From
January 1st 1862
To
March 7th 1862
Turin January 1st 1862
A wearysome and unsatisfactory way
of passing the first day of the New Year - receiving
and sending off cards from early morning until
time to dress for the Opera. The Teatro Reggio was very
brilliant tonight. It was not our evening but
Rustem Bey obligingly asked us to his box. The
Teatro was illuminated a giorno and the toilettes
of the ladies were splendid. The king entered the
royal box about nine attended by his suite and
accompanied by his son, the heir apparent and
by the Duchess of Genoa with her ladies. The
house rose and the vivas for the Re d'Italia
were most hearty, but not so frenzied as
would have been heard in the more Southern and
the more excitable cities of the new kingdom.
The king looked very kingly. One cannot help
when one sees him assenting most fully to the
remark he himself is said to have made on looking
at one of the photographs of himself which have
been so unmercifully multiplied--"Ah! je suis laid!
mais je ne suis pas si laid!" He certainly is not
handsome and it is not often that one sees so
ugly a profile, but he is manly and dignified in
his bearing and the whole character of his face is
highly energetic and sensible. His dress was a
military one, not very showy. The young prince, who
had the misfortune to sit between his father and
the Prince Carigano, both men of extraordinary size
- looked very small, but though his face is
very plain, it is serious and thoughtful, and he
bore himself extremely well. The Ministry gen-
-erally attended the king, most of them in very
rich uniforms. Ricasoli alone was in plain
clothes except the collar and a single star. The
appearance of this man was very striking. He did
not mix much in the quiet talk that was going on
around him, but stood a little aside with an
expression so calm, so self-reliant, or perhaps I should
have better said, so heaven-reliant that it could
hardly fail to impress every one. Every body says that he
cannot sustain himself in his unflinching policy and
that he must yield to a more flexible man. This is
very possible, but that he will never bend himself, both
friend and foe admit. He is certainly a Roman of the
old Romans. The Duchess was blazing with diamonds
and rubies. Her dress was pink moirée with a pro-
-fusion of white lace. The diadem was really gorgeous.
Her ladies were too far to the right for me to see them well.
The Royal party staid through the ballet and then
retired together. Among the spectators of notoriety
was General Türr in full Garibaldian uniform.
His beautiful bride of the Bonaparte house, whose un-
-blushing mother persisted in calling her Wyse, was
at his side. She was in light blue tarleton with a wreath
of blush roses on her hair. She is very pretty certainly
but but [sic] those who know her sister, the Princesse
de Laulmes, say that the latter is greatly su-
-perior in beauty. The Comtesse Larterana [Sartirana] de Brême
was also very conspicuous for her beauty. Madame
Benedetti whore [wore] a magnificent coronet of diamonds
on black velvet, and more becoming still the sweet
lovely smile for which she is remarkable.
Thursday Jan 2nd
Another day wasted in the empty ceremony
of sending cards, and this weary work added to the weariness
from the Opera, and sad news from family friends at
home made the day a heavy one.
Friday Jan 3rd
Turin papers are full of discussions as
to what will be done and will not be done about the
Ministry. Parliament met again to-day after a recess
and found the Ministry still incomplete. Ricasoli
will not give up the Foreign portfolio for fear that a
tool of France may take his place. Nor will he have
a Minister of the Interior who will not work with him.
He will probably be broken down, though it is understood
that he says he will never leave his post till his king
and his country intimate a wish to have him do so.
Saturday Jan 4th
This morning my réunion was quite
brilliant, and very pleasant. The Countess
Gattanara was one of my new visitors. She was
very richly dressed and is very beautiful, with man-
-ners that set off her dress and person. She staid with
me an hour and I found her more cultivated than
I suppose is common among the fashionable Piedmontese.
The Comtesse Mari, a Florentine, is also a very bright
and pleasing person. Madame Peruzzi came with
her husband who is one of the Ministry. He is a quiet,
fine looking man, and showed his wife off to disad-
-vantage, She being more noisy and less lady like than
when she came to me before. She told Madame Benedetti
that she was very glad to see they had given out invitations
for the 9th and 23rd as she thought it was quite time
they began. The Duchess Bevilacqua di Masa came later
with the Countess Pulszky. She is from Venitia, though
of a Piedmontese family, and is a woman of much
though[t] and much brain to think with. She says
Italy is now in a crise and evidently feels a good
deal of uneasiness. A word from England to Austria she
thinks would set Venitia free and that then Italy would
soon be in a condition less dependant on France. The
Princesse St Lorenzo of Naples is a delicate pretty woman
of perhaps thirty, very refined in manner. The Hochschilds
were with us in the evening besides our usual set.
Dr and Madame Monnet, among our new guests pleased
me particularly. Dr Monnet is a Vaudois, physician
to the French Legation, a quiet gentlemanly man, in
very moderate circumstances, and his wife, an
English woman of culture, has the courage to add to
their income, by giving instruction in English literature,
half lessons - half lectures. She would not come to us,
till she had assured herself through Mrs Stanley, that
this fact would be
to us
no objection to her socially. I
liked her extremely.
Sunday Jan. 5th
For myself a very quiet day, but Mr
Marsh was obliged to go out, and Carrie too had to spend
an hour at the Benedetti's. These Saturday receptions
relieve me from Sunday visits at least, though some
Sunday visiting must be done, it being the only
day on which many of the most prominent per-
-sons in society receive. I cannot understand how
rational people live without one day in the week
wherein to feed their own interior life.
Monday 6th
At three today the Countess Cigala came
to see me, by appointment, having previously sent me
word that she wished to make my acquaintance, but
having just lost her brother and mother she could not
come to me on Saturday, the forty days not having yet
expired during which [illegible] it would not be considered
proper for her to be seen at a réunion. She is an English wo-
-man emphatically of the world, but seems kindly and
sensible. Our home news is pacific so far as England
is concerned, but nobody seems to fear war with En-
-gland if she takes a tone to force us into it.
Tuesday Jan 7th
Mr Marsh and Carrie were both out this
evening, Carrie at a little dance, Mr Marsh at
Baron Ricasoli's. The réunion there was very pleasant.
Ricasoli placid as a summer sea, notwithstanding all
the muttering thunder about him. Among other gen-
-tlemen, Mr Marsh met a distinguished Spaniard
España; 'Liberale quoiqu' Espagnol' as he himself said.
Baron Tecco was also there, almost a stranger at home,
after so many years of diplomatic life.
Wednesday 8th
Today another vote has been taken in a
sort of Parliamentary caucus, which proves that the ma-
-jority are determined to sustain the Ministry. So
Ricasoli has triumphed once more. With his straitforward,
unyielding policy, courting no favors, regardless of
reproaches, he proves a hard subject to uproot. If he
can but have time he will do much towards stren
strengthening the new government.
Thursday 9th
This morning we have telegraphic news
of the surrender of Mason and Slidell. Perhaps Europe
will learn some day that if the United States
are governed by a mob, it is a lawloving, justice-
-loving mob, that is ready to abide by its own previous-
-ly declared principles, even when such adherence may
be contrary to its apparent interests.
We went this morning to a semi-ball at the French
Ministers. The company was not large and consisted
of much the same persons as we are in the habit
of seeing at our own apartments. The ladies were
well dressed and many very pretty, the Countess Gattinara
and the Countess Sartirana de Breme being among the most
showy. Madame Benedetti as usual was most graceful and
gracious - in one sense at least she is certainly a crown to
her husband. Lord Hubert de Burg was the only representative
of the English Legation - an odd-looking person enough, but
I rather liked him. I had considerable conversation
with the Prussian Minister if conversation that may be
called which consists of the whole category of society's
most common common-places. He is every
evidently
a man of
very good sense, fully impressed with the conviction that
women are simpletons and rather bores at that. If
I had not had an old dame of the haute-societé
by my side whom it was necessary to consider, and
who prevented our colloquy from being a duet, I should
have tried to measure the man a little more accurately.
As it was I could only assent or dissent, as the case might
be,
to or
from the opinions of this grave diplomatist as to whether
a lady's dress was best seen at the opera or a Ball. The
discussion was unimpassioned on both sides. With de Bunsen
I had a few rational words, but his cleared-headed father
with his acute moral sense, would, I fancy, have been a
little shocked to hear his son attempt to justify rulers
in doing what in private individuals would be justly
regarded as dishonorable, even false. What can we expect
from governments when the best of their agents hold such
opinions! With Gen. Menabrea I exchanged the usual
formalities of presentation and with a good many other
conspicuous men. Poerio was in his best vein, cheerful
but serious. Ricasoli I missed altogether as he was
surrounded constantly, but Mr Marsh had a few moments
with him. He spoke of his recent triumph with calm
satisfaction - said he should never leave his post
till fairly voted down, his policy he would not
change for any human considerations, being satisfied
that his course was the best he was capable of devising.
When his king and his country decided against him he
should retire cheerfully to a life better suited to his
taste.
Friday Jan 10th
Prince Oscar of Sweeden, grandson of
Bernadotte, honored the Teatro d'Angennes with his
presence this evening. We had no idea that he was to
he there, but went in ourselves to hear the famous
Scriveneck [Scriwaneck]. Presently several gentlemen entered the stage-box
just opposite our own, one of whom immediately fixed
our attention. He did not strike us as handsome, but
no one could fail to perceive that he was a person of distinction.
His Titianesque head has all the characteristics of the southern
races.
It was not till we noticed who attended him however that
the thought of the newly-arrived prince flashed upon us. General
Della Rocca, Count Nigra, Marquis de Breme and a large
number of the principal men of the Court entered and left
the box from time to time. The Duchess and her ladies were
also present but on our side so that we could not see
them. Mme. Scriveneck was admirable as the little
Duke de Richelieu, and the prince clapped her enthu-
siastically.
Saturaday, Jan 11th
My first visitors this morning were the
Marquise Doria & the Countess Avogadro. After a few minutes
of formal enquiry &c the storm broke forth. For some days
past Mme Benedetti has been the subject of much sharp
comment on the part of the ladies of the society, for her delay
in making the usual advances required. At her soirée one
of the ladies whose acquaintance she had made, whether regularly
or irregularly does not appear, offered to present her on occasion
of the court ball to some of the principal ladies of the Haute
Societé if she desired it. Madame Benedetti replied that she
was much obliged, but she must consult Mr Benedetti, and
accordingly went to him at once. Mr Benedetti returned to
to [sic] the lady with Madame, and said, that 'Madame Benedetti
was very reconnaissante etc etc but, though she would
be happy to know the ladies of Turn, she could not take
the first step.' This made the cup run over. Indignation
meetings have been held from house to house ever since and it
seems to be resolved that Madame Benedetti shall be abandoned
by every dame whose relations at court do not force her
to continue to frequent her as the wife of the French Minister.
A most philosophical remark of
by
Mr Marsh this
morning must not be unrecorded. Apropos of our good
Alexander's obstinately refusing to light up in the evening
till guests actually began to arrive, he says, "No man
is ever 'master in his own house' unless he is a brute"
The Marchesa Doria is furious. She declares that 'to be ruled
by France politically is humiliating enough, but socially we never
will submit to it - never!' I have never before seen such an
exhibition of feeling on any social question and I could tell
France that many a vassal has been lost to its lord on smaller
provocation. It was throwing away words to insist that I knew
Madame B. that she was a most amiable person, entirely
without pretentio pretension. 'Then it is France through her
Minister that pretends', was the indignant reply, and we
will not, cannot bear it.' Mr Hochschild too, it seems, has
given great
offence
by saying what was certainly not in very good taste for
a man in his position just arrived in the country, 'that there
was no danger but that the Turinese ladies would all flock round
Mad. Benedetti as soon as she opened her house for dancing.'
'Have we no houses to dance in ourselves!' says the fiery
ignited
ignited
Doria. This affair is likely to place me in a very unpleant [unpleasant]
position. The desire to avenge themselves on the Benedetti's
has evidently made them - the dames de societé - resolve to lift
me on the shield, and I am likel destined to receive marks of
regard and distinction which would never have been thought of
but for this unlucky business. If Mme. B__ could really know how
very sincerely I wish the place of honor hers - how much I regret
that she was not here before me, she would at least acquit
me of all participation in any conspiracy against her.
All my guests of the morning were in a state of excitement
on this great subject. The de Limas, who came in the evening,
said nothing about it. Carutti came for
an
hour - stiff in manner, but
a man with whom it is a pleasure to talk. Capt Crowther,
an old half-pay English officer of more than fourscore, erect and
vigorous and full of old-world memories was also here. The Countess
Salino, who is one of the most intelligent persons I have met among the P.
aristocracy, came with Mrs Stanley & Mrs Codrington who also brought
a nice Italian officer & an English youth of eighteen perhaps -
what boy was ever nice at that age! Poerio was in his usual calm
cheerful mood, his conversation being strongly marked by poetic fancies
and allusions. Most of the Prussian Legation were here.
Sunday 12th Jan
Mr Solvyns, the new minister from Belgium
spent an hour with us after church this morning -
a man of sense and talent and thoroughly ac-
quainted with America & her institutions. If his wife
is like him they will indeed be an acquisition.
Though he has been here but three or four days the
the social revolt against France was well known to
him.
Monday Jan 13th
The grand court ball passed off very bril-
liantly tonight. Everybody was there in their gayest and best.
Perhaps no court in Europe now offers so much of ancient
etiquette, so much of real stately aristocracy as that of
Turin. Many persons who were present declare that most
European courts have altogether a parvenu air when
compared with this. The king himself certainly is no
stickler for etiquette, but the Duchess magnifies her
office and she is well sustained by the queenly dames
of Piedmont. Prince Oscar looked well and danced a great
deal. The Comtess St Germano made a truly Oriental display
of diamonds, eclipsing even the Duchess. Mr Marsh had
considerable conversation with Ricasoli on the settlement
of the Trent difficulty. He expressed the liveliest satisfac-
-tion that the quiet dignity with which our governemnt
had borne itself and the strongest hope that the great
civil question would now be put upon its true issue,
in which case he predicted the most certain success.
He spoke of his own course which has lately resulted in
so complete a triumph over the opposition. "I consult
my own conscience and then relying upon the aid of
Providence I leave consequences to Him who overrules
all things." The king also talked very familiarly
with Mr Marsh for a quarter of an hour, asking very
intelligent questions about America, and expressing an
earnest wish to obtain some of the animals peculiar to it,
as he could never hope to see them in their own wilds. Mr
Marsh assured him that it could easily be done, by putting
an a [sic] efficient agent in communcation with the Smith-
-sonian Institute at Washington and promised that
special interest would be taken in the matter.
Tues. Jan 14
Our delightful Abbé found an hour for us at last
this evening. He has so many acquaintances and is in such
demand during the winter that we seldom get him now
for more than a moment. He had been well posted up as
to the Benedetti difficulties and is trying to act as peace-maker.
He gave us a very ludicrous account of the Countess Masin's
agitation on the occasion of the late examination of her
brother, a candidate for the bar. Her own history of it
should be heard in Piedmontese to give it its true
value. She says she wandered about the building in which
the examination was held, in a state of great trepida-
-tion for a long time, that when finally a gentleman came
out and assured her that the young man has passed
the ordeal brilliantly, she was so [illegible] agitated
that her knees trembled violently and she was
obliged to rush into the next pastry shop where she
devoured two pasticettes before she could get strength
enough to go home. The Abbé gave the story in genuine
Piedmontese, which I am sorry I cannot write down.
Speaking of
a
cold, he says; "You know they call it here
raffreddore and they prescribe hot drinks; in Genoa they
call it riscaldore and they prescribe cold drinks."
The lively savant never fails to give the doctors a
slap. He told us of a building here known as the
Quattro Tasse or Tazze. After long puzzling over the ori-
-gine of the name, and much wondering why it was
exactly quattro Tazze - why not tre why not cinque -
he found that the house had once been inhabited for a time
by the great Torquato Tasso, and Piedmontese ingenuity is
responsible for the rest.
Wednesday 15th.
Another gala might at the Teatro Regio.
The King came in about 9 accompanied by Prince Oscar
of Sweden, Prince Umberto, Prince Carignano and the
Duchess, and attended by a numerous suite. All in
very rich uniform with two exceptions, Ricasoli and
Ratazzi, the former of whom wore a single star, the
latter, nothing so far as I could see. Several gentlemen
of the Annunciata were almost literally covered with
stars and ribbons. The shouts on the entrance of the
royal party were deafening. The King walked quite
to the front of the box with Prince Oscar at his side,
both bowing graciously in answer to the cheering.
Then the King sat down, Prince Oscar remaining a moment
longer on his feet to make another salutation. The
huzzas ceased for a moment then were frantically
renewed in the hope of bringing
up
the King once more.
But the lion-like monarch sat perfectly calm while
Prince Oscar, who seemed to feel it half a duty to rise,
looked now at the King as if anxious for a signal and
now at the audience as if in doubt whether to accept
the cheering as intended for him or not. His respect
for the king would not let him rise but he was
evidently embarrassed at not being in a position
to acknowledge the civility more courteously the
compliments which were, at least in part, intended
for him. During both the Opera and the ballet, the King
talked freely with the gentlemen about him especially
with Ricasoli and Ratazzi. Prince Oscar was very elegant
and very affable. The Duchess was well dressed as usual,
- her ladies I could not see. Prince Umberto also behaved
with much dignity, and talked with the gentlemen
in waiting with much manliness of manner.
The ladies in the boxes were dressed very tastefully, and
I fancy it would be difficult to find a more aristocratic
display in any part of Europe. The music was delightful -
Rossini's Othello - but few listened to it, as seeing,
not hearing was the business of the evening. The great
subject of gossip in the boxes was the ball of the preceeding
night. It seems Madame Benedetti was not asked to dance
in the contredanse d'honneur, and that this is resented
by the French Embassy. The Master of ceremonies denies
his responsibility in the matter and says it was left
for younger men to arrange. Some say the mistake
was from ignorance, some from thoughtlessness,
and others believe it to be a regular court intrigue,
got up by the dames de société to avenge themselves on
Madame Benedetti. I am inclined to think the latter
is the fact. Every body said, Madame Benedetti was
so angry that she would not appear at the theatre.
She came however, late it is true, but smiling and
cheerful, without the least sign of having suffered
any wrong. The Doria sat like a queen at the head
of her box with her satellites about her, but she
was fairly eclipsed by her sister, the quiet, gentle
Del Borgo who sat opposite her. The Countess St Germano
looked beautifully though time and sorrow have both left
their lines. I have been told frequently that her
second marriage - with the brother of her first
husband was sorely against her own feelings, and was
and was brought about at last only by the personal
influence of the pope. There was an immense estate
at stake and this marriage would annihilate all
conflicting claims. Tonight a new piece of romance was
added. It is stated that a strong attachment existed
between the Countess and Cavour at the time this
marriage of convenience was proposed, and that they had
pledged themselves to each other. The Countess resisted
the addresses of her brother-in-law for a long time until, it
is said, that Cavour himself became satisfied that her
family would never yield up the point without first
destroying her happiness, and that he himself consented
to give her up. A close friendship, happily not poisoned
by even a breath of scandal, subsisted between him and
his lost Countess until his untimely death.
Thursday 16th Jan.
By our drive to-day we missed some
very desirable visitors - among them Gen. Menabrea -
but we had a most glorious view of the mountains.
They were marvellously clear, and Monte Rosa
was blindingly gorgeous with sunlight & snow from
from [sic] base to crest. We could not help longing for
home friends to enjoy the sight with us.
This evening we went into our own Angennes Theatre
to hear Mme Scriveneck. She was admirable.
Friday 17th The hurry
The hurry of these short days, with
almost incessant interruptions by visitors, is certainly
very wearying. The number of notes that must be written
for one reason or other, takes half the time Carrie & I are
able to get together - and all this work leaves nothing
to show for it - little I am afraid in any way to compensate
for it. As we were obliged to sit up rather late
for half-promised visits & Mr Marsh's eyes were too tired
for reading, we concluded to see Scriveneck again, and
we
were
well repaid. She was wonderful. Most of the pieces
in which she appears are wr composed by herself and
the versatility of talent she shows in acting with
such perfection parts so dissimilar is really something
astonishing. Soon after entering our box we noticed a
lady in the private royal box just opposite us with her
veil down and holding a black fan so as almost entirely
to concel her face. A moment after I caught a
glimpse of a gentleman behind her who kept himself
entirely in the shade. As the lady turned her head a
little from time to time I managed to get a half
look at this mysterious figure and I soon became
satisfied it was the king. He was however much dis-
guised, and I dared not raise my glass to be more
sure. The lower part of his face was much
half
covered
but I think there was no mistaking the forehead &
eyes, though we could see but indistinctly. Our con-
clusion was, that it was the king & the Countess Moncaliere.
Millefiore
Saturday Jan. 18th
My visitors to-day represented every
grade in the social hierarchy except majesty itself.
Prince, duchess, marquess marchioness, countess, lord, baron -
not a link failed. Diplomacy too was well represented, -
Mr Benedetti himself passed the evening with us, as well as
some other chefs. Every body is full of the female rebellion
against France - every body says every body is sorry but it must
be confessed that every body seems to think find some consolation
in the fact that it furnishes a change of topics of conversation,
the remarkable winter, Prince Oscar, the opera & the theatre
beginning to get a little threadbare. My interest in the
Countess Castiglione increases with every new interview, but
as she can only come to me by day I have little [illegible]
chance to see her except with at least half a dozen
others. The Marquise d'Arvillars & her nice daughter
were among my most agreeable visitors - but the [illegible]
sweet Countess Salino has impressed me with a feeling of
positive affection even only on a second interview.
Her cousin, the Countess Avogadro, though far more beau-
tiful, and very gentle & graceful besides, is less attractive
to me. We expected Pulszky to
bring
Mahlschott to us this evening
but he failed for some reason. The diplomatic gentlemen
believe England is now looking for another occasion
to quarrel with the U.S. If this is so, and she succeeds, the sun
of her greatness has set forever - let her be sure of that.
Sunday Jan 19th
I had hoped for a quiet day but Mr Marsh
was again obliged to go out after church to pay visits
where they receive only on Sundays. Carrie had to go to
Miss Benedetti who sees her little friends only on Sunday,
and I had to receive the Baron and Baroness Todros at
home. Thank God, I do not think the Christian Sunday
was ever intended to be kept like the Jewish Sabbath, but
I long for one day in the week which I can devote to life's
most serious interests, and the want of a Sunday is the greatest
want I feel here. Todros is a Jew of immense wealth - first
merchant, then banker - who
and
was a great favorite with
Cavour who gave him his title. His wife is an English Jewess,
very pretty and I should think very intelligent. They brought
letters from Mr Dayton.
Monday 20th
A new social-discord has risen, it seems. Those who
know every thing say that the Countess Menabrea and
Madame Peruzzi had a difficulty at the court ball as to
their relative rank, and that the ladies went so far as to
bestow hard names upon each other, and that non intercourse
will hereafter be rigidly kept up between them. This must
be very unpleasant for the two ministers. The new com-
-plication however does not seem to act as a back fire on the
Benedetti trouble which thickens rather than clears up,
and who can say how vast the consequences of such trivial
misunderstandings may be to Italy and to the world. This
thought alone makes them worth recording. I had a visit
to-day from a very pretty woman whose mother was an
English woman and who is herself married to an Italian. She
spoke of knowing an American lady at Nice who had separated
herself from her husband, and enquired if she was one of my
The story of the difficulty between the Menabrea
and the Peruzzi turns out happily to be a
mistake. Both the ladies it seems were incensed
at the poor Marchese de Breme for not
placing them properly, but neither found any
fault with the other.
The Todros who received the title from Cavour is probably
the father of the one mentioned on the preceding page
acquaintances. I said no, and added that I had no great fancy
for knowing women who could not get on with their husbands
- that though I had no doubt it was impossible to live in
peace with some men in anything like peace, yet the presump-
-tion was against both parties till the contrary was proved. This
led to a long talk about unhappy matches, I in my innocence
supposing that with my young interlocutor the honey-moon
could hardly be over. After she left I was told to my dismay that
her husband, jealous as a tiger, had been walking up and
down the street keeping his eye on the entrance to our court
during her whole visit and joining her as soon as she came out.
Gossip says that he locks up her bonnets and all her visiting
dresses whenever he is obliged to leave his own house, and all
this, so far as I can learn, without any fault on the part of the
wife except that she is pretty and that the King has been heard
to say so. I sometimes fancy there is wisdom in that seemingly
most absurd of all rules in fashionable life never to talk
of anything but the theatre, the opera, the last ball, its dresses
&c. &c.
Tuesday 21} I had a long visit from Madame de Lima
with her bright little daughter of eleven. As a proof that all
Italian girls are not ignorant of the domestic arts she called
my attention to her linen collar and sleeves the handiwork
of Mademoiselle Arvillars, perhaps the demoiselle highest in position
in Turin. The stitching was most beautiful. Madame de Lima's
little daughter said that when her lessons were over she made
night caps &c in the evening. Do many American children in
the position of this one learn to do plain sewing? I am afraid not.
Mr Artoni gave us an interesting account of the burattini
who he says are very common in Italy. A man with
dramatic gifts - and few Italians are without them -
commits a favorite play to memory, then before a village
audience he performs the piece personating each char-
-acter himself, changing voice and manner to suit the
person he represents. A play is often performed in this way till
the audience know it as well as the actor and Mr
Artoni says it is an important means of culture for the
classes who have little other opportunity for getting any thing like
intellectual nahrung. The ministerial ball came off
this evening. I was not well enough to venture though a
comfortable place had been promised me. Mr Marsh staid for
an hour or two but found the heat from the lights intolerable
and came home soon after eleven. He made visits with Mrs
Stanley earlier in the day. The Benedettis did not go to this ball.
Every body seems to think that, though the Turinese dames are now
acharnées against them, the storm will blow over with
-out any serious consequences to any body.
Wednesday Jan. 22.
The Marchesa Cusani came to-day with the
Countess Marini. She said she could not come to
me on saturdays as, owing to the state of her husband's
health, she did not like to be seen at réunions. She
spoke of the marquis Marchese very kindly - said he had
been always very considerate of her comfort and happiness,
but that the match had was not a gre discreet one for
her - she being but fifteen and he forty five when they
whe were married. "Now" said she, "he is an infirm old
man, almost helpless from paralysis - I am thirty two years old
and my daughters are just beginning to need a father
to guide and direct them - instead of which they must
be his nurses." I suggested that it might after all prove
the most valuable possible training for them. "Yes"
replied my gooo visitor, "that [illegible] hope consoles me much
for their loss of the pleasures that seem more befitting their
age." The conversation of this lady on her domestic position
was exactly that of any kind-hearted friend of both
parties might have been expected to be, but for a wife it
seemed to me most singular. She is a person highly esteemed
in society, and I have no doubt a very worthy woman -
this marriage de convenance having turned out better than
usual. - In the evening Mr M. & Carrie went to the Opera,
I to bed.
Thursday Jan 23d.
Mr Hunter, brother of Mr Hunter of the
State Department, was here to-day on his way to Naples.
He did not seem as hopeful about our country as we
could have wished, and was evidently much irrited [irritated] by
the course of some of the more important European Powers
towards us, especially that of England. He complained
also bitterly of improper appointments - and named newly
arrived consuls, who spoke freely in defence of the South.
Strange times these! This evening we went to the French
Ministers. The company was quite large enough for comfort,
the ladies beautifully dressed and Mme Benedetti lovely &
amiable as ever. The great body of the Turinese aristocracy however
were certainly not there. Mr Dillon, our amiable secretary,
accosted me, almost as soon as I entered the drawing [illegible]
room,
very civilly
and said he had a question to put me, which, as a party concerned,
he had no doubt I could answer. He then added, "A friend said
to me to-day, "You have no right to censure as you do the acts
of your own Government," and he had the frankness to say besides, "the
Government at whose expense you live." "Now," continued Mr Dillon,
"I understand that as Secretary of Legation here, I have no right to
censure what the American Legation does here, but I hold myself
free to say what I please about our Government in other matters.
Am I right." If at "What," I said, "do you understand to be the
object of our Government in sending representatives abroad?
Is it not to strengthen that Government and make it respectable
in the eyes of other nations? I must tell you frankly, Mr
Dillion, if my husband were to put me such a case of
conscience, I should say at once, if you cannot speak in
defence of your own country, if you cannot at least abstain
from condemnation, you are bound by every principle of
common honor to resign and go home - or go to a country
you can speak well of." My questioner looked a little
confounded, and then said, laughingly, "I shall appeal." Very
well, I confess myself fallible - but let me
hear
from you the
result of your appeal". He went to Mr Marsh and got
much the same answer. We had heard before of his
abuse of the American Government - in Caffés and other
public places, and Mr Fagnani had expressed to Mr
Artoni his indignation at Mr D.s course. I have no
doubt it was he who spoke his mind to him to so freely
and Dillon came to us by way of anticipation.
This evening the Marchesa Montezemoli, a Russian by birth
and education who married a highly respectable Italian,
the last Piedmontese governor of Nice, asked to be presented to me.
I have tried modestly to escape this honor, but to-night there was no
dodging. She certainly appeared much better than the account I
had heard of her led me to expect. Her dress was rich and
not in bad taste, and she did not give me the history of her
marriage and the dreadful disappointment she sustained in finding
that the magnificent old castle, for which she exchanged [illegible]
her liberty, was almost entirely bare of furniture and that the
Marchese himself was scarcely the possessor of a change of linen.
These details she is said to give to most of her new acquaintances.
Fortunately if all were true, her own princely fortune would
not be impaired by furnishing both the castle and the wardrobe
of the Marchese, and most people think he would have
the worst of the bargain at that. My first impressions however
would lead me to think there must be gross exaggeration as to
her peculiarities. I must confess I am sometimes a little
puzzled to reconcile my charity and my logic. It is very
hard for me to believe that the persons I meet here in
society are guilty of the sins laid to their charges. by
But disbelieving this, I am driven to acknowledge that,
if there are no evil-doers, there is a prodigious number
of liars.
Friday Jan. 24th
Mr Marsh had some conversation with Ricasoli
with reference to the Sumter, which has recently been coaling
at Cadiz, and then entering the Mediterranean burned and sunk
several vessels. The baron expressed his suppri surprise that
she should have been permitted to refit and take in supplies
in a Spanish port, and if he can control it she will
find small comfort on the Italian coast. We heard Mme
Scriveneck this evening, but she was less brilliant than usual.
Saturday Jan 25
Old & new acquaintances came in as usual
this morning - among the new was the Greek Minister
Gen. Callerghi [Kallergis]
accreditted
to Turin & Paris, with his secretary, Mr Roque, both very Greek.
Three pretty countesses, too, whom I have not seen before,
and and [sic] the Count & Countess Farcito both seemingly very nice
people. The Doria was full of the Benedetti difficulty,
but more calm than last saturday. The Turin papers have at
last taken up the matter, speaking however in the mysterious
language of the ancient oracles, so that to understand implies
much much prevision. The Marchesa intreats that
I will have dancing at my receptions, and assures me
she can obviate all objections. In the evening the
number was about as last saturday eve - and the ices
fell short. Gen. Menebrea was here for the first time
in the evening, the veteran Visconti & the Baroness for the
third. The young people set up the most pathetic petitions
to be allowed to dance at the next réunion and I suppose we
must consent to have the trouble of it, if they are willing
to get on with the small space they can have.
I could not keep my thoughts all the evening from a
distressing circumstance told me just as the servants were
lighting up the drawing room. The mistress of the family
in the piano above us, who was confined 8 days ago and was
supposed to be doing well the last time I inquired for
her, had been taken suddenly with fatal symptoms, had
received the last consolations of her church and was
fast passing away, leaving a boy of 4 or 5 years beside the infant.
It seemed dreadful to me to contrast the gaity of my room with the
mourning & distress about above me, and though we had never
met this family, and could hear nothing from their appet appartment
nor they from ours, still it seemed to me heartless to hear of dancing
mirth at such a moment. I would certainly have refused
to receive if I had known the sad circumstances earlier.
But what was my quiet company, all of whom left at eleven,
to the bal-masqué that was going on all night in the theatre
under the same roof! I could not sleep - for though
no sound reached us from the mourning & the dying,
faint tones of music & laughter came from the revellers, and
I was afraid they might disturb the suffering family.
Sunday Jan 26th
The young wife and mother left her husband and
family at midnight - the masqueraders staid till six this
morning. - - We had no visitors to-day. The weather
continues very mild, the thermometer not varying 10 deg.
in as many days. The very little snow which has fallen
on two occasions wh disappeared almost as soon as
it came and in a very odd way. Hundreds of persons
were at once employed in sweeping and shovelling
it up into heaps - then came others with carts, loaded
them with the snow, and then driving to certain
large holes which were opened in the middle of
some of the principal streets, they there emptied the
contents into drains which conduct to the river. In
this way the snow is all disposed of in a few hours
the mouths of the drains are closed, and every appearance
of winter has vanished. This season has not no doubt been
an uncommonly mild one. October with us often brings
worse weather than we have yet seen here.
Monday 27th
The Roman question seems to have taken a step
in advance. The late demonstration in the old capital has called
out anew the sympathy of the rest of Italy, and the last note of
the French emperor looks like coming to some decision. Never
man more puzzled his age than this same emperor. If the English
press had not stamped itself forever as the most mendacious
that ever disgraced a Christian country we could
believe no good of him. As it is, his acts are certainly
of a far higher and les more generous character outwardly,
than those of the government across the channel - his motives
must be left to another tribunal.
Tuesday 28th Jan.
England, it appears, has model modestly
asked our government to allow the troops with which
she is filling Canada by way of menace to us, to pass through
the state of Maine! This reminded us at once of the
letter sent by the Arab to the French Commandant of
a fortress in Algeria. After the most violent espressions
of denunciation and defiance accompanied with a
declaration that he would attack him at the head
of his tribe as soon as they should be well provided
with arms & ammunition - he closes his amiable missive
with a request for a ch cachmere shawl and a supply
of powder and ball!
The ready courtesy with which this remarkable request has been
granted by Mr Seward ought to prove to that haughty selfish
power that if her late disgraceful conduct towards us has
cured us of our love for her it has failed to inspire us with
fear. Let her take her troops where she likes - and we
dare even facilitate her folly. In case of war Canada
would be ours in spite of all the troops that England could
command. From the south she might do us much mischief,
but she could not defend a narrow strip of land 2000
miles in length.
Wednesday Jan 29th
Drove out to-day to get a look at the mountains, so
grand in this beautiful sunlight & snow. The whole chain
is covered almost to the base, but on the plain there is still
little snow. The ladies are already beginning to drive
out in open carriages as if spring were here.
Mrs Stanley gives me a curious history of the Marchesa
Pallavicino which I should be glad to have certified
as Mrs S. had hardly dared vouch for it herself. It is however
believed here that this lady is the one spoken of with so much
admiration in the famous Picciola, - that the Marchese
married her almost as soon as he was released from prison.
It is certain at least that she is the Florence Nightingale of
Italy. Mr Marsh was much pleased on his first interview with her
and I hope to learn more of her when we have closer personal
relations with her.
Thursday Jan 30th
The notable Marquise de Montezemoli
paid me a visit this morning. I found her a fine looking
woman even by day-light and her conversation, which was
in very good English, was agreeable and more than
usually intelligent. She ventured fearlessly
beyond the the weather and the theatre and the
balls prospective & retrospective, and was really
quite refreshing. I am curious how she will wear.
This evening we went to the Teatro Regio for
Nambuco [Nabucco] & a new ballet. This first was tolerable
the latter admirable. General Menabrea spent
a hour in our box - a man who could not fail
to interest even the stranger who should not know
him as the heroic engineer at the siege of Gaeta.
In the course of our pleasant talk he said he said
"I want grace not force in a woman." I smiled and
thought - what I did not say - "alas, poor woman! how large
a portion of her mortal life demands force or she sinks
to a worthless thing, a wretched trifler or a wretched slave."
This is the second time I have heard a truly great man
utters utter the same unconsciously selfish sentiment. They
would have woman cultivate exclusively those graces
which charm them during the brief hours in which she can
represent as the French say - and then when the days of
darkness come - and God only knows how many there are
for her - what has she to fall back upon! Husband & children?
perhaps she has neither - or if she has, when the graces
which were all she possessed are gone, she is even to them
only an object of pity, or at best of affectionate pity.
Jan 31st
Bright sun to-day - Thermometer F-t 50 in the open air at 4 P.M.
The only daughter of the grand old Plana spent two
long hours with me to-day. She gave me something of her
own sad history which chimed in strongly wht with the thoughts
suggested by the remark of Gen. Menabrea. "I was brought up
after the old Turinese manner, never allowed to have, or at
least to express a wish of my own. My parents are not to
be blamed - no other way was thought of as possible. I looked
to marriage as something likely to give me more freedom, at
least so much as to allow me to go out without some one
to look after me. I was married very young to a man my
parents thought likely to make me a kind and respectable
husband - he had wealth and a title and seemed unobjection-
able.
I did not know him - had I done so I might possibly
have
been
able to make up my mind to accept even his worst
qualities. As it was the disappointment - the shock was
more than a poor weak ignorant young thing as I was could
indure. I staid with my husband twenty three days and then
took refuge with my father and mother. I told them my
story - my father took me with my mother to Rome, we
staid six months trying to get my case fairly before the
proper ecclesiastical tribunal." Here I cannot attempt to follow
the language of this unhappy woman. Would to heaven some
of our Protestant sympathisers with this precious Pio Nono
and his minions could hear this tale (from the mounth
mouth
of a Roman Catholic too) as I heard it. The espressions of
loathing and abhorrence
with
which she spoke of the heartlessness,
the venality, the ad ambition, the jealousy, the vileness of the
dignitaries of the Romish Church are too strong to repeat.
Making every allowance for her own great excitement the
facts she stated as coming under her father's personal observation
are enough to stagger the stoutest defender of the Papacy. This
was in the first popular year of the present incumbent. Disgusted
and hopeless the parents returned with their only child, their suit
denied, not because unreasonable but because Monsignore tel
would not favor it because Monsignore autre did so. "Une
existence crisée - qu'est que c'est à eux! Un vieux pire
au desespoir - cela ne les touche pas! Ce sont des coeurs
de pierre, et encore pire - mon Dieu! encore pire!"
This unfortunate woman might write a most curious history
of this her life if she would, and I begged her at least to
record her experiences in the great Christian capital if not
for the eyes of this generation for the benefit of later truth seekers.
Poor creature - no grace except God's grace can help her now.
A little strength, a little intellectual force, a mind
so developed as to be able to fall back upon its own wealth
would be the greatest conceivable blessings to her - but no -
men say "All we want in woman is the gentle graces."
Whether these are all she wants is a question most
men forget to ask. One would think a father's heart
would put it sometimes.
February 1st Saturday
Mr Marsh went to a chasse royale at
Racconigi this morning and returned at five in
the evening, having bagged three or four pheasants as
a proof of his prowess on this days slaughter of the
Menu
Dejeuner à Raconis
1er Février 1862.
Potage de croûtes gratinees aux Choux
Filet de Bauf à la Rossini
Poulardes aux Racines
Perdreaux aux Olives
Bigaré de Veau et Foie gras à la gelee
Laitues à la Condé
Lambon et Mortadella
Rôti de Pintades piquées - Salade
Patisserie assortie
Dessert
Glace-Crême à la Vanille
Lilo Junck Turin
innocents. The weather was perfectly spring-like
and brought me in consequence a host of visitors
- between thirty and forty. The thing that I greatly
dreaded came upon me - Madame Benedetti and
the lofty and indignant Marchesa Doria met in
my room. After the declaration of Mr Benedetti
that Madame Benedetti would be happy to know
such ladies as desired to be presented to her and no
others, and the declaration of the Doria, that she would
not know Madame Benedetti unless she (Mad.
B) expressed a wish to be presented to her, there was
nothing left for me but to let matters take their
course. Unluckily several ladies whom I had not
before seen came in one moment before Madame B__.
came. I had just seated them near me but had not
exchanged a single word with them except "Good morning"
Madame B__. had to take a seat a little farther from
me but I gave her my first attention, talking with
her only for two or three minutes. The other half
dozen ladies present sat in perfect silence. The Mar-
-chesa Doria, though she had an acquaintance at her
side seemed changed to marble. I then turned from
Madame B__. and addressed a few words to the Marchesa
Pallavicino who was at my side and whom I had not
seen before. While we spoke together all the other ladies
preserved the same stately silence. I was annoyed
beyond measure and was just turning to speak again
to Madame B__. when she rose evidently discomposed
and wished me 'good morning' saying she would see
me again some other time. After she went out
the Doria commented upon the short visit etc.
to which I made no reply and appeared not to hear,
renewing my conversation with the Pallavicino, who,
however, had the courage to say that she thought the
Turinese ladies did not show proper courtesy to Madame
B__. I said that the difficulty was greatly to be regretted -
that I could not presume to decide on points of etiquette
between the French Legation and the society of Turin, but
of one thing I was sure, that Madame B__. was a lovely woman
and entirely without pretention. Then I changed the con-
-versation as quickly as possible. In my heart however
I was very indignant at the Doria, who had already made
me a long visit, and who should have left at once both
for Madame B__'s sake and mine. A truly kind person -
not to say a true lady would have done this, but I am
afraid the offended Marchese staid expressly to enjoy
Madame B__'s unpleasant position. If the proposal
for dancing here turns out to be a sort of conspiracy
against Madame B__. - which I shall take care to find
out - the plotters will most certainly be discomfitted.
This incident spoiled all the enjoyment I might
otherwise have derived from so many interesting visitors
Speaking of the chasse at Racconigi I should have
said that general Angrogna assured Mr Marsh that
he had special orders from the King to see that he
was well amused. If this was not a courtier's inven
-tion, as is very probable, the king was no doubt
moved to this expression of good-will, by the interest
he took in Mr Marsh's account of the buffaloes and
the other large game of our American wilds.
By the way the re galantuomo has a little spice
of mischief in him. It seems he has just given the
Greek minister Kallergi [Kallergis] his audience - a private
one as is usual here on such occasions. The General
however had supposed a speech would be expected, and
not being strong with the pen, he had requested his
secretary, Roque to compose the harangue. Poor
Roque who is widely known in European diplomacy as
rather its weakest member, did his best, and the doughty
General no whit abashed at finding His Majesty quite
alone, proceeded at once to deliver his oration which
contained striking passages about Greece, the mother of
the Arts, the cradle of civilization &c &c. to which
the Piedmontese Nimrod listened very gravely, I have
no doubt, but which he could not help enjoying after-
-wards with his friends as a capital piece of fun
After the eloquent rhetoric was finished the Greek
hero begged permission to present his clerkly secre-
-tary. Mr Roque was presented accordingly and
after saluting his Majesty inform him that his
belle-mére desired him to make her best compliments.
Feb. 2nd Sunday
Mr Marsh dined with the diplomatic corp at
the ministry - the dinner being in honor of Mr Solvyns.
As usual here there was much blundering about places - but
Pranzo dei 2 Febbrajo 1862
Lista dei piatti
Vini
Sautern
Bourdeaux Lafitte
Hochheimer
Madera secco
Hères
Champagne
Lacrima Cristi
Ostriche di Ostenda
Cesta di cervo al consommé.
Prosciutto di Jorck, e composta alla parigina.
Ortolani in cassa alla diplomatica.
Salmone con salsa di crevettes.
Filetto di bove guernito alla montebella
Suprème di pollo all'Juperatrice, con tartufi.
Pasticcio di Strasburgo con gelatina in bellevue.
Punch alla romana.
Piselli di Napoli all'inglese e carciofi guerniti.
Faggiani di Boemia e beccaccie allo spiedo.
Insalata alla Russa, montata.
Gâteau alla gentile al mandarina.
Gelati a tre gusti
Dessert--Caffè e Liquori
the dinner was otherwise agreeable. Carrie went to the Ben-
edettis and enjoyed it much.
Monday, Feb. 3d.
I held a solemn council with Mme de Lima this
morning as to the duties of the other diplomatic ladies with
regard to Madame Benedetti. She is much better informed
than I am as to the facts and she declares that difficulty
is incurable. As to our own course she says we shall do
Mad. Benedetti no good by abstaining from giving little enter-
tainments, that such a course would only set the whole
society of Turin against us if it were once suspected to be
a
mode of espousing Mad. B-s cause - and she thinks the
Benedettis entirely in the wrong - that, on the contrary, we
can only do as if nothing had happened, being careful to say
nothing ourself ourselves, nor to allow others to discuss the
subject at our réunions. Of the wisdom of this last suggestion
there can be no doubt and in the first she may be right also.
This evening I went to the ministerial ball which was really
very brilliant - the duchess, the Prince Carignan etc being
present and a large portion of the Turinese aristocracy
as well as the more plebeian deputies etc. A mingling
of elements must be the inevitable result if the present
order of things lasts. Baron Ricasoli was most amiable
as was also Madame Peruzzi who received with him.
Being among the first I had an opportunity for a few
words with Ricasoli, and hope it may be the beginning of a
more familiar acquaintance. Mr Marsh had considerable
talk with Prince Carignan and he expressed the warmest
personal interest in the success of our Northern arms
The beautiful Marchesa Rorà, who received Mr Marsh
the other day in her bed-chamber when she was confined
to her bed, asked to be presented to me at at the ball. She
is indeed a most lovely creature though she can scarcely
be less than forty. She is said to be of Spanish extraction.
in the reestablishment of the Union and the final downfall of
Slavery. It is a pity an American diplomatist cannot write such things
to his government, but the certainty of seeing them in the Herald,
if he did, deters every man who would not deprive himself of all
confidence on the part of the government to which he is accreditted.
Tuesday Feb 4th
Did nothing to-day in the way of [illegible]
social duties,
except that Mr M.
paid Mme Benedetti a visit, and Gaetano went to enquire when
certain ladies received. The answer brought back in one case
was: "every day from one to four - but not to-day - to-day she sleeps!"
Carrie went to pass an hour with the little Emilia de Lima
and was much amused by her & her less brother Arthur. The
oldest boy, Cesare, was engaged with his tutors - one, as C. was
told, being his 'master of religion"!
Feb. 5th Wednesday.
An overwhelmingly busy day for Mr Marsh who
had despatches etc to prepare, and who was interrupted by
visitors - business visitors, every quarter of an hour from early
morning till bed-time. My own time was spent about as much
according to my own inclination & about as profitably.
Mr Dillon sent in an impertinent note which it
required much self-control not to answer as it deserved
but we cannot afford to let any personal provocation lead
us into an open rupture with him - thus having the
disgrace of a civil war in the Legation as well as in
our unhappy country.
Thursday Feb 6th
I had a long visit today from Madame Farina
wife of the Senator. She has interested herself much in
the establishment of schools &c. and has the honor of
being the mother of the Normal Schools here, which are
already becoming important. She is a strikingly handsome
woman though she has married children. I should have
supposed her a Jewess from the peculiar type of face, but
at any rate she she [sic] is a remarkably intelligent woman.
Mr Marsh had a long talk with Prince Lubomirsky
who has just returned from Paris. He speaks in the main
well of the emperor but thinks him in a most precarious
position. One contrary wind might overthrow the vast but frail
fabric he has reared. He gives a characteristic anecdote of
him. Not long since
some of
the most distinguished of the Polish
exiles had a long interview with him. He listened to their grievan-
-ces and their plans for an hour and a half expressing now and
then a kindly
but non-committal
sentiment and when they had finished, he
said, "Mais, Monsieurs, ne me brouillez pas trop tôt avec la
Russie." In the evening we went to hear what the Opinione
calls the Profanazione of the Profeta. Borghi-Mamo
did her part well. The scenery was tolerable, but the rest
of the performance not brilliant
Sat morning Feb 8th
A thick snow-storm this morning and if I
were any where but in Turin I should not
have
expected visits,
but the appetite for them here is not seriously impaired
I am told by bad weather. - Visitors came as usual
among them the Baronne de Hockschild [Hochschild] and husband - that is
the social order here - to introduce the Galli de La Loggia officier d' -
ordinance etc - Madame de Bunsen came to bring
Madamoiselle Arbesser gouvernante to the Princesse Marguerite.
This young lady came, as she said, at the suggestion of Her Royal Highness
who
had
desired her to make my acquaintance and
had
added, according
to Madamoiselle, many kind & complimentary expressions.
Madame de Robilant [illegible]
too
graciously came again.
We also received this morning a very gratifying little token
of His Majesty's favor. Carrie went this evening
with the Baronne de Hochschild to a dance for children
at Count Menabrea's - but I could not learn in what
respect it differed from any ball.
Sunday Feb 9th
After two hours' visiting with Mrs Stanley Mr M.
went to dine with Ricasoli. The dinner was in compliment
to Kallergi [Kallergis]. Mr Marsh had Peruzzi on one hand and
held delectable discourse with him on drainage and
engineering of all sorts much to his satisfaction. He thinks Peruzzi's
project of a line of steamers from Ancona to Alexandria of the
utmost importance to Italy and expressed his earnest hope to the minister
that no opposition would prevent its being carried out.
Monday, Feb 10th
The demonstrations which have
just
burst forth all
on over Italy in favor of an United Italy
kingdom
under V.E. with Rome
for the capital, and which were intended simply to give
the lie to the late assertions of the Holy Father that his
children were all on his side as to his Temporal power,
have caused much regret even to many friends of the
good cause - I do not precisely make out on what
grounds. It is as hard for me to see why a people tired of
of being priest-ridden should not say so, as it is to understand
why a nation in arms in the cause of Freedom should not
dare to lift her sacred banner. Let those who stand as watchmen in
both cases look to it that they do not bid the people be silent when
it is rather the hour for the sound of the trumpet and for mighty shoutings.
- Miss Coolidge of Boston spent a half hour with me on her way,
with other friends, to Florence. We have just learned that a young
officer introduced to us by Mrs Stanley, a Captain Oliviere, is a great
rouge rogue. I am sorry for this as we particularly liked
our "bould dragoon', but the evidence against him is irrisis-
-tible. Among other feats characteristic of the chevalier d'industrie
he has sececeeded [succeeded] by means of forged papers in marrying
under a false name
a young
girl of Nice whom he deserted at once. It is unaccountable
that he should be allowed to retain his place in the army and even
be invited to the ministerial balls, but it is said that his thorough
exposure is imminent. -
Feb 11th Our first visitor this morning was the identical
bould dragoon mentioned yesterday, and he brought a note,
from the lady who had informed us of the charges against
him, saying there was reason to believe that these charges
referred to another person of the same name from Calabria.
This Capitano solemnly declares he was never in Nice in his
life. I trust he may turn out an honorable man after all.
The famous Kossuth came with his son to see us this
morning. He is still a noble-looking man, but [illegible] seems worn
and sad. He stays but a day or two in Turin. General Haug, our old
acquaintance in America in 47. as Capt. Haug of the Austrian
army, spent 2 hours with me this morning - [Image] I should have
mentioned his most unexpected appearance on Saturday. We had
some reason to believe he had been shot for treason by the Austrians
in '49, and certainly had not thought to see him again. I was L not
a little surprised on his visit saturday that he made no enquiries
for American friends not even for those who were members of our family
when he was in Washington, but I supposed it was because visitors came
in before he had finished telling his own story. To-day however it was
the same thing, not the slightest allusion to the young ladies for whom
he used to profess such unbounded admiration - nor to any of the
young men with whom he was so intimate. At last, by way of experiment
I said, when he spoke of my having so many visitors, that I really
did miss my sister who used to be with me always on such occasions
in Washington. 'You want some one to support you then among so
many strangers' was his reply - and he immediately turned the conversation
He professes to have a wife, two children and large possessions in Sleswick [Schleswig]
and really looks as if he were in easy circumstances. At the same time
he says he has heard nothing Capt. Von Schädthe since he left America,
an odd circumstance since the latter is always in Sleswick, and in
a country hardly larger than a handkerchief it is very difficult to see
how he could have avoided him if his story of the marriage etc is true.
On the whole, though he never inspired us with much confidence
in America, he seems to me even more doubtful now. He
says he fought with Garibaldi in the siege of Rome in '49
went to Constantinople afterwards - that it was an uncle of his who
was shot - etc. - in short a very romantic story if one were sure
of its truth. This evening we went to a most brilliant
ball given by the Marchesa Doria. All the noble beauty and
bravery of Turin were there and if it had been less crowded it would
have been magnificent. The toilettes were generally exquisite.
The French Ministiro and family were not there of course.
Mr Marsh dined at the Prussian Ministers where
Baron Hockschildt [Hochschild] gave them some charming music
Wednesday 12th Feb.
I should have liked rest to-day after the ball but
we had visitors all the morning. In the evening we were quiet.
Thursday 13th
Went this evening to the Benedettis, a pleasant
dance but not so many ladies as the last time. Madame
B. is above praise as a kindly & graceful hostess.
I had a good deal of talk with several distinguished persons
among them Prince Lubomirsky & Count Arese. The
Prince is plain & unpretending in manner and easy &
agreeable in conversation. Count Arese is an uncommon
man certainly, but he did not inspire me with confidence
I should take him for a person not in the habit of regarding
subjects from any high moral point of view, and in politics,
I fancy he is aristocratic enough to please the straitest of
that persuasion. A little circumstance which occurred
while we were talking together threw light, or seemed to me
to throw light on the temperament of man I was studying. Some
person in the crowd about us stepped on the Count's foot -
possibly on his corn. The offender turned instantly and
begged an imploring pardon. The Count bowed placidly,
but as the culprit turned away, his victim sent after him
such a scorching glance of wrath as I have never
seen from any human eye before. It passed as quick as
lightning from the cloud and his calm bland smile was on
me as before, but I could not get over that look. I felt
a strange constraint during the rest of our talk and was not sorry
when
we
were interrupted.
A very nice story is told to-day. It is said that Bombino
sent 8000 francs for the relief of the sufferers at Torre del Greco, that
The beautiful Countess Rignon was presented to me to-night
and the young Countess Pollon - scarcely less lovely. Count
Arese says to Mr Marsh "How can any man
who has been in America
call these women
beautiful? who h
that poor creatures refused to receive it on the ground that they
would not take it from their cruel oppressor. As soon as this fact was
known a lawyer from the neighborhood of Milan immediately sent
from his own purse to the inhabitants of Torre del Greco the sum
they had refused from the tyrant. The San Vitales have just
sent their card - they are the grandchildren of Marie Therese and
spoken
of
with great praise.
Friday Feb 14th
I should have mentioned a charming visit
yesterday from the Marchesa Cusani, whose conversation
about her domestic relations struck me singularly on our
first interview. She is a most frank unaffected creature
dignified & graceful in manner and of a most charitable nature.
In all things she seems the reverse of what is generally understood
to characterize the woman of the world. She alluded indirectly
to the difficulty about M. Benedetti, and said though the state
of her husband's health did not allow her to be in society,
she had still wished to do her part to show that the Piedmontese
ladies were not so inhospitable, and that accordingly she had
left her card for the wife of the French Minister. Unluckily
for poor Mme Bendetti - whom the Piedmontese fates
at least are against for the time being - the card had
[illegible] had not been returned.
Had this happened to a less charitable woman than the
Marchesa all Turin would have been informed of the
unpardonable offense on the part of Mme Benedetti.
As it is I hope I may have set all right by mentioning
the circumstance to Mme Benedetti who had not only not
received her card but had never heard her name
Mrs Stanley & Mrs Codrington came in this morning to hold a
a counsel at my request as to the best way to arrange my rooms
for a little dancing on occasion of my evening receptions. I asked
Mrs S. why she was not at the Doria Ball. "I was too much vexed
with the Pomposa," she replied. "Her treatment of Mme Benedetti
at the Countess Ménabréa's was not becoming a lady, - she
said to the Baroness Hockschild who was sitting by M. Benedetti,
'Don't fail me at my ball, as I especially wish all foreign
ladies who have chosen to be properly presented to me to be
present." Had I heard this and known it to be true before
that ball I certainly would not have gone, & cannot see
- if it is True - how Mad. Hockschild could have been seen
there.
Feb 15th
The Marchesa Doria was again
with me early, and I liked her much better
than usual. She cannot, I think, have said just what
she is reported to have said at the Menabreas. She
is much excited about this foolish affair and makes
it rather a patriotic than a personal question, but at
the same time declares she is sorry for Madame Benedetti.
I turned the conversation as soon as possible to more
agreeable subjects - and she told me much of her early
life, her father, her mother, the distinguished men
such as Cousin & Cuvier, & Humbolt [Humboldt] etc who used to
frequent their salon. Then she spoke of the empty young
men by whom she was now surrounded, and added - 'but a woman
without husband or brother to sustain
her
is inevitably put down as pretentious
& ridiculous if she ventures to show that she has tastes and aspirations
above the ordinary low, flat surface of society, so all that my father
labored to teach me is valueless except to me, my mother & my sisters.'
Her ancient Excellence La Marchesa Spinola honored me
with a visit this morning. She is a character, certainly.
The beautiful Comtesse Rignon née Perron delighted me
by telling me that she was the great-grand-daughter of
General La Fayette, that her grandmother, the daughter
of the General was still living in good health and deeply
interested in every thing that concerns America. The
Comte and Comtesse Pollon seem also very nice persons. In
fact of my thirty morning guests there was scarce one who
would not be noticed in America for as remarkable for
grace and dignity of manner and nice social tact. I was
vexed by the contrast a country-woman of mine presented,
who, when I expressed a hope that she liked Turin, replied
with a pert, brusque air, "No I dont - I dont like it a bit! I
cant bear it!" I am glad to be able to add that she was a
Secesh [Secessionist]. While I was in the full tide of successful re-
-ception Mr Marsh was exploring the principle library of the
city with Baron Tecco. He found many curious old books
and manuscripts and was surprised to see a larger number
of persons reading or examining books than he had ever met at
the Astor Library at New York. Among these inquirers
was a Venitian
Veronese,
Count Miniscalchi who was presented
to Mr Marsh. He is preparing a Syro-Chaldaic grammar
N. Testament
and was in distress at not being able to procure a gram-
-mar of the Chaldee language made by the American
Missionaries. When Mr Marsh told him that he had it
here and that it was at his service he was quite over-
-joyed. The Baron returned home with Mr Marsh, and the
latter happening to speak of the brother of Bajazet, long
held in captivity by the Pope, the Baron said he had
himself picked up in Spain a most curious medal
commemorating that fact, and promises to send the medal
for examination.
Sunday Feb. 16.
Today we neither made nor received visits,
and Mr Marsh found time for church, and for reading
to me one of good old Tom Fuller's sermons besides.
It seemed a little like a Sunday in our once quiet
New England.
Monday 17th Feb.
We went to the Ministerial ball
to take poor Miss Roberts rather than for any other reason. It
was agreeable to me as my acquaintances spoiled me as usual
by kind attentions. If my health however continues to improve
for another six months as it has done during the last
I shall cease to have any claim to all these egards
and must come down to the level of mere ordinary beef-
eating mortals for whom nobody cares. The angular
wiry premier expressed himself grateful for the oppor-
tunity to serrer ma main, and I was more than
ever struck with the resemblance, physical, mental
& moral, between him and our heroic Vermont
Puritan, Mr Worcester. Carutti is a noble fellow
too. The Duchess & suite, Prince Carignan etc were
there - but few of the codini. Sella, the great chemist, was
presented to me.
Baron Tecco brought in to-day the medal mentioned before.
It is three inches in diameter, apparently of solid gold, with a
head of Christ on one side and [an] inscription on the
other which states this head to be the facsimile of one
cut in an emerald which, after having long been in the
possession of the Grand Turk, was finally sent to His Holiness
as a consideration for his being jailor to the briliant
but unfortunate Zezim.
The late attempt on the life of La Vallette [Valette] in
Rome, though little talked of in cautious circles, seems
likely to lead to some results.
Tuesday 18th Feb
Haug, General!, spent two hours with
Mr Marsh greatly to the hindrance of his work, but not a
little to the excitement of his curiosity about this riddle of a
man. Strange enough are the tales he tells of himself, of
his extensive travels, his discoveries, his collections, his intimacy
with Ricasoli and other eminent men of all creed & parties
and nations. We must find out whether his air aventuriere
does him injustice or not. - Speaking of Lord Hubert de Burgh
to-day Mr Marsh says, 'he is a man of remarkably small
stature considering he is six hundred years old." I asked
for an explanation and was asked in turn if I did not
remember he was Chief Justice in the time of King John.
I must ask his lordship the next time I see him if he still
remembers the events of his youth. To-day I neither went
out, nor was disturbed at home. My friends wonder I can get
on so a whole day & evening without un peu de Distraction,
as they call. I threaten
Mr M. with
telling them that I find my husband
distracting enough without looking for causes of that nature away
from home.
Wednesday Feb 19th
Saw only my quiet excellent friend Mrs Tottenham this morning
She is an admirable specimen of aristocratic breeding united
with good sense and the heart of a Christian. It is remarkable
to find an English family so closely allied to nobility possessing so
much genuine liberality as one finds in this (the Tottenham) family
This evening we went to a ball at the de Limas - very grand -
there being nothing there but the purest codini blood, except
a few plebeians by birth but now in high positions under
the government. The dresses were beautiful, the hostess
lovely and amiable, and every body was as happy as is consistent
with crowded dancing, and the discussion of balls, masquerades,
operas etc, the only choice of employment allowed on such
occasions. The great news of the evening was the half smothered
announcement that Madame Benedetti & the Marchesa Doria
had been presented to each other. Who was the master spirit
powerful
enough
to bring about such a consummation, or by what
means it was effected was not clearly explained, but time
will show. So the hatchet be buried in good faith it matters
little for the rest.
Thursday Feb 20th
The Barber of Seville took us to
the Theatre Royal took this evening in spite of great
fatigue. It was admirably given but [both] the music and the
action. Borghi-Mamo was charming and the audience
were in the best possible humor. Mr Benedetti came
twice to our box - once to bring his daughter who promises
to be as lovely as her mother. Mr Benedetti spoke with
something very like bitterness of the peculiarities of Turinese
society and declared it impossible for foreigners to have
any relations with them except of the most formal
kind. I was sorry he should have spoken with
so much freedom as a Piedmontese officer was with
us at the same and evidently did not relish the
criticisms. It seems strange that a man so worldly-wise
as the French Minister should not perceive that this is
not precisely the way to establish friendly relations with
a proud and sensitive race. Had he been an Englishman
he would not have surprised me, but I looked for more
dexterity and flexibility from him. I saw, for the first
time this winter in a public place, the Countess Ghiseliere, this
evening. Though she was always sitting the same marvellous grace
marked every turn of her head & every gesture. A gentleman
said to me very significantly "do you know her husband?" I
answered in the negative. "An old man with white hair & beard."
I asked no questions & no more was said. - A painful
rumor is in circulation about the death of
one of
the Palasrem,
which took place last week. He was at a masquerade at
the Scribe, where, after taking a glass of iced sherbet he
felt himself suddenly ill. Returning [illegible] home at once, a doctor
was called, but while the physician was examining his pulse
and seemed puzzled by the symptoms, the Marquise said, "Oh
bestia che siete, lasciate mi, e fate venire un preta!"
He died at four in the morning. There is the more room
to suspect foul play as these mask balls seem to be chosen
as favorable occasions for deeds devillish devilish.
Another strange tale has been told me to-day by way of defence
of the Marchesa Doria whose intimacy with young officers
begins to excite more than whispers among the enemy. It
is said she has been privately married to one of them and
that the other officers about her are mutual friends of herself
& husband. Of course it is a mesalliance and kept secret
out of respect to her rank. Quien sabe!
Friday, 21st Feb.
Mr Marsh had a long and very free talk with
Baron Ricasoli this morning. A new & desperate effort is making
to break him down. He explained his policy to Mr Marsh with
that manly directness that so strongly characterizes him. "We
must have Rome & Venise [Venice]," he says, "but we are not yet
ready to take either by force." If France withdraws from Rome
that question is settled but as to Venice we are not yet strong
enough to take it from Austria without the help of France -
and to take with her help reduces us to dependency upon her.
Give us a little more time and we can do it for ourselves."
Mr Marsh asked him distinctly what he understood by "Libera
Chiesa in Libero Stato!" He replied, "The entire freedom of
all creeds, with no interference
on the part
of the Government except
to protect all in their civil rights." In a word he means
just what we have with us.
Saturday 22nd Feb
Gen. Haug made us another long visit
this morning & brought many curious & valable [valuable] medals
& other objects of interest recently collected by him.
Among them a sword of modern workmanship but in
in [sic] imitation of an old Byzantine weapon. It is very
admirable and to be presented to Garibaldi when he
enters Venice or Rome. The Count & Countess Miniscalchi
Hotel Feder
Turin
Dear Sir
Will You do me the favour
to hand these ancient coins
to Mrs Marsh. An old Italian
soldier begs of her to accept
them as the tribute of a grate-
full memory.
"Do'nt fight against Italy"
that Lady said to me years ago.
The enclosed pamphlet tells You,
that my services have been
much too highly appreciated -
yet I am thankfull to General
Roselli, that he acknowledges
the little I did, with so much
kindness.
I would wish to go
to the court ball to morrow
from the vicinity of Verona were my first visitors to-day. The Count
is very learned & the Countess very intelligent, and sympathizing with
her husband's tastes and labors. She is a Venetian, beautiful
and queenly. She says they live almost entirely in the country
partly because the Count can best work there & partly to
keep out of the way of the intolerable petty annoyances to
which they are subjected in the towns under the Austrian rule.
The color came with a rush to her cheek when she spoke of
Venice and her hopes for it. Among new visitors were
the Marquis Boÿl and the Countesses Castelmagno & Radicati
but [both] intelligent women and the first pretty. The great
topic of conversation among some of the ladies was the Fancy
Ball to be given on Friday by the Duchess de la Force at
the Hotel Feder. All Turin seems in a stir about it, and a grand
Consulta was held this afternoon at the Marchesa Doria's.
Sunday Feb. 23d
A lovely bright soft day worthy the April
of the poets. The sun was almost sorching and the difference
between the air without & within-doors was so great as
to cause almost a chill when we came in from a
drive.
Monday Feb. 24th
Another grand court-ball this evening to which
I did not go of course. It was, Mr Marsh says, very fine
and not crowded, as the armory was thrown open. This
time Madame Benedetti was treated as her position and her merits
deserve - she was in her place in the danse d'honneur, and
better still, the king himself, taking advantage of a pause in
the dance, approached her partner, Gen. d'Angrogna, and
evening. A friend of mine,
who went to enquire about
the invitation thikets [tickets], informs
me that the list for private
invitations has been closed, and
that to morrow morning
up to ten o'clock applications
of the Legations would be atten-
ded.
If my services as an
acting Consul for the U.S.
entitle me to such a favor,
I leave it to Your judgement -
anyhow I would not like to
give You any trouble.
My feruion and passeport
is herewith enclosed.
Yours very respectfully
23. February 62
Dear Sir
Yours truly
Haug
His Excellency the
U.S. plenipotentiary
Minister
G. P. Marsh
Esquire
requested him to present the lady to him. Madame B. was
taken by surprise, knowing that such a proceeding on the part
of the present king was quite unprecedented, but she performed her
part very gracefully. After two or three minutes conversation
the dancing recommenced, the king bowed and Gen d'Angrogno [d'Angrogna] whirled
away his partner. This was right royally done by the 're
galantuomo, and shows that his sense of justice is strong enough
even to overcome his natural shrinking from certain social
observances. What his [illegible]
gentle
Turinese subjects will say to this
remains to be heard. I can fancy that even Diplomacy itself
may feel a twinge in one of its fair members - but a
person must
be
very egoiste to envy so unassuming, sweet
a creature as Madame Benedetti, especially after all the
annoying things that have happened to her here.
Tuesday 25
The D'Addas gave a beautiful ball
to-night, but too crowded. To me it was more agreeable
than such places usually are. It was not a mere Piedmontese
pack, but many persons connected with the government, and
many from other towns in Italy were there. Count Nigra
presented to me his sister-in-law, the beautiful Madame
Nigra, who, common fame says, might claim to stand in
a still closer relation to him. She is one of the prettiest
women in Turin, and
has an
of excellent character so far
as
I know.
We also made the acquaintance of the Comtesse Alfieri,
the neice of Cavour - a name that still is always followed
here by a sigh - and found her much as she had been
discribed to us, plain & ungraceful, but not positively
repulsive. Her diamonds were blinding. The Countess St Germain
was, as she always is, superb. She would become a throne.
Our home news from the Burnside expedition cheers our hearts this
week - but many others must ache even while they rejoice.
Wednesday 26th
Gen. Haug - who really seems more and more
genuine the more we see of him, was with me to-day
when Baron Plana came in to pay me a visit. The conversation
turned on Italian politics and the old man eloquent
was unable to let the occasion slip without giving the
Holy Father a touch en passant. He says however
that though the pope is no believer in Christianity, he
still thinks he should be left in his place at Rome
as head of the Church. As to Temporal power he should
have none, but even with only the power that necessarily
belongs to his spiritual office, he thinks the king of Italy
could not live in the same city with him, and he there
therefore argues against the talked-of change of seat of
Government. "Let the Pope then go to Jerusalem!" said
Haug. "Mais, il ne croirait pas meme à Jerusalem!" -
But he wouldn't believe even in Jerusalem! said the
Baron, with a chuckle, and when he saw we all
relished his humor, he shook my hand with the delight
of a child. He was amused with some of Gen. Haug's
papal statistics, among which were these. 'There have
been from two hundred & fifty to three hundred popes - out
of these, 65 have been canonized, and out of these
sixty five, sixty two lived before the temporal power
of the popes was established. If then, sixty five popes
without temporal power could furnish sixty two saints,
and two hundred with it, could only furnish three, the
logical deduction was that temporal power was not conducive
I omitted to give Baron Plana's statement of the
experience of a trustworthy friend of his. "I have lived at
Rome", said this gentleman, "through a long lifetime. I have
known intimately 86 Cardinals and I know positively that
out of these 86 only 4 believed in the truth of Christianity.'
to the sanctity of popes!' Our venerable friend said he came
to see us a few days ago, "but," added he with a mischievous twinkle
of the eye, "I forgot you were superstitious Protestants and
came on Sunday - I did not see you of course." I assured
him I did not think it would be a sin to see him even of a
sunday - and besides we might do something towards bringing
him to the truth! He left us, full of life and cheerfulness.
Madame Monnet came in before he went away. She is a rare
women [sic] intellectually, and impresses me agreeably every way.
The rumor now is that Ricasoli is firm in his seat
again. Immense preparations are making in Turin for
the reception of the king next week. Most of the Diplomatic
corps are going there. While Mr Marsh was making
a visit to Madame de Lima this morning a gentleman pres-
-ent related the following anecdote: He was appointed one
of a committee to go out with several ladies on a begging tour
for the benefit of the poor. It was settled that they should go
to every boarding house - public and private, from the largest
hotel to the most modest private lodginghouse and carry
their plate from guest to guest at the hour when they were
at table. The gentleman says "We went to some startling
looking places and encountered some rough looking
specimens of humanity. The ladies however who
carried around the plate went through with what they
had undertaken without flinching. At last one of them
approached what we should call a teamster in New England
- a very coarse looking man in a blouse and with a pipe
in his mouth. She stated her object and extended her
A friend has just pronounced the anecdote of the quêteuse
to be a Joe Miller, to be found in some of the memoirs of
Louis fourteenth. It is difficult to catch Mr Marsh in
this way and I shall be rather amused if for once in his life
he has failed to recognize stolen property.
plate. The man took his pipe from his mouth, looked at
her fiercely and rudely and then said with a harsh voice
as he handed her a five franc piece. "Pour vos beaux
yeux la quêteuse!" "Merci" said the lady, taking the money,
and adding as quick as thought "et maintenant pour
les pauvres," and she extended the plate again.
Without a moments hesitation the man took from
his pocket a napoleon and made this second offering
with a better grace than the first.
Thursday 27th Feb.
I have just had a long visit from Mlle
Arbesser, the gouvernante of the Princess Margaret of Genoa.
She spoke with much apparent freedom of her position
here - is very happy with the Duchess, of whose mental and
moral qualities she speal praises she most warmly - and
also with her little pupil now nine or ten years old, but
she complains bitterly of the etiquette. Among other curious
facts with regard to royal training in this ninteenth century she
states. - The Princess Maria Pia - and the same was true of
the princess Margaret when she first took charge of her - is
never allowed to be left one moment to herself - not even
to say her prayers. When she is dressing one of her gouvernantes
must be present, with the dressing maid and the princess
must on no account address a word to this maid. If she
wishes to communicate with her in any way it must be through
the lady in attendance. If, by any chance this lady is called
away, she must on no account leave the princess till another
gouvernante has already entered the room. She is allowed no
companionship with persons of her own age not even in the presence
of oth all those watchful eyes, because she has no equals in rank.
She prays aloud for a quarter of an hour morning and evening
Aves & Paternosters etc etc, but she is not allowed to pray for
her father! Mlle Arbesser says she has remonstrated with
the Duchess on the subject of the Princess Margaret, that the
Duchess says it was to bring about a different state of things
that she sent for a governess who had not been educated at
the Sacre Coeur etc. and she has allowed the Princess to
be alone sometimes, to be dressed by her maid with
out
a third
person present, and to speak to her on any subject connected
with her dressing & dress. She has also obtained for her
the privilege of having 2 or three girls of her own age
to play with
her,
and the little creature is enraptured with
this new pleasure which she has once a week. The
prince - her little brother - has a harder fate still. He has
four governors - one of whom must always be with him, besides
two gens d'armes, who constantly attend him as servants
and guard. Mlle says that a few days after she entered
upon her duties as governess it was proposed that she
and General della Rovere - one of the governors - should
drive out with the prince and princess. The governess
handed
made
the princess
get
into the carriage first, as she was
some years older than the prince without taking into account
her sex. General della Rovere exclaimed in astonishment
"Mais Mademoiselle que faites vous! it is for the prince to
enter first, and Madame Margaret, already quite a tall
girl was obliged to lea get out of the carriage and allow her
five year old brother to take precedence, and the place
of honor. On her return, Mille Arbesser stated the case to
the Duchess, who declared that the princess from her sex and
age was entitled to precedence on such occasions. General della
Rovere [illegible] would not give up the question. Momentous parch-
-ments were consulted and the Duchess was decided down
She cut the knot however by giving orders that the prince
and princess should not hereafter go in the same carriage.
Mlle Arbesser also complains of the intense bigotry that
has been instilled into these children especially into the little
prince. She says she was showing him the portraits of
reigning sovereigns the other day and as she turned over
to the Queen of England, the little fellow said "Ah voilà
un mauvaise femme! Je ne veux pas la regarder!" "Why
do you think her a bad woman?" said the governess. "She is
a Protestant." said the boy, "and the abbé says she and
all Protestants are bad." Mlle Arbesser says she is a
Catholic herself, but she was shocked at such teachings
and reported the circumstance to the Duchess who immediately
called the prince and told him that he must not believe
such things of Protestants, whoever might tell him so -
that Protestants were mistaken about some things but that
they were good people and no good Christian could hate them.
The poor Duchess however has no voice in the education of this
boy except her own personal influence over him. Another odd
piece of etiquette was told me by this lady. She says: Once
when she was driving with the little Princess Marguret
they met a royal carriage containing the Princess Maria
Pia, and her governess. Mlle Arbesser rose in her carriage
but the little princess Marguret cried out frantically:
"Mais Mademoiselle, saluez aussi avec la portière, saluez
avec la portière" The poor governess had no idea of the
meaning of this order and before it could be explained
it was too late to obey. She was told afterwards what she should
have done. The window of the carriage should have been lowered
if it were up - should have been raised
and lowered
if it were down.
And this, be it known to posterity is the royal salute of
the 'portière!' I scarcely know at which most to wonder -
at the things related, or at the imprudence of the narrator
who had never talked half an hour with me before. I should
be glad of the opportunity of learning from such confidences, if the
old proverb about turning cat and pan were not
always
present to me
on such occasions.
Friday Feb. 28.
I was not well enough to see visitors today and
so missed Madame de Bunsen whom I wished to see.
Mr Marsh paid a few visits and persists in liking the Pied-
-montese ladies notwithstanding the general complaint of
foreigners.
Saturday Marsh 1st
I was obliged to give up my weekely recep-
-tion today, feeling quite unable to dress and sit up so long.
Mr Marsh however saw two gentlemen from Terre-Haute,
acquaintances of Alexander, and though I missed them my-
-self I hope to see them at dinner on Monday.
Sunday March 2nd
The Ministry is announced as dissolved.
We are pained to learn this, and our fears for Italy will
be very great if Ratazzi is really placed at the helm of state
in such threatening times as these. The news from Rome
for some days has been of a character to excite uneasiness -
and who shall wonder if this long suffering, patient people
explode at last. The fall of the Ministry will not be likely
to have a soothing effect upon that people. The
masking this afternoon was gay but in every respect quiet and
orderly. Every piazza and every street was filled to overflowing,
but there were no noisy brawls, no signs of drunkenness.
There was a Coronation of Petrarch in the Piazza Castello,
but we did not see it. The day was a balmy as May, and
we had no fires in the house except at morning and evening.
Monday March 3rd
Mr Cook and Mr Freeman dined with us
today, and we were glad to find Americans so all right
in their general impressions from what they had seen
abroad, but more especially in their home politics. They are
men of a class very difficult to be met with in Europe -
men evidently born in humble life, but by no means lacking in
refinment, with much knowledge of the world and an amount
of reading almost never found in the Old World except among
mere scholars. We did not go out to look after the Carnival
which is still in full tide today.
Tuesday Marsh 4th
Mr Marsh went quite early this morning
to see that great power of his age - Garibaldi, who came to
town yesterday. It is said Ricasoli sent for him as soon as he
had resigned, in order to talk over the affairs of Italy with
him and to urge upon him the necessity of restraining
his partisans from committing any imprudence. Mr Marsh
- who I fancy had made up his mind to see a little of the
dramatic - was struck by the quiet, genuine dignity of this
great man. There was nothing of over self-consciousness about him
He was in the well known red shirt with a becoming cap, and
a military cloak over his shoulders. He dismissed the crowd
about him in order to talk with Mr Marsh alone. He ex-
-pressed the deepest interest in the American struggle and
declared that nothing but the reasons already given could have
prevented him from taking part in it. Mr Marsh stayed with him but
a short time as there were so many eagerly waiting their turn. He
leaves town at once, but as he thinks of spending a part of the summer in
Genoa I hope we may see more of him. The Carnival was
very lively all day - the more so from its being lawful to throw
coriandoli - the confetti of Rome - in most of the principle
streets. There was nothing corresponding to the moccoli of Rome in
the evening, but at ten o'clock an imposing procession headed by
two stupendous cars passed through the great streets and squares.
In one of these cars, elevated to a very great hight [sic] stood a giant
figure called the carnevale. He was surrounded by fantastic
figures, impish and fiendish, that would defy all description,
all and the whole was illuminated by countless colored lights.
The other car, scarcely less brilliant contained the musicians.
- then came a processions of several hundred persons, all
carrying chinese lanterns. About midnight they reached the
Piazza Castello, where an immense pile was erected. The pleth-
-oric carnevale was lifted to the top of this pile, - a multitude
of fireworks were played off, and in a few minutes, the whole
mass was enveloped in flames, the tens of thousands of spec-
-tators raising shout upon shout as the monster was con-
-sumed. The masked balls, etc were kept up till morning,
but there were no disturbances of any kind.
Wednesday March 5
Every thing quiet today except a murmur of
dissatisfaction at the new Ministry. It has not been well
received in most of the large cities of Italy. But this people
have shown such a noble spirit thus far that we
have good reason to hope they will wait with patience before
condemning the new Ministry. As to Ricasoli, there is no danger
that any personal consideration will make him forget for a mo-
-ment the best interests of his country. He will support the
ministry as far as he can do so conscienciously.
Thursday March 6th -
Though I have made it a rule to say little
in this journal of American affairs, the news for a day or two past
calls at least for an expression of thanksgiving. Italian matters
are full of uncertainty. One says the overthrow of Ricasoli is a
mere palace intrigue, at the bottom of which is the witch of
Montcaliere, others say she has been the tool in the hands
of the Emperor, others still that it has been brought about
by the settled conviction of the liberal party that more active
measures must be adopted and that the king has acted
calmly on the advice of the wisest counsellers within his
reach. Alas! if the truth is so difficult to find even here with
plenty of persons ready to swear that they know positively all
about it, through their own eyes and ears, how does posterity
ever find out the real facts in such cases.
Friday March 7th
Today the new Ministry was expected to announce its
programme and the street in front of the Chambers was quite thronged.
Every thing continued quiet. Ratazzi's address was very good but
dealt only in generals. Ricasoli made a short speech which was received
with much applause. Mrs Tottenham gave me a curious
anecdote of a Piedmontese family in Turin. San Margarita
I think is the name. It seems they are codinissimi, and have
always held themselves somewhat aloof even from most of the P.
nobility. Since the day when royalty itself distributed the loges boxes
at the Teatro Regio they have ceased to be seen at the theatre. For
years they have lived in almost more than monkish seclusion.
This winter a son of the house married - the lady insisted on
going to the Royal Theatre - the family were scandalized - the willful
bride had her way, and as she carried her husband in triumph through
the streets of Turin at nine o'clock in the evening the happy man
exclaimed
burst into exclamations
at the sight of the lighted streets which he beheld for
the first time in his life! I have just asked a native of
Lombardy who has long lived in Turin if such a story could
be true. He says "Of course I cannot vouch for this case,
but I assure you it may very well be true.
Madame de Boÿl, who has just returned from Paris, gives
an amusing account of a conversation of hers with an old friend
of the Fauburg St Germain. "How do you manage about churchgoing
said the curious Parisian. "Why I go either in my carriage or on foot
as I like" answered the Marquise Boÿl. "But," says her friend, "how do you
get into the church?" Further explanations followed from which it appeared that
the enlightened Frenchwoman believed that all the churches in Italy had been
closed by the Garibaldians, and that no priest every dared appear in the streets.