter part of next week, but I think we shall
hardly make it out. Mr Marsh read me Thoreau's
description of the autumnal tints of New England trees -
very fanciful, and exquisitely poetic in the main, though
now and then he rather pushes matters to extremities.
Sunday June 26th.
'Grant has passed the James River'
says the telegram this morning, and we know no
more, whether with or without fighting. At any rate
I should think Richmond must feel a little gêné
just now. Mr R. J. Walker called about five
o'clock, says they shall be in Turin only through tomorrow.
He talks hopefully of our national prospects. I wish
he had never done anything to mar them. After
he left us. Before Mr Walker came the Conellis
had been in to say goodbye before going to their
villa on Maggiore - After tea Mr Marsh and
Carrie went over to the Hotel to ask the
Walkers to come and dine with us tomorrow,
but they felt themselves too tired. In the meantime
Miss Arbesser was with me till after nine o'clock.
She told me a little state secret, and let slip another
accidentally at the same moment. Our Prince Umberto
is to marry
the
young princess Leopoldine of Brazil,
and certain parties desire a marriage between the
princess Marguerite and Prince Amadeo - the
latter arrangement being one likely to suit the young
people themselves, which is saying much in its favour.
The Duchess leaves for d'Agilé and prince Thomas'
Castle tomorrow with her household.
Monday June 27.
Mr Marsh spent the morning lionizing
with the Walkers, after which they all returned
here. I found eighteen years had told heavily on
Mrs Walker, and I suppose her observations upon me
after our long separation were very similar. Still she
is the same sincere, consciencious, and high-minded
woman that I used to admire in Washington.
Mr Walker, who used to look much older than
his wife, has allowed her to overtake him. He is,
as he always was, quiet in manner, but travels
just as he used to live, as if he had the inexhaustible
purse children wot of; This I suppose he does now
on a more substantial capital than formerly
though I fancy it is difficult to know much about
the real state of the finances of this distinguished
financier. While the Walkers were with us, a
Mr Brooks of Boston was brought in by Mr Artoni.
This gentleman I judge to be rather of the copperhead
species, though he talked patriotism moderately.
He unluckily however made a profession of faith
in General McClellan, from which Mr Marsh
declared himself a dissenter in very unmistakable
terms. Mr Brooks did me the honour to inquire
my nationality, and expressed much surprise
when I told him that I was from Massachusetts
like himself. I don't know whether he intended this as
a mode of flattery, or whether he really supposed Mr
Marsh had picked up some wandering gypsy this
side. Just after our visitors left Mrs Tottenham
came and took Carrie to Villa Fracchia for the
evening.
Tuesday 28
Mr Marsh went to the Hotel this
morning to enquire for Mr Brooks, found he had
gone with a large party of Americans, arrived last
evening, but that Mr Walker had been taken ill
and his party consequently detained. He also
found Mr Thomas Potter, the President of the
Union and Emancipation Society, and brother of
our own acquaintance Sir John Potter, at the
hotel with his family. A little later Mr and Mrs
Potter came to pay us a visit. Mr Potter is a
frank manly Englishman, a warm friend of our
country, and a thorough democrat in the best sense
of the word. His avowed political object, so far as
his own country is concerned is, first of all, the
abolishment of the primo-geniture laws, and the
consequent humbling of the aristocracy which he
declares has thrown itself obstinately across the track
that leads to everything like real progress. Mrs
Potter, I should rather have taken for an American
than an Englishwoman. She has Richard Cobden's
second daughter, Nellie, with her.
Wednesday 29th
I received Madame Gigliucci
in bed, - also Portia who has just returned from
England. They leave for St Didier tomorrow.
Mr Marsh did not feel well after returning from
a visit to Mr Walker, who is but little better, so
Carrie was obliged to go to the Gigliuccis to spend
the evening without he[r] uncle. While at the
hotel Mr Marsh had another long talk with Mr
Potter. The latter had been much amazed to
learn from Massari, a prominent member of
Parliament here, that there was a party, Massari
himself being one of its leaders, which proposed to
introduce into Italy precisely the English aristocratic
organization - inferring that since England was
so prosperous materially it must be owing to
her aristocracy!! Poor Mr Potter is of course
confounded and is labouring with no small zeal
to disabuse these short-sighted statesmen
Thursday June 30th
Being obliged to keep my bed
myself, we are unable to do anything for the
Potters. As to the Walkers of course there is
nothing to be done but to wait for his recovery.
Mr Marsh found him today very little, if at all,
better. Friday July 1st
I had supposed all visiting
would be over before this time but the cards came in
to-day like winter-snows - and I not up. Mr Walker
better. Checcattelli, the Roman, came to see us with the
Gajanis this evening. Mr Walker better.
Sat. July 2nd
Dined at the family-table to-day
and hope to be well enough for an excursion on Monday.
The new minister from Baden made his first visit
& promises well socially - but oh the narrowness
& selfishness of the ruling classes every where!
Sunday 3rd July.
This morning C. did not come
out to breakfast & Giacchino found her suffering from
a billious attack that may put a stop to our scheme
for to-morrow. The Countess
Castellani
brought her
Inez to say good bye before going into the country.
C. could not see her of course.
Monday July 4th,
The doctor came to see Carrie last evening,
left some remedies which did not answer the purpose and
she was very ill all night. A cup of black tea put her to
sleep (strange to say) at four this morning, and the doctor
says she will be able to leave tomorrow.
July 5th Tuesday.
We conclude to go today in order not to disap-
-point brother Charles, though Carrie is rather weak and knocked
up. _ _ _ _
_ _ _ _ _
(see note-book from July 5th to July 25th)
July 26th Tuesday.
We got home at half past nine last evening, found
all right and sent Gaetano immediately to the palace to find
Miss Arbesser if he could. After making an uproar about the
royal
premises worthy of Majesty itself, our bould footman ascertained
that the young lady had gone to bed! I was glad enough to
do the same myself, and only the fear that Miss Arbesser
would be much disappointed had made us send to her.
July 27
Before we had finished breakfast Mr Wheeler
was ushered in, and from this time till half past ten P.M.
there was a continuous stream of visits, social and business. First
Mr Artoni and Mr Wheeler were to be furnished forth for an
excursion to the Lys glacier, then a stray U. S. Consul, who finds
himself in Turin with a wife and moneyless, has to be sup-
-plied with funds - our neighbors drop in to welcome us - a
three weeks accumulation of letters and papers are crying out
at us, and just as we think we can sit down to them for
a moment after dinner Miss Arbessr is announced, - she
having decided to risk another day's stay at Turin. Then
come Count Gigliucci and daughters, and at half past ten
we go to bed more tired than with a day of glacier-travel.
July 27
A quieter day, but we still have abundant proofs
that all the world isn't in the country. Good Mrs Totten-
-ham could not help a very amusing exhibition of her Irish
humour while giving us some account of her guest, Mrs
Stanley whom she had invited to her house for two days,
but who had announced to the servants her intention of
staying six weeks. Mrs T__. has given up
to her guest
the large dressing-
-room adjoining her own chamber, and the contest between
its occupant and her hostess for the possession of certain drawers
is very comically described by the latter. By degrees Mrs S__.
has most gracefully turned out of the room every article
belonging to Mrs Tottenham. She takes at one time a
portfolio of drawings, at another time a work-box, at another
a writing desk, gives it into little Madeline's hands, and
says with the most charming politeness: "Here dear, take
this to your Mamma, perhaps she may want it" - and
so by degrees the visitor has developed, until the only space
left for further expansion, is two drawers where Mrs Tottenham
still holds out, because, as she says, the longer she retains these
the longer she shall be able to hold her ground against
assault in other parts of the house - these being sure to be
attacked as soon as everything is surrendered in this first
room. Carrie passed the evening with the Gigliuccis
Thursday 28.
The Gigliucci in their turn came to us this evening,
and we said a regretful goodbye till November.
Friday 29
Our pile of work melts away by degrees and
we are beginning to subside into the old calm - or rather
should be if preparations were not making for another
excursion - but this time I intend to be left behind.
Saturday July 30th
Mr Clay dined with us today, and told
us something of the pleasures and the pains of his two months
absence. He gave a more particular account than I have
before seen of the disgraceful system of espionage practiced
upon Garibaldi during his late visit to Ischia - far worthier
the government of Bomba than that of the Re Galantuomo.
The Gajani were with us to tea.
Sunday July 31st
Mr Wheeler and Mr Artoni came in
to report their return, and to tell us how much they had
been delighted. Mr Artoni was more enthusiastic than I
have ever seen him before. With this and other interruptions,
letters to be written &c. &c. our Sunday was no Sunday. The
heat is very oppressive, though the thermometer does not get
above 87 Fahr. A letter from Miss Arbesser tells me that
H.R.H. expects that I will ask to be allowed to pay her a
visit when I come to Baveno again, and intimates that
my shirking of last winter has not been unnoticed. Well,
this involves a new dress and accompaniments, and
the trouble of taking luggage and servant to Baveno. If I
were well and could go to see her with the rest of the
Diplomatic ladies on all ceremonial occasions etc. the
Duchess would consider me a bore. As it is, her curiosity
is piqued, she would like to know whether I am ill or
indifferent, and so she really wishes me to come to her.
Monday July 1st August 1st
How very odd! Just
as I am vexing myself how to get without too much trouble
a dress in which to pay my homage to the Duchess, a
note comes in from the Baronne de Gautier to say that
une robe très élégante has just been offered to her which
she should certainly take but for her continual ill-health;
that it is very reasonable etc. I was too busy at the
moment to attend to it as husband and Charles are
preparing their bags for Monte Viso, but shall send for the
dress later. At twelve they left us, and Carrie and I
settled down afterward as quietly as we could -
Tuesday Aug. 2nd.
The dress has come - is really beautiful,
and will save me an immense deal of trouble. A
brisk
sharp correspondence however has been going on between
Turin and Pino ever since yesterday morning to come
to an understanding, and we are all right now I
believe. Carrie and I read, write, draw, etc and the hours
roll away quite fast enough. The news from America
has cheered us not a little. Atlanta taken and Grant's
prospects good. Even the Saturday Review is decent
this week notwithstanding the rebel raid. We had
a good Italian lesson in a long talk with Mr Artoni
after tea, and later, my paragon, the Baroness, came
to talk over the dress, and the visit she so kindly
urges us to make her at Pino. It is so sad to see this
marvellously gifted woman broken down by sorrow and
pain. Wednesday Aug. 3rd
A little shopping and a visit from
the Monnets in the evening were our only interruptions today.
We read from Dante, Haunted Hearts, etc, wrote some letters,
and lounged through the hottest parts of the day. A base
article in the Opinione, on American affairs vexed my soul
for a few minutes. It is mortifying to a lover of Italy,
to see how her press has become the tool of France.
Thursday August 4th
Letter from Miss Arbesser
to say that H.R.H. proposes to her a ten days rest after the
18th, and expressing a wish to join us in a mountain
excursion. - Should be glad to gratify her but am afraid we
can't manage it. Good news continues to come in
from America. The Daily News is jubilant - our enemies
disappointed and spiteful.
Sept. 6th
More than a month since my last
date here - and a month so hurried, and in many
respects so trying. On the 8th of Aug. we left for an excursion
with brother Charles up the Val d'Aosta as far as Courmayer,
did all manner of impossible things there, met the Matteuccis
came down to Aosta on the 16th - met the Pasolinis there,
the Matteuccis again, said good-bye to brother Charles on the morning
of the 17th (he going over the Great St Bernard on his homeward way)
waited a whole day at Aosta for a carriage, came down to Turin on the
18th, made preparations
on the 19th
for another excursion, received Mrs Valerio on the
20th. On the 21st I was scarcely able to leave my bed, on the 22nd C.
& I were both ill from a billious attack having passed a sleepless night.
But we were pledged to Mrs Valerio & Miss Arbesser to get off to-day.
I managed to get up before noon & set about my part of the
packing. The Countess Castellani came before I had half finished,
the Pasolini two minutes after she left, & I found myself
within 2 hours of the time of starting faint, flurried & behind hand, &
C. not yet risen from her bed. She, however thought she
could go, if G. could pack up every thing for her, and
the poor child came out at the
last
moment, pale & tremulous
but resolute. In short we got off in spite of difficulties
arrived at Arona at midnight, left the next morning at 5
took up Miss Arbesser at Stresa, breakfasted at Baveno
where the Collegno met us, also the Countess Bernezza
drove on to Domodossola partly through rain, took a
déjeune à la fourchette there & went on to Isella to
sleep. We had a splendid drive from Domo to Isella
every thing new to the two ladies though so familiar to
to [sic] us. Early in the morning we drove up nearly
to the summit of the Simplon pass - wind bitterly cold
but views as fine as conceivable, returned to Isella
to breakfast - to Domo - to dinner & sleep. Thursday noon
the 25th we set off early for Premia & after breakfasting
there Mr M. took Mrs V. & Miss A. on a mule trip
up the V. Formazza, C. & I remaining behind to rest for
the morning. The ladies did not promise brilliantly,
still it was thought they might be got up the Alp Devero
and accordingly the next day we made as early a start as we
could. It proved a most enchanting excursion as far as the scenery
goes, but our traveling companions found it very formidable.
Between fatigue & fear they nearly gave out, & I must confess
the giddy heights were enough to make the inexperienced quail.
We rested a couple of hours in a poor châlet on the summit,
(the rich Alberto Emanuele having refused us entrance into his
palazzo and bidding
bidden
us
go
to a very undesirable place instead) and then
began the steep descent in a light rain which fortunately was
soon over. It snowed while
we
were on the top of the Alp.
Our guides gave us some account of this same Alberto Emanuele
"uomo senza Dio, lunatico etc." One wife he had murdered,
accidentally he made his judges believe, a second had been found
dead in her bed, and yet he had been able to induce a third
woman to trust herself to his BlueBeard ship. We had a light
drizzling rain for the first half hour of the descent and the mists
interfered a good deal with the view into the valley, still it was
wonderful. The ladies were too timid to ride and not strong enough to
walk and we made but slow progress. After we reached the level of the
stream Carrie bounded on before to order the dinner - indeed she had
nearly doubled the distance all the way by running after flowers,
chasing the poor little dog that attended us, to deck him with
garlands which he didn't at all appreciate etc. It was almost
dark when we reached the door of our inn at Premia, the ma-
-jority sadly tired, but all delighted with what we had seen.
An hour or something less perhaps after striking into the Val Devero
we came upon a most beautiful waterfall, extremely like what
we have christened the Lace waterfall near Isella. It is higher
and the quantity of water greater than this latter, and at its
head we were told stood the village of Agora, quite
invisible from below, and accessible only to goats or
mountaineers on foot. The lower half of that waterfall
seemed composed of countless little gothic cathedrals,
inverted, and dropping not very rapidly, but in uninter-
-rupted succession into the basin below. We talked over
this and all the wonderful things we had seen, the good-
-natured hospitality of the poor châlet where we had rested,
the brutality of the Dives etc. and went to bed as early as we
could, in anticipation of a five o'clock start next morning.
And we were literally in the carriage and off precisely at five,
breakfasted and changed clothes in dire precipitation at
Domo d'Ossola, and drove furiously down to Baveno ex-
-pecting to miss the steamer which we did not. The
Collegnos went up with us to Luino, there we took a carriage
and were in Lugano at dinner-time. Sunday, having found
that Monte Generoso could be done in one day, we telegraphed
to the Countess that we would wait till Wednesday, in which
case she had promised to join us. This done we went to see
Luini's great picture having first found that we could not
get into to the overflowing English-chapel. The remainder of
the day we rested, seeing no one but the Clarks. The two
ladies came very near a collision today, but fortunately no
mischief was done. It certainly required very skillful en-
-gineering during the whole trip. Monday morning we
took a long drive around the Monte Salvatore - Tuesday
morning Mr Marsh and Carrie did the mountain proper in
some incredibly short space of time, and came back neither
tired nor sorry. At noon the Countess Collegno and Margherita
arrived accompanied by the Marquis Arconati, and
Alessandro, dei Conti Trotti, to give him his title. All
were in the best spirits, the old Marquis gay as a boy.
I could not help thinking as I looked thim at him
and watched the lively dancing of his eye, of his famous
bon mot. He was among those patriots condemned
to death in 1821, but having escaped he was travelling
with his wife in a good deal of style in some part of
Switzerland or France, when he happened to stop at a
hotel which was already honoured by the presence
of Prince Metternich. The latter noticed the splendid
carriage of the Marquis when it drove up and enquired
to whom it belonged. The host told the Marquis Arconati
that the Prince had made the enquiry. "Dites-lui" said the
Marquis, "que c'est le Marquis Arconati qui voyage avec sa
veuve!" Unfortunately he could only make us a short visit,
but offered to take Miss Arbesser to Como. She could not
go, or did not wish to just then. Two hours later, the card
of the young Marquis Arconati was brought to her, with a
message that he had gone up the Salvatore. The servant
brought news of our return just before dinner - we sent for
him to join our party, and the much-talked-of Giannmartino
actually presented himself in his fancy knickerbockers, a
perfect cloud of perfume attending him. In spite of the
[illegible] carpet-knight air about him, there is un-
-mistakable genius in the young man, and a vast amount
of knowledge. On the whole we liked him much.
At two the next morning those of our party who were
to do the Generoso were called, and they were off at three
The Countess, Miss Arbesser and I being the drones,
breakfasted at nine, At eleven Miss A__ left us for
Balbianello, and the Countess and I had a tête-a-tête for
the rest of the day. At six all came back well, after pros-
-perous ascension, we dined merrily, and the next morning
were on our way to Baveno again. The Collegnos took off
Carrie to their villa to dine. I should have said that the
will o' the wisp Marquis met us at Luino. Friday morning
Mr Marsh went back to Turin, leaving me to wait for the
Duchess. Towards evening the Balls arrived, young
Trotti also from Balbianello. Saturday Miss Arbesser
wrote to say the Duchess would not come as expected
and I decided to return to Turin the next day. In the
meantime our friends at the Villa Collegno were un-
-ceasing in their kind attentions, they were with us every moment
they could spare, and accompanied us on the boat as far as Stresa
on our homeward way. The weather was showery, and we ex-
-pected nothing from the mountains, but we were not more
than a half hour from Arona before a lady in the compart-
-ment with us called the attention of her companion to some
hills on our left. They were glowing as if in a rosy sunset, though
it was not five o'clock, and the rain-drops were still falling.
We changed our direction a little soon after, and suddenly
on our right Monte Rosa loomed up as if sheeted over with
moonlight. Fresh snow had fallen very low on this majestic
mountain, and it stood out as if entirely separate from the rest of
the chain, and many miles nearer to us. The light which
rested on it was precisely that in which some fifteen years ago
we first saw the Maratime [Maritime] Alps on our way from Marseilles to
Nice - a sight I can never forget, nor shall I that of Monte
Rosa on this Sunday afternoon. The clouds too were very
magnificent, and half an hour before sunset the sky
cleared perfectly in the West, while the whole Eastern
heaven was filled with blackness. The lightning flashed,
the thunder pealed, and a gorgeous rainbow flamed
out on our right. For the first time in Italy we no-
-ticed that our fellow-travellers were keenly observant of
the phenomena that surrounded them. I was so sorry
that Mr Marsh should miss this opportunity of seeing his
mountain-idols in such glory. Alex. met us at Novara,
Mr Marsh at the Turin station, and home looked so cheerful
and quiet.
Saturday Sept 17th
More than ten days have passed since
our return home & I have not yet overtaken the work that
has fallen behind - not yet quite fallen in with the old regular
ways. How well Longfellow has described the crushing
weight of the something left undone. These ten days have
passed very quietly - few interruptions from visitors, few
unexpected calls upon our time, and yet there is so much
of our proposed summer's work not yet overtaken. Home
newspapers unavoidedly take up a vast deal of time - home
letters scarcely less, and there are few hours left for reading,
and alas, how little even of those few can I turn to any
account, but santa pazienza! This evening at tea-time
Mr Artoni came in & gave us quite an electric start by telling
us that the recent rumors about a treaty with France, one
article of which contain, a stipulation for the withdrawal of the
French troops from Rome at the end of two years, are confirmed
and more than this that the seat of government is to be at
once removed to Florence. For nearly four years we have
been listening to prophecies & promises on this subject till we
are slow of faith - and even if all is confirmed we shall not
believe that the French Emperor means any benefit to Italy. Still
perhaps we should be just enough to suspend our judgment
till the terms of the treaty are made known.
Sunday Sept 18th
Between the news last night & and the confirmation of the
taking of Atlanta & Fort Morgan this morning we are not likely
to subside into a calm for some time. It is wonderful how
quiet this phlegmatic city remains, while all its interests are
at stake in this way, but there is not even a street-gathering
or a street-cry.
Monday Sept 19th
The papers begin to discuss the new
treaty - its rumored conditions etc. but as nothing will be known
certainly till the parliament meets on the 4th of Oct. these dis
cussions can only suppositions. A general suspicion, however,
appears every where that the emperor intends this to be a
total & final renunciation of Rome on the part of the king
of Italy - a renunciation which the Italians say they will
never never consent too. Mr M. suspects or rather is
convinced of still more. He is satisfied that the emperor means
to cast off from the Italian kingdom every thing south of
Tuscany forging out of it a crown for a Murat or a Bonaparte.
Tuesday Sept. 20th
The Turinese are getting roused by
degrees. Exciting brochures are coming out. The journals
hardly dare to advocate the removal of the capital to
Florence. The Opinione says this morning that the Emperor
made this removal a condition of the treaty by which he
promises to leave Rome. This is a view of the case that
will not be palatable to the anti-French party and
will be rather damaging to the project. The syndic
Rora is obstreprous, so is Sclopis. The Monnets were with
us this evening, and the little doctor is furious. "Cet
Empereur," says he "a ses deux grosses bottes sur l
notre Italie, et il veut l'écraser, mais Mon Dieù,
il y aura une centaine de poignards prêts à la
venger sur sa personne, et un beau matin il se
trouvera assassiné. Il èst fou d'exciter tellement
un peuple dejà exaspéré!" Everybody sees in the
scheme an implied renunciation of Rome. There was
the feeblest of demonstrations in the street tonight, - a
little band crying abasso il Ministero, O Roma o morte,
but this is a cool people, and will be roused but slowly.
Wednesday Sept 21st
The Opinione this morning sets up a
very curious defence of the Ministry in its policy of making
Florence the capital, says that it was not intended either
by them or the Emperor as a renunciation of Rome,
but only done to serve as a pretext for the Emperor to
make the Catholic party believe it was so intended. Here
is diplomacy and statesmanship indeed! I could not
help thinking, when Mr Marsh read me the article,
a remark of our merry Saxe with regard to publishers,
amd applying it to all politicians of all nations -
- "oh they'll all be damned." Today the municipality
holds a great meeting which is looked forward to
with considerable interest. Not only the fortunes of
the city are at stake, but all our personal friends
are in a great dilemma. I asked Mrs Tottenham
yesterday what they should do, and she said they
had no idea what course they should take, or where
they should go, if they left - Poor thing! She has undergone
such a trial of faith and patience with Mrs Stanley that
she can scarcely think of anything else, even though she
has so many weightier things to think of. Mrs Stanley's
spirit of contradiction reached the extraordinary point
of declaring to Mr Tottenham that, in spite of his most
positive assurances to the contrary, his mother's
name was Tottenham. "My mother's name
was
Maude -
She was the sister of Lord __ whom you know very
well." "Yes, I know Lord __ very well, but his sister
was not your mother. I have always known that
your mother is was a Tottenham as well as your father"
This was rather too much even for the equinimity
of the Reverend gentleman. He flew to his peerage
book and showed the marriage of Miss Maude with
his father. "Now, Mrs Stanley, I hope you are convinced".
"Mr Tottenham," said she after a moment's pause in
which she had read and reread the paragraph, "I have
always heard that there were a great many very gross
mistakes in this book. Indeed every one says it is very
carelessly done." This was so extravagant that it
composed the good parson at once, and he
said: Oh, never mind, we won't talk any more
about it then, and he went out leaving the fair
Rosamond to look upon her picture in the Book of
Beauty - the only consolation that this poor, forlorn,
shattered woman seems to have left. Not even
an Italian superanuated beauty can be more
utterly without resources than this Englishwoman,
from whom every trace of her youthful charms
has fled / About five o'clock the excitement of the populace
to know what was doing in the municipio became very
great, stones began to fly, the police armed itself and tried
to disperse the crowd with naked swords, word was sent to
the syndic who was presiding at the meeting, that the cit-
-izens and the government were likely to come in violent
collision, A deputation was sent out to the people to beg
them to be quiet, and by degrees they dispersed. They
assembled again in the evening however, and when our
servants came in about nine they reported that all the
principal streets and squares were thronged, that
demonstrations were being made against the offices
of some of the government journals, and that even
the Royal Arms had been torn down from the questura
and knocked to pieces to the cry of Abbasso il Re!
This sounds serious but everything is so comparatively
quiet in our Via d'Angennes that it is hard to believe
the disturbance will amount to anything.
Thursday 22nd
We retired early last night but were
scarcely in bed before the sound of drums, increased
shouting and the rapid hurrying of feet even through our
quiet street, brought us to our windows. A few scattering
soldiers of the Home Guard, here and there a gend'arme
and a considerable number of citizens, mostly well
-dressed and quiet looking, were passing down towards
the Vittorio Emanuele. Besides these there were a few
small groups of rough-looking characters within sight, and
among these, under our own windows one very ugly
-looking fellow with an immense club, who was pointing
at the door of one of the government offices opposite our house.
He was evidently trying to induce his comrades to join him
in an attempt to batter in the door, but two gens d'arme
were standing there and before they could get courage to
make the attack, a little handful of soldiers came up
and dispersed them. The noise and shouting from a
distance however lasted till near midnight, but it was
so moderate compared with what I have often heard
in our own cities without the least harm being done that
I went to sleep quietly, without even telling Mr Marsh that
I almost fancied I had heard firing, it seemed to me
so improbable that anything so serious could take place
without more commotion. This morning however we
learn to our astonishment and grief that many persons
were killed and wounded - that the gendarmeria fired
on the populace, (some say at the order of Peruzzi,) that
the Home Guards then attacked the gendarmeria, arrested
many, and wounded others. A partial barricade
was thrown up in the Piazza San Carlo, an attempt was
made to call out all the citizens to arms but about midnight
quiet was restored. This morning the Piazze are filled
with soldiers, and no doubt the government is
summoning others by telegraph as fast as possible.
There is a strong suspicion that the King has been
urged by the French Emperor and by some of his min-
-ister to a colpo di Stato. The Diritto speaks of it as
possible and says: Per Dio! siamo qui? I hope
better things of Victor Emmanuel, but why is he not
here in a time like this! They say he is at the Veneria,
but the place of a King is in his capital at such a moment.
It is impossible not to admit that even in Piedmont,
the royal home of such a long line of ancestors, the King
has lost the respect of his subjects by the selfish indulgence
of his personal tastes and vices when he should have been
devoting all his energies to building up his new Kingdom.
A brave and a loyal man they believe him still, but
the last adjective will certainly be dropped from his name if
he follows the counsels of the false Frenchman much
further, and the galantuomo will be sunk forever.
The doings of the municipio yesterday were interesting
in some respects, Rorà said some very happy things, among
others, that the first notice he had of the intended removal
of the government to Florence was a proposal to indemnify
Turin by a pecuniary compensation, and that to this he
had replied - 'If the removal is for the good of Italy Turin
thinks too nobly to ask for pay - if it is only a political intrigue
she thinks too nobly to sell herself'.
A spirited resolution opposing the removal in case
it was to be considered as a renunciation of Rome was
unanimously adopted, (Menabrea having first left the council,
verde come un morto, as the Gazzetta del Popolo says) with the exception
of the vote of Prospero Balbo, who went against it because
as he said, he was a catolico. And this is a son of Cesare Balbo!