From September 23rd '64
to
December 21st '64
September 23rd 1864. Turin
About four o'clock yesterday things
looked so threatening for the evening, that the Marquis
Rorà made another effort to induce the National
Guards to undertake the protection of the city. The
rapell
rapel
was beaten through every street, and over and
over again, but few would come out, their excuse being
that they were not furnished with ammunition, without
which it was useless to expose themselves. The syndic
no doubt thought their presence might quiet the populace
but feared to trust them fully armed lest a collision
should take place between them and the soldiers. The
piazze were filled with soldiers all day, and about
sunset we heard the trot of cavalry crossing the
Via d'Angennes. Shouting and cries which we could
not distinguish, began much earlier than on the night
before. There was nothing however during the whole
evening in the appearance of our street which would
have excited the least apprehension had I been in
my own country, but as it was we were not without
fear that something ill was going on. We retired
as usual, and it was only this morning that we knew
the terrible slaughter of the night. It is admitted
that sixty persons were killed, and owing to the
grossest mismanagement in placing the troops.
They fired upon each other as well as upon the
crowd. And while this awful business is going
on Victor Emmanuel was not in his capital!
About four o'clock however today P.M. Mr Artoni
came in to tell us that the ministry had resigned, that
La Marmora was to form a new one, and that
the King was here. We breathed freely again, hoping
that the worst evil we had been looking for - a colp[o]
di Stato - was now out of the question, that our
Re galantuomo, would be galantuomo still. I
thought perhaps there might be some loyal demonstrate
towards the King tonight, in honour of his dismissal of
his hated ministry, and proposed to take one of the
balconies of the Hotel d'Euope in order that we might
have a sight of it, but even while I write a procla-
-mation has been issued ordering all well-disposed
people to keep within-doors tonight; so it seems alarm
still prevails.
Sept 24th The abbé Baruffi, who has been
absent nearly all summer, came in
last evening
to announce his
return, and to talk over the important events of the
week. As he is a member of the city council he could tell us
much of their inside doings. Of course he is opposed to the
removal of the Capital from Turin, though not because he is
anxious to go to Rome - that could hardly be expected even of a
liberal priest. He declares however that he can see in this treaty no
signs of its being a triumph of the clerical party, which so many
assert it to be. Knowing Menabrea to be so thorough a papiste
I thought Baruffi would at least defend him but he did not,
- he only said of him "Il a fait une triste figure en se
défendant dans le conseil." Our clerical friend says he
does not see very far in politics but he thinks this unhappy
treaty will lead to the abdication of Victor Emmanuel.
Happy for Italy were there reason to believe that the
prince who is likely to succeed him would prove a
man better able to appreciate this high vocation than
his father has been. Madame de Bunsen came in
all flushed with excitement, and uttering all manner
of imprecations against the Piedmontese, and expressing
the greatest disgust that the King and his Ministers had
"yielded to a mob." I asked her if the Turinese
had not had some provocation, if she thought it
was just towards the Capital of Sardinia to take from
her her ancient glory without a moment's notice, and transfer
it to another city. Madame de Bunsen said: 'But they
knew very well that Turin was not to continue to be the
capital.' 'Yes' I said, 'and they are ready now to give
it up for Rome, but they are asked to give it up for
a city that has voluntarily annexed herself to Piedmont,
that has refused to share with her sister-cities the burthens
of taxation etc - but even this, say the Turinese, will
bear if the King and his Ministers can assure us that the
going to Florence is not a renunication of Rome but a
step towards it.' I found that the poor lady had not an
idea on the subject beyond the vague one that Kings
and Ministers ought not to yield to mobs, and when
I called her attention to the fact that one of the Min-
-isterial journals had said that the treaty would be carried
through whether Parliament consented or not, and asked
her if she thought such a threat as that justifiable
in a constitutional goverment, I found she
had so little notion of a constitutional government
that it wasnot worth while to talk with her. Mr
Tottenham who was present took courage from my
effort to paliate the offences of the Turinese, and
we succeeded in mollifying her a little at least -
Sunday Sept. 25th
We all went to church this morning, - saw
very few soldiers in the streets, though yesterday, when we
drove around the Piazza d'Armi there must
have been at least a body of ten or twelve thousand
in it. They were getting up their shelter-tents
for the night, - some were spreading straw,
some were stacking arms, knapsacks etc, some
were boiling their messes in thin camp kettles, here
a cloth was laid on the ground with bread, wine
etc., an officers table evidently. Altogether the
whole scene had rather a warlike aspect, but I
hope we shall have peace now. The new Ministry
is not yet made up, and the different cities and
provinces of Italy are much agitated.
Monday Sept. 26th
We heard no disturbance last night
but were very much shocked to learn at the
breakfast table that two men belonging to the
Civic Guard were murdered in the street last night.
This guard, which is a sort of city police, has
always been very inefficient. Its members are paid but
40 sous per day, out of which they must clothe
and feed themselves. Such a pittance of course will
not secure the services of respectable men, and the
consequence has been that the city police is worthless.
What is to come of all this, it is impossible to foresee
but the skies of our Italy are anything but bright
now
Thursday Sept. 30th 29
The events of the last two or three
days have been stirring enough, but C__'s eyes as well
as mine having entirely given out I have been unable
to record them. Our hopes that Ricasoli would come into
the new Ministry have not been realized. After several
long interviews with La-Marmora he has declined ac-
-cepting a portfolio, but promises to sustain the Min-
-istry with his best advice and most zealous aid whenever
he can give any. Even yet the Ministry is not completed.
The
Outside of the city is calm, but within there are very ominous
symptoms of deep-rooted resentment. One hour we are
told that the good Gianduja will, on calm refection,
reign himself patiently to the great sacrifice demanded
of him, and the next the same person says with much
agitation that he fears there will be no such thing as
settling the matter peaceably etc. etc. Most of the
old ministers have left town, not with the blessings
of the population certainly, and Minghetti was pro-
-tected with some difficulty at the Moncalieri
station. Poor Baroness Gautier who spent last
evening with us is extremely unhappy about
what has passed and what is likely to pass.
She gives up Italy as lost, for a generation at least,
and it was quite touching to hear how her voice
There are many anecdotes in circulation with regard
to the late ministry some of which are well authen-
ticated. Madame Castagenetto says that when
Menabrea was about to set out for Vichy he came
to bid her goodbye - and said at parting - "Sans
donte on me pretera quelque mission politique
pour ce voyage - ei, mais n'y croyez par Madame,
je vais simplement et seulement à cause de
ma santé." And the comment of our friend the
Baroness was, Ah, l'imposteur! - When he
entered the municipal council and took his
seat, all the members on that side rose, and
left him alone in his place. As he went out in
disgust a Turinese standing outside seized him
by the collar saying: "Traditore! hai tradito la
madre, e adesso tradisee la sorella!" Menabrea
may have acted according to his best judgment for the
good of his country but he certainly need not have vol-
-unteered a falsehood, and his known devotion to
the papacy increases the irritation against him.
It was not surprising to hear, from the
conspicuous part Madame Peruzzi has played in
the great political game that she was especially
noticed by the incensed populace. They cried out
lustily down with her intrigues etc. and she is said to
have spent two days in the palace in a very retired
manner. It is also said that all the Ministers took
refuge there till the worst of the storm was
spent.
trembled when she spoke of the Fischietto representing
the maltreated Gianduia all tattered and
bruised trying to gather up his little children.
I have sent for the Fischietto. The King is said
to be in much distress, refraining at the same time to
see any of his old friends. Parliament is postponed
to the 24th. We almost forget to talk of American
news in the excitement that is immediately about us,
but fortunately it continues to be cheering, otherwise
we could not withdraw ourselves from it even as
much as we do. Marguerite Trotti came in about
one o'clock, staid an hour, and then left to return to us to
dine. Mr Clay came in a little later to announce his
return from Acqui, and to say that he had asked leave
to go to America late in the autumn. He spoke of the unusual
indulgence he had received from the government, and attributed
it to his being a loyal man from a doubtful state. At the
same time he stated that the situation of his affairs in Kentucky
- a recent inheritance of negroes etc. etc. made it absolutely
necessary from for him to get leave of absence, or to
resign, and if the former is refused he must resort to the
latter. I am very sorry for him altogether. After dinner
the Countess Collegno came and passed the evening
with us. She is most deeply pained by the recent events
and used stronger language in condemnation of the
conduct of the
late
ministry than I have ever heard her
use before. Of the treaty itself she expressed no opinion,
only said that no one could judge of that until it was
made public. But of the manner in which it had
been made known, or rather not made known, to the
Piedmontese, she spoke with the greatest severity.
Another very sad thing about the affair is that it has
divided so many families. Marguerite says that her
dear old grandfather is so excited against the Turinese
that the Marchesa Arconati found it quite impossible
to make him listen to calm reasoning, and that to
prevent mauvais sang she went to see him no
more at present. One would have expected the
great Manzoni to have remembered enough of
the services rendered, and the sacrifices made by
Piedmont for Italy to have excused in her a
moment of agitation and resentment, when her
royal House which has been her pride and her idol
for eight centuries, suddenly turns its back upon
her, not to make Italy at Rome, but to gratify
a false ally. The twenty four days that now lie
between this and the meeting of Parliament will,
it is to be hoped, do something toward bringing all
parties to reason.
Saturday October 1st '64
The Countess and Marguerite spent
some time with us yesterday, and the former says that
the Marquis Gino Caponi has given in his adhesion
to the new treaty. On the whole I think it grows in favour.
The understanding evidently is that France is to
declare the treaty was made to preserve the
temporal power of the pope; that Italy is to
say that it is a step on the part of Victor
Emanuel towards Rome, or as Mr Marsh homelily
expresses it - 'to one party it is pig, to the other puppy'.
Mr Clay and Mr Artoni dined with us
today, but if we left no Italian politics for a moment
it was only to talk of our war at home.
The Italian Ministry is at last formed, and has
issued a sort of programme today vague enough
certainly, saying that the treaty will be carried
out with the consent of Parliament but main-
-taining silence as to what the treaty is. Mr
Marsh had an interview with General La-Marmora
today, and while there had an opportunity to talk
up the treaty with Mr Elliot, who thinks it will
prove a good thing for Italy in the end.
Sunday Oct. 2nd
The Countess Gigliucci, in a letter received
this morning, gives her hopes and fears about the
new trattato. The adjectives she applies to the
French Emperor, are expressive, if not complimentary,
but her conclusion is, that since Providence has of
late chosen the worst enemies of Italy to do her the
best services she trusts that good will come even
through this channel. The meeting at Naples the
other day, was extremely interesting. Settembrini was
very happy in bringing the names of Vittorio Emanuele
and Garibaldi together, and a popolano is said to
have spoken in his native dialect with great effect.
Monday October 3rd
The removal of the office of the Legation
into the lower rooms of our own Casa d'An-
-gennes diverts our thoughts temporarily from
the great questions of Italy, and the agitating
uncertainties of our own country. Even the over-
-seeing of carpets, and dealing with Jews about
furniture is almost a relief. Madame Giletta
T and her daughter interrupted my occupa-
-tions below by a visit and again the change of
capital, the wrongs of the Turinese, their demerits
as well as their virtues, must be discussed once
more and in the midst of it came De Bunsen.
The Giletta says that she personally is glad to go
to Florence, though they must sacrifice nine years
house rent. She insists that her persistence in
Protestantism, and her having brought up her
daughter in that faith has been a sore offence in the
eyes of the Piedmontese, and that they have treated
her with the extremest coldness in consequence.
Speaking of the Piedmontese dialect she says that the
aversion of a Piedmontese gentleman to Italian
is intense. Even her husband, who might be supposed
to be liberalized by travel declares that the stiffness &
affectation of the so-called national speech is intolerable
to him. Madame G__. looks to Florence to cure this
and a great many other evils. De Bunsen was
less violent than his wife had been, in condemning
the Turinese, but he was rambling and incoherent as
usual, didn't stop to take breath during the hour
that he stayed. This evening the Stampa contains
what professes to be a frank statement of the stipulations
of the treaty, and if this is true all the great ex-
-citement and bloodshed of the last fortnight would
have been easily saved by making public the
terms of the arrangement. I think however there
can be little doubt that certain sentences greatly mod-
-ifying the possible construction of the treaty have been
added since Italy has spoken out so plainly that
she will never renounce Rome.
Tuesday Oct 4th
The countess Pasolini talked with much
apparent frankness today on the subject of the treaty.
Of course I could not ask her directly whether the
idea of Rome as the ultimate capital was given up
but from the manner in which she spoke of the remo-
-val to Florence as a temporary arrangement, argued that
the Florentines could well afford to build largely even if
the government remained there but two years, as
the increased prosperity of the country and the ever in-
-creasing influx of foreigners would fill up everything
there even when it was no longer a capital, the earnest-
-ness with which she spoke of the measures to be taken
in case of going to Rome - all these proved to me that
Rome was not given up, or at least that she wished
me to believe that it was not. As to Turin she admitted
readily the worst of mismanagement in this affair on the
part of the government. Her account of Florentine
society, especially of the Russian portion of it would have
been very diverting to a laughing philosopher if it
was not to me. A Russian lady, calling herself the
Princess N___. was in Florence some years ago, and
like Russian ladies generally, she was what we call in
America, a grass-widow. This lady determined to give
a magnificent ball, invited her guests some fifteen
days beforehand, and then learned to her dismay that
some fastidious dames were throwing out insinuations
about her equivocal position, and that the ball was
likely to be failure. She resolved on desperate measures,
- telegraphed to her husband begging him to overlook
by-gones just for this once, and come to her if it was but
for a day, that it was the last favour she would ever
ask etc. The compliant husband came on, post haste,
showed himself for a day in the gay city, gave his
wife a terrible beating, and returned to St Petersburg.
The lady's object was accomplished, her ball was a
success, and I infer from the countess's manner of
telling the story, that the heroine did not think the price
she had paid too high. Madame Menabrea
charitably
hopes
our civil-war may do something towards 'civilizing'
us a little (as she once said inadvertently in my presence)
- I wonder if we need it more than some of the lights of
this hemisphere.
Wednesday 5th
Mrs Tottenham had some interesting
things to tell us this morning - one of which was the
substance of a conversation between the King and a
friend whom she did not name, but who, I infer, was
Mr Elliot. Mrs T__ kindly told us as she thought it might
have some influence on our arrangements for the winter,
but of course under a seal of present secrecy. The King
lamented the necessity of the promise given to remove the
seat of government, but said it would be done very grad-
ually, even after a beginning was made, and that this
beginning would be put off as long as possible, that six
months might elapse before anything of importance
was done in that direction, and in the meantime six
months might give birth to events that would make
further steps towards Florence unnecessary. The
gentleman who had this conversation with the King
in speaking of it afterwards said of His M__. "Poor man:
he has had a miserable education his is surrounded
by unwise counsellors, but he has a heart of gold."
One thing must be admitted, that though he listened
too long to the late Ministry, he acted boldly and prudently
when at last he took matters into his own hand. I often
wish our government had more relations with this of a
character that would give Mr Marsh an excuse for more
frequent personal interviews with the King.
Thursday Oct. 6th
This morning we went to the Gallery of
pictures and selected which we thought would please the Bulls.
We offered our price for it and whether we shall have it
remains to be seen. Then, alas, came shopping - one of
the most disagreeable duties in life. I cannot bargain
with shop-keepers, and of course am always imposed upon
but I prefer to have fewer things rather than fight for them
- so our day was lost.
Friday Oct. 7th
The thermometer for the last two or three
days has stood at fifty Fahr. in the house, in the morning,
and scarcely risen above 55 during the day, though
the sun is glowing bright. We have resisted the temptation
to fires, but have really been able to do little but shiver and
grumble. Good news from home keeps up our spirits,
and the treaty discussions still occupy our attention a
good deal. Mr Artoni is now fairly installed in the
lower rooms of our Casa and seems very comfortable
and happy. Mr Clay even, expresses a regret that he
had not asked for a room here which he certainly should
have had. He sent up the Débats this morning with an
article on our affairs in which the reelection of Lincoln is
advocated. Mr Marsh read the article aloud to me, but
when he came to a paragraph that admitted Mr Lincoln
to be a man without genius, but praised his integrity of
purpose, his inaccessibility to partisan arguments, which
it said had no more effect upon him than water poured
upon marble, my reader exclaimed - "better have said,
- than pouring water on a goose!"
Monday Oct. 11th 10
A continual tide of good news from America
has been flowing in upon us for several days, and occupies
our thoughts almost to the exclusion of everything else, even of
the interests of Italy in which we feel so deep a concern. Mr
Marsh who went to church without us yesterday, C. and I being
both on the invalid list, told us rather a curious incident of the
morning. A lady put out her hand to take a prayer-book lying on
the little frame before her, when a gentleman, who seems to
have some prior title to it, said, in a tone of voice loud enough
to be heard in every part of the room - "Well now, that's what I
call cool! Wont you have my hat?" The lady had self-
-posession enough to remain perfectly quiet without seeming
in the least to notice the rudeness. This afternoon
Plana's [illegible] strange daughter made us a long visit.
She says, what is very easy to believe, that since her father's
death she lives on without aim and without enjoyment.
She never mentions her mother with the least affection, partly
probably from a feeling that her miserable marriage was the work
of this mother. Poor Sofia herself is evidently half mad,
whether from trouble or by nature one cannot say now.
She is stronger in her feelings against the King and the
late Ministry than anyone I have talked with, but
I think she differs from the rest only perhaps in ex-
-pression. Mrs Hazard, a franco-american, also paid
a long visit. She is a pretty woman, bright and intelligent,
and Mr Stillman vouches for her as an estimable woman,
otherwise her peculiar position would have excited distrust.
A shamelessly bad husband however excuses a woman
for apprearing without him at least.
Wednesday. 12th Oct.
I sent the Countess Pasolini yesterday
morning a little book on the charities of our war, in
return for which she sent me a nice little note,
and came the same afternoon to thank me
in person and talk it over - While talking with
her and feeling the influence of her charming manner
and conversation I could not help thinking of a
remark I saw this morning in the Athenæum
taken I think from a book by Miss Cornwallis and
attributed by her to her father - "Most women
place half their glory in being mothers, the other half
in being fools." The Countess Pasolini does cer-
-tainly feel the pride of the mother, but it is pleasant
to see that even in Italy there are women who do
not place the other half of their glory in being fools -
and this gentle, sweet-voiced creature is one of them
Friday October 14th
The weather continues cold for the season
and we are all suffering from it more or less -
colds in the head, lost voices, and other troubles that have
quite unfitted us for doing anything. Dr Migliavacca,
the generous donor of very valuable autographs to the
N.Y. Fair, came to see us Wednesday, and we liked him
very much. He is a man of learning, and now occupied
in getting out an edition of Muratori. He was not very
enthusiastic about the treaty, and says it is 'favoured at
Milan only on the belief that it is not a renunciation
of Rome. When Mr Marsh renewed his thanks for the
autographs, he said that he had a large collection still
remaining (he having given 50,000 francs at one time
for manuscripts and autographs) and that he would
willingly give more whenever they could benefit
our good cause. The Gajanis have returned
Reggia da vendere - padrone da pendere.
and spent last evening with us. Mr Gajani
too, is cool about the treaty, fears mischief, but hopes
that Parliament will renew its vote that Rome is to be the
ultimate capital of the Kingdom, even though they
it
accept
Florence temporarily. He says that the Pope will be
able to sustain himself by foreign Catholic troops, by
artfully managing to exile from Rome, during the
two remaining years of French occupation, every
man, that is every Italian, of liberal principles, that
this work he has already begun, and that he will
carry it on remorselessly till he has left nothing in
the pontifical city except cardinals, priests, and
their wretched and degraded tools. This
is
a view
I have not heard suggested before.
Saturday Oct 15th
The abbé Baruffi came in this last eve-
-ning especially I think to talk over a little article of
his which appeared in the Gazzetta today on the subject
of the mad colony at Gheel in Belgium, but of
course the convention and its consequences formed the
staple of our talk. Our friend says there is great activity
among the disaffected of all parties, and that great pains
are taken by the city authorities to gather up the mis-
-chievous handbills etc. scattered by night through the
streets. The heading of one he quoted to us - Un regnoda
vendera, un padrone da pendere! I spoke to the
abbé about the new step in liberalism just made by Russia
- vis the permission for travellers in Russia to carry
with them travelling maps and guide books, pro
-vided that each traveler had but a single copy,
and that this copy bore unmistakable marks of use.
He laughed, and gave his own experience when
a traveller in that favoured land. Having been annoyed
in a most vexatious way about his passport he gave an
account of it in a little brochure after his return
to Italy. Soon after he received a letter from
a Russian friend, advising him not to make a
second journey into Russia, as he and his book
were on the index.
Monday 18th 17
The town is now full of Senators and deputies
and an abundance of what we in America should call caucusing
caucusing is going on. People generally too are coming into
town a little, though we have few visits as yet. The new
Greek consul-general, Mano, who has considerable rep-
-utation as a writer has been to see Mr Marsh and
sent him one of his works - very orthodox in its character
and by no means complimentary either to Protestants or
Catholics. The most agreeable visit that I have to speak
of since my last date, is that of Mme Rothan. She has
returned in better health than when she left Turin in the
spring, but with her lungs in too weak a state to risk a
winter here, and she goes in a few days to Nervi.
I am so sorry for this necessity, I am afraid not less for
my own sake than hers. If all the agreeable qualities of the
other diplomatic ladies were concentrated into one I
should prefer the Rothan even to that one.
In the phraseology of today, she so completely "overlooks
the situation" in all the great questions that interest the
world at this moment that you feel as if you were talking
to the wisest, calmest, and most experienced of statemen
instead of a lady still very young, who is obliged to spend most
of her time in
fashionable
society, and who is a Frenchwoman besides.
Giovanni Gigliucci was with us a few minutes yesterday.
The poor boy finds his new position as infantry officer rather
harder than he expected, and he thinks he shall study hard
enough to get into the Staff, a more difficult thing I
fancy than he suspects.
Wednesday 20th 19
A good many neighborhood visits yes-
-terday, but none of special interest. The Convention
is I think, gaining favour every day even with the
most cautious. The general opinion is settling
down on the conviction that the emperor has asked
for the removal of the captial to Florence only as
a sop to the clerical party. There is still a
feeling of uneasiness about the tranqiullity of
Turin during the debates of Parliament, but
if everything goes well, and the treaty is sanctioned
it is thought La Marmora will immediately give way
and return to Naples, leaving probably Ricasoli
in his place. This is a consummation devoutly
to be wished for. On the other side it is mournful
to say that there are even whispers of Rattazzi's
return to the Ministry, but I cannot think that
the King will be imprudent enough to drive the
friends of Garibaldi to [illegible] by such a
madness by such an act. It is said
that Victor Emmanuel has sent a con-
-fidential person to Garibaldi to ask
him not to come to Turin for the
Parliament. Young Captain Comstock
came over in the Re di Portogallo, and is here
trying to get a certificate from the government
as to the satisfactory character of the ship.
In private conversation all the Italian officers
admit that the two frigates are not only the finest
in their navy, but the finest in the Mediterranean
and the Department of the Marine is not less
complimentary, but it is impossible to get
anything from them in writing. They are
evidently afraid that the French will take
it in bad part, if they should say anything that
could be interpreted to imply a preference for the
Yankee work over that of France. Even the
semi-official journals are afraid to say anything,
though every Italian who has seen the frigates
speaks most enthusiastically in their praise. The
young Princes, though they have both of them been
recently at Genoa, either from indifference or
policy, did not take the trouble to go on board.
Friday Oct 21st
We have very few interruptions just
now, except such as are inevitable from the necessity
of making winter preparations, the servants con-
-sulting us about wood and coal, putting down
carpets, putting on double windows, etc. The
cold weather has really come very unexpectedly -
there not having been a day since the first of October
when a fire would not have been decidedly comfortable -
We have one only evenings however, and sit heroically
all in rooms where the temperature is 56 Fahr.
- hard case we should think this in Vermont.
Among the books we have on hand is Rey's History
of Italy from 1815 to 1860, - very admirable.
We have finished Buckle's last volume
greatly inferior to the preceding one both in
ability and candor. The prospects of the treaty
are I think, steadily improving, and even the most
cautious are becoming favourable to it.
Tuesday 25th
The Greek Consul General Mano asked
especially to see me today so that I could not refuse
though half ill and expecting dinner company besides.
He is a dignified, quiet old man, who talks sensibly, but there
is evidently a Greek in him. After his visit we had the
curiosity to look into T__'s Greek History to see
what he said of Santu Santa Rosa and Collegno.
All the world knows that Collegno had the command
of the defence of Navarino, which could not have held
out at all but for his skill, perseverance and self-devotion.
The historian, speaking of the "brave Greeks, who so heroically
defended the place' says they had for a comrade an Italian
called Collegno! The great Santa Rosa is only men-
-tioned incidentally, but in a rather more respectful way.
Levi and the two Kossuths who came to
see us on Sunday, are all opposed to the convention.
Still they talk very moderately, and try to hope it may not
turn out so badly. Levi mentioned a curious fact, if it is
a fact, with regard to the Belgian elections. He says it is
only by keeping up in full vigor the organization of the
free Masons that the Protestants are able to hold their ground
at all. Dr and Mrs Weld, fine specimens of the
best New England character, spent the evening with us.
They have been some days in town, and are making the
most of their time, as they will wherever they are. Yesterday
the Baroness Gautier was with us a long time. She
looks so frail and worn that it makes one quite sad,
and yet it seems to me as if her beauty could never
have been more striking than it is now. It is painfully
interesting to watch in her the struggle between her early
prejudices and the more enlightened views which are
now forcing themselves upon her, between her love for
her country and human progress, and her devotion
to catholicism and the Saint père. In the evening
the Abbé Baruffi came to us, also Mr Castillia and
the Welds. The Abbé had just returned from Milan
where he says he found everybody violent against the Turinese
- "Mais, qu'est-ce-que nous avons fait, nous autres pauvres
Turinais?" asked my husband jocosely - "Eh, on nous a
écorches vifs, et nous avons fait une petite grimace -
voilà tout! Mais dans les circonstances, il est permis
ce me semble de crier - Uh! - n'est-ce-pas? - mais non,
les Milanais s'attendaient à nous entendre dire: Merci"
Friday, October 28th
We have had but one day of sunshine since
Sunday - yesterday. This morning it is raining again
heavily and the floods all over the north of Italy are
doing very serious mischief - Perhaps the perfect quiet of
Turin during these days when Parliament is at work
on such important questions, is in some measure due to
the cooling effects of the rain. Louis Philippe's favorite
means of dispersing a mob was a free use of the fire-
-engines. The clouds have spared our authorities the necessity
of calling out the pompiers. Orderly as we are here
there seems to be a good deal of trouble in Venetia -
All agree that considerable bands in
the
Garibaldino
costume have made their appearance there. The govt.
papers say that nearly all have been arrested, and
treat the matter as of absolutely no importance. The
Diritto on the contrary, asserts that the movement
is of great importance, that the insurrection is extending,
the bands of insurgents multiplying, and through its
correspondents, cries loudly for help. Even in an
editorial the friends of Venice are adjured to come to
the rescue. The probable result of this demonstration
will be the sacrifice of a few hundreds more of brave
young martyrs, the remembrance of whose death
will make the next attempt more desperate.
We have just finished Rey, and are now reading
Brofferio's History of Piedmont from 1814 to '49. It
is very spiritedly writen and full of interesting facts -
Mrs Stanley was here yesterday on her way to
Genoa for the winter. She seemed to be enjoying
rather a lucid interval, and her comments
upon the sudden awakening of the Turinese to the
merits of Garibaldi were very funny. She says
they say to her sometimes - 'We see you were not so
wrong in your opinions about Garibaldi,' where-
-upon she assumes an air of great indifference
and replies - 'Well it's a pity you couldn't have
seen what everybody else saw before - you might
have saved yourselves a good deal of mortification,
and made your Italy a quarter of a century sooner
than you will now after all this blundering.'
The Fischietto has Turin in full court costume
with a bull's head grasping the hand of Garibaldi
in his usual dress, the Bull cries 'Ah!' - Garibaldi
- 'Oh!' Another caricature represents G__.
walking calmly on without showing the least symptom
of surprise or agitation, while Boggio is grasping
nervously at his arm and hurrying on after him
as if trying to shelter himself under the wing of the Hero.
Madame Sophie Plana kindly brought us today
the two splendid gold medals which her father received
- one from the Royal Society - the other I do not remember
from what great Scientific association. But
the special object of her visit was to consult Mr Marsh
about the inscription to be placed on his tombstone. She
brought three, two prepared by Ghingherelli, the
other by Feruccio. The two first Mr Marsh liked for
their brevity, but thought them not gracefully expressed;
- the latter pleased him very much, except that
he found it too long. He proposed the omission of
two lines, not, as he thought essential to the dis-
-tinctive character of the inscription, and, to my sur-
-prise Madame Sophie seemed pleased with
the suggestion. She is to take it to Matteucci, and
if he agrees with Mr Marsh, the omission is
to be proposed to Feruccio. We showed her the
little pamphlet with the autograph of her father
which we had had bound, and she seemed much
gratified; but the poor woman was on the whole
even more mad than usaul yesterday, and
talked of her intentions with regard to her
father's library etc. in the wildest way, and
her resentment towards the govt for having shown
no more gratitude for her father's great services to
science really reaches the pitch of insanity.
The Count and Countess Castiglione Olcott
came in between nine and ten in the evening,
after I had gone to bed. The loss was not very
great in my mind but I'm rather sorry to have
any one meet with discouragements who comes to
see us in the evening.
Sunday Oct 30th
The heavy and incessant rains which
have secured for us extraordinary quiet this week are
at last subsiding, and this morning the sun is trying
to force its way through the thick midst mists. We have
just finished Enrichetta Caracciuolo's story and
I trust it will do much good out of Italy if not
in it. The writer is evidently a woman of unusual
unusual force of character; the manner in which
she was drawn into the convent might seem
to contradict this, but those who know the habits
of submission enforced upon Italian girls will
understand how to reconcile this seeming weakness
with great native independence. The life which
reduces ordinary women to imbecility only served
to bring out the vigor of this unhappy victim of family
pride and superstition. The chief interest of her
narrative lies in the vivid picture she gives of
the miserable failure of convent-life to bring out
the graces which at first view one would fancy
might thrive in solitude. One would think that
a nun would be in little danger of becoming
envious, jealous, selfish, avaricious; that there would
be no temptations to hypocracy, falsehood, theft; but
it is scarcely possible to read the strait-forward
story of the Caracciuolo without not only believing
that it is true, but seeing clearly that it must be
true. This book has reminded me many many times
during its reading, of Browning's Soliloquy in
a Spanish Cloister. We have made good progress
this week in Brofferio's History of Piedmont from
'14 to '49.
Wednesday November 2nd '64
Towards evening on Sunday Dr
Adams of Boston came here to inquire for a friend
of Giachino, the wife of a courier. She had
already told us of the kindness she had recd
from an American gentleman during her
journey over Mont Cenis. She had been sent
from England to Florence by her physician for
change of climate, and the poor thing suffered
sadly by the way. Her own account of Dr Adams'
kindness to her was very touching, and she closed
it with these words, scarcely audible from
weeping. "Indeed, ma'am, no countryman of mine
would have done so much for a woman so far
below him in station! And I told the American
gentleman just who I was, so that he did not
take me for a lady, but he was just as kind as
if I had been, and I shall never never forget
him." The Dr, who had come to say he was going
to Florence that evening and would take care of
her if she wished to go on, asked to see Mr Marsh
before he left, and made an impression not less
favourable than that the poor sick woman had re-
-ceived. An hour or two after his travelling
companion, Mr Hubbell, paid us a visit - a
fine, soldierly looking young man who has served
two years and eight months in the Federal
Army. We were much pleased with his manly
bearing and his manly opinions. He told us that
his aunt Mrs Thrall of Brooklyn and her sister
had been in a hospital for the last three months.
In talking with Mr de Guerra on Monday
about going to Florence we learned from him
that he had taken his house here for three years,
so we are by no means the worst off. Madame
Peruzzi made us a long visit yesterday, as voluble
as ever but more intelligible than I have sometimes
found her. She does not hesitate to say that Rome is
not given up, everybody in Florence understands
that the transfer of the capital thither is but temporary,
etc. etc. After she left we discussed the same
great question with Count Gigliucci. He is less
enthusiastic in favor of the Convention than I had
expected to find him, and does say very frankly
that he is unwilling to take his family to Florence, the
society there being in no respect desirable. Madame
Solvyns came while the Count was with us, to
present the wife of the Mexican Minister, - an
unusually handsome woman, born in Washington
while her father was Brazilian Minister to our govt.
Since that time she has spent six years in Wash-
-ington and professes to like it very much.
Friday Nov. 4th
The dismal weather continues. We
should certainly have made a great mistake about
the climate of Turin if we had left it at the end
of the first year. There is far less sunshine than
we then supposed, but the equability of the tem-
-perature is as remarkable as it was the first year.
The thermometer has not varied above five degrees
during the last thirty five days, ranging always
between 55 and 60 Fahr. We read furiously now
that we have so few interruptions, but constantly with
a feeling that each quiet day will be the last of the
season. Mr Elliot brought his new secretary, Mr
Herries, to see us yesterday, a thorough Englishman,
to whom I felt called upon to make a parting
inclination of just one inch and a half from
the perpendicular; Upon this he mollified, and
made a tender enquiry after Mr Clay. If you
want an Englishman to be civil, treat him
haughtily. Mr Elliot is entirely free from this
disagreeable national trait.
Sunday Nov. 6th '64
Friday evening a most magnificent
bouquet was brought in which was recognizable at
once as Genoese. It came from Mme Gautier.
Yesterday she made us a long visit, and our chief
topic was as usual the affairs of nations. She says
that the revelations of Sella made in Parliament on
Friday with regard to the state of the finance, and his
proposed measures to fill the treasury, have thrown the
public into a greater ferment if possible than did the
first news of the convention - that all public men
are literally stupified with astonishment. As to the
anticipating of the property-tax of '65 they say it is
impossible, and the new, or rather the increased
tax upon salt will be violently opposed. The Baroness
said, if Mr Sella had seen as often as she had
seen, what a bitter day it was in the house of a
contadino when the wife tremblingly asked the
husband for a few more sous to replenish the salt-box,
he would be very cautious how he made that article
more expensive. The reproaches of the husband,
the tears of the wife, the frightened looks of the little ones,
- and all this through the dearness of one of the most
important necessaries of life, the only seasoning for
their miserable fare that the poor could in any way
hope for. Mrs Tottenham had told us before
that her landlord has been thrown into a semi-frenzy
by the proposals of the Minister of Finance.
La Signora del Prete, as Gaetano always calls her,
amused me not a little by her lively account
of her own and her little brother's experiences with
their governess; also of her early difficulties with the
Catachism - especially with the question: "What
did your godfather and godmother then for you?"
- also Alice's search for the Adjacent Islands.
Count Gigliucci, who dined with us
last evening
admits that
even the days of Villafranca were not so trying as
these. He is not really discouraged but very anxious.
Mr Marsh quoted to him, (with reference to Sella's
revelations) the Italian proverb - Un diavolo scaccia
l'altro, and expressed his fear that it was not
likely to turn out so in this case. The Count assented
at once and said - 'On the contrary, the two devils
had set themselves to work with the greatest
harmony.' Mr Marsh then asked what would
"Noi siamo pronti a fare dei sacrifizii, e non
ci si parli di compenso!" - extract from
letter of Massimo d'Azeglio, - speaking of the
removal of the capital from Turin. The
Baroness was much amused by it as d'Azeglio
owns not a foot of ground or a palace in the
present capital - but she said - 'that sentence
came into his mind, it sounded well, he thought
it would make an effect, et voilà pourquoi il
l'a posé là.'
be the consequence if a third were to be thrown
in, in the shape of a war with Austria. The Count
shrugged his shoulders and shook his head, and
after a moment's pause added, "If the worst
comes to the worst we can set fire to Europe,
and that we have sworn to do. Liberals, moderate
liberal, party of action and all, we have all
sworn that we will go down like Samson if
go down we must." Five minutes after the
Count left us the evening papers were brought
in, and lo, verily, the third devil! Not, indeed,
in the form of a war with Austria, but another
bombshell from that eldest son of Anti-Christ,
the French Emperor. He makes Nigra qualify
his late Telegram (which Lanza had declared
to be the true interpretation of the Convention as
admitting by both contracting parties) so as ab-
-solutely to change its whole meaning, and declares
openly that 'Florence is not to be considered as a
provisionary Capital, that the Convention is not
an admission of the doctrine of non-intervention
in the affairs of the Pope, and that France does
reserve to herself the right to do what she thinks
proper in case of an insurrection in Rome even after
the French Troops shall have been withdrawn.'
There is not the least doubt that Italy would
bolt at once if it were not for the strong municipal
feeling against Turin. This feeling may induce
Parliament still to accept the treaty, though every
'There was an old man who said: "How
Shall I flee from this horrible cow?
I will sit on the stile
And continue to smile
Which may soften the heart of this cow."
(Peace Democrats) C.D. Drake's speech. Cin.
body must see now that the French Emperor
does not intend the Kingdom shall be the gainer
by it. At any rate this open declaration on the
part of the Emperor will furnish very strong arguments
to the opposition. If it were left to me to act
in our Victor's peace I would go down as Carlo Alberto
did at Novara rather than submit longer to such
insults from that French imposter. Young Gi-
-gliucci came this morning to apologize for his non-
-appearance at dinner last evening. The Minister
from Baden also came to present Madame, an
amiable-looking little body, but sadly wanting
in the grace that so distinguishes the ladies of
Northern Italy. The Minister judges as we do
about the convention, thinks that these last despatches
have made it worse than a comedy, a degrading
humiliation to Italy. I have never seen
the good Abbé in such a state of excitement as
he was this evening - he was absolutely dramatic.
He had been present this morning at the distribution
of Prizes at __ school. The Duchess of Genoa, Prince
Amadeo and the young Prince Tomaso and Princess
Margherita were there, and Torelli, the new min-
-ister of Public Instruction, was unfortunate enough
to allude in the most melancholy way to the terrible
crisis through which Italy is now passing. The impres-
-sion was most pénible. The old gentleman also gave
us a droll account of his efforts to cheer himself up
a little one evening last week - First however, his
conscience bade him go to see the Plana. He
found them in the most dismal of moods, -
lamenting in a very broken-hearted way over the
loss of a thousand francs, which had disappeared
that afternoon between the Bank and their own
house - an old and most faithful servant had
been sent for the money, brought it, and 1000 frs
were found to be missing. The Bank would not
hear to having made a mistake, the poor servant
was in the greatest distress, and the ladies were
furious. The Abbé left the scene of woe as soon
as he could, and as he passed the house of an
old friend whom he supposed to be still in the
country, he noticed signs that the apartment
was open, and went up accordingly. Here
a scene of confusion presented itself even
more serious than that he had just quitted.
House-linen, clothing etc. were lying about
in the greatest disorder, and two ladies were
wringing their hands, and uttering extravagant
exclamations. After a while the Abbé made
out that they had just returned from the country,
found their apartment had been broken open
during their absence, and they were now
trying to ascertain what was gone and what
was left. The young lady had already missed
six bracelets, and other jewels, the elder one
all her household plate etc. Not finding
much pour s'egarer here our friend took his
leave and bethought him of another house
where two ladies were leading a very quiet life -
deux dames très pieuses as he expressed it, and
here at least he expected to find peace if not
amusement - After being received, and expres-
-sing the hope that the ladies had passed the
day pleasantly - "not too pleasantly," said one
of them - "We went for ten minutes to say our
prayers in the Church of Our Lady of Consolation
and one of us was robbed of her portmonnaie,
the other of her watch." It is said also that
an ingenius robbery was committed the other evening
at a theatre. A well dressed woman, apparently a lady,
rushed forward in delighted surprise to greet a
dear old friend, as she said, embracing the gentleman
in the warmest French style; the bewildered victim
stammered out that he did not recollect her, etc.
but the lady continued in a torrent of volubility
to express her joy at the meeting, and a thousand
regrets that her impatient husband was waiting
for her in the carriage, - at which stage of the
farce she dashed off, and had disappeared beyond
the risk of being overtaken, when the gentleman
discovered that he was minus his watch.
Thursday 10th Nov -
On Monday Mrs Tottenham came and
took upon herself the trouble of looking up a nice
piano for us - Madeline the nice child, spent
the day with us. The evening papers gave
us La Marmora's spirited reply to the late most
impertinent despatches of Drouyn de Lhuys. It
cheered us not a little to see some signs of life
and independence still left in the Italian
government. Mr Marsh says this despatch of
Lamarmora has one fatally weak point in it,
namely that he does not protest against the right
of France, or any other nation, to interfere be-
-tween the pope and his subjects when the former
shall have provided himself with his army and
the French have retired from Rome. It may be
faulty, but it is manly, dignified, bold and even
rebuking in its tone, and does much to wipe away
the recent humiliations the Italians have suf-
-fered. Tuesday I had a long visit from Mme
Matteucci. She was discouraged about the
prospects of Italy, and said she should be in
despair but for the decisive firmness of La
Marmora. Personally the Matteucci desire to go
to Florence, but they look upon the Convention
as a crime on the part of the late Ministry and
a mistake on the part of the Italian people
Piedmont they think forever alienated from the
House of Savoy, which will find no real attachment
in any other part of the Kingdom, least of all in Flo-
-rence, a city that traditionally despises Kings.
In the evening the Gajani, brought two
Romans to see us: - Castellani & Buonfriani,
and now we had an opportunity to hear the
other side of the convention. These gentlemen
are all three decidedly in favour of it chiefly on
the ground that the one great fact accomplished,
viz: the French once out of Rome no power in
Europe can prevent the Romans from making
themselves a part of Italy and staying so. My
pessimed pessimist husband gives them
a cold bath by saying very quietly: 'The Em
-peror does not mean to leave Rome - he will do
as he has done before - insist on your fulfilment
of your part of the contract and then find a pre-
-text for not fulfilling his'.
Miss Arbesser came at nine, but did not
seem in her usual spirits. She told us how-
-ever some amusing things, not always quite
conscious how funny they were - For instance -
Count Gattinara, who came to Turin during the
disturbances in September took back this report.
- "Non c'e'niente - niente! Tutto il mondo
mi ha salutato; e anche con più rispetto
di prima" !! One must know something of
an aristocrat's ideas of revolution fully to appre-
-ciate this. Also some domestic pictures
of the Arconati interior were amusing -
Khartoom, the famous monkey brought by
young Arconati from Egypt, and recently ac-
-cepted at the palace, is not likely to turn out
a successful courtier, and there is already talk
of his banishment - even the halter has been
suggested - All the credit the enterprising
collecter receives for this specimen of natural
history, is to be called a monstre for his pains.
The wretched little beast flew at the princess
the first time she approached him, and his
"monkey tricks" have quite upset the palace.
The good advice of his master, who gave him
written directions how to rise at court when he
took leave of him, were quite thrown away -
Miss Arbesser has sent us this curious document,
which contains
is
a keen satire on court life, and
I cannot help being astonished at the boldness
of the young Marquis to send it. These are dem-
-ocratic days, that is certain. Wednesday we
had a day of sunshine, but the evening papers
are full of inundations all over Italy, but especially
in Tuscany - The railroads are swept off, and
a considerable portion of Florence is standing in
the water. This morning it rains again, and
that monster of a Mattieu is having things all
his own way. Wheeler's new book on Brigandage
is out, and the little man can hardly contain himself.
Mr Marsh says the narrative part is not very well
told, but that the political observations etc. are
statesman-like, and show much ability - The
Marquis Arconati Jr. spent an hour with Mr Marsh
this morning talking over scientific matters and his
proposed voyage to the East this winter - then I
found them, and Carrie, and we talked a little
politics. This brilliant young Italian chafes grievously
under the French dependence and worse still the
French insolence from which his country is suffering
Wednesday Nov. 16th
Friday C. went to Miss Arbesser who
took her all over the palace. She also had a glimpse
of the Princess with just an opportunity for a salutation
as she was going out to drive with the Duchess.
Kisselem, the Russian Minister, made us a visit
while she was gone - a diplomat of the old school, for-
-mally familiar and easy - using the stereotypes of
society dexterously. His wife is a Roman and a liberal,
and this marriage caused his removal from the
papal court. Saturday our whole morning was
taken up by a poor woman, a widow of a French
Captain in the commercial marine, a strange
and very distressing story, the intricacies of which it
was all the more difficult to follow from the fact
that the poor creature's English was a strange
mixture of German and French, or rather it
was the New Orleans patois engrafted on a German
stock. Giacchino went round to her in the evening
and found her wretched enough in a garret of a
third-class hotel. I spoke to my visitors about her
Saturday and hope we may get a little help at least in
taking care of her - She is afraid of being thrown into
French hands unless she can be sure that they will
not torment about her religion. She has suffered
much of the Sisters of Paris.
In spite of the floods on Monday poor old Mano
the Greek consul General came to see us. He
seems so lonely and desolate I cannot help pitying
him will all my heart. He is something of a bigot,
but intelligent and thoughtful. Not being in a
really diplomatic position he will of course be
snubbed by nearly all that respectable body, and
having no family, and no compatriotes in this
city of close corporations, he is desolate enough.
Carrie spent Monday evening at the palace with
Miss Arbesser, the Princess being with them till
her bedtime. C. took a letter from Miss Sewell &
another from Miss Yonge, both referring to some pho-
-tographs I had sent them of the Princess, with a
statement of the interest and delight the royal little
lady had taken in their books, and the latter read
them with much pleasure. A photograph too, of
the King of Siam, which C. had put in her pocket,
diverted her excessively. C.'s profusion of rich
curls drawn up in a net also excited Madame
Marguerite's admiration, and the naughty monkey
furnished another topic, so that the time passed
altogether sans gêne. Just before Mr Marsh
went out to pay visits yesterday Mr Hardman,
correspondent of the London Times, called with
his wife. In spite of the prejudice we could not
help feeling against any man who writes for so
shameless a paper, we could not help liking both
Mr and Mrs Hardman - the latter, especially,
has all that delightfully quiet simplicity of manner
which marks the well-bred Englishwoman, while
a long residence abroad has worn off everything
like English reserve and shyness. We were friends
at once. - This morning I must give to writing
notes about the poor widow I have mentioned before,
She took up my whole morning yesterday, or
rather I took it up in trying to make out a written
statement of her strange history, partly from herself
and partly from her papers. At present it looks
very much as if we should have to take care of her
for the winter, or hand her over to the tender
mercies of the Soeurs de Charité, the very mention
of whom throws the poor woman almost into
convulsions. 'I am a Protestant by birth,
and a Protestant the Lord shall take me out
of the world, even if I die in the streets of
hunger and cold.'
Saturday 19th.
Madame Solvyns came towards evening
Wednesday to present Mme Kisselem, nata Principessa
Ruspoli, vedova Zorlonia. She is a very fine looking woman,
large, finely formed, every way the very type of a Roman lady.
I told her we were just reading in Story's Roba di Roma,
when she came in. She had seen Story and knew of his
books. On the whole I rather took a fancy to her. Mrs Elliot
made a long friendly visit later, and we condoled with
each other over the prospect of too much of the society
of our own countrymen at Florence. The Countess
Maggiolini who was with me on Thursday, is more
calm on the subject of the transfer of the capital
than I expected to fine her - but she says the
feeling against the King is deep and strong in Piedmont
and fears it may manifest itself yet in some very decided
way. Baron Ricasoli, who came in in the morning,
sees the whole thing couleur de rose. There is probably
not much doubt that Lamarmora will give place
to him as soon as the convention is disposed of.
Miss Arbesser dined with us
Thursday
and had some good
court stories as usual. She declares the King is in
absolute want, that he is plundered every way by the
beggars about him commonly known as courtiers.
The poor man even complains to the Duchess of
the way in which he is robbed. A few day ago some
gentlemen were breakfasting with him in one of
his own private rooms, among them Persano and
Count Castiglione. The latter wore an elegant
velvet
knickerbocker, which the former greatly admired
saying at the same time that he would have one just
like it for himself if he could afford it. As soon as pos-
-sible afterward the King through Count Castiglione
presented Persano with a similar suit. (as was expected)
The Admiral wrote to Castiglione his thanks with
the warmest encomiums on the generosity of the
King, adding that one could never admire any thing
in his presence without receiving it as a present after-
wars, and saying moreover that it was very fortunate he
had not spoken of a beautiful sea piece which had
greatly delighted him in the cabinet where they
breakfasted. The picture was sent to him the next day
of course. Castillia was with us last evening (Friday)
- A glorious second child-hood his, with the intellect
of the man unimpaired. Mrs Hardman found me
this morning in the midst of patterns from one of the
great silk shops and they seemed to come more in her
line than mine. The inspection finished we passed
to more interesting subjects and she proved to be a
person of even more intelligence than I had supposed
from our first interview. She knows personally most
of the English literati of the day, and she pounced on
Frances Power Cobbe's Italics with great eagerness,
and she had permission to take it to her lodgings
of course. De Bunsen entertained us for an hour before
dinner with one of his incoherant cataracts of talk.
Rev Mr Fletcher, American missionary in Brazil, dined
with us, and told us many interesting things of the
country, people, and emperor personally. He brought
messages from the De Limas, photographs of their
children etc - They are now in Paraguay. Through
Mr Fletcher we were glad to hear news of our most
excellent friend, Mr Richard Fletcher of Boston.
Monday Nov. 21st
We spent yesterday, with the exception of the
church hour, and the time taken up by a visit from
the Kossuths, in trying to do something for the poor
widow Lamour, who had been a nightmare upon us
for the last ten days. Misfortune is had
hard
enough to relieve
but when it is mixed with such an amount of folly, it is
next to hopeless.
Saturday 26th Nov -
As the time of our probable return
to America (for a visit at least) draws near
I find it harder to keep up the dry record of daily
events - a record which when begun was with
a dfferent aim - but no matter, it may
serve to recall to me much more than it has
seemed worth while to write. Since my
last date the social gossip and the par-
-liamentary discussions have gone on
as usual. The convention has been
approved by the chamber of Deputies,
and handed over to the Senate for
discussion. The financial bill had met
with equal good fortune. The income-
-tax will press very heavily on servants
and petty employés, and is justly grum-
-bled at accordingly. The friends and
the enemies of the convention support
and denounce it as before, but the
French semi-official journals are less [illegible]
insolent towards Italy. It is said that
the Emperor sent from Compeigne a most
snubbing message to La France with regard
to a very philpapal article published in it
"Cet article est inept d'un bout à l'antre"
- chi sa?
Sartiges, according to some anecdotes told
us by Mr Solvyns the other day, is fencing
with the Monsignori at Rome not without
success. The other day a bevy of them
were entertaining him with the wonderful
history of the little Cohen. 'Never had there
been such an instance of the power of
Divine Grace. The zeal with which the little
convert embraced every new Christian
doctrine propounded to him was most edi-
-fying, would melt any heart etc. etc.'
Sartiges, who had listened with evident
impatience tried to interrupt their stream
of eloquence by frequent shrugs, and reiter-
-ated oui, oui, s, said at last - "Eh bien, que
quel âge a cet enfant, s'il vous plait?"
"Huit ans". "Eh, mon Dieu! voilà aussi
mon enfant de huit ans, (and he pointed
to his little son) et pour un morceau de
chocolat je lui ferais embrasser toutes
les religions du monde!" The excuse he
gave his most reverend friends and advisers
for the continued haesy [heresy] of Madame Sartiges
deserves to be mentioned, In answer to their
remonstrances and regrets on this subject he
said - oui, oui, vous avez parfaitement raison,
mais, voyez vous, ma femme a un oncle un peu
vieux, qui est très riche, et très presbetérien,
vous comprenez! and he threw out his
fingers with a gesture more significant than
his words. And the argument was admitted
to be perfectly conclusive, and poor
Mme Sartiges is left in peace - Monday
night brought us the news of Pres. Lincoln's
reelection for which we thank God and
take courage. Miss Arbesser came Wednesday
greatly flurried by the arrival of a box from
an English House, containing winter dresses
etc, ordered three months ago, and long since
given up. Other dresses had been purchased
in their places, and she, who had acted as
agent for some twenty four grandes dames
was overwhelmed by this unexpected ar-
-rival. Half the ladies had sent her word they
didn't want the things, and what was she
to do with them on her hands. Carrie went
to the palace on Thursday to select our orders
from the box, which however proved to be
still in the custom-house. She was repaid
for her trouble by seeing the Princess a little while
and having the honor of caressing her dog which
Mme Marguerite herself handed over to her
for that purpose. In fact Carrie gets more
of the sunshine of royalty than any of us.
My poor old widow has nearly bored me
to death this week. After having made as I
supposed all the arrangements for her
passage to New York, and momently ex-
-pecting a telegram from Genoa to announce
the hour of sailing, Mrs Valerio writes that she
was mistaken as to the terms on which the
Capt. would take her - that it would be 300 frs.
instead of 200, that the vessel was not American
but Prussian, that it was not bound for N. York
but for Baltimore. Here was a pretty mess,
but the destination of the vessel was a fatal
objection. I would not send the poor creature
where I had no acquaintances to whose
charity to recommend her. We explained
to the poor creature our disappointment which
she bore pretty well, then Dr Monnet pro-
-posed to receive her into his refuge, and
I sent her word to put her things in her box
and to be ready to go there in the morning.
An hour after she came in a semi hysteric
fit, with cramps sobs and groans, declaring
that somebody had told her that she was to
be handed over to the police. I spent
half an hour in efforts to compose her and
make her understand. She went off
satisfied, but the next morning when Gaetano
took her to the pension she no sooner en-
-tered it than she began to cry and gasp and
wring her hands and declare that she had been
deceived &c. &c. I concluded to leave her
to herself till towards evening when Giachino
started to go and look after her. She
met her just coming up stairs with the diaconesse
and I directed that both of them should
be sent in to me. The poor old woman
had recovered her senses, and had come to
apologize for her behaviour. She thought she
had been betrayed into a maison de foux!!
It would have been no unfit place for her if
she had. The good diaconesse quite charmed
us, and I am thankful to have the old woman
in such hands. Miss Arbesser dined
with us yesterday, is in fresh trouble about
her maid whom Dr Arena declares to
be in a consumption. The Duchess, who
believes this disease to be contagious or
infectious, insists that the girl must be
sent to a hospital or to her friends. The
latter are far away and not in circumstances
to give her the comforts she will require and
against the hospital the girl has that
strong, even violent prejudice, so universal
among the common people - The abbé
came in after dinner, and while Mr
Marsh was talking with another gentleman
our worthy friend began to speak to me of the
affairs of Italy. When he touched on the
royal family I tried to look a warning at him
- glanced meaningly at Miss A__ etc, but
her didn't take, and went on. Luckily
Carrie drew off Miss A__'s attention just in
time to prevent her hearing this conclusion to
his sentence....... et le roi est tombé si
bas, si bas! - on peut bien dire que la Maison
de Savoie a cessé de regner!
Tuesday Nov. 29th -
Mrs Hardman brought us the other
day the finest mosaic I have ever seen - It was about
2 inches by 3, the subject a cock, after Paul Potter. It
was wrought at St Petersburg. The bill for
the suppression of the Monasteries will probably
fail. It is opposed by the codini, and all who fear
codini, and priests. Our good friend the Abbé says
nothing directly against it, but it is plain that
he does not like it. Speaking of the hostility man-
-ifested everywhere towards religion he quoted one
of his own sayings to Minghetti - "Vous frappez
notre religion de tous côtés, mais avant de la
détruire donnez nous quelqu'autre chose -
pour l'amour de Dieu faites nous des Turcs
même, plutôt que nous laisser sans Dieu!"
An Englishwoman told me lately an anecdote
so characteristic of this people that I record it -
She went to a dentist to have a tooth extracted,
and, not being over brave, sat down in tears by
the side of a little boy of ten years old who was
waiting his turn with many sobs. The poor child
looked up, noticed her distress, and said, with a
choking voice: "Coraggio, Madama, coraggio!"
I am afraid a Yankee boy under similar cir-
-cumstances would have taken a less sympathetic
interest in a stranger. The Collegnos have returned,
also the Arconatis and Marguerite was with
us for an hour or two yesterday -
Thursday December 1st '64
Our American Countess Castiglione
came Tuesday with her husband and brother,
the latter fresh from America, sailing the very day after
the election for which he had waited. He came over
with our dear old friends Mr and Mrs John Paine
who are now in Paris. Mrs Tottenham and Mrs Elliot
each made me a long visit and I always feel better for
their good genial society. Carrie spent the evening again
at the palace, took a volume of Mrs Browning to the
princess, for which she recieved many thanks from Her
little Royal Highness, and was loaded by her with
books to read in return. She had just received a package
from Miss Yonge and was in high spirits. Mr
Cooley stopped with us an hour on his way to
Florence. He too waited to vote, and he gives us
encouraging news. Indeed affairs look pretty well
at home just now. - I wish Italy had as good a
prospect, but the irritation of Piedmont is by no means
subsiding - the bitter things that are said are not a
little startling, and even Count Castiglione, one
of the King's own ordinance officers, and a personal
favorite of His Majesty told me that he fully
believed that Victor Emmanuel was the last
of the House of Savoy that would wear a crown.
Valerio declares that d'Azeglio told his
brother Lorenzo V__ on Monday that Victor
Emmanuel was not the son of Charles Albert
- that in a fire at Florence soon after the birth
of the true prince the nurse and the child both
perished, that the mother was saved with
the greatest difficulty etc. At that moment Maria
Teresa, (the wife of the Victor who had abdicated
in favour of Carlo Felice,) was trying to throw
Charles Albert out of the succession, and
consequently it was all-important to the prince's
prospect that he should be supposed to have an
heir. The death of the little prince was therefore
kept a profound secret, and a peasant's child sub-
-stituted. It seems impossible that such gossip
should be reported by d'Azeglio, especially as
the resemblance of Prince Amadeo to his
grandfather Charles Albert is so striking as
to be noticed by every stranger.
Mr Meille made us yesterday a long and most
agreeable visit. Nothing can be more apostle-like
than this good and gifted man - The account
he gave of poor Mme Kossuth was very distressing.
Suffering the severest tortures from an incurable
disease which must soon terminate her life she
struggles against it with a proud, defiant self-will, admitting
to no one except to her family and her physician that
she has any organic malady, and speaking of herself
as only nervous etc. Mr Meille, who has had access
to her several times in order to provide her with a nurse
says that she meets the slightest attempt to offer a religious
consolation with the most freezing hauteur, and in
absolute silence. This evening the Count and
Countess V. di Castiglione with their brother, Mr Porter
of New York dined with us, also Miss Arbesser. The little
countess interested me more than she has done before
and there and a really strong affection seems to sub-
-sist between herself and her husband. Not so much
can be said of the relation between the mother-in-law
and daughter-in-law. "My husband told me before we
were married" she says, "that his mother was very strange
and that I should have much trouble to get on with
her, but I could not believe it possible that I should
not be able to love the mother of the man whom I loved
so much, but so it is. She has made me shed more
tears than I have ever shed in my life before. Still,
I am very very happy, and shall be so long as my
husband and I are so devoted to each other." Poor
child! I am afraid there are sad days before her.
Not one of her husband's relations care a pin for him
or her, only some of them seem instigated by the father
of evil to alienate him from her if possible. They urge
him to the clubs, and to the cafés and they urge
her to take her walks alone. They also are piqued
at her still going to the Protestant Church, and his mother
has forbidden him to go with her on pain of her heaviest
malediction. All this is so much a matter of course
that it is worth recording only from one circumstance con-
-nected with it. An aunt of the Count, a Visconti of
Milan, a lady no longer young, came a few days ago
to pay a visit to her new niece. She was more friendly
than any of his other relations, and before she left gave
the Countess some curious advice. "My dear" said she
"you are a Protestant. Your husband's relations will
urge you to change your religion. Do not do it by any
means. Depend upon it you will in the end be more
respected both by your husband and by them if you
hold fast to the faith in which you were brought up. In
fact, to speak plainly, your religion is the truest Christian-
-ity, and if I were not so old I would turn Protestant
myself, and I would have no more priests between me
and my God.' This little incident has encouraged
me more for the future of Italy than all the political
talk I have heard for a long time.
Tuesday Dec. 6th
I have let several days pass without
writing a word though there has been quite as much ma-
-terial as usual. The Hardmans spent Saturday
evening with us, and it is a real pleasure to have a
little home-like rational society - Mr Hardman is very
keensighted, as a correspondent of the Times should be, and
I dare say he may be as unscrupulous as the Editor himself
though he talks admirably and listens as well. They
were both glad to get sight of Marguerite Trotti who was
also passing the evening with us. I have had to miss
almost all gentleman visits for some days - not being
able to go beyond a dressing gown in the way of toilette,
and it seems to me we have never had so many in the same
space of time. The ladies I have seen and how tired when
the day was done. In the evening I have found rich enter-
-tainment in Miss Cornwallis - husband is reading
her letters etc.
Dec. 9th
C. went to the Senate
Wednesday morn-
with Mrs Hardman in order
to get a sight of Manzoni whom we cannot see at the Arconatis
on account of Mme's illness. Mme Collegno is also confined
to her room by a bad foot. Mr Marsh also was out all the
morning and by way of contrast to the swarm of visitors I had the
day before I was left to myself for two hours. The Abbe spent the
evening with us. Yesterday the Countess Gigliucci came
to announce her arrival from the country with her
lovely girls. Such a curious account as she gave of
the family of a priest-ridden cousin of her husband.
The father is evidently little less than a fool, and such
is the influence of a certain priest (the man Mme G
says who took all the brains out of him in his boyhood)
over him that he will not allow
any
one of his six boys
to be left a moment alone with their own mother -
The mother it seems, though a decided Roman C.
& an Italian to boot, has some liberal notions
wishes her boys to learn some accomplishments, &
the priests dread her influence. Mrs G. quoted from
Sour Cavajer
"D'i vachè da L'assemblea
Mac jer seira desuicià,
Elo chiel ch'am dis cerea
Con coul aria d'mustafà?
Chiel? ma chiel? ma propi chiel?
O poteussa d'un bindel!
Ch'a l'è reidi, ch'a l'è fier,
ch'a l'è dur sour cavajer!
Voui ch'i tene a la gualdrapa
D'Fransesch Prim o d'Eurich Quart,
Osservelo coum ai seapa
L'illustrissim da ogui part;
Mach a veddlo un lo cred già
Cusin prim del re da spà;
ch'a l'è reidi, ch'a l'è fier
ch'a l'è dur sour cavajer!
&c. &c. &c. &c.
her old friend Leigh Hunt, The Fair sex & the unfair
sex." Yesterday Sforno brought home the picture
of our oh how bitterly lamented Flora - better than I feared
less good than I hoped, The delicacy, the grace, the courage
the genious, the soul with wing already lifted - how little
of all this is even hinted at in this poor shadow, -
The abbé told rather a droll story of the sparring between
Brofferio and Cibrario sometime ago. The latter,
who is very ambitious of small honours showed great
elation on receiving the title of cavaliere, and Brofferio
wrote a little satire upon him in Piedmontese, each
stanza of which ended with:
"Ch'a l'è reidi, ch'a l'è fier,
Ch'a l'è dur sour cavajer" Cibrario afterwards
wrote a history of Piedmont, and of course was obliged to speak
of its poets. He named Brofferio among them, and quoted
these two lines as being perhaps the most famous written by
that poet, - those upon which his reputation must
chiefly rest! Brofferio reviewed Cibrario's History in
his Messaggiero - and - "oh, Cibrario", said he "io sapeva
che voi avenate dell'ingegno, ma non sapeva che
ne avevate tanto." Brofferio's epigram on
the abbé himself is excellent. When the latter was
in Egypt he wrote a short article for the Gazzetta Ufficiale
by way of explaining what ancient writers meant by saying
that the pyramids were built from the top downwards.
The abbé at this time was also a very leading member
of the Turinese Agricultural Society. Brofferio pub-
-lished these lines in his Messaggiere
"Il professor Baruffi in agronomia tanto puote
Che anche sulle piramidi pianta carote!"
Saturday Dec. 10th
The Schweizers (Minister from Baden)
paid us one of their long visits yesterday. They found
Mme Polixène Rocci with me, and had met her before
it seems, though they asked to be presented again. M.
Schweizer says Prince Umberto told him the other day
that the govt would go to Florence in May, and that the
annexation would begin about that time. This word
suggested to him, as it did to us, the idea of more annexation
to France, but the prince explained that he meant some-
-thing quite contrary - namely the annexation of the Papal
territory. The spirit shown this week in the Senate doesn't
look much like annexing papal territory but we shall
see what we shall see, In my present state of mind
the tenacity with which superstition retains its grasp
on the clearest intellect is the most depressing fact that
I see about me. - By the way, a curious instance
of the impress of Spanish domination still left at Milan
occurred the other day. Margherita Trotti, who was
bringing Carrie home from the palace, gave the coach-
-man an order to go to the Senate for Don Alessandro
at five o'clock - and Don Alessandro was the great
Manzoni. Such things as this give one the oddest and
most bewildered feeling imaginable, and one hardly
knows in what age or country one is living -
General Cerotti passed the evening with us, also the
Hardmans; Mrs H. says that the Berliners, ac-
-customed all their lives to the dull and dreary mo-
-notony of the plain around them, frankly confess
that they don't like lakes, mountains etc, and the
reason they give is droll enough - 'that kind of
scenery is so theatrical'!! From infancy they
have been accustomed to the finest stage-scenery
and unhappy mother nature when she presents
herself in her grandest forms suggests to these un-
fortunate children of the grand monde only the
theatre in which they have spent so large a portion
of their lives. This is certainly reversing the ordinary
chain of association. To my surprise I found Mr
Hardman on the extreme left of Italian politics
and ready for fight at all hazards -
Sunday Dec. 11th.
Miss Arbesser reported to me today such a
curt question from the Duchess as to when I intended to
come and see her that I dare not wait longer for fear my
husband will be awfully frowned upon when he goes to her
to pay the usual New Years' compliment. My advice to
all ambitious Republicans who desire to excite the interest
of crowned heads, to show is, to show as little disposition
to seek them as possible. This seeming indifference
rather piques them. Certainly I have not been designing
in my course towards H.R.H. but I have succeeded
in making her want to see me which I could not
have done except by staying away. She also sends
to consult Mr Marsh about an Italian professor
for the Princess, and compliments him on the
notice of his book in the Revue des Deux Mondes.
Miss A__ presses me hard about giving a
musical soiree to show off Perelli, but I really
feel unequal to such an undertaking.
Wednesday Dec. 14th
Carrie, who returned Margaret's
Sunday visit on Monday, in part to thank her for a
pretty birthday gift, found the Countess still on
her sofa and did not get a much better report
from Mme Arconati. I am sorry to lose their
society for so long a time when there are so few weeks
left in which I can enjoy it. Mr Jocelyn
of the English Legation talked mountain and baro-
-metres and levels &c.&c. for an hour with Mr Marsh
yesterday morning, I dropping in my woman's word
now and then, but mostly occupied with studying the
intense English character of his features and
expression and manners. I could not help calling
to mind the often repeated argument in favour of
the perpetuation of the aristocracy, namely, to have a
standard of the highest good-breeding. This young
gentleman belongs to the uppermost and oldest
aristocracy, and though he is manly and refined,
yet he is fidgetty, throws himself into awkward postures,
laughs unmeaningly at the end of almost every
sentence, and in short I should be very sorry to have
any American friend of mine take him for a
model. The distinguished pianist
Perelli, a native of Palermo came to us
this evening - a very prepossessing man,
Miss Arbesser came later and we talked
Catholicism most of the evening. It was
very curious to listen to the admissions that
she made. 'We are taught to believe blindly
the dogmata of our Church, and we try
to think we believe them when our minds
are turned towards those subjects, but the
increasing light of the age is constantly forcing
itself upon us, and we are full of moral
and intellectual contradictions.' I said to
her - but how is it possible that in this age the
head of your church and his advisers, not only
cling desperately to all that is passed, but con-
-tinue to canonize new saints and certify
new miracles. 'But' she answered in her em-
-phatic way 'every body laughs at this, every
body laughs at it. We catholics all laugh
at it,' - and I could not help adding mentally
with a sigh - and are catholics still. - Miss
Cobbe is most powerful and true in what she
says of the women in Roman Catholic countries.
Friday 16th Dec.
We were delighted yesterday to get Mr
Bache's card, though Mr Marsh returned quite
sad from his visit to him. His speech is affected,
also his memory of words, but no loss of intellectual
power otherwise was perceptible on this interview.
Madame Mésones paid me a visit, while Mr Marsh
was absent, in spite of the flooding rain. Her toilette
was the richest possible, but it did not make her
a lady, though she seems amiable, in character
and very fond of her children, which is saying
a good deal. Carrie spent the morning at the Gigliuccis
where they had most delightful music. Today the Totten-
-hams took her to the Vaudois fair - such miserable
pretentions as these Turinese fairs are! She took
fifty-five francs to spend and bestow, and brought
home a little paste-board writing case containing
paper and envelopes that are curiosities. She gave
about three dollars for the treasure which I recom-
-mended her to give over at once to the little daughter
of our footman. Madame Solvyns brought to
me today the new Baroness Rosenkranz. I pitied
her before I saw her, but I think now it must be a
fair match. Mrs Hardman came while they
were still with me, and stayed for an hour after
they left. She told me a good deal of Miss Cobbe
and in fact had many interesting things to say. She
abused the Saturday Review as heartily as an
American could, though having different subjects
of complaint. Mr Hardman agrees fully with
Sandwith in his estimation of Sir Henry Bulwer
Mr Mrs H__'s discription of Miss Cobbe (to go
back a little) was droll enough. After the highest
praise of her intellectually and morally she
added - "she is a fat, jolly soul of about five and
thirty, but I don't believe there's a man in
England that would marry her." 'Because she's
so plain?' I said. "Oh no, her face is rather attractive
than otherwise, but Englishmen can't hear intellec-
-tual women - for wives, I mean." Young
Bache spent the evening with us, and his con-
-versation made me as sad as the sight and
intercourse with Mr Bache has made my husband.
The picture of the mean jealousies and rivalries
among our Army officers, and even between dif-
-ferent regiments was fearful. I know it must
be so before, for so have men been under the same
circumstances since the world began, but this
young man made it too real -
Wednesday Dec. 21st
On Saturday last I went by ap-
-pointment to pay my respects to the Duchess of Genoa.
She allowed me to present myself simply en
toilette de visite, and neither of her ladies were
present at the interview. She received me with the
most graceful ease of manner, placed me on the sofa
by her, and our talk lasted about twenty minutes or a
little more. She spoke first of my health, then of
the American civil war, its prospects, and its effects
upon the prosperity of the old world. She then
expressed a hope that we should not be reunited
with the "lâche" of slavery still left upon us - that
since even Russia had liberated her serfs, the land
emphatically called that of freedom, could not be
behind the least advanced despotism. She then
passed on to speak of some new German publications
naming such as she thought would interest us; then
expressed the great pleasure she had in reading many
English novels, and her distaste for those of France
which she said, all Germans found exaggerated
and repulsive. Miss Arbesser was her next topic,
and she gave me many thanks for the kindness
we had shown her, said it was a great object to
her, the Duchess, to have the governess of her petite
welcomed cordially in a family like ours etc. etc.
Speaking of the attachment of the princess to Miss
Arbesser and vice versa, she said she considered it
as a great happiness and added - on ne commande
pas l'affection. She gave me her hand in the
most friendly way both when I entered and when
I left. I could not help saying to myself with a
certain pride of sex, both during my conversation
with her and afterwards: how much better fitted
is this woman to fill a throne than most of the
men who are now sitting in those high places.
A mind so cultivated and enlightened and a head
so strong and clear, is not often to be met with
in any rank,- and yet this highly gifted woman
- this daughter of a King, this widow of a King's
son, allows herself to be tyrannized over and
bullied by an uneducated and ill-bred Italian
Marquis. I had scarcely taken off my bonnet
on my return when Rustem Bey came in. He gave
me to understand, as the Duchess had done before,
that I had too much colour to bear out my state-
-ments about ill-health, and that they were
generally considered as shams. One hour after
at the dinner-table Mr Marsh said to me - What
makes you look so pale and ill? Then the little
excitement was over, the flush was passed and
only the fatigue left. On Sunday the Countess
Collegno was able to come up stairs to me
and how glad I was to see her dear saintly face
and listen to her interesting talk once more.
Mrs Hardman sat with me again for an hour
on Monday, told me of her evening at the Robilants
etc. Miss Arbesser passed the evening with
us, and among other amusing things told us
of Dr Weber's approaching marriage. This
German doctor is apparently a very characteristic
national specimen - learned, arrogant and
unprincipled. Miss Arbesser lent him a book not
long since and when he returned it to her he said:
"Ach, Gott, dieses Buch ist gar zu nett! Der
Verfasser glaubt an einem Höchliches Wesen!
Liebes Kind es gibt kein höchlishes Wesen."
And yet this very man is now about to marry
a Piedmontese lady over fifty years old, a
dévote of the deepest die who spends most of her
time in prayers, fasting etc. He laughs when he speaks
of her, lifts up his hands, rolls up his eyes, and says
there's nothing left for him now but church-going
and the like. The Marquis della Rovere, who is a
cousin of the bride expresses the most unbounded as-
-tonishment at the match as far as both parties are
concerned. But she has two hundred thousand francs
and the Dr. is poor - he has cured her of a lameness
and she is grateful - Among other stories of him
was one about an invitation to dinner which proves
him to be deplorably given to lying, to use a plain
English word. This fault Miss A__ naïvely excuses
by saying that all Prussians do it. 'Why even
Charles de Bunsen exaggerates so horribly
that his uncle Waddington told me the other
day that he could not bear to pass an evening
with him, so much was he shocked by his reckless
recklessness. Mme de Bunsen sometimes ventures
on a timid remonstrance - "Mais - mais Charles -
mais non - mais tu exagère!" "Taisez- vous!"
cries the indignant husband, and keeps on in
the Munchausen vein unabashed. One little
circumstance she mentioned as having been told
her by the Duchess with regard to the first gloomy
months of her widowhood spent in the castle Aglié.
She was almost in complete solitude, the ladies in at-
-tendance not being with her in the evening. The great
dismal drawing-room in which she sat alone was
hung with gobelin tapestry that waved to and fro in
the gusty night wind and even the little dog which
alone kept her company, would often bark in
sudden terror at the unearthly sights and sounds.
"I often went to bed at eight oclock,' she says 'to see
if I should feel less desolate beneath the curtains'
And then her children, she says, 'I had no
comfort in them - they were afraid of me, they cried
when I tried to take them in my arms, and
stretched out their hands passionately toward
their nurses,' - and etiquette would not allow
her to be with them often enough to win their
love. What wonder that she married even Rapallo!
- Yesterday my visitors were numerous enough to
make quite a levee. Mme de Hochschild was among
them, looking very pretty and as usual, quite en-
-grossed in society. Carrie spent the evening
at the palace and the Princess Marguerite took tea
with her. - The fare on the occasion would seem
to us rather surprising - baked potatoes and salt!
C. says she was reminded of Miss Blackwell's
princess who swung on the gate and ate hot
apple-pie and pudding! The lovely Marguerite
would hardly swing on a gate I suppose, but why
should we think the hot applepie a myth since
baked potatoes are realities? C. brought home a
new loan of books from the Princess, and a photograph
sent her by Miss Yonge that I might have a sight
of it. The princess said the baked potatoes reminded
her of her visit last summer to Germany - where
they ate five times a day -