From
October 1st 1861
To
December 31st 1861
A FEMALE PATRIOT
There is at Naples an immense, strong woman, about
forty years of age, called Donna Marianna, but commonly
designated—I am unable to tell why—a La S. Giovannara.
She keeps a little wine-shop, habitually frequented by
many of the humbler classes, where they drop in and have
their glass of wine just as a Londoner would take his pint
of half-and-half. This woman is the great popular tri¬
bune of Naples. She it is, who, even under the former
Government, exerted herself in every way for the purpose
of enlisting the lower classes and the lazzaroni on the
Liberal side; in a word, she has acted as the bond of
connexion between the Liberals and the lazzaroni, be-
tween the rich and the poor. On those days when the
city was greatly agitated, the ignorant masses implicitly
followed her guidance. On Garibaldi's arrival she at once
presented herself to him, and was most cordially received
because Garibaldi especially likes and trusts the rough
children of the people, such as S. Giovannara and the
like. She often goes to the camp, and some six evenings
ago, when at Caserta, there happened to be there
about thirty persons, amongst them individuals of high
rank, who were waiting to have interviews with
Garibaldi. He was not in the best possible humour on
the occasion. He had been pestered with the ministerial
sqabbles, and did not wish to see any one ; but on being
informed that S. Giovannara was in the ante-chamber he
said she alone might come in. The srong, stalwart
woman entered. Garibaldi first asked her how she was,
and then, in the presence of General Turr, Bixio, and
many other officers, he said "Now give me a
kiss." She gave him one, and then said she would iike
to have another, and having obtained that the interview
terminated. She does not dress with the least elegance,
but merely after the the usual fashion of her class. A dark
cotton gown, large dark shawl with red flowers, and
nothing on her head. By her side she carries two re-
volvers and a dagger. She walks very gently and speaks
very litle. She has a severe, but self-satistied expression.
She has, in short, the air of a person of importance. When
she shakes hands with you at parting she seems to look
you through and through, and nods, so much as to say
we understand one another. In consequence, therefore,
of her character and position, whilst all the other women
in Naples have been debarred the right of voting, an
earepion hus ben made in favour et Doma Mariama
Turin, Oct. 1st 1861
It seems almost certain that the emperor
of the French is intriguing to displace Ricasoli and
to
make
for room for Ratazzi whom he hopes to find more manageable.
The sturdy Tuscan, whose obstinancy in resisting and finally
defeating the Villa Franca stipulations is well remembered, is
a troublesome person to his majesty in these difficult
times. Even if the imperial purpose is one with that
of the baron - and it is quite probable that it is - the
emperor fancies that it can better be accomplished
by some one who can wear a mask more easily that [than] the
straight-forward, truthloving Ricasoli. There are many
who think the best way to settle the Roman question would
be to let Garibaldi sound his trumpet once more - on
the other hand, though no one doubts the immediate
success of such a measure, most believe that a strong
coalition of the Catholic Powers would be formed at
once to make war upon the new kingdom, and
with Prussia, Protestant Prussia, to sympathise with them,
they might crush the rising nation. Perhaps patience
is the best policy, but it is certainly the hardest to
follow. It is generally believed that most favorable
terms of settlement have
been
offered to the Pope - but it
is No, no, still. The Opinione of this morning, however,
vehemently denies that any such proposals have been
made.
Oct 2nd Wednesday.
Mr Wheeler, the newly-appointed consul at Genoa,
dined with us to-day - a plain, sensible, thoughtful and
scholarly man. It seems a pity for the moment that he
cannot
exchange a little of his Latin & Greek for a modicum of French
and Italian, but he will soon make up this deficiency. He
speaks of the spirit of the masses in the North & Northwest
as excellent, but very despondingly of the action of the Gov.
at Washington. We are ourselves amazed to find the President
directing a modification of Fremont's P[r]oclamation as to the
slaves of rebels, while other officers are allowed to send
back the poor wretches who have escaped, without even the
formalities required by the Fugitive Slave Law. There is
some mystery under all this quite inexplicable at this
distance.
Thursday Oct 3d.
The Countess Confaloniere came in to
take leave before going to Pisa for the winter. She complains
of Turin as unsocial. The weather, which has been almost
constantly pleasant though a little autumnal, seems now
to have gone back to June.
Sunday Oct. 20th.
We returned to Turin this morning from
our visit to the Exposition in Florence having been absent a
little more than two weeks. The beautiful Tuscan capital
never looked to us half so beautiful before. It has greatly
3
Mr Powers' Directions for making Plaster Casts washable.
Dissolve a quantity of
white
wax in Spirits of Turpentine - pro
portions not material as the Turpentine will hold only
a certain quantity in solution - take a portion of this
mixture and dilute it with more Spirits of Turpentine.
Then with a soft brush wash the plaster carefully over [illegible]
this thinned solution. It will be rapidly absorbed by
plaster, but if any appearance of the wax remains of
on the surface, hold a hot iron near such place and
it will disappear at once. When quite dry, repeat the
process, but with a somewhat thicker solution than the
one first used. Dry in the wax, if any should remain on
the surface, as before. For the third wash use the
wax and turpentine as at first prepared, without any
dilution. This will leave the surface of the plaster
in such a condition that it may be washed with
soft water and fine soap whenever it is desirable to
clean it.
Steps leading to the Gallery in Parma - very easy - 6 inches step, 16 tread
Old Egyptian stair-case, also very easy - 5 or 5 1/2 step - 12 tread
improved since we saw it last in '52, and the whole pop-
-ulation seems exuberent with joy at its recovered liber
-ties, and with enthusiasm for its chosen king. We were
of course, not in time to witness his reception, which
our friends tell us was jubilant beyond everything
ever before seen in Florence. As might be expected
from his character, il re galantuomo kept as much
as possible out of the way of his demonstrative subjects
The evening of our arrival his Majesty, who was to
set out late that night for Bologna, having a fancy
for a quiet evening at the theatre, put on a round-
about and a slouched hat, took a fiacre, drove to the
theatre, bought his ticket, and seated himself in a re-
-tired corner of one of the indifferent boxes. He had
been discovered however, and on a sudden every
light in the theatre flashed forth and 'viva il nos-
-tro re'! rang out in one continuous roar, till the
discomfitted sovereign was obliged to present him-
-self to his worshipping subjects even in that most
unkingly garb. Another anecdote is told of him
while in Florence on good authority. He was about
to enter the Exposition one morning with a cigar in
his mouth, when one of the guardiani stepped for-
-ward and with a most respectful bow said: 'Maestà,
qui e vieatato il fumare.' 'I respect the regulation,'
said the king, as he threw down his cigar with a pleas-
-ant smile. At Arezzo a poor woman rushed up to him,
kissed his hand with that enthusiastic devotion which
only an Italian can express, then, after a moments pause,
as if thinking what more she could do, she pulled out one of
her earrings
off, covering her face with her apron,
placed it in his hand, and
bursting into tears ran
ran [sic] off crying
with delight. On another occasion a watch was
given him much in the same way; the donor
neither asking nor wishing to be known, but only
seeking an outlet for her gratitude. Heaven grant
no causes of alienation may arise between such
a king and such a people. We found our friend
Miss Blackwell as fascinated by this bewitching
race as ourselves. Their uniform curtesy and good-
nature cannot fail to strike every impartial
stranger - not to speak of their wonderful natural
endowments. Mr Marsh paid a visit to the well-
-known Gino Capponi - now old and entirely blind, but
still a great man, and a tried patriot. His ancestors
have been famous for many centuries, and the
very name he bears has been brilliantly illustra-
-ted ages ago. It is a singular fact that the great
Italian families - I mean great in genius, as
well as rank - do not seem to become exhausted as
do the English, but preserve their reputation
for learning and ability age after age. The old
man is extremely proud of what has been done
in Italy during the last two years. He says he
could not have believed that so strong a feeling
of nationality, such an intense desire for a united
Italy, existed among the common people, as has now
been developed. Still he is naturally less sanguine than a younger
man might be, and though he fel feels confident that Italy will
ultimately be happily united under one government, he is prepared
for many a convulsion before that day. He is disposed to prefer that
the seat of government should for the present continue to be
Turin. He says the people are calmer, more reasonable, and more
enlightened on political questions than any other population in
Italy, and that the action of the ruler would be more unimpeded
there than elsewhere. As to Rome, he evidently has some [illegible]
educational predjud prejudices against depriving the Pope of his
temporal power, and in fact admitted as much. Naples, he
says, will be managed in time, but always with difficulty until
wiser government shall have changed the character of the inhabitants -
- so of Sicily. Of American affairs the old man asked many questions
but expressed no opinion. Mr Marsh left him with the impression
that he was equal to his reputation. Among other pleasant meetings
in Florence was the one with our old friend Mr Gottheil of Palermo.
He came to the Peninsula partly on account of the Exposition, partly
to find us either in Florence or in Turin. The evening after his
first visit he surprised me by a present of some very beautiful
objects of Sorrento manufacture. He gave us some very interesting
details of the Sicilian revolution of '59. During the ferocious
bombardment of Palermo 3 shells burst in his own house each
shell setting it on fire, but fortunately they were able to extinguish
it - and no one, out of the eighty who had taken refuge in it
as less exposed than their own dwellings, was injured. One of these
shells fell upon a chair which he himself had left a moment
before to extinguish the fire in another part of the building.
He says Garibaldi slept for four hours during the bombardment
on a rude mattress in an open square where shells were bursting
all around him as quietly as he could have done under his own
roof in time of the profoundest peace. Mr Gottheil brought a
a Sicilian friend of his to pay us a visit: the baron Seminerio, and [an] old man
from whom we learned some curious facts relative to the former
government of the island. He states that 40 years ago he was taxed
for the building of a certain road, that he had paid this tax
annually ever since, and that the road was not even begun
when the Bourbon power was overthrown. For another road he had
also paid a tax for forty years, the same tax without any reduction
being continued for thirty years after the final completion of the
road. Of the new regime he only complains of the distance of the
island from the seat of government, and the time consequently required
to transact and the necessary official business. He argues strongly in
favor of giving the local authorities more power, but at the same time
admits the importance of centralization in order to give some
firmness to the new kingdom. He is openly against the temporal
power of the Pope whose recent murder of Locatelli seems an
answer to Mrs Browning's prayer - "more madness, Lord, give them more
madness!" The outcry against this barbarous crime has been so violent
that the Pope and his precious advisors have attempted to justify
it by publishing a garbled ccount of the testimony against their
victim
in
which of course they have told all that looked like evidence
against him, and been silent as to what was or might have
been said for him. But even their own statement of the case
put them so evidently in the wrong, that the friends of the papal
power advised that the publication should be immediately suppressed
on the ground that it rather showed the man to be innocent than
guilty. All the copies were accordingly secured as fast as
possible, but fortunately one of them had fallen into the hands
of the Roman exiles in Florence, and so the document will
stand a fair chance of going down to posterity.
The night before we left Florence the Chorus of the Pergo-
-la gave us an early serenade. They sang several pieces
with much spirit, among others the Hymn to the White
Cross of Savoy, a favorite piece at this time. A mag-
nificent bouquet was presented by them the next
time we went into the street, partly probably as a
compliment for the buono mano they had received
for their music and partly in the hope of a second
munificenza. We left Florence with much regret,
to return to Turin by way of Bologna. No sooner
had we begun to ascend the Apennines, than a most
sensible change took place in the temperature, and
before we reached Covigliaio, it was so cold that the
thickest shawls scarcely kept us comfortable. In fact
the whole pass of the La Futa presents a dreary aspect
to the traveller. The soil is barren, the inhabitants
seem poor and the winter climate must be very
severe. Among the many children who followed
our carriage for charity was a bright-looking
little boy of about seven with whom Mr Marsh
talked sometime. He asked him, among other things
if he was learning to read, "Si, Signore, il curato m'
insegna tutte i giorni". Here a young girl inter-
-rupted the little speaker with "anche noi c'in-
-segna il curato." There upon a lively conversation
with the little girl followed. She told us that
her name was Pauolina, that her little bro-
-ther was called Tonino, that she had six brothers
and sisters besides, that her mother was an in-
-valid in the hospital in Florence. While telling
her story she climbed the carriage step - we
were at this time drawn by oxen - and
showed us the straw she was platting.
Her answers as to the quantity she could
plat in a day and the pay she received
were most intelligent and consistent. It
appeared that she could earn about
something less than
five sous
in a day, but out of this she must pay for
her material
90 basccia in ten days at 40 baiacchi.
She showed me the myste-
-ries of the plat with great readiness, and
when we told her that we came from
America, and that there even poor people
eat meat every day (she having told us
before that they never ate it) she answered
with vivacity, "Ah, but poor people have plenty
of work in America and are better paid for
it, too, than we are here." She expressed much
curiosity about the Exposition at Florence
but said with a sweet, patient smile,
"Of course I cannot go to see it, it would
take so much money." This girl might have
been eleven or twelve years old. She spoke
the most correct Tuscan without the dis-
-agreeable Florentine gutteral. There was a
charming confidence in her manners
which were at the same time very modest.
We all said
to each other
as she wished us "buon viaggio" with
a radient [sic] face, "what a splendid woman
might be made, under favorable circum-
stances, of this poor little child of the Apen
-nines'. I bought away her plat of straw.
Now and then a gendarme or two passed us through the
whole of the pass, as the late robbery on the other route
by which we went from Bologna to Florence has caused some
excitement. We spent a day in Bologna, another in Parma, but
I pass over our enjoyment of the pictures - as also of those in
Florence - as being too much a matter of course to write of. Still
I must say, let no one judge of Corregio who has not seen his
glorious works in Parma. [Image] A curious story was told me in Flor-
-ence which has been confirmed since we came back by Rustem
Bey who adds the name of the London dealer referred to in
the anecdote. The Marquis Ginori, the creator of the famous
Majolica manufactory at Florence, being in London
went in to the shop of a well known dealer in choice old
china. Observing a certain piece of Majolica, he took it
up, examined it carefully and asked the price. "Three hun
-dred guineas" said the dealer. "That seems to me high," was
the reply; "Are you quite sure too that this is really old"?
Perfectly certain" said the dealer, "and I am ready to give
you its history, the family from which it came, and how
it fell into my hands." The provoking connoisseur still
seemed unsatisfied - "are you quite certain that this is
not a Florentine imitation - that you did not in fact buy
it yourself in Florence"? The dealer flew into a passion, but
offered again to produce the most unquestioned testimony as
to the genuineness of the article. The Marquis then said to him
him calmly, "I am the Marquis Ginoni, you bought this piece
of Majolica at my establishment in Florence, two years ago, for
three guineas!" "Good God!" cried the confounded dealer; "do not be-
-tray me, or I am undone!" The Marquis bowed, smiled and
walked away. I do not give the name of the dealer, because
it came to me less directly than the story itself, and there
may be a mistake as to that.
Oct 20th Sunday.
We arrived in Turin at 6 this morning, having been
detained in Parma by Mr Marsh's indisposition some hours,
so that we were obliged to take the night train. Found all
right here--but autumn, instead of the summer we left in Florence
Letters and papers from America, but none very consoling. The
latter are full of attacks of on Gen. Fremont--but for my own
part I have no doubt he will be able abundantly to justify
himself and show that the fault lies not with him. My sister
writes me from St Louis that preparations are making there to
sustain a siege which it seems now almost certain the rebels
are determined upon. Her friends are pressing her to come to N.E.
but, with
the
true spirit of our mother, she insists that she 'will
see the play played out.'
Oct 21st. Monday,
The whole day taken up for me with household arrangements
for the winter, and for Mr Marsh by applications from officers
for places in the American army. The number of those who
wish to join our service would make a very fair army of
itself. It seems now quite certain that the French
emperor did send for Rattazzi and that he is now in Paris
in obedience to such a summons. Report says that Bene-
-detti pressed Ratazzi to accept the post of Minister of
the Interior, but that the latter objected unless there should
be some prospect of a fair settlement of the Roman
question. This answer being communicated to the
emperor, Rattazzi was sent for and it is hoped this con-
-ference may serve the good cause. It is also considered
as a matter of much significance that Ricasoli and Rat-
tazzi - who had not been on good terms for a long time -
visited the camp at St. Maurizio together just before
Ratazzi left for France. The king has requested General
Cialdini to remain in Naples till he himself shall
visit that city. The general is highly complimented for
his course there, and the French and English papers speak
of his correspondence with the government as indica-
-ting extraordinary ability. At last the officers from
the regular army who joined Garibaldi in his southern
expedition have been restored to their places and pay with
full pardon. Provision, too, is made for the volunteer offi-
-cers so that they may hope for an honorable place in the
regular army. This will do much to strengthen the
affection of the people for the government, and removes
much just ground of complaint. The Istrians have
sent fifteen hundred francs as their contribution to
the Cavour monument. LarMa Lamarmora is to
succeed Cialdini at Naples.
Tues, Oct 22
Mr Marsh had an interview of some length with Bar.
Ricasoli this morning. He seems hopeful of Italy and in good
spirits,
so
that, if his ministry is in danger, he evidently does not incline
to lay it much to heart. He seemed much pleased that we had
noticed the fact that the galleries of Florence, Bologna, Parma,
&c, which we formerly found frequented only by English, Americans,
Germans & Russians, were now daily filled with Italians who at last
[illegible]
in a situation to enjoy what is their own. Mr Marsh also spent an
hour with the engineer Valerio, with whom he found his brother, the Gov.
of Como. They both express much confidence in the future. A pamphlet
having been sent us by its author, a person who styles herself the Countess
de la Torre, we made some enquiries about her. She is the daugher of
Count S. an eminent
soldier
and highly respectable Piedmontese noble, and
is said to be a woman of extraordinary beauty & talent - which last
gift her pamphlet proves. Accomplished, too, in an unusual degree
for an Italian woman of this day, she seems to possess remarkable
powers of fascination, - but unhappily, an utter absence of all principle
has brought her, at the age of twenty seven, to be the grief and shame
of her family, and made her name unmentionable even in the society
of a capital not over-scrupulous. Her last alias was 'Countess
Martini', under which name she successfully imposed for a time on
the English clergyman, Mr Tottenham, by representing herself as a most
conscienscious Protestant. Mr Tottenham's next news of her was that
she was nursing his son, who had been severely wounded in the
Garibaldian campaign in Sicily, and, as the young gentleman informed
his parents, was trying to beguile the his weary hours of convalescence
by entertaining him with the history of her the brilliant sell she
had practiced on them. The Tottenhams forgave very readily
their own wrongs in consideration of the very real kindness bestowed
on their boy, who might have died but for her skill & care, and
when she returned again to Turin made every effort in their
power to induce her to change her life
and return
to her father who was
ready to receive
her
on this condition. She refused.
Wednesday Oct 23th [sic]
We had a visit from Mons. Lesseps this morning,
and I must confess to something like a feeling of disappointment.
The proposed Suez Canal has been a subject of the greatest interest
to us, and we hoped to learn from one who has been so conspicuous
in maintaining its feasibility what were its prospects and what
progress had actually been made. Mr Lesseps, however, talked a
great, great deal about Egypt, and especially about the strong confirmation
of Scripture History that was found there, but he said very little
about the Canal and gave us no opportunity to ask any questions
about it. I am afraid I am growing suspicious, but I could
not help fancying there was method in this rapid, rambling talk
of a man, who evidently does not lack the power of concentration,
and I begin half to suspect there is more truth in the English
statements with regard to the present condition of the projected
Canal than we have hitherto supposed. Mr Lesseps is a man of
fine person and very agreeable manners. I hope, too, that
there was more of accident than design in his silence as to the
Canal, and that it may still be going on prosperously.
We have some very odd letters containing offers of service
in our army. To-day, Mr Marsh received a letter from a German
who proposes to serve as hospital-surgeon on condition that
his passage to America and that of his wife and five children be
paid by our government, and that a permanent income be
secured to him both during and after the war!
Mr Marsh went this evening with Mr Lesseps and the Abbe Baruffi
to Count Sclopis who receives every evening. He found quite an elite
circle there - among other ladies the Countess San Germano and the Duchess of
Torremuzza struck him as pleasing women - especially the former. He
also found the Princess I ____ very agreeable. Poeria, who
seldom fails to pass his evenings there, was not present. Mr M.
succeeded in getting something a little more definite from Mr
Lesseps about the canal. He admits that nothing has as yet
been done at either the Mediterranean or the Red Sea harbours,
nor has the most difficult point in the line of the canal yet
been attacked, but eighty kilometres have already been exca-
vated, and the bold projecter declares that within eighteen
months the water will flow from sea to sea.
The rumors thicken as to a probable change in the ministry.
The emperor seems
resolved
to have the Roman question postponed for
the present, and it is believed that the recent interview between
him & the obscurantist king of Prussia is likely to injure the Italian
cause. We are sorry to learn that our reforming king has been
persuaded into the folly of trying to soothe the Neapolitan rabble
by making a magnificent present to St Januarius. Such a
step backward is not worthy of him.
Pulzsky spent an hour here to-day. He is one of those persons who
hear nothing that is said to them on a first interview. I find this
trait very common - almost the rule among
the
English, but, though
less frequent among the Continentals, it is oftener met with here than
in America where sl such a peculiarity is regarded as the worst
of bores. It often happens that this obtuseness of the auditory nerve is
gives way on further acquaintance, and I have no doubt
we shall in the end find Pulzsky a source of much valuable
information on European politics, as well as a pleasant talker gen
-erally.
Thursday Oct 24th
Much anxiety is felt by the friends of Ricasoli as to the result
of Rattazzi's visit to Paris. Few think an arrangement between the two,
so that both shall be in the same ministry, possible. Mr Marsh
who had occasion to see the Baron on official business this morning
found him earnest as usual, but without the
least
sign of disquiet of any
kind. It will be a source of great regret to us if he resigns.
His Protestantism is openly asserted by many persons. Father Passaglia
is expected in Turin to-night. The Pope is said to be furious at
his escape from Rome. The Catholic clergy are flocking more and more
to the standard of the king and many think a schism in the Italian
Church imminent. Gen. Goyon has left Rome, no less to the satisfac-
tion of his own troops, it is said, than to that of the Romans. His parting
interview with Frances Bourbon lasted an hour. Monseigneurs Mariani
and Crescenzi have ordered a baker of Veroli to make 50 dozen
'pane di munizione' every day for the support of the band
of Chiavone! This bread is sent
off
openly every day in a provision
cart under the protection of the sbirri of the Pope and the eagles
of the emperor. The disturbances in Warsaw are getting daily
more serious. The strictest martial law is enforced there. Truly
these are fearful days for both oppressors & oppressed.
Mr Marsh spent another hour with Mr Lesseps this morning, and
now feels much better satisfied as to the prospects of the Great Canal
than after his first interview with him. We shall in time learn
to make all due allowance for the stormy eloquence with
which these foreigners at first confound and overwhelm one, without
in fact saying any thing. Mr Hughs, the inventer of the lastest latest
printing Telegraph, spent some time with Mr M. this morning. He says
Europeans have not the slightest idea of the advanced state of science
in America, nor can they be made to believe
in
it.
Friday, Oct 25th
A new ferment in political circles has been occasioned
by the report that the emperor of the French has requested Victor
Emmanuel to increase his standing army to two hundred thousand
This, it is thought, is an indication that he is preparing to take a
course which he anticipates may rouse Austria and Spain
to make common cause with the Pope and the Bourbons, &
that he wishes Italy to be in a condition to defend herself.
One thing only seems certain - that this man is unfathomable
in his policy. I learned some curious facts this morning with
regard to the distinctions kept up in Turin between the noble
families and the Haute Bourgeoisie. It seems that since the
revolutions of '48 & '59 the former - who had for generations
treated the latter with a hauteur amounting to studied
insolence - made overtures to these [illegible]
parvenus
and sent them
visiting cards by way of showing their readiness to open their
circles to them. It is asserted that these cards were in most
cases entirely unnoticed, the bourgeoisie, remembering old
affronts, and taking this occasion to show their own independence.
A friend tells me that access to the Haute Bourgeoisie is
far more difficult for a stranger now than admission
to the oldest families. It is certainly much to be regretted
that the memory of ancient wrongs should be suffered to
in this way to keep up these absurd distinctions of caste
when the old obstacles were ready to give way.
Sat. 26th Oct.
No further developments as to the formation of a new ministry
though Ricasoli's friends are anxious. Corghi states in his
notes, that a little brother of the fiancée of the unfortunate
Locatelli was run over
one day
this week, by a cardinal's carriage &
killed instantly. We hope this may prove a mistake. He
adds "the carriage did not stop!"
Sunday Oct 27th
Madame de Lima brought La Baronne Hochschild, wife of
the newly arrived minister from Sweden, to see me this
morning. Emphatically women of the world both. Mr M
dined with Baron Ricasoli, the dinner being a compliment
to Mr Benedetti. The diplomatic corps were all present
except Sir James Hudson who is not yet tired of the Lakes.
Mr Marsh sat at dinner between Bastogi and Poerio, both
of whom, but especially the latter, he was very glad to meet in
this way. The Neapolitan hero seemed admirably acquainted
with the history and condition of the U.S. of America, and
expressed strong sympathy with us. This is the more grateful
at a moment when every American feels that to the sentiments
of dislike, entertained towards his country by almost every
aristocrat in Europe, are now added those of contempt.
Politics were of course not discussed on such an occasion
but gossip still assert insists that a change is about
to take place in the ministry. The birds of the air too
have brought the substance of the French emperor's conversation
with Rattazzi, which is that the Roman question must rest
where it is for the present - that Venetia must first be secured
to Italy and then the rest must follow as a matter of course
Rattazzi, it is further said, has gone to London to sound the English
government. No confidence can be placed on these on dits
but it is interesting to follow them from day to day.
We were much amused this morning by [illegible] an indignant
article for the Paris Correspondent to the N.Y. Times on the
subject of the offer said to the have been made to Garibaldi
by our government. The incensed writer scolds Garibaldi
Mr Marsh and Mr Sanford indiscriminately for not coming
out and telling the curious public the exact facts in the
case! I should be glad to refer my excited country man
to the Hon. Mr Seward, Mr Quiggle and Mrs Cordee Quiggle
for the information he considers so important.
Oct 28th Monday
Extract from Mr Marsh's Despatch to Mr Seward
which was to have gone this morning, but which I have
persuaded him to modify - perhaps from an excess of prudence
"In fact at this moment the opponents of papal supremacy,
like so many other multitudes who are just opening their
eyes to the light of principle & truth, are suffering under the
great want of the age - the want of a man to lead them.
That man may, perhaps, be found in Ricasoli, if the intrigues
now in operation to displace him shall succeed, and whenever
he, or any other true hero, shall assume the direction of
the train, the bull will be thrown from the track or crushed
under the wheels of the locomotive."
Corghi's notes this evening continue to assert that the emperor
has intimated to Rattazzi that Venetia must be annexed to the Italian
kingdom before the Roman question can be brought any nearer to a
settlement. He also declares that the military preparations that
which
Victor Emmanuel is making prove that he about to intimate to
Austria that the time has come when she must 'render
to Caesar the things that are Caesar's.' This being done, it
will be time to turn to the pope with the conclusion
of the command - 'and to God the things that are God's.'
Many believe that Garibaldi is actually going to assist the
Montenegrins - if so, it of course is but a pretext for put
-ting himself in a position to attack Austria.
Some curiosity is felt as the answer that Farini will make
to the dotard, Lord Normanly [Normandy], who has charged him with convey
-ing the linen of that most respectable and injured personage
the ex-duke of Modena! A horrible tragedy has
just been enacted near Fondi in the name of religion &
loyalty - the details on the next page.
Poerio came to see us to-day, but unfortunately the putting
-down of carpets etc, was going
on
to such an extent that we
had no corner to receive him.
This evening Baruffi gave us an anecdote of Cha[teau]briand.
When the Abbé was a student at Ferrara, he was
presented to Chateaubriand, who was there for a day,
and it was made his duty to accompany the dis-
-tinguished traveller on his visit to the famous li-
-brary in that place. During the course of their walk
Chateaubriand impressed upon his young companion
the pleasures and advantages of Oriental travel.
The student replied with a sigh, "Ah, but I am poor!"
I can never hope for the fifty thousand francs nec
-essary to make the journey you have made."
"Cinquante mille francs!" exclaimed the aston-
-ished traveller; "mais, qui vous a dit cette bêtise?"
The student not less astonished was silent. "Mais,
je vous demande encore, mon ami, qui vous a dit
cette bêtise?" Driven to the wall the embarrassed
Baruffi answered, "Puisque vous insistez, Monsieur,
il faut vous avouer que je l'ai lue dans votre
livre de voyage." The savant was confounded, and
would not really believe, until his own words
were shown him in the library. Chateaubriand
then asked the young man 'if he had read his book
on Christianity with as much attention as he had
read his travels.' Being answered in the affirmative,
he said with something like irony, "Eh bien! est ce
que vous y avez trouéré encore quelques cinquante
mille francs?" Again the student was silent for a
moment; then he replied with embarrassment, "Mais,
Monsieur, vous vous moquez de moi. Vous ne croyez
pas qu'un simple étudiant comme moi oserait
critiquer les oeuvres d'un savant dont la renommé
a rempli le monde." The confusion of his companion
no doubt piqued the curiosity of Chateaubriand,
who pressed him so hard that he finally confessed
that 'he did not find the chapter on Science entirely
satisfactory', and expressed a hope that he would
'revise it in a future edition, and make it more
in harmony with the great power and knowledge
displayed in the rest of the book'. The vanity of the au-
-thor was evidently much wounded - he soon recognized
another acquaintance in the library and says the
Abbé. "Comme on ne s'occupa plus de moi, je m'esqui-
-vai bientôt." Four years later Baruffi dined with Chat-
-eaubriand at the house of a mutual friend in Paris.
He was presented to him as a stranger, but Chateaubriand
looking steadily at him, said, "Mais, Monsieur, je vous
ai déjà ren contré quelque part, n'est ce pas?" "Oui,
Monsieur, j'ai eu l'honore
neur
de vous accompagner au
bibliotèque de Ferrara." "Ah, ah, oui - Ferrara, Ferrara
- je me rappelle - mais n'en parlons plus!" said
he, tapping his forehead with a half smile - and
so they talked of other things. The explanation of
the fifty thousand francs is this. Chateaubriand having sta-
-ted that he had brought a bottle of water from the Jordan
expressly for the christening of a certain young prince, it was
stated
intimated
to him that the royal father intended to defray the
expenses of his journey to the sacred river. Not thinking it
worth while to be very exact under the circumstances he had
thrown out a rough estimate in his book to save his sove-
-reign any embarrassment! The chapter on Science
was rewritten, but, though less flagrant in subsequent
editions than in the first, it is still far from creditable.
Oct 29th Tuesday,
There was a row this morning between an Ebrew
Jew, who was putting down our carpets, and our maître d'hotel,
which became so serious that I was forced to adventure myself
into the very small space that separated the high contending
parties, in order to prevent the fiery Italian from hurling the tricky Isl
Israelite down the stair-case. I came very near losing my own
temper at the astonishing imprudence
with
which this unworthy descen
dant of grand, old Abraham, tried to impose upon us in every
way - but I remembered in time how Christians had trampled
on his race for so many ages - and About's chapter on the
Ghetto, & Robert Brownings 'Holy Cross day', finished to reslure
restore my equanimity, and I was able to recommence nego-
-tiations with my Shylock with the utmost composure.
There was a full & curious account of the attempt
to seize Father Pasaglia the other day at Rome, in the
Gaglia Galignani of to-day. The ex-Jesuit is now in Turin.
Oct 30th Wednesday,
To-day Minghetti, minister of justice and religious
worship, publishes a significant circular to the Episcopato
which shows the right spirit on the part of the government.
Hopes are again expressed by the Turin Journals that Ricasoli &
Rattazzi may both be in the new ministry. The movements
of the Caprera Coeur-de-lion are the subject of unceasing
speculation in all quarters. Mantua has been
ordered by Austria to furnish 6000 recruits of the 85000
with which she proposes to increase her army - the object
no doubt, being to withdraw from that quarter all the
as large a portion of the men able to bear arms as
possible. Warsaw and its vicinity still continues greatly
disturbed - even St Petersburg is by no means quiet and many
students have been arrested there. Switzerland, too,
is violently agitated by what she believes to be the
threatening attitude of France towards her.
My Jew turns out to bear the name of Moses Sacerdote.
This reminds me to record the names of Mr Marsh's tailors
- the firm is "Levi e Sacerdote" - Priest and Levite,
one might say, without making a very violent translation.
Turin is full of quaint sighs - the other day I saw 'Catherina Tua.'
AVVISO AL PUBBLICO
Nell'apertura di varii gabinetti magnetici è giustizia il rivendierare il
sublime merito della chiaroveggente LEOPOLDA, che come la più felice
nci successi sanitari è del pari la più anziana nell'èsercizio della profes-
sione. Ella è dotata delle più squisite e rare doti magnetiche tanto acca-
demiche che consultive, ed in appoggio della propria riputazione offre agli
accorrenti un catalogo di successi che nessun'altra competente sonnambula
è nel caso d'offrire, ed in conferma di quanto sopra offre ora uno dei
mille attestati di ringraziamento rilasciati a di lei onore per ottenuta gua-
rigione:
A proprio conforto ed in rimunerazione d'una parte de molti meriti della brava
sibilla Leopolda, la sottoscritta attesta che la propria bambina, affetta da marasino
e da tabe mesenterica, ottenne, dopo inutilmente teniati i benefizi della scienza
medica, perfetta guarigione nel tempo di un mese da due soli consulti magnetici
presi al gabinetto Leopolda, via Nuova, n. 37 piano 3°, casa Musy.
Angela Testa, abitante a S. Antonino di Susa.
NB. Con una ciocca di capelli per corrispondenza fa qualunque consulto
di malattia col solo indirizzo sovraccennato.
Oct 31st. Thursday.
After a two days gentle rain the sun came out at
noon, and at three
we
went out to pay the Hochschilds a
visit. The view of the mountains and was wonderful. Th
Monte Rosa, covered almost to her base with new-fallen
snow, stood out from a back-ground of dark cloud on which
glowed the fragment of a brilliant rainbow - as grand a sight
as mountain ever offered at such a distance. The rest of
the chain for some distance on either hand of the Alpine
Queen was completely hidden by thick vapours, thus leaving her
in lonely majesty. In the direction of Monte Viso
quite another scene presented itself. That stately pyramidal
peak rose clear and sharp against the sky looking of an
incredible height - probably because such masses of bright
cumulous clouds were rolling like a sea at its feet, filling
every valley, sweeping along every slope, feathering every
lower crest. It seemed as if the eye could penetrate for
miles and miles into the billowy vapours that were growing
every moment more gorg gorgeously brilliant as the sun
approached them. One could scarcely help attaching the idea
of life and consciousness to forms so full of beauty, to motions
so perfect in grace. Oh for the painter's hand to fix forever
what I see again so clearly as I write. We agreed
that Turin never looked
to us
so lovely as this afternoon - the near
hills gay in their autumn dress, the streets thronged with women
& girls bringing
carrying baskets of
flowers etc - and the sidewalks half filled up
by V others who were twining bright garlands or weaving
mournful monumental wreaths to be used for All Saints & All Souls
which fall on the first & second of Nov.
It is now asserted that Rattazzi is not to come into the ministry
but wilt will retain his place for the present as President of the
Chambers. Important military preparations are doubtless making
but for what special purpose is mere matter of conjecture.
Nov 1st, Friday
The venerable Plana came to us this morning -
full of life and interested in every thing, but very deaf.
The Tottenhams & the Countess Marini came in about the same
time. Mr Marsh saw baron Ricasoli this morning and was told
by him that Italian Government would do all he asked
with reference to the privateers that should appear in the
Mediterranean. He also had some confidential talk with him
as to the desires of the
Italian
Government with regard to Garibaldi's
going to America. It seems the fiery spirit of the heroic
patriot is growing impatient almost to madness, and that he
does not hesitate in his passionate moods to declare himself
ready for a revolution like the French of '92. What
a pity he cannot see that in almost every direction there
is the most steady advance towards [illegible]
the truest freedom.
Sat. Nov. 2nd
The course of our housekeeping which hitherto, unlike the
course true love, has run with the most oily smoothness, met
with a slight ssho shock this morning. Lucia, the house-
maid, a quiet, meek little creature, to whom every body in the
house has been very indulgent on account of her delicate health
and gentle character, gave notice to-day that her placement
be supplied as she wished to leave. On enquiring into her grievances
I found that the night before when the mâitre d'hôtel was
about to take some water from the tea-kettle for our tea,
the little housemaid, who happened to be standing near, cried
out, "Don't make the tea with that - I have just washed the
dinner-knives in it!" "Washed the knives in the tea-kettle!"
exclaimed the astonished Alexander, and the his additional
remarks were not merely exclamatory, but admonitory as
well. The indignant Lucia declared that he might have
had some excuse for scolding her if she had allowed
him to make the tea of the dish-water, but having confessed
the fact it was an act of monstrous injustice to blame
her - "besides", she added most naively, "I had often done
it before and no harm ever came of it." I recommended
the girl to seek a place as portress for which she thought
herself particularly fitted and in which opinion I now fully
concurred - and gave orders to have her place filled as
soon as could be done conveniently - but for my life I
could not have uttered a word of blame to this simple-
hearted creature, though it was hard to preserve a becoming
gravity. The horror of my English maid added not a little
to the comic of the scene.
Plana came in again this morning, to bring us
some of his mathematical tomes, and we found it less
difficult to talk with him than usual. He is not very
hopeful about Italy, distrusts Bonaparte as he always
calls him, and blames the surrender of Savoy. Family
pride
and local jealousy, however, he thinks the worst sources of mischief
"Ce sont nos princes, nos ducs, nos contes, nos marquis, nos barons,
qui abiment tout!"
Madame de Lima
has just
spent a half-hour
with me, and, as the diplomatic chill wears off, I find her
much more interesting. We paid Mme. Benedetti a
visit this afternoon and I found her very charming. No
one who knows the East would be likely to mistake her
Oriental origin. She is now far finer looking, Mr Marsh
thinks, than when first married, and
her
manners are very graceful
and fascinating. The Americans complain greatly of the insincerity
of these polished Europeans & Orientals, but I must confess
that, for my own part, as a matter of social comfort, I like
much better a little meaningless courtesy, than an
excess of that Anglo-Saxon bluntness, which quite as often proceeds
from
arrogance and censoriousness, and
as
from a love of truth.
Mrs Wadsworth from Gennssrio with Miss Motley, & one
of her sons, is here for a day on her way to Rome.
Sunday Nov. 3.
Mrs Wadsworth and her party spent an hour
or two with us today, and we had what Charles Lamb
would have called a good Sabbath day's curse l on the fomenters
of this wretched rebellion. I am glad to say, however, that our self-
-respect, to say nothing of higher Christian restraints did not allow
us to use such language as our Southern sisters with all
their boasted superior refinement, employ in their private let-
-ters as well as in their daily conversation. Later Madam
Bartholoeyns sat with me for an hour - a very pleasing English
woman who has spent several years in America.
Godard's balloon silk - manufactured at Turin -
to be used without varnish.
In the evening the Abbé Baruffi came in as usual. He had
another anecdote of Plana's. When the Baron was dining
one day in company with Lascaris, a Greek, who claimed to
be a direct descendant of the Paleologues of Byzantium
he addressed the Greek as "une molecule des anciens Pal-
-eologues - quoique doeteuse." Mr Tottenham gave us
the other day an account of an interview of his with Plana, on
which occasion he
had
taken with him a friend of Lord Palmerston
who desired an introduction to the great mathematician. The
Baron happened at the moment to be greatly irritated at the
opposition manifested by the English toward the projected
Suez Canal, and he took advantage of this occasion to send
his lordship certain messages. These messages Mr Tottenham
declined to repeat, but characterized them as "pithy and
forcible rather than complimentary." Our impressions of the
Italian character in one respect at least are becoming more
and more [illegible] convictions. There is not the
least
foundation
at this day - whatever may have been the case formerly - for
the charge of want of manly independence so often brought
against them. We had also this evening a little
quiet talk with the abbé as to the prospects of the Suez Canal
He admits much of what we had half suspected from the
retinence
reticence
of Lep Lesseps - that there is much embarrassment
from many sources, chiefly from the fact that English opposition
has confined the taking of stock in the enterprise almost
entirely to France, thus giving
it
a national character & so
depriving
it,
in a great measure, of all general sympathy.
In this way they are pressed for funds, and he also confesses
that the engineers are losing heart - even the blind old Paleo-
-capa begins to shake his head. In time the object will no
doubt be accomplished, but not in such hot haste as has
been predicted. The prospects for the Mont Cenis tunnel
too, according to the observations made in August by the
abbé in person, are not immediately brilliant. The
necessity of lining
with brick
the whole tunnel as far as they have
advanced on this side
has
greatly increased the estimated expense.
How soon the character of the rock may change so as to
make this unnecessary cannot be foreseen.
Monday Nov 4th
The rumor, which has now become quite
loud, of the probable recommencement of hostilities with
Austria in the spring, gets some credit with us from
the sudden & total cessation of all offers of military
service in the American army. The Countess de la Torre
sent a note last evening asking Mr Marsh to call on
her to examine letters she had just received from Mr San-
ford and Col. Fardella. Mr Marsh declined as civilly
as possible, but proposed asked her to send the letters
or such extracts from them as she wished
desired
him to see,
with a note stating her wishes, and promised to give
them the necessary attention. This will probably
relieve him from further annoyance in that quarter.
Tuesday Nov. 5
Mr Marsh dined to-day at the Prussian Ministers - a
dinner in honour of Mr Benedetti. It was a diplomatic affair
purely, and as Count Brasier de St Simon is wifeless, or sensé
to be so, there were no ladies present. The dinner was very fine
and in the best style. Mr Marsh had an opportunity to
talk a good deal with Baron Ricasoli on agricultural
subjects, but especially about the drainage and recovery
of the Maremma. The Baron was much pleased to find
some one who felt an interest in what he himself had so
much at heal heart, and promises Mr Marsh the fullest
information as to what has been already done, and the most
desirable facilities to examine the work going on. How
much I wish we had the time and means to go as we
should like from place to place here to gather such
information as can only be acquired on the spot. In this
way we might make ourselves infinitely more useful to our
country and this - but our Florence trip has taught us that
even if no ten days rule existed, our salary would will
not allow us to indulge in these excursions.
Wednesday Nov 6
I should have mentioned yesterday a visit
from poor Madame Lannoy, the widow of the late Belgian
Minister. It was very kind of her to come and see me under
the circumstances, but had I known that she would have
been willing to see a stranger, I would not
have
failed to
have gone to her [illegible] however great the effort might
have been. She seems a very frank and kindly person
and, though I have heard so much of her want of social
qualities, I am sure we should have got on nicely
together and I much regret that she leaves Turin so soon.
The Countess de la Torre was not so easily bluffed off. She sends
to say she will wait Mr Marsh's leisure and on her return
from Milan will again [illegible] solicit a visit!
Thursday Nov 4th
Madame Matteucci came to see me this
morning which I was most glad of. I hope we may be
able to have a little more rational intercourse with them
than we are likely to have with what is called the Society
of Turin. It is all very pleasant while the novelty lasts, but
from what we hear and see we become every day more and
more convinced that both the Diplomatic and the exclusively
fashionable circle will be speedily exhausted. Mad. Matteucci
tells me what I was very sorry to learn, that the An Arconati,
from whose society we expected so much, were going to pass
the winter in Egypt.
Friday Nov. 8th
Miss Roberts spent an hour or two with me this
morning. To my utter amazement, and to Carrie's no less, I found
she actually believed that certain table-turnings at which
the four Misses Tottenham and Carrie assisted the other evening
at her ho rooms, were accomplished by some mysterious
agency. For a long time I could not think her serious,
but it turned out that she was quite so. I then told her that
Carrie said she pushed with all her strength and
supposed the other girls were doing the same thing.
Even this would not convince my friend of much faith, who
declared that the table turned even when Carrie was not
in the circle. "But," I said, "have you questioned the others
carefully, as to what they did?" "Oh, I am quite sure they did
nothing - in fact the oldest one seemed quite frightened." And
so she ran on - and asked me if I did not think it was
electricity. I laughed, and told her she must first convince me
of the facts before I should puzzle myself about explanations, but
suggested that it would be as philosophical to attribute it to the
evil eye. When she had left, I questioned Carrie as to what
she supposed her companions thought. She declares it never
once entered her mind that any one present supposed the table
was turned otherwise that than by their own hands and feet, and
that they were amused by the odd answers from the raps
just as they would have been by any other ingenious
game. I record this circumstance merely as a specimen of the
evidence on which these marvels rest. Miss Roberts has caused
quite a sensation in Turin by her account of that evening's
miracles - and Miss Roberts is really
one of
the most cultivated
women I have met here - well acquainted with German
and Italian literature as well as English. I should indeed
despair of woman's ever becoming a reasonable creature,
if I did not find two thirds of the other sex, with all their
superior advantages, just as inconsequent, just as scatter-brained.
Saturday Nov 9.
Tourt, the Swiss Minister spent some time with
Mr Marsh this morning. He certainly does not love Louis Nap.
and thinks his conduct toward Switzerland not the most
grateful when it is remembered that the Republic armed a hundred thousand
men to with which to maintain her refusal to decline him up to Louis
Philippe. He does not yet believe that Ricasoli will resign - at
least he says he has the authority of the Baron himself for saying
he will not do so without the express request of the king or an
overwhelming defeat in parliament. He says he should think
it cowardly to leave his post now. The kind goes to the to be present
at the opening of the rail-road to Ancona, to-morrow.
Sunday Nov 10
We had an unusually quiet day to-day - like a New England
Sunday. After church Mr Marsh read me two of Robertson's
wonderful sermons and even our evening was uninterrupted
by visitors. It is a pity that there is not some suitable building
for the services of the English Church. The congregation is
often quite a large one as there
are
so many English travellers
who spend sunday here on their
way
to Southern Italy. Mr Marsh
insists that the presence of a fair proportion of Lords & Leddies [Ladies]
greatly stimulates and encourages the preacher who is otherwise
apt to be a little dull. To-day, for an example, he says
the aristocratic element was evidently large, and the
sp sermon spirited in proportion. The To use Mr M.'s words
"In the comparison of the good man to 'the tree planted etc',
one could hear the very leaves of him rustle!"
Monday Nov 11th
The most contradictory rumous rumors continue
to circulate about the intentions of the French Emperor
with regard to Italian affairs. Probably nothing is known
except by those do not contribute to the journals. That there
is a general ferment all over Europe is the only thing in which
all agree. The Countess Marini came in to offer to go with
me to pay some visits - an offer which it has been intimated
to me I had better decline. As this is the second time it
has been made I hardly know how I shall avoid it in the
end, nor can I see any reason why I should not accept this
amiable old lady's services as well as anothers - but society knows
I suppose, and a stranger does well to take its hints till sure
of their injustice.
Nov 12th, Tuesday,
The Marchioness Arconati paid me a visit of thanks
this morning for some letters which Mr Marsh had sent her to
secure
for her
the attention of our consul at Civita Vecchia and the Consul
General at Alexandria. I regret extremely for our sakes that
she is
not
to be here this winter - The Marquis goes to Egypt later in
the winter. Madame Matteucci who came with her pleased
me even more than on her first visit. Later in the day
Mrs Tottenham brought in Mrs Stanley, a frank Englishwoman of
very agreeable manners, and seemingly disposed to be very friendly.
As her husband is of the family of Lord Derby, she is of course
in the very best society here, and she gives me some
information that tends to free me from much embarrassment.
In the evening Mr Marsh went to Ricasoli's first evening
reception. A large number of gentlemen were present, and
Mr M. thinks he shall be able to pick up
on these occasions
a good many
facts as to individual character & feeling, as well as about political
matters generally. Talking with Minebrea [Menabrea] about the number of
Italians who were [illegible] entering the American service, Mr Marsh
expressed his satisfaction at the prospect of an infusion of
some of the blood of the Latin races into our population by
way of antidote against the Celtic element now so large. The
minister replied, "Ces Irlandais sont embêtés par le Catholicism."
He may have coined a word to convey his meaning, but he
made it plain at least. The signs of the times are certainly
growing more & more ominous of ruin to the power of him who
still dares blasphemously to call himself the Man-God -, l'-
Uom-Dio.
Nov 13th
The death of the king of Portugal following so immediately that
of his young brother, and the alarming illness of Prince
Auguste excites much comment, and some suspicion at
least among the common people. The yellow fever is certainly
a sufficient explanation of this sad mortality, but the people
will want strong evidence of the fact. The liberals will believe
that the Jesuits are capable of any amount of wholesale
murder even of a royal family that
when it
has been wicked enough
to acknowledge the king of Italy and to propose an alliance
with his rebellious house - that has been, moreover, so
recreant to the true principles of goverment as to admit
that even kings should be restrained by laws.
The Marquis Arconati made us a long visit this morning,
a man of broad views and most philanthropic spirit.
I wish some of his Boston friends could have the benefit
of his remarks upon the peculiar institution, and upon
the course they have taken with regard to it, especially
the effect on Europeans of their semi-defence of it when here
last. - By taking a drive we missed a visit from the
Bunsens.
Nov 14th. Our consul for Naples, Dr Armsby, with his wife,
son and two young ladies belonging to their family party dined
with us to-day. They seem very right on the great home question
so far as a vigorous prosecution of the war goes at the least.
Mrs A__ is very handsome and very wide awake. They
are well supplied with letters to prominent Obscurantists in
Italy by the American Ultramontanists - a fact that may give
them some trouble if they are not very cautious. This is another
proof of the vigilant watch kept upon our diplomatic policy in Italy
by Hughes and his tools. The amiable Mr Chandler of Philadelphia
volunteers to advise the new consul as to the associates he should
cultivate, and furnishes him letters accordingly. Other prominent men
of the same liberal persuasion have done the same. What Dr. As
own views may be I don't know, but if he is but a plain-hearted
Protestant, uninitiated into the mysteries of the Roman system
he is in a fair way to be entirely misled as to the actual state
of things in Italy, and to become an instrument of these crafty
prelates to propagate
their
monstrous misrepresentations. I hope we
may be able to put him on his guard at least.
The accounts the Dr & Mr Armsby give of the battle of Bulls
Run and the panic in Washington that followed it are most
thrilling - but I feel the
too
deeply to write about home matters.
God save our land - confound treason - and blast with the
lightning of His own right hand "the fair tree of slavery"! Amen.
Nov. 15th - Baruffi promises us a notice by himself of General
Crotti di Costigliole who died in Turin a few days since. The
Abbé dined with the old man in company with a large
circle of friends about fifteen days ago. Their venerable
host sat at table with them and was very cheerful, but
told them he was there to enjoy seeing others dine, not to dine
himself as he was now of an age when he must again live
like a child. But though he neither eat nor drank, he
was merry enough to sing songs, and he favored the company
with a long one of his own, composed when he was retreating
from Moscow with Napoleon in that awful winter. I should
much like to
have
heard what music & what verse could be born
of those scenes & circumstances of horror. The Abbé has came to us
after having first paid a visit to _ _ an eminent physician of Turin
who is ill. The patient informed his friend that he was "gravement
malade," that he had already been bled five times within two days.
The Abbé thinks a little more of the same practice will put an
end to the disease and the sufferer at the same time. He says
that some twenty years ago, finding a friend of his who was
ill had already been bled seventeen times, he ventured to
remonstrate with the attending physician, but to no purpose.
The patient died of course, but his medical attendant said
with triumph "I succeeded in arresting the inflamation, however!"
Sat. Nov. 16th
The journals continue to be filled with the same con-
flicting rumors about changes in the ministry. The emperor of
the French, by adopting Fould's financial scheme, is considered
to have made important concessions to the friends of liberal gov.
A second highway robbery occurred 2 days since between
Florence & Bologna over the La Futa pass. It is astonishing
that the goverment does not establish a few small military
stations at points that command a view of the road
through the least frequented portions of the pass. The expense
would be small inconsiderable and the disgrace saved
very great. Count Alfieri, one of the deputies, was this time one
of the plundered.
Sunday Nov 17th
Baron Poerio, old Bomba's famous victim, spent
an hour with us to-day. He seems a man of about fifty five or
sixty, very quiet in his manner, with a slightly sad expression of
countenance which however does not detract from the
expression of
bonhomie
that is perhaps his most distinguishing characteristic.
Ten years of imprisonment have not in the least soured this noble
nature, and so broad is the mantle of his charity that it covers
Bomba himself at least with the shadow of silence. He however makes
no secret of his liberalism, though he deeply laments the ill-
judged, headlong zeal of Mazzini & his partisans. He firmly
believes in a great future for United Italy, though he is prepared for
years of patient struggle, sometimes even threatening storms, before
the haven can be fully reached. Mr. Tourte, the Swiss Minister,
came in while Poerio was still with us. The conversation at once
turned on the defeat just sustained by _ F in Switzerland.
M. Tourte attributes his fall entirely to French intrigues made
successful
by uniting the radicals of the Mazzini school wth the reactionists.
"I do not wish to be intolerant," - added the Swiss Chargé "but
really your Catholicism is scarcely
less
troublesome to us in Switz-
erland
than to you in Italy - it is incompatible with free institutions!" This
remark, which was made apparently under much excitement, and
addressed to Poerio, was ands answered by the latter with a calm
smile, and, "You are quite right, and we will rejoice together
when the incubus is removed." Mr Tourte is, I believe, a true
patriot, and a frank-hearted man every way. He gave us an
amusing account of a conversation between several prominent
members of the diplomatic corps at the club the other evening
The death of the young king of Portugal being mentioned, it was
agreed that in him had fallen the only crowned head in Europe
(except the mysterious one that wears the diadem of France) each
minister only that was furnished with even the ordinary modicum
of brains - each minister only excluding his own agust [august] sovereign
from the general sentence. It is now currently believed that
that [sic]
the
brutal heir apparent to the throne of Prussia has recently
[See Text Region Part 2]
* A curious proof of the utterly untrustworthy character of common reports
concerning the private life of princes. Time has proved how false all
these tales were. Nov. 1885.
beaten his wife, - the daughter of the Queen of England! His ill
treatment of her has long been known*. I had a good deal
of talk with Mr Tourte about the Gasparins. He is most enthu-
siastic in his admiration of the genius of the Countess, who, he
insists, has breathed the feu sacré in her husband - a man
never distinguished for ability of any kind till she found how
to kindle him into one of the beacon lights of his time.
Monday Nov 18th
Ricasoli, it seems, is determined to take
act upon
no hints from
a foreign power that his resignation would be acceptable.
It is, he says, for his own king and country to sustain him
or to disapprove his policy. By their decision he will most
cheerfully abide, but other human master he acknowledges
none. He may
very
possibly be put down by the union of both
parties of extremists when parliament meets, but a stronger
hand, a cooler head, a bolder, truer heart will never be
found to take his place. Heroic he is in its loftiest sense,
the very stuff of which martyrs are made. The blows
at the papacy do not slacken. A pamphlet has recently
been published purporting to be the private history of Pio IX.
How much of fact there is in it we cannot of course
say, but it is fully credited by the common people &
will not help his popularity. Thousands of copies are already
in circulation. Madame
Barthelagns [Bartholeyns]
came to me again to-day -
and I feel quite sure of a true friend in her. She is very
lovely - Mr Rice, our consul at Genoa, came to take leave
and Mr Marsh (forgetting I supposed for the moment that he had
married an Irish lady who was most likely a R. Catholic)
said to him, in alluding to the good opinion that many persons
had formerly entertained of Pius Ninth, "I am happy to say I was
never taken in by him. Talk of a good pope? You might
as well talk of a good devil! The one is as possible as the
other." I reminded him, after Mr Rice
left;
of the nationality of
his wife. "I did not forget it," he said, "but we have American
sympathizers with that Roman tyranny on all sides of us, &
I shall speak wherever there is any chance that my words
may have some weight."
Tuesday, Nov. 19.
Mr Marsh went this morning to the
Stupinigi, on a hunting party by invitation from the Grand
cacciatore of his S. M.
The game was abundant, but
the skill of the sportsmen not remarkable. Mr Marsh
brought home two hares and
a
pheasant, and though this is his
first
experiment after twenty years of complete non-practice
none of the rest did better. It was a pleasant recreation
for all, however, and gave Mr Marsh an opportunity to see
[illegible] his [illegible] brother diplomats more familiarly than he has
done before - also some of the principal officers about the king.
His kingship dodged as usual. The de Castros came in
just before dinner - they are much distressed at the death
of their young king of whose rare virtues and accomplishments
they, and all who have known him here, speak with sad
enthusiasm. His heroic self-devotion during the prevalence of
the yellow-fever that
which
carried off 13000 of the inhabitants
of Lisbon, has no parallel in royal annals since the days
St. Louis. Our little princess Pia may well mourn over
an event that deprives her of such a bridegroom, and throws
her perhaps into the power of some royal brute alike de-
ficient in heart and brains.
Nov. 20th
The adjourned parliament met this morning - for details
of its proceedings see paper on previous page. We should be inconsolable
at the terms offered the pope, if it were well understood that they
were submitted only to put the Italian Government in the right past
dispute on the part of the most zealous bigot, but under the most
entire certainty that the besotted old daddy who styles himself the
Uom-Dio would never accept them. Ricasoli was as calm before
the chamber as Socrates could have been.
The royal physician, Riberi, on whom the Sangrados of Turin
have
been
practising for the last week, was
to-day
gathered to his fathers with a
pomp & circumstance truly imposing.
The young man taken with other brigands and shot at S. Giovanni
was a nephew of Marshal Arnaud.
Nov 21st
The papers say to-night that the opposition will
have to baisser la tête, before Ricasoli who stands so firm
and cool. We shall see. Madame Pulszky spent a half
hour with me this afternoon. She says her husband is dis-
-tressed that our government does not take the only
distinct issue possible in this civil war, and put itself
in the right before the whole world. He thinks the course
of the Italian government in thus temporizing, a no
less grave mistake.
Friday Nov 22.
Mr Marsh found a very agreeable company with
Baron Ricasoli this evening - among them Salvagnoli
the distinguished engineer
doctor
who has the chief direction of the
drainage of the Maremme. Mr Marsh learned many curious
facts from him and the engineer was equally delighted
to find some one who took so lively an interest in this
great project which has fairly earned for itself the title
of a success. The premier himself sent over, a day or two
since some very interesting books on the subject and Mr
Marsh intends to visit this remarkable locality in person
this Spring if he can get leave from the State Department.
He had also a good deal of talk with Sauli who was
the first minister from Sardinia to the Ottoman port.
He was delighted to find that Mr Marsh had also been
so long in Constantinople. In alluding to the length
of time since his own mission there, he h told Mr Marsh
that it was before he, Mr Marsh, was born. On being asked to
name the year he said it was 1825. "vous n'étiez du moins
qu'un nourisson à ce temps là." Mr Marsh assured him that
he was something of a boy at that time.
Saturday Nov 23.
Every body is glad to learn today that
General Cialdini has been pacified and resumes his
military command. It is also asserted that Garibaldi
has been appointed commanding general of the Italian
Volunteer Corps. This would seem to indicate some change
of policy, though no one ventures to predict what. Things
look very serious in the Neapolitan provinces. Towns of
considerable size are sacked by the marauders who are
aided and abetted by the pope and fugitive Francis.
An engagement took place lately between the government
forces and these royal and consecrated brigands in which
the loss of life was very great. San Martino has ac-
-cepted a place in the Ministry*.
*a mistake
Madame Benedetti,
who made me a visit today, charmed me not less
than at our first interview.
Sunday, 24th Nov.
Sir James Hudson came in with Dr Savagn-
ola this morning. There is a fascinating, friendly frankness
about Sir James which seems the result of a good heart no
less than of good-breeding. The worthy doctor with his limping
French and his unhappy Florentine gha was well nigh
unintelligible. Luckily I happened to be in a good mood,
and the spirit of divination was strong upon me, so
we got on nicely. Matteucci made us merry for a half
hour. There [is] something satirical in his whole manner &
conversation - very good-natured now, but I should
fancy that later in life it might assume something
of the cynical. Speaking of Franklin he said, after
much high praise, "mais il etait très fin, tres rusé, cet
animal là!"
Monday, Nov 25th
Our news from America is in some
respects more encouraging - the naval expedition
has met with some success at least, though not all
we could have wished. Fremont's removal fills me with
indignation for many reasons - not the least being my
conviction that he has been they
a
marytr [illegible]
to
his manly
proclamation.
Tuesday Nov. 26
Mr Marsh went to Baron Ricasoli's reception
again this evening - found a large number as usual. There
seems however to be something like depression on the minds
of the wisest liberals. The immense difficulties in the way of
any evident progress
towards Rome & Venice,
give a lever of great power into the hands
of the violent Mazzinists.
Wednesday, Nov 27th
We have a very interesting letter to-day from
Mr Norton of Cambridge. He judges the course of the
administration just as Mr Marsh has done at this distance.
Would to heaven we could have a little more hon-
esty and a little more manhood in our councils!
Mr Norton writes hopefully as to the steady progress of
right opinion among the people and believes that slavery
has already received a mortal wound. He announces
the death of Mrs Putnam's only son, a fine youth of 21
killed
in the wretched affair of Ball's Bluff. Oh the boundless
guilt of such a rebellion! God help the mother - she has
proved her faith by her works. Dr Holmes' son
also received a severe wound.
Thursday Nov. 28
We drive out now almost every day abute
about three. A more lovely autumn can hardly be
imagined. Thermometer about 40. Fahr. morning & evening,
during the day about 50 - but always clear for several hours
every day, and the mountains are now most gorgeous.
Scarcely an hour's rain for months &.
Friday, Nov 29
Held a council with Mrs Stanley this morning about
visits etc - Mr Stanley came in before all the great questions
were settled, and was so much excited about the outrage
committed on the English flag by our Government that
we could talk of nothing else. Mr Marsh went to a
royal hunt at Racconigi
to-day,
but it was Hamlet without
the prince - the king, as usual, not being there. The
diplomatic corps however seem to enjoy these excursions very
much. Sir James Hudson thinks nothing will come of the Trent
& San Jacinto affair. I trust so for the sake of humanity.
Sat. Nov. 30th,
Miss Roberts, who has just returned from an excursion
to Florence, reports the English visitors & residents there as
very generally wishing for the return of the Grand. Duke.
The best reason they have to give is the increased dear-
ness of living there under the sway of the "re galantuomo".
It is certainly quite natural that when the poor are
paid for their labour the rich can be served only
at an increased expense, and it is a very selfish
thing on the part of the Tuscans not to be willing
to endure an infamous tyranny in order that certain
Englishmen may come to Florence to enjoy a delicious
climate and all the treasures of art, and at the same
save money enough to make a more decided figure
in London the next season. Things look a little
dark for the good cause just now - but when I see this
retrograde spirit manifested by the European & English
aristocracy generally, I often think of a remark of Madame
Wildenbruck, the wife of the Prussian minister then at
Constantinople. Speaking of the retrograde movements
after the revolutions of '48, she said, "The people, on
those occasions should showed so much moderation,
took no revenge for old wrongs - and now we are
proving false to all our most sacred promises -
oh, I tell our princes a day will come in which
the nations will rise with a different spirit from
that of '48 and then there will be no more pardon."
Sunday, Dec 1st
Count de Masignac, secretary of the French
Legation, paid us a visit this morning - a quiet gentle-
manlike person with no nonsense about him. The
Hochschilds came in later - they both speak English
well. Rumors of the breaking up of the It__ Ministry
very current again to-day. Prospect of a war between
America & England not diminishing as it seems most
likely that the commanding officer of the San Jacinto
had positive orders from his government to do as he did.
Monday Dec 2.
Between the melancholy prospect of war between
England & the U.S. and the anxious aspect of Italian affairs
we feel rather blue. Still to-day the probabilities are that
Wilks [Wilkes] acted without orders in which case the Trent
difficulty may be more easily adjusted.
Mr Wheeler, our consul at Genoa, came to Turin Dec 3, on his way
to Paris and thence to America. He has been quite unwell, and is miserably
homesick - the latter being, we think, the cause of his illness. We
persuaded him to give up going further, and to return to
Genoa till he was better able to bear the winter journey to Paris.
In the mean time he may perhaps recover his courage.
Madame Plana & daughter were with me this morning.
Tuesday 3d Dec
Mrs Tottenham told me this morning some
thing of the history of the duke de Sforza &
his English wife - The duke, it seems, was detested
and disowned by his mother in his very baby hood,
- she having conceived a suspicion that he was a changeling.
Then came confiscation & banishment from the Roman
Territory - his birth place - and he finally saw himself
reduced to the necessity of earning his own bread, which he
did very successfully by miniature-painting. He married
in England & now fortune smiles again and he is affluent
& respected, though not permitted to return to Rome.
Mr Marsh was again at baron Ricasoli's this evening, but
few persons except the dip. corps were present - the
deputies etc being in caucus.
Wednesday 4th Dec
We left a few cards to-day on some persons
whom it is said to be de riguer to visit & we may
have a good deal more to do in this way later.
Garibaldi arrived in Turin to-day.
Thursday 5th Dec
We dined at the French ministers this eveng
and nearly all the dip. corps were present. The dinner
was magnificent, the host agreeable, the hostess most
facinatingly amiable. Without being positively beautiful
Madame Benedetti takes all hearts. The ladies were
well dressed and generally fine-looking. The Countess
Castiglione appeared very amiable - but is plain - the
Countess Arborio de Gattinara very pretty, and blazing
with diamonds. Mr Marsh went to Rattazzi
Ratazzi's reception after the dinner. He says this
rival of Ricasoli is a man of very pleasing address.
Friday Dec 6. A very quiet day - no visitors except Mme Matteucci
and Miss Roberts - the latter gave an amusing account of a scene
in the Chambers
yesterday,
the heroine of which was a dame who says
she is a French-woman by birth, an Italian by election, and
claims a Count __ of Rome for her husband. She wore
the
scarlet Garibaldi jacket - her bonnet garnished with red, white
and green - and she made a low running commentary on
the debate as it proceeded - her remarks eliciting, from the
gentlemen of the opposition near her, frequent repressed plaudits
of, "bene! bene! benissimo!" Garibaldi left for Genoa suddenly this
morning - giving few time to see him.
Saturday Dec 7th
My first regular reception day and evening.
Every thing went off pleasantly. Our visitors, as I wished it should
be the first time, were not numerous, but sufficiently so
to make those who came feel at ease. Madame di Lima
grows more & more interesting to me, and now the first ice
has given way, I find her warmhearted & frank, as well as very
sensible. Mrs Bartholeyns brought Mme Berghmans with
her - a Philadelphian recently married to Mr Blondel's sec.
of Legation - the lady, I fancy, belongs to our aristocracy of
wealth. The chief talk of those who had been in Parliament
to-day, was the extraordinary behaviour of the Franco-Italian
lady who made herself so conspicuous on thursday. It seems she
went to the Chambers again on Friday, and encouraged by the
applause of the preceeding day, she raised her voice, when
she wished to make a note on the speaker's remarks, so that she
was distinctly heard over the whole immense hall. An allusion
being made to the anxiety of the Romans to shake off the
Pope altogether - the [illegible] red woman cried out, "yes,
yes! they would turn him out neck & heels, if the French
would let them!" This
was
more than the Chamber thought quite
consistent with its dignity to permit, and a guardiano was
sent to escort this female patriot out of the Tribune.
Saturday, however, she was again in her place, and after
a heroic and successful effort of some hours to control
the spirit that possessed her, the name of the Pope again
proved too much for her, and she exclaimed, "He is Anti-
Christ! he is AntiChrist!" - and again the disturber of the
peace was ejaculated. Perhaps it is well to have incidents
like these to talk about, as in this way we manage to avoid
the momentous political questions of the hour which fill
the thoughts of all, but which cannot prudently be discussed
among those who differ so widely in opinion - whose interests
seem so diverse.
Sunday Dec 8th
Mr Duro, the Spanish chargé, came
in this evening - his French, though fluent & correct, is so
marked by a Spanish accent as to confuse his auditor.
He, like most of his persuasion here, is an agreeable man
socially, but does not impress one with the idea of much force.
Monday, 9th Dec
The discussions are still warm in parliament.
but the opposition lack a leader and unity of purpose.
Ricasoli keeps perfectly cool, and, strong in the consciousness
of his own pure purposes, he fears only for the cause, not
for himself. As Mr Duro said last evening, there can be but
one opinion of the character of this man. We are so distracted
by the state of our own country, however, that our interest in
Italian affairs, if not less deep, is less hopeful than it once was.
Tuesday, Dec 10th
The Countess Castiglione paid me a visit to-day.
She is the most intelligent woman I have met here - has
evidently thought a good deal more than she has read, &
is not the less fresh for that. She is not handsome, but has
charming manners. Speaking of America, she said, "Oh, we
are so sorry to see a break among your States, just now,
especially, when we have been struggling to so hard for a
United Italy, and we have pointed to you so often as
a proof that a people may be free and yet peaceful &
orderly." I said, "but you know, it is Slavery, not Freedom,
that has brought this shame upon us." "Yes, yes, and it
seems to me so strange that your Government does not
take this occasion to crush it forever." I had no other
answer than to express the believe belief that its des-
truction was inevitable.
Wednesday Dec 11.
Our old friend Baron
Tecco, minister from Sardinia to Constantinople when
we first knew him, now just returned from Spain, was
with us an hour to-day. He insists that France might have settled
the difficulty between Italy & Spain if she had wished to do so.
He further more asserts that in all negotiations between France
& England, the latter is made the dupe of the former by the
superior craft of the Emperor & his ministers. He agrees
intirely with Mr Marsh in the opinion that France is
now doing her utmost to excite a war between E. & Am.
solely for the purpose of making herself mistress of Europe
the moment the strength of England shall be drawn off
by a war with us. Mr Marsh sounded the Baron a
little as to the policy of Victor Emmanuel's offering himself
as mediator between the two powes [powers] now in so threatening an
attitude towards each other, but he evidently does not think
it safe for Italy to risk irritating either of two parties both
of whom
now
profess a strong interest in her prosperity. Mr M
received a very gentlemanly letter from C. Schurz on this
subject yesterday. Mrs Stanley came in to tell me of a
conversation of hers with the Marchesa Doria, and to propose
that I shall should make the Marchesa my aidecamp
in this my first social campaign here.
The vote whether the ministry should be sustained
or not was taken to-day - and the Opposition proved
about seventy to two hundred & twenty. [illegible] Of course
the ministry stands firm.
Dec 12th
Mr Marsh went with Mrs Stanley to the
Duchess Sforza's this evening - a large reception, but
ladies in robes montantes, dark silks generally. He
made many pleasant acquaintances - some remarkable
We saw the other morning a baker who had a
number of iron pails filled
with
brightly kindled coals
which he seemed to be carrying from house to
house where he was taking his bread for the morning.
On inquiry we were told that many families had no
other fire during the winter than this which is furnished
each day by the baker. They call the coals so lighted,
'braze,' and this fire is left in the room till it goes
quite out. The air is somewhat softened in this way, and
it is found more economical than any other mode of
getting the little artificial heat which the Italian thinks
consistent with health.
ones - for example two officers who had served in the Russian
campaign with Napoleon. One of these officers was is
now ninety years old, and the other, though a boy
compared with him, is no nursling according to the
common standard. These brothers in arms met, for the first
time since that fatal Retreat, some weeks ago and the
the [sic] scene is said by Mrs Stanley, who brought it about,
to have been very touching.
Dec 13th
Miss Blackwell came to us from Florence to-day. Mr Marsh
made visits with Mrs Stanly [Stanley] - likes the social aspect of things very well.
If our country and the world generally were less Ishmaelitish
we should manage to be well contented.
Dec 14th
The Countess Castiglione came to see me at one this
morning to make some arrangements about our presentation to
the Duchess of Genoa. The Duchess wished me to be presented
immediately after Mr Marsh on Monday in full court-dress
train & all, & after my own audience she wished me to present
La Baronne Hochschild and Madame de Bunsen. I saw at once
that more standing would be required to go through all this
than was possible for me & told the Countess it would
be utterly out of my power to do all this. She very
kindly said she had anticipated this, knowing my
very delicate health, and had told her Royal Highness
she thought it out of the question - that on this
suggestion the Duchess had said that if I preferred
she would give me an audience particulière some
other day, and I might depute my rights as doyenne to
Madame Benedetti. This proposal I accepted thankfully.
The Countess is very charming in manner and I should
think no less so in character, with much thought & culture.
She is liberal in the highest sense of the word.
After the Countess left me a perfect tide of Ministers & Ministresses
Marquises Comtesses & Baronnes flowed in till 5 in the
evening. Among them were many nice, charming people
at a first interview. The eveni[n]g circle was more
democratic. Among my day visitors was that wonderfully
graceful creature, the Countess Ghiselieri.
Sunday 15 Dec
To-day we are startled & shocked by the news of
the death of Prince Albert of England. Poor Victoria! The great ones
of the earth are falling fearfully around us, while the war-notes
of the angry nations grow more & more terrible. These are
days of great import, but who is bold enought to presume to
explain their tremendous significance!
Pulszky says his letters from England say the Barings
have no fear of war between E. & America - bankers
are not the least reliable of straws by which to
judge of the wind.
Monday 16th Dec
Mr Marsh was received by
S.A.R. the Duchess of Genoa to-day at 1/2 past 3. The Count
Sartirana de Brëme first met him, then Count Castiglione
& [illegible] Count Gattinara were presented to him. Soon
after the charming Countess Castiglione came into the room
talked with him a few minutes & then joined the Duchess
Almost immediately after the door of the Duchess' appartment
was thrown open and Mr M__ was entered quite alone.
The Duchess advanced some steps towards him as he
advanced approached her, and they both continued standing
during the interview. Her Royal Highness was [illegible] easy
and affable, and the conversation lasted about ten minutes.
The Countess Castiglione & the Countess Gattinara stood
behind the Duchess in black velvet dresses with trains of about
two yards in length - the Duchess herself, too, was in black
the court being in mourning for the king of Portugal. Mr M.
thought the Duchess sensible, and was as charmed with the
Countess Castiglione as I have been.
Tuesday, Dec 17th
A note from the Countess Castiglione sent
at 3 in the afternoon, fixes tomorrow 1/2 past 3 for my
private audience with the Duchess, and requests me
to come in robe montante and [illegible] denil or demi-denil.
This forces me to have a corsage montant of black
velvet, made during the night & morning, as having
first been requested to come de colletée I have only
the low body ready. The Countess, I am sure, asked
the Duchess to receive me in this dress as more comfort-
able for me, which it certainly will be.
Wednesday Dec 18th
Mr Marsh went with me to the palace where
I was received first by the Countess C. then by her R. H.
Though the Countess conducted me to the presence of the
Duchess, she did not in any way announce me, it being of
course
more complimentary to my position to leave me to myself.
Her Highness, who was in black velvet, with violet ribbons
in a pretty morning cap, received me by rising and ad-
vancing a few steps towards me, then placed me on the
sofa by her, and we talked as any other ladies might
on a morning visit, for about ten or fifteen minutes. The
Duchess then rose, and I of course immediately took
my leave. The only respect in which the interview
differed from any ordinary visit was the necessity of
of [sic] getting out of the long drawing room without turning my
back upon the Duchess. This required no small amount
of gymnastic curtseying to cover the awkwardness of the
manoeuvre, but thanks to the absence of the train, it
was not so difficult as it might have been. After very
kindly expressions of sympathy for my delicate health etc.
the Duchess asked many intelligent questions about our Oriental
life & travels, then talked of the United States, the war, etc
and finally spoke with admiration of the vie
serieuse which she understood to be so common
among the ladies of New England. By this vie
serieuse she evidently did not mean a vie devote
but simply a life of earnest occupation. I was surprised
to find she had ever given a thought to our habits
in this respect. - Mr Marsh went to Ratazzi's
reception this evening - but few present parliament having
a night session.
Thursday Dec 19th
We had a fine drive to-day - the trees gorgeous
with icicles & frost - the mountains resplendent with sunshine
& snow. Thermometer about 30 Fahr - Mr Marsh went in
to see the Countess D'Adda, wife of the Gov. a very pretty
woman.
Friday 20th
Our thoughts are so much absorbed by
the condition of our own country, and especially with
the threatened war with England - in which we do not yet
believe - that the events transpiring here, important as
they are, scarcely fix our attention. The ministry here
is said to be again in danger, but we doubt whether
it can be overthrown at present.
To-day I brought my two strong-minded Englishwomen
Miss Blackwell & Miss Roberts together. Never were two
forces more repellant. They gave each other one
keen glance and I saw at once that all was over,
before any thing but a salute had been exchanged.
We drove for two hours, I vainly endeavoring endeavouring
to overcome the antagonism on some one topic
at least. When we had set down Miss Roberts at
her own door I asked Miss B. why she had been
so perverse as not to talk with her. She answered
"I found her at the first glance so aggressive that
I could not speak to her without a sensation of revolt.
The very tie of her bonnet strings was defiant." I was
too much diverted to defend poor Miss R. - who, I dare
say, was impressed not much more pleasantly by Miss B.
Mr Marsh went with Mrs Stanley to the Countess D'Aglié
and to the Countess Sclopis this eveni[n]g finding a few of
the elite of Turin at both places.
Saturday Dec. 21st
This morning my visitors were numerous
and to a stranger at least very interesting. The
Countess Robilant, daughter of the Prussian Minister to Sardinia,
Truchsess, and the favorite of Carlo Alberto, was among
the number. She is no longer a beauty, but decidedly
an elegant woman. She and the Marquise D'Arvillars,
who was also here, were, perhaps even now are, at
the head of the Turinese grand monde. The Marquise is
very affable, and, though not handsome, good-looking. The
Marchesa Doria is a very striking woman, and
rather brilliant in conversation, but out of the eighteen
titled dames none pleased me so much as Madame
Peruzzi, the wife of the minister. She is a Florentine,
a cousin of Baron Ricasoli, and full of fire and true
independence. The Marchesa St Germain is still very
beautiful, though she was at Constantinople at the time
of the destruction of the janizaries and old enough to
remember it well - and though she has lost a
husband to whom she was devotedly attached and six
children. She seems like one who has suffered.
The Countess Castagnetto, a lady of the taboret, is
a charming dame of the olden time.
In the evening there were many more persons than on the
two preceeding saturdays, and every body seemed satisfied.
About half the dip. C. were present - Matteucci, the Pulszkys
and several other notorieties notorieties.
Sunday Dec 22
Miss Blackwell left for Paris this evening - otherwise
a very quiet day. The cold is steadily but slowly increasing
the thermometer having at last fallen to 22 F.
Monday Dec 23
Mr Marsh had several visits to pay this morning -
among others to the Countess Castiglione. I did not go out
and in fact felt very tired all day. It is pleasant to know
that with the spring we may hope for a release from these
social duties, and the mountains and the sea will once more
be our kingdoms.
Tuesday Dec 24
In returning some of my visits to-day, by a mistake
of mine about in the name of a lady who came on Saturday,
Mr Marsh went to see the Marquesa Rorà with whom
we had not even exchanged cards. The lady however, who
is an invalid, received him so cordially in her chamber &
and took the visit so naturally that we cannot speak of
it as a mistake and must [illegible] make the best we can
of it. The Marquesa was in her bed to which she
is confined, and yet
she
did the honors of a hostess with the
greatest composure. She is particularly handsome and
has great courtesy of manner. She promised to take us
next summer to her country-seat near Pignerolle.
Wednesday, Dec 25.
An A very quiet Christmas at home - except that
we went in the evening to the Teatro Reggio which opened to day.
The orchestra was fine, very fine, the singers only respectable,
but the ballet was admirable. One young creature performed
feats that Fanny Elsler would have found impossible. As
with music so with the dance, each generation seems gifted
with superior physical powers for of execution
superior to the last
but is there
any such gain in the true taste? The stage-curtain was a
picture containing some striking feature from each of the
principle Italian cities, as St Peters and the Coliseum
from Rome, the duomo and Campanile from Florence
the Cathedral from Milano the Superga from Torino
&c &c. all blended into a whole not so unharmonious
as might be supposed, and in the bright blue Italian
sky above, an angel was seen descending with the
Italian Tricolor on which stood out clearly the
white cross of Savoy. The costumes of the corps de ballet,
very rich and tasteful, illustrated every corner
of the new united kingdom. The principal danseuse
P. _ _ _ _
was very stout - a fact quite inconsistent with the enormous
amount of exercise she must take - but she was the
perfection of grace. A real not a painted fountain
played on the stage during the whole of the ballet.
The costumes of the ladies were very beautiful mostly
white or very light
Thursday 26th Mr Marsh made a few visits
to-day after a hard morning's work on his second volume
on English which is begged for by English publishers in
advance of the American Edition. The incessant interruptions
to which the duties of his post expose him make
his progress in his book very slow.
Friday Dec 27th
Continual rumors of the breaking up of the
Ministry here are current, but little is actually known.
It seems quite certain that Ricasoli cannot get the man
he wants to take the portfolio of the Interior, and a man
he does not want he will not hat have. Would to
heaven we had a man of Ricasoli's mettle and integrity
at the helm with us!
Sat. Dec 28th
Another day of visits. Two charming Marcheses
Coconito & Castellani, quite fascinated me. Poerio made
me a long visit, but there were so many others with
me at the same time that I could not talk with
him much. Fagnani, who is painting a portrait of the
king for Naples, loves America as we do, and understands
it as no Englishman ever could. - The venerable
Plana was here in the evening, and several other notorieties
but I was too anxious about Mr Marsh, who was unwell,
& in bed, to enjoy any thing. Count Sclopis came in
for a half hour -
Sunday 29th Dec
Mr Marsh was in bed all day, to-day. We
had papers from home only to the sixth of Dec though
there should have been a N.Y. Times of a week later. Since
the prospect of a war between E. & Am. our papers
are appropiated by greedy newsmongers somewhere between
N.Y. & here, so that we get them most irregularly.
Every thing encouraging at home, if Europe would let us alone
if it will not, we may be found equal even to that emergency.
Monday Dec 30th.
Mr Marsh, feeling somewhat better, went to-day with
the other members of the Dip corps to pay his respects
to S.A. the Duchess of Genoa. The ministers were all
in uniform & without their secretaries. Sir James Hudson
plead indisposition - Mr Benedetti, who was thrown from
his horse yesterday, was not able to be present, so the
Prussian Minister acted as doyen & Mr M__ came next
in rank. The Duchess came from an inner apartment
into the room where the Ministers were waiting for his her
in a semicircle Count Brassier de St Simon at their head.
After a general salutation, she addressed herself at once
to the Prussian Minister, without waiting for a formal
speech from him, and after a few minutes conversation -
turned to Mr Marsh enquired for me - spoke of seeing me
at the theatre etc - and then talked earnestly & po deprecatingly
of a war between E. & Am. In the means mean time
the P. minister passed over to the opposite side of the
room where stood the Countesses Castiglione & Gattinara
and entered into conversation with them. Mr Marsh
did the same when the Duchess passed on
to
the Swiss
Minister. This made the audience very easy and much
like any morning visit. The dress of the Duchess
was green moirée with train of the same lined with
white satin, & without trimming, - A diadem of
diamonds & pale rubies on her head - a necklace of
the same stones - quantity profuse - O The Countess Castiglione
wore a pink moirée _ train of the same lined with
white - the Countess Gattinara a white moirée
with a train of red velvet lined with white.
These ladies did not salute the diplomatic corps
[illegible] as they passed back into the inner room,
though the Duchess herself did. I should have
said that the Counts Castiglione & Gattinara first met
the ministers on their entrance, before the Duchess
made her appearance.
Dec. 31st
To-day the foreign Ministers were received
by the king - each separately, though all went to the palace
together. In his conversation with Mr Marsh he spoke of
the possible war between England & America, assented at
once to Mr M's opinion that Canada with her 2000 mile frontier
could not be defended against us, and discussed the probable
military results of st such a war with the sagacity of a
clear-headed soldier. He spoke
of
our Far West with enthusiasm
and said it had always been an ardent wish of his to
hunt the buffalo on our mighty wilds. Mr Marsh
assured him that his majesty would [illegible]
meet there in Am.
with the
the [sic] heartiest of welcomes. "Ah," said he, "I must wait
till they give me a jubilee here."
From the king they all went to Prince Carignano.